The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
Me again. Question about props, thought id post it here as get some good quick advice on this discussion. Anyways are carbon fibre props worth the extra cash or can anyone recommend a good strong prop to use. Iam currently using cheap gemfan 1045 props but there splitting at the hub after 2-3 flights and its spat a few off mid flight. Ive been quite lucky and only broken a few sets of landing gear and a gps module but starting to think iam pushing my luck abit. Also i live on the coast so i want to fly up and down the coast to video some hidden coves that arnt accessible by foot but dont trust these props at all to be flying over water.
Ahhh so can we assume you got your copter to fly. Gemfans are known to split at the hub. To be honest, I have not split one yet but I know some folks who have. A fellow pilot Newey suggest using the alum spacers on the top and the bottom of the prop to spread the stress and make sure there are no imperfections on the adapter surface pushing against the hub. My preference is to use bell motors with 3mm or 4mm hubs (aka 750 motors) which means even with the nuts/counter nuts on tight, it is not enough to break the hubs. Back to your question. - sometimes it is better to have the prop detonate than the motor to get damaged ... you can have a bunch of spare props in your flight bag - but how many motors can / do you bring? The more expensive CF props are good - but because they are very still needs good balancing. With a set of four, I always get one that needs a lot of TLC. A second option is to use the HQProps ... not as pricey as the CF but very good for performance and durability since they are composite. I'd get CF and HQ ... muck around and see which one has the buzz you like .. they make different noises ...
Yes flying very well now. I think il grab a set each of hq and cf and give them both a whirl. Iam using multistar 935kv motors. I tryed not having the prop nut so tight but it was throwing the nuts off the ccw motors so i had to really tighten them up. The field i fly in has quite long grass so when a prop flys off its quite a soft landing there but if i loose a prop over the sea its bye bye copter so could do with something thats not going to randomly throw itself off.
Sure it's the CCW and not the CW motor? Ahh what you need is a locking nut ... put two nuts one on top of the other (assuming you use nut and not prop adapters). Tighten the nut against itself (hold the lower nut while giving the upper a good turn..) this arrangement would prevent the prop from loosening.
Yea it would have been the cw ones wouldnt it. Iam using the cone shaped nuts that came with the motors, bar one motor which now just has a 6mm nut on it. Two nuts together dont fit on, but thinking about it iam pretty sure the motor with the 6mm nut has never split a prop maybe its worth chucking the cones and just using nuts, worth a try while i wait for cf props.
There seems to be a few new people getting into this board so here is a few helpful hints. Check the purple files section above as it contains a heap of info. The main ones to look for is everything you need to know which is a video on wotogo and questions before you ask....... my youtube channel has a heap of set up vids which I made for new people wanting to set up and fly this great board so check out Moochasas....... remember this is NOT a plug and play board but its really not that hard to set up..... helpful hints are (as per the Qs before you ask) are tell us what gear you have and what you have done and were you are stuck.......... remember we need that info so we can fast track the assessment and hopefully give the right answer so you can quickly be up and away.
Here is an example..... this is my first copter and I am trying to fit it into a SK450 frame. The motors are XYZ 1000kv and the escs are ABC 20 amp....... I am at 1st base with this so how do I set it up...... OR.
I have set up this board in my 330mm hex with 2300kv motors and 12 amp escs...... I have set it up as per Moochasas vid so can you please assist with what options should I select to fly in such as Horizon or Acro etc..... OR I have no idea I just got this board and I want to know how to set it up..... Hopefully you get the idea.
What frame, ,motors and esc do you have exactly. What have you done so far...... do you know that you need to down load a new MultiWii version c/w GUI and wipe the boards program and start from fresh as you cannot use the program already on the board..... can you give us a 1-10 on what you have done so far so we can advise you and continue your build....... cheers
i have a habbywing skywalker quattro 4in1 esc and a turnigy 9x radio reciver. when i plug the esc right into the reciver the motors turn but when i plug in the multiwii board it lights up but the motors dont turn. I am using a frame i 3d printed.
Looking at the GUI ( use the same version GUI for the firmware you loaded i.e 2.2 for 2.2 and if MWC 2.3 Nav use WinGUI 2.3 ) ... the "arm" indicator should illuminate if the board is properly armed ... full down throttle (about 900) and full right yaw (about 2000) .. if you cannot make the FC arm, there is a posted document - "what to do if you board does not arm" . Can I assume you have calibrated your ESC's and that they are not chirping continuously like lost chicks when you plug the LIPO ?
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
42 comments. Reply..
Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED