Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv

 Robert 5 points

Good question, i am in the same situation. Hope for replies. I measured 8,5mm diameter and inner diamteter 4mm for the back ball bearing. Depth about 4mm. But i cannot find anything at HK. Which glue would you use for the bearings? Loctite 648 would be nice, but even as expensive as a new Motor. Best wishes

 Robert 2 points

A little overkill but it would work.

 Jessy 122 points

result with full 3cell 2200 35A and FMS ESC 35A. WOT= 33A , 377Watt. Very Good Motor.

 Jessy 122 points

With 10x6 Folding Prop

 Barlog 12 points

I would not called it "sealed" but yes, bearings are covered by standard sheet metal ring as usual.

 wildthawn 241 points

so there is no way to pack the bearing with greese because the sides are sealed then correct?

 Barlog 12 points

Actually there is a way, I did it two days ago. Metal rings are secured by very tiny thin circlips, one end of this circlip has suitable shape, you can push sharp needle towards this end and jemmy the circlip out. It is a little bit tricky, but it definitely can be done. This way you can open both sides of bearing, clean it properly and fill it with grease, after setting covers back to the position, just push circlip back and it should click into the groove. Good news are, that bearings and also the shaft can be removed very easily and without force, just unscrew two worm screws and get away the aluminium ring from shaft on static side of motor, then you can easily pull out rotor (magnets will hold it quite strongly, but no hammer is needed) and get out both bearings, at least I could. I did it, because one of bearings started to do very strange noises, like if something got inside of bearing, sometimes it screamed, sometimes it ran smoothly, but now it looks like it is much better.

 wildthawn 241 points

WHAT DID YOU PACK THE BEARING WITH AXLE GREASE OR VASELINE OR SOME THING LIGHTER EVEN YET???

 Barlog 12 points

I have used common vaseline, but something lighter, but still not liquid could be even better. Vaseline is little too viscous in my opinion and most of it will be pushed outside the bearing short after application, it's better for pressure lubrication of completely sealed bearings, these are only partly sealed. But still better than nothing I think :-D

 Barlog 12 points

Ou, I think it's too damn big prop for this little motor, I have tried 10x6 and 9x5 triblades, motor and also 25A ESC was hot, yes, that was triblades... I am currently using it with 8x4 GWS EP two blade and 3S lipo *15A - static trust 760 grams, tried also 9x5 GWS EP two blade on 3S *23A and 1080 grams of static thrust - this one is out of specs already, 9x5 GWS HD triblade *27A and 1098 grams. Done on Turnigy nanotech 3S 6Ah 25-50C lipo *11.2V or slightly more and Turnigy Plush 25A ESC. My amp

 Barlog 12 points

...My amp meters was not perfect for this purpose and battery not fully charged, so measured currents should be somewhat higher in real conditions.

 Barlog 12 points

These are common M3 screws, go to nearest hardware store and buy whichever ones with metric 3 mm thread, that will suit your needs. Just do not screw it too deep to motor, I am not sure, if it can collide with rotor or hit winding, but I would not try it. 2 - 3 millimeters deep is OK.

 m_ark 47 points

sounds like the motor has an internal short circuit. you could try either rewinding the motor or replacing it. (As for the esc, it's good to have one finger on the esc whilst testing suspect motors for to check for heat. If the temperature rises so much that it's uncomfortable to touch, or burns you, then something is faulty. - test the esc on a different motor before it burns itself out completely)

 Lanius 110 points

I have two of this motor, seem that it have more than 1000Kv. Mine get hot using 9x4,7 at full throttle.

 ADUC.HeliME 183 points

I agree with m_ark. There is a short in the motor when it was reversed. ESC's normally fail when they run at a too high amps, the motor had bound up and will not spin, or there is a short. Marks 'keep a finger on the esc during testing' is a good idea but also use a watt meter on any new setup. m_ark should get credit for his answer.

 mark7 173 points

m_ark will get his credit, no worries :) but, first, let's end the discussion, is this motor, at this moment usable or not? I can try one more time with smaller prop (9x6) and stronger ESC (60A) to be sure, but, also, I don't want to burn another ESC :( Wattmeter was connected when this problem occurred and the max current was always smaller than 30A, BUT with every next test current was smaller and smaller (for same % of throttle!?) The moment (last try) when the ESC burned at 70% throttle, we had measured only 16A.

 m_ark 47 points

you can test to see if the motor has an internal short by using a cheap digital multi-meter across the different sets of motor leads one pair at a time. With the meter set to 'Ohms' you should get a reading of a .2-.3 ohms (i just tested my copy of this product) - if your motor is dead (open circuit or short circuit) you'll get a different reading across the contacts, either out of range or 0.0 ohms.
you could also have a dry solder joint in the motor connectors which itself will absorb current/heat and cause your ESC to heat up unnecessarily.
my setup is a blue hobbyking 40amp running a 10x6 folding prop in tractor config and works beautifully!

 mark7 173 points

m_ark, thanks for your answers! Measured today - 0.05 ohms on all three pairs of wires. Also, I tested motor with 60A ESC (on 2200mah 3s) and no brake or strange noises from motor, everything working from 0-100% throttle! Here is what I got - on full lipo with 9x6 prop - 390W/39A and with 12.2V lipo I got 440W and 38! This can not be normal! 10x5 apc sport - 350W and 35A (on 12.1V), also strange and last prop I tried - 8x4 apc sport - 270W and 23A (on 12.1V) and very very weak pull force. Conclusion?

 m_ark 47 points

I don't understand why you say the above details are strange. The information you posted is completely normal, with an 8x4 prop you are operating the motor with a reduced the load on the motor, and thus the static thrust will be lower (smaller prop=less load=less thrust work done). It's not working as hard as it COULD even at full throttle. 30-40 amps is normal for this motor. But i'm sure you won't be operating this motor at 100% throttle 100% of the time. Sounds like the first ESC spontaneously killed itself?

 ADUC.HeliME 183 points

Hello, Google "Reverse shafting the Turnigy 2836-2350 for use on Easystar and Cloud Fly" is should be the first hit with picutres.

 Rob 1 points

Thanks ADUC, but those seem like pusher planes to me. My plane has the prop up front but I don't know how to attach the prop to the motor in this case.

 ADUC.HeliME 183 points

Hello Rob, I have had a look at the manual for the electra and it looks like the original motor is a brushed motor (two leads) where as this is a brushless motor (3 leads). Can you confirm that you are in fact wanting to use a brushless motor with and ESC? Using a brushless motor, such as this one could require a bit of modification. On a brushed motor the shaft spins and the rest of the motor is fixed. This brushless motor the shaft spins and so does the can. The can is the part with the words turnigy and 2836-1000 on it. Furthermore the stock battery that comes with the electra is 7.2 volts. This motor will require at least 12 volts to run correctly.

 Rob 1 points

Yes, I`m replacing the brushed with brushless. I`ll make sure the CG is proper before flying. I posted this question on RCGroups and one reply said ``Regardless of pusher or not if the motor has to mount in front of the fire wall you have to reverse the shaft`. Since I want to mount in front of the firewall, I think this answers my question (there seems to be more info on Goldberg Gentle Lady conversion - Electra is Gentle Lady with motor) Thanks much.

 Peter 2 points

Yes, it will. It works perfectly

 chopper50 259 points

Hi check this out for j3 piper just like yours with 1000kv [from www.link

 dhruv 103 points

Yes it does.

 Lanius 110 points

Are you sure that your model is named trastmaster 3D I don´*t find this model.

 Maurizio 19 points

SORRY Was PARKMASTER 3D

 Lanius 110 points

2836 1000kv 1300mAh 20-30C 3S ESC 30A TGS sport 10x5 provide 810 gr. stall thrust and 1073 gr. static thrustmax. current: 17A Speed: 70,3Km/h. Mixed flight time: 7,15 min. prop , drive weight 240 grams. This is OK for parkmaster. Most people use Turnigy 2217 1050kv but it needs 11x4,7 prop and 18A to have similar thrust, time flight decreases. I dont recommend 36-28 1140Kv.

 Lanius 110 points

Use ecalc prop calculator is online program and have this motor in database

 wildthawn 241 points

i think its 3 poles

 chopper50 259 points

Hi, undo the grub screws that hold the shaft in, pull the outer part of motor off, gently tap shaft down with somthing like a plastic mallet untill its flush then refit and tighten grub screws again. hope this helps [From Chris U.K.]

 Matt22 4 points

Hi Chris, I know it has noting to do with this problem, but I hav a problem with this motor : I bent the shaft a tiny bit! How can I fix it or is it better to buy a new shaft (if available) www.link

 wildthawn 241 points

use a harden drill bit for a new shaft you wont bend it it should shatter first// or you can take a screwdriver shank and make one i have even used nails to make them in a pinch

 chopper50 259 points

Matt22 look on ebay for a 4mm motor shaft from china

 Nickybomz 19 points

Hi I bought this motor and installed on my Phoenix 2000 too, but it runs quite hot. I tried a couple of different folding prop combos from HK, but they made the engine run even hotter. I found in the end I was best off using the standard prop with this motor and doing a slight mod to the front of the fuse - there are 2 air intake holes on the side where the motor is, get a couple of plastic s***ns, cut them and glue just behind the holes so that they act as air scoops - this will look cool an

 louisweb 46 points

My questions is :what is the size of the standard folding props you are using currently? and did you reverse the shaft to fit in?
Thanks again!

 Oskari Jylhä 45 points

I use 3s and 11.5 x 6. If you use 2s, you can use bigger props, and 4s you need to use smaller prop.

 solentlife 117 points

I use a 10x6 for general and a 11x5 for aerobatics on my Ultimate. The motor is extremely good and throttles nice on a 35A Red Brick ESC 2200 3S 25C Lipo

 wildthawn 241 points

solentlife what size ultimate are you running this on and whats the A.U.W. and how long of flight time do you get on the 2200mah batt

 solentlife 117 points

Its the World Models Ultimate Bipe in wood / Orafilm cover. AUW is just under 800gr. I fly for 6 mins come down and pack is still with capacity to spare. I would guess max would be about 8 - 9mins. Check out my Youtube Channel "solentlifeuk" ... you'll see it there.

 chopper50 259 points

yep i had the same problem i had to file out centre hole about 1mm all the way around small price to pay for great motor i thought[from chris]

 Lanius 110 points

The problem is that the shaft is not well placed and the shaft screw get out because dont coincide with the hole in the shaft. I turn the shaft to align properly with the screw and solve the problem.Sorry for my english.

 solentlife 117 points

Mines fine ... no problem at all.

 chopper50 259 points

yes loads of power and light i use it on a unique epp foam profile same size, with 11.1v 1800Mah 11.5.5 prop i am very pleased...Hope this helps you [from Chris]

 solentlife 117 points

It pulls my ultimate bipe vertical on a 10x6 - very happy.

 wildthawn 241 points

is your ultimate a 42 inch balsa or a epp flat foamie

 solentlife 117 points

World Models wood / film version. :
Plane Name : Ultimate EP
Code No. E251XM
Wing Span : 36 in / 910 mm
Wing Area : 440 sq in / 28.4 sq mm
Flying Weight : 27 oz/ 770 g
Fuselage Length : 38 in / 970 mm
Engine Required :

Radio Required : 4-channel radio w/4 micro servos, Outrunner Motor KM0283010 w/ Propeller Adaptor HW2340100, 20A Brushless ESC, 3 cells 11.1V 2100mAh Li-Po battery & charger

 chopper50 259 points

Hi, yes that will work i use a bigger prop 11x5.5 and 1800Mah 3s gives more speed and longer flight time and still runs cool. this is a great motor. hope this helps [From Chris]

 solentlife 117 points

Fine ... but suggest you get a higher C rated battery.

 flyhigh79 38 points

yes it will work - i used a setup like your's on my fox with 1100 grams... just take care of your battery 1800-2200mAh 25-35C would be better (esp. if you want to fly longer time with full throttle)... please rate if it helped

 ravikoth 10 points

Hi,I dont think this is a good motor for a 1500-1600g Glider, it will probably get you up in the air, but not a very convincing climb rate. The amp Draw will be in the vicinity of 25 AMPS on a 8x6 a 30 amp esc will be adequate, just ventilate it , and if that is not possible, buy one of the UBECS at HK for 4$. that will keep it safe. A better bet would be a Turnigy 3639 1100 KV on a 3cell pack that would probably draw about 28 Amps, and keep everything cool and glider & pilot Happy. All the b

 Lanius 110 points

I run this motor with 30A ESC and GWS 11x4.7 without any problem.

 solentlife 117 points

You would need a higher kv motor to get the thrust needed for such a prop / model weight combo ...
This motor is designed for a larger prop - I use it on my 3D Ultimate with a 10x6 and it's vertical performance. Give it a 8x6 and it would be all sound and no go.

 NovatoBR 63 points

Not true solentlife, I have same motor and use with a pac 8x6 slow fly E in a X5 wing plane carrying 1.2kg load and it scream and fly fast like a beast. I have measured 300w and 29A on wattmeter using a hobby wing 40A esc. Of course a larger prop would be better, but is far away from your "no go" opinion.

 Javier 9 points

Keep in mind that what i want is to move a FPV plane wich is built into a slow very floaty plane.. very like a Goldberg Elektra.. the plane is not built for speed or any hard maneover and in this case just carrying FPV gear stable and economically.. Still since the motor goes on a pod over the wings .. 9" is just 1.25cm more diameter than 8.. so i can build the motor support so the motor can be raised and try with both 8X6 and 9X6 props..

 NovatoBR 63 points

follow ravikoth tip. My plane with fpv gear, full load, have 1.2kg and I use a 8x6 prop with this motor. It works but have a slow climb rate when battery start to drain out and it is a quite fast for a fpv plane. Your plane is heavier than mine, but is slower and floats better. It would be better a high kv motor like ravikoth said and you can keep the 8x6 prop. Keep in mind when you reach the desired altitude, you will fly with a very little throttle in your glider saving a lot of battery.

 Javier 9 points

I did the first power test with a wattmetter using a 8X6 prop and in static it registered 370W!! www.link Is something wrong? 370W (33A) seems way too much .. i asume this motor uses high timming? or should i use med/low?

 NovatoBR 63 points

yeah. Sounds too much. I use med timing. This motor is rated to 300w. And for its performance, doenst look like a 1000kv. Its much more to 1200/1400kv. Anyway you may bought a different batch. Use it a little bit and feel if it is hot. Just one question: Did you use a Slow Fly prop (SF)? If you did, try just a 8x6E prop. Its not safe to use a SF prop in a fast motor. This is a powerful motor for only a 28 size. Its behaving like a 35 motor.

 Javier 9 points

Yes... i just checked and indeed its a SF propeller... they did seemed relativy flopy i have to say... so its not recomended using them in this motor? Could that explain the high drain?

 NovatoBR 63 points

That could explain the high drain. SF props are designed to use with slow rpm motors, something like a 750kv motor. Normally a 8x6 slow fly prop is rated to 8000rpm only. In that motor, with a 8x6 prop, we are talking about over 10000rpm. That's why you need to use a 8x6E prop as soon as possible, or prop can brake itself and cause serious injuries. SF props have spoon shape to archive more thrust in low rpm.

 Javier 9 points

Thanks for the info.. i just checked SF rpm limits and indeed a 8" SF has a rpm limit of just 8100rpm .. as many people reported this motor going up to 14000rpm its clear it couldnt work right. I just checked with an TGS 8X5E (dont have a 8X6E arround) and it delivered a more normal 23.8A and 280W with full 3S

 NovatoBR 63 points

Just for your info... I just tested a 3-blade 8x6 prop. I was like 80% throttle and watt meter showed 340w and over 30A.... Too much. ROFL. This is a nice motor!

 chopper50 259 points

Hi i surched the internet for ages i cant find one, HK dont do one 'pitty hey'

 Lanius 110 points

There are not, but "NTM Prop Drive 3536A Series Replacement Shaft" or other 4mm diameter shaft with 57 mm lenght can be OK, you will need to file or grind a flat spot for the shaft collar set screw

 solentlife 117 points

Instead of fiting the clip / grinding grooves - use a wheel collet ....

 Mrzipi 18 points

It is theoretically possible, the shaft is stopped by 2 grains that keeps him tied to a rotating case, while the second holds a closed collar that holds the engine package. A friend who has 2 of these engines failed because it is very hard to move the shaft, so he gave up and changed the castle of the engine.

 majik01 2678 points

The shaft can be moved - but a lot of work. Use the "Product Compare" feature and select the parameters you want/need. You can create a side by side comparison for several motors around the selections you made - including price and availability.

 solentlife 117 points

The question really is which end hasd the mount screws ? Front Shaft / prop end or back ?

 majik01 2678 points

Mount screws are the end where the wires come out from the can. This is an outrunner - you can't mount it from the spinning can - makes sense?

 chopper50 259 points

You can use these both ways just take it apart and turn the shaft around easy (from chris)

 flyhigh79 38 points

M3x4mm

 flyhigh79 38 points

mine came with 3.5mm connectors

 floydbh 94 points

mine are 3.5 too

 sklenar 127 points

Well, out of 300W there is some part that turns into heat in motor, more than 60W for sure, but guess it is more - it must pass out of motor somehow, and quickly, if You want prolonged run at full throttle. Short run will allow to just accumulate heat and cool down after, but "minutes" of full throttle reguire outstanding cooling. It is possible that You had just a bad luck and your motor has internal short. But this applies only if You have mounted the motor well, properly cooled by huge airflo

 NumnutChriS 472 points

Be sure to have sufficient airflow around it, I run mine in a RC Factory YAK with 10x4.7 and Mystery 30A ESC without problems on 25-35C & 30-40C 3S1300packs.

 Ruslan 58 points

Two holes are 16 mm apart and the other two are 19 mm apart

 sklenar 127 points

Better place backorder, because this one is outstanding and may go out of stock again and again..

 Fero_1 2 points

No, this motor is too weak for this plane. I have it in Fox Fiberglass 1.5m Glider (flying weight ca.1kg)

 Oliver 2 points

You won´t have fun with this motor in your trainer... the better choice would be this motor www.link with an APC-E 11x5,5 (1,7kg thrust and 403W at 11,1V/3s)

 Mustafa 1 points

this motor usuable 1100 mm wing span.

 Fero_1 2 points

I have this motor in FOX Fiberglass glider with 10x6 prop Graupner and 30A ESC Hobbyking BlueSeries. I thing, that this combination is very strong for Easy Glider.Attention! You can have problem with bigger diameter (28mm).

 Mustafa 1 points

Usable 30A esc for this motor, but with 3S battery use (11.1v and 1350mAh*20c=27A max.).

 bgjbrok 59 points

I use this motor in a Sanyo Limit 3s zippy-h and the Hobbyking SS Series 35-40A ESC and 10x6 Graupner Cam fould prop. Draws around 30A
Shoots of like a star.

 kedguzzi 10 points

Yes, I use this motor in a 1400 gram glider with a 9-6" cam folding prop. Accu 3S 2250 maAh. Goes like a rocket.

 __edd! 226 points

Yes it is 16/19 and it's a super motor.
Make sure you lubricate each and every ball bearing on any motor before first run.

 derfel 49 points

De nada