This genius tool makes flashing the Atmel Atmega MCU found in many ESCs or other devices using Atmega processors a walk in the park. No need to solder or create cumbersome clip on devices, simply connect the socket flashing tool to a USBasp AVR device and place the socket over the exposed Atmel MCU!
Unique and exclusive to Hobbyking this handy device will become a favorite in your DIY arsenal.
Features: High point precision. Wide range of applications. Quick and easy, no soldering required.
Specifications: Pointing accuracy : ± 0.05 mm Spring force: [ ±20%] 17.0g(0.593oz) at initial travel 40.0g(1.418oz) at 1.70mm(0.0669) recommended travel 52.0g(1.827oz) at 2.50mm(0.0984) full travel Socket : Phosphor Bronze / Gold Plated Plunger : Hardened Beryllium copper / Gold Plated Barrel : Phosphor Bronze / Gold Plated Spring : Music Wire / Gold Plated Housing : LG chem ABS-AF312 Cable length: 420mm
Requires: USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors
Suits the Following MCU: Atmel Atmega8, Atmega48, Atmega88, Atmega168, Atmega328
PRODUCT ID: 332000007
Turnigy Heat Shrink Tube 20mm Transparent (1mtr)
Combo Price: $0.52IN STOCK
USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors
thanks roger, have you tried it? i have to open 1 ecs to confirm the atmega8 before i order this tool, i run thru the comments, some just mentioned other thus not have the atmega8, anyhow thanks for the info
If you are experienced in writing software for your brand of ESC you could theoretically program an ESC to use its braking feature in an alternative means. Lets say you told it your throttle range was from 15-100%. any inputs to the ESC from 0-15% would activate the "Fast Stop" feature in a linear fashion to cause it to gradually stop vice the default config of 0% throttle "Fast Stop". However there is no existing code as Srepfler has said that will cause it to act in a specific way. With the right knowledge or perhaps bribing the right person... well anything's possible. :)
After a fair bit of research it appears that some HK ESCs can be re-programmed with code that others have already written. Looks like you just need to enable the BRAKE flag in the code and recompile and you get car brakes (and reverse too, if you want it.) These controllers are mostly software.
Thanks for your help!
Items that are in high demand are typically sold while still in backorder. There is a Que of back ordered products. If i buy 40 while it is "Out of stock" I will get my 40 before you ever see the stock return to a positive level unless of course they restock 41 items then I will get my 40 and 1 will become available. Now i'm not gonna go and buy 40 of anything but you can imagine all the people buying 1 or 2 backorder will get theirs long before those waiting for Stock ever know they were sold.
The atmega 8 standard TQPF is 7mmx7mm which this tool fit, smaller package is the MLF which is 5mmx5mm which will not work. Pls check Rapidesc database( Google search), i believe some of these 18a esc are locked, thus cannot be flashed.
You need the 10 pin one. There are 6 and 10 pin ones out there. Seems HobbyKing have replaced their 10 pin version with the 6 pin one. No sense in that at all. However, look here: - fleabay Item #: 261021924011 that will do the trick - same one I use day in day out.
Flashing an ESC with other firmware is usually done if you're not satisfied with the performance of the default ESC firmware, simonk firmware is optimized for multi-rotors which features faster response to throttle changes, low-voltage cut-off disabled and some other settings specifically beneficial for people flying a multi-rotor. If you're flying a plane, there's no need for you to flash this ESC. It will work right out of the box. You will need the USBASP too in addition to this tool.
It will work out of the box as mentioned above BUT my 550 quad would not stop hunting until i flashed them with simom k FW. it was flyable though and did marginally ok.. I have had much better luck with turnigy plush as far as stock ones are concerned.
WTWUK 1130 points
Have a look on the RapidESC Database (google it) there is a spread sheat there and if your ESC's are compatible. Very comprehensive listings of most of the esc's there on a downloadable spreadsheet to keep on hand for refferance.
You can flash the older turnigy plush 18A esc's using this tool (Must be Atmega). The new turnigy plush 18A are run on SiLabs chips and not Atmega which is the component this tool is used on. In order to flash the SiLabs esc's you will require a SiLabs toolstick or to build an Arduino flashing rig. All the information can be found in RapidESC database as suggested by nlmbc. If you would like information on building an Arduino flashing rig please look up olliw (olliwprog)
You should use KK flash tool for easy flashing of Multistar. On a MAC it is very easy as no driver install required. the hex file required is KDA.hex ******* youtu.be/z3wH8DE-Fw4 Please see this video made by other member for very easy to follow instructions
Kudos to you Eddfoo! Yes I have already done the very stimulating research regarding the whole flashing of firmware. My ESC's,my 9X,my KK boards and Even an IMAX B6 ac/dc Lipo charger need firmware. Got Redbrick30's cause Plush were B.O.'d. & expected to see a set of pads, simple right?,..not. Then there was the RSTDSBL thing which brought some confusion to the task of best HexFile install. Love to know why they would make the Atmega unable to accept firmware revisions. After all, think of all the code that has been written in the name of Atmega and all the myriad of applications. When I have the extra ESC's on hand I will attempt to flash the Red Brick 30's and give you the update. All the best mate
I guess the main reason for setting the RSTDISBL is to prevent customers from complaining the esc doesn't work after they bungled the job of flashing the unit and try to return the esc to the supplier.
Can I use this with this: PRODUCT ID: 9171000003, to flash my Turnigy Multistar 30A ESC's (3 x Opto, 1 x BEC inbuilt), are there differences between the BEC and the Opto ones in terms of flashing capability with these tools?
The usbasp can be used with this flashing tool to flash your Multistar esc. The is no difference in the way you flash the Opto and Bec unit. Flash the Esc naked ie with nothing connected. Some laptop usb may not be able to supply enough current for a successful flash, something to take note of.
Just so that I understand, Eddfoo, I may not even have one chance at flashing with my own Hex code? Or flash once and get it right the first time or they are ****? The advice I seek is whether they are worth the effort, if you read the problems reported with them maybe I should just use them for scratch built foam-core trainers, and just use the Turnigy Programmer Card
If they are indeed have the RSTDSBL set, forget about reflashing them. Some find it easier to just replace the Atmega chip with a new one. I would not bother. Get the F30 ESC, they are good, used them alot myself - flashed them with BS_ nfet. No problem so far. Pls confirm the FW, that just came off my head.
Okay this is a two pronged question. Firstly, I want to flash a Redbrick 30A ESC It definately dosent have pads like the Application chart under files here suggests. THe MCU is an Atmega 8A, so I am assuming it will work on it. Correct or no? Secondly the Application Chart says in the notes section that it (the ESC) "May now be shipping with RSTDISBL set"
What Does that mean?
It won't work with the smaller chips. You will have to solder or DIY a separate connector for those chips. The socket is not adjustable, you just press fit it to the chip so the plunger makes contact with the pins.
Alright, this thing is legitimately awesome. A similar setup is gonna run you $160-200 from a renowned international manufacturer. Hint: the group of 3 closely-spaced pins on one corner face *away* from the dot on the ATMega chip. I could otherwise see no alignment features, so I hope this helps.
The 10-pin ISP header is rarer nowadays, and I had to make a crossover cable to work with a 6 pin AVR ISPmkII unit. I know it's supposed to work with a USBASP, but I've also no luck getting the damned USBASP to work *at all*.
I've found this tool to be very useful, saves a lot of time that would have to be spent wiring a port on an ESC that you plan to reprogram. You have to keep firm perpendicular pressure to make sure the connections remain connected.