The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
OK guys I have the stupid question of the day here,,,and I get to ponder the replies and make a decission over the weekend and order what is nessisary based on the responce from this question,,,, What is the reasoning behind a "Satalite receiver"(orange ones). This FC board work with it? Do I have to buy a different Tx? And will it work with a 9xrPro? Trying to stay under a $100.00 for a new radio and with this new project need long range and possibly "LRS unit" for both Tx and Rx units and the radio has to be as Maj says "Be able to mix and match channels to get a 12 channel set-up. Already dumped another $300.00 on the new plane and wanted to run this board but now am buying and Arduino fixed wing board instead, but whole system has to be really long range so no risk of flying out of common sence range. Ok let me have it,,,,,,,,,,
Newey ... a Turnigy 9x Pro ... not as pricey as the Taranis but has most of the bells and whistles. 9XR pro is below USD 100 but with the module, receiver, external antenna will result to "what a nice thing to have" experience at that point, the Taranis will look good for its price - choices, choices ... Satellite receivers have limited range - great for park flying but that's it - they connect to Serial port. With the TGY 9x Pro, you can get the OpenLRS module (JR compatible) and of course use the OpenLRS receivers which would give you a range in the miles ... (not that you need it mind you ...).
Hey Maj I need some advice,,,,lol. I just pulled the trigger on a EPP-FPV 1.8M X-Large EPP & Carbon Fiber R/C Plane here at HK and all the goodies to get it in the air. But this is gonna be the FPV plane, so I wanted to use the extra MW board I fixed and use it for a flight controler? I seen in the CONFIG there was a selection for plane wasn't there? What do you think about this for a DIY auto pilot? I'm sure I should be able to tweak it to work,,,,but do you think I should? Ardopilot with Arduino seems the more logical choice for it. Does the Naze32 work for fixed that you know of? LastlyI'm not sure how to plumb the aileron, elevator and rudder using the MWFC board. Will they then have to be plugged into the motor pin-outs posibly?,,,,,Im lost. And I have to add a MINOSD into the mix as well? I am still on a tripod mounted dual anttenna monitor for my ground station, cant afford the fancy goggles yet. Got any input Maj I am like a kid with a new toy.
I have not used the MWC Pro for airplane stabilization but the option is there. Sorry I can't speak to that - yet. But this RCG thread covers the topic with a Pro board "h t t p :// w w w. r c groups. c o m/ forums/ showthread.php? t=2078096" or Google "Multiwii airplane setup" first one up. As a note, the RCG thread talks about the Pro V2 board that has different sensors and orientation. Might be a challenge to use this HK Pro board .. be careful.
Sounds like what to not do. Will have to back up and order that other board. Now on to another thing. When I ordered this 9X mode 2, isnt the moduel suposed to override basic factory settings once the moduel is snaped into place?,,,cause my radio after doing the "Hold exit and power up" is now saying at initial power up that it is saying it is in mode one? I am not having any luck programming the three way position switch for off/POS HOLD/ RTH? I am but moments from just bashing this stupid thing. And I hope I did not just set thi9s factory reset and have cost me my radio. Do you know of any straight forward tutorials that guide a person threw this very frustrating proceedure. Oh and another thing, after setting AUX channel 5 for GEAR and channel 6 ThRO-HOLD I switch to my endpoints for that channel and can change the left side settings to 120, but cant seem to get the right side end points to do anything. Help buddy Im falling and cant get www.link
To get back to Mode 2, go to the System Settings (same menu you can chose models) go down to "Stick Set" and chose Mode 2. Look at the Default screen and make sure you are now on Mode 2. Go to "Function Settings" and scroll to the "Display" if all is well, you should see Throttle move when you move left stick upwards, etc. Sometimes the throttle reverses ... go to "Reverse" and make the change for Throttle. To change endpoints - you need to move the stick you want to change and make the change as you pull the stick to max. Go back to Display and make sure what you want is what you get.
Well Maj I finally got what I had back up and running,,,thanks. Still having no luck getting three way working in a way that gives me two gear functions so that position one is for "POS HOLD" and position two is for RTH, but I am beat mentally and will attack this tomarrow,,further away from any hammers,,,he he
Newey, the way I do the three way is in the mixer - one 'mix' for each position of the switch. The key is to change the weight on each mix, one at 100%, one at 0%, and one at minus 100%. At least that's how I have been doing it.
Hey awsum to hear from you Gordo,,,,and I think I seen some footage you shot from the "Sadals Casino" in vegas,,,great job! I loved the zoom up to the water fountains and the pool shots where outstanding. If that was not yours it was awsum anyhow. Had to be a two person team as it was flawless,,,aspect always in veiw and focused with "0" wobble or deflection, great job! I have done all that for about three days now. I will try the 100 / 0 / -100 when we get back from Grangeville.
Newey ... a few posts down ... Wom posted a video of how to enable the three way function switch. There is also a posted "turnigy 9x stock programming" in the Files section. Use Display to make sure you have what you want. Play around with the Mix ... you'll get the weird logic after some time. Take lots of notes ... so you can go back and forth on the settings. If you want to keep your hair with more models to chose from plus 20 model memory, get the Turnigy 9x Pro and a FrSky Tx module.
Newey, I wish I could take credit for that film. I haven't posted anything public yet, so I will email you guys some links. We have been filming the graffiti art murals at night down in the art district, but last night I crashed while filming in the trees - I forgot to deactivate the geofence and when I reached it, the quad proceeded to 15M alt and headed home. It hit the trees before I could de-activate RTH. No major damage so I got lucky.
Gordy ... RTE's with a copter loaded with bling-bling always makes me cry ... wahhhhhh. Seriously, it is easy to get distracted when flying ... too many things that rush to your head ... battery, orientation, wind condition, light condition, radio battery ... did I hook that Lipo securely ??? Arghhhhh ... all good fun though.
I have the 650 rigged with two RX's, with one controlling the CAM/gimbal. The video downlink goes to the cameraman and I fly line of sight for now. We also have a safety spotter there most of the time to help judge distances. We are still learning how to work as a team and we already know we need radios for us to communicate while flying.
Majik, I got really lucky - when it hit the street, the landing gear took most of the impact and the gimbal and camera didn't get a scratch. The film was almost worth it. I'll email you guys some links when it's posted.
I bind MultiWii with Devention (DEVO 10) Transmitter and RX1002 10CH receiver. I have set the Throttle and Rudder 120%. But I couldn't see any Live RC data and can't arm. The Blue and Red LED lit on the board, just constant stable light, not flickering. When I power on, There are another Red LED Flashing together with Blue LED, then that LED off, but there is something like Power LED and Blue LED remain on. Please help
Be sure your rx connections are correct. FC board outer pins are ground, center is power and inner signal. Follow the channel assignments. When you can connect to the GUI, hit the calibrate Accel button and the flashing LED should stop. If you cannot arm, read the posted doc in the Files section - what to do when your board does not arm.
All connections are correct. There are few LEDs. 5V Red LED always lit. And LED1 (RED) and LED2 (Green) Flashing together at start up. LED3 (Blue) is always lit. After a while, 5V LED, LED2 (Green) and LED3 (Blue) Remains. There is tone of from low to high pitch end by another same high pitch tone. Usually successful tone. But I still cant see my stick movement on Live RC data.
I saw the Jumper J1 was closed, I opened the J1 and test again, no result. I set AUX1(Mid) to arm in software, also no results.
The computer can communicate with board, I can save, load setting, save mission and reload etc etc.
I see several documents from file tab, but yet none help to solve my problem.
Finally it works :D, I had to upload MWC 2.3 Official. And bad consequences is I can't upload mission to the FC anymore. One of the forums post suggests to download updated version of new GUI and Firmware from
I haven't downloaded yet. Please advise me.
Once again, thanks ... it works!!!
MWC 2.3 official does not support missions. The critical path for now is to get your board running, get the GPS running get the copter to fly properly. Test all the flight modes specially alt-hold, PH and RTH - which needs you mag need properly inputted. When all is 100% ok, it becomes your choice to move forward with MWC 2.3 Nav ... which have some gottcha's. FYI, be sure you put open cell foam over your baro inside the case ... before you close it.
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
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Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED