The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
Sorry to hear about the weather east Maj, I understand our system is merging with the one headed for you guys now,,,,so I'll say sorry in advance,,,,he he. You know that thing about clearing the head with music is true, as a result I found I have a bad ESC! You remember me needling you about my twitch?,,,it wasn't the props. Gordo was right on the money about the geometry of the CF's we both got from the same place in the UK. I went after them with a caliper and sure thing!,,,,,I've got them to balance but,,,,(I wish I was smarter to be able to explain this Maj) it isnt balanced along its plain?,,,,does that make any sence to you,,,it is the fact that they have bigger paddels on one side or the other,,(there wider on some sides than the other). I can tell I am doing a bad job explaining this. Anyway found a warm ESC when all others were cool to the touch after 5 minute flight with the 8000mAh battery. Braught it down to slide battery alittle further forward and did quick check on heat Motors/ESC's and sure enough RR ESC was pretty warm?
Yep understand you Newey .. there are several axis for a prop ... the left vs right half is the easiest to take care of. Balancing along the longitudinal axis is more challenging .. a prop imbalanced along this line would be very hard to balance as the "cause" needs to be looked into carefully ... uneven thickness of the prop blade ... width of the prop blade ... Another balancing challenge is a prop that is not dynamically balanced ... one side pulls more air than the other .... uneven pitch ... uneven prop flex (if any...). I've only encountered these on cheap heli blades ... not on expensive CF blades ...
I've heard of that .. but only for brushed motors to even out the carbon brushes ... BL's don't have brushes sooooo ..... Anywho .. for new BL motors, I glue the wires (so they do not get pulled ...) oil the bearings and add a little bearing slack specially for Bell outrunners with threaded shafts ....
hey,,,,Maj that reminds me,,,,I was gonna ask you about those long shaft motors you and Mooch fly with. I guess I'm asking why them and not a short shaft? I have noticed the prop adapters do get the props up higher with long shaft?,,,,what other reasons have you found to stick with a longer shaft motor. What are the advantages? And before I got to go change Grandma,,,,what oil would you suggest for the very high speed bearings and at what intervals?,,,,,
Short shafts are actually better (AFAIK) as it brings the prop closer to the motor. The high-end copters mount their props on the motor itself because of this .... I have threaded shafts with but those have the props as close to the motor as possible. I cut the TGY 28 shafts I have ... which has worked out okay ... I use the "turbine oil" sold by Ace hardware ... those come with the long plastic spouts that are handy in getting into the motor housing / bearings ....
Also with the longer shaft motors you can end for end the shafts if you want to.. or you can mount another prop underneath which I wouldnt recommend but Maj has a copter with what I call twin props per motor..... apparently it does not make for faster more powerful flight...... you can also just cut off the access and be done with it...
OK Mooch and Maj,,sorry we had a freak snow storm roll threw here and raise hell with flying and doing anything else. Hobby King I know this is not relevent to parts but it is what we do after flying in the shop,,,,he he
When I can't figure out why my copter (or some other robotic or bean counter stuff....) zigs when it's suppose to zag ... music helps clear the nerve synapses that are not working correctly and more often than not, the "answer" just pops out of nowhere while the music is on .. why I cannot explain ... Anywhoo ... the weather here is not nice too ... windy, cold and raining ...
Someone turned me on to "Marty" about a year ago. Always been fun visiting his free web page.
(1) Old metal pan
(2) Mixture of sand and "pee gravel" equal amounts to top of pan
(3) point all four fingers towards the pan and shove in agresivly! ,,,,over and over,,,,that will take care of any finger tip issues and Callas,,,,,he he
On some screens the config.h tab and others won't fit, on the very right edge of all the tabs there will be a hard to see arrow pointing downwards, click that and you should see a list of files that hopefully has config.h in it. If not the MultiWii download page is at hxxps://code.google****/p/multiwii/downloads/list just replace xx with tt.
no dice in that drop down menu their is no cofig.h but their is one in the documents this is what arduino tell me when i load the scrip
* Welcome to MultiWii.
* If you see this message, chances are you are using the Arduino IDE. That is ok.
* To get the MultiWii program configured for your copter, you must switch to the tab named 'config.h'.
* Maybe that tab is not visible in the list at the top, then you must use the drop down list at the right
* to access that tab. In that tab you must enable your baord or sensors and optionally various features.
* For more info go to www.link *
* Have fun, and do not forget MultiWii is made possible and brought to you under the GPL License.
i have tried every 2.3 code i could find does anyone have a ready made code that all i half to do is change the config.h settings i am using a f550 hex
DJ ... try it again ... config.h is on the drop down list very near the bottom ... which is very easy to miss. It's there as I just looked a few minutes ago while configuring a Hex. Another possibility is that your screen resolution may not be set to view the entire Arduino window ... try scrolling around....
Ok thank you I got it I had to configure the file on my mac then swap the files to my pc but the bord is still not working I am using a 550 hex with multi wii pro with gps and bluetooth receiver but my problem now is that the multiwii guide won't white my settings to the bord and when I connect with bluetooth I just get no data errors am I missing something here I just want my waypoint capability.
What MWC 2.3 Nav version are you using - sketch and GUI version should be the same and will only work with WinGUI. Using the correct Wingui version - with BT, can you see sensor activity ? AFAIK ... I2C errors indicate sensor errors that could be caused by a faulty power or intermittent connections ... hard to say what the cause for lack of info. Anywhoo ..try using the USB cord for configuring ... (FYI ....you cannot use BT and USB at the same time ... ) if you still cannot write to your board memory, you probably need to reload a clean sketch and clear you EEPROM before uploading.
I am not sure you you want to but if you can that would be great my email is dj_d_crayz*hotmail**** if you could send me a link to everything I need I can maybe start from scratch I am using arduino compiler and multi wii gui on pc and my phone. Thanks again I appreciate the help.
Not an issue ... go to the Moochasas YouTube channel for great video guides and how-to's - video below. Mooch Hox has several vids on prop balancing, Aux setting etc. etc. and Acro flying. Go to this RCG thread "MultiWii on HK MultiWii Mega Board WITH MTK 3329 GPS" for download links, tips and tricks on the GPS, etc. If you need any help on any matter .. or want to share your latest copter experience, just give "us" a should out ...Newey, Mooch, Gor Hox, etc. would be more than happy to help (H2H).... If you want a challenge look to using EzGUI on an Android device works great ..
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
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Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED