The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
Arming problem! Board will arm with sticks as long as I do not have any aux settings. If I set aux settings at all it will no llonger arm with sticks or even aux switch setting. Very weird and driving me crazy! Any ideas? I am running EOSBANDI 2.3 Navi B7 on it.
IAW how many times have you modified or changed your sketch?..... have you over written the program settings..... reason is that some people modify and change settings re-uploading their sketch and then the board will have issues...... so can I suggest you clear the eprom and re-upload your sketch ensuring you have all the correct settings done before you hit upload...... failing that to answer your Q there shouldnt be any relation to the AUX and the arming unless you have ARM as a AUX setting as well as having it selected in your sketch...... you may also have a mix setting in your radio that is preventing you from arming such as a min throttle mix on a duel rate which could be restricting the stick from reaching the arm set point..... I hope all that makes sense....... recap..... I would clear the sketch and re-upload and I would also check the radio for mixes...... let us know how you go on..... cheers
To add ... sometimes the mundane act of arming can be daunting ... to add to Mooch's notes ... if after you still cannot arm, can I suggest you download and upload MWC 2.2 official for now ... it's stable and does not have the gotchas of the MWC 2.3 Nav beta release. To echo Mooch, Radio with no mixes, center trims and calibrate the sticks. If still no arm, take a look at the posted document "what to do when you board does not arm" in the Files section. If you have a S p e k t r u m radio, this is a common concern addressed by adjusting the endpoints. If and when you can get your board to arm, then reload MWC 2.3 Nav - but beware of the gotcha's ... Rx input type, GPS settings, Mag Dec to name the easy ones to come to my head.
Just asking ... how do you calibrate the compass? a) It has to be rotated 360 degress along its three axis away from any magnetic fields ot metallic objects within 30 seconds or one minute depending on what methodology you use. b) If you have a power distribution board, take it out and replace it with a power harness running the wires along the edge of the board and not under it. c) make sure you have no magnetic sources on board near the compass ... i.e. buzzers, servos, screws/nuts, shields. There is a reason people build with stainless steel and nylons screws and nuts ... to avoid magnetic interference.
Dear Majk, exactly as you said. Rotate it 360 degrees along its three axis. Unfortunately I have to admit I alwys did inside.
Also you're right - I'm using a power distribution board but even if I do not power through lipo - will the distri board intefere? Will I be able to connect an external HMC5883L to some port?
At the moment I have a Neo-6M?! (the one without compass) and a BT 2.1 connected to the board via UART. I also have an HC-SR04 laying around on my desk that I'd like to use (even if its only for virtualisation purpose).
Thanks in advance for your great support!
One last question about gimbal for Mwii. There is a thing in GUI in mission planning called POI (point of interest) Am I right thinking that if I connect servo gimbal to Mwii then the camera will actually lock on POI? And the copter will turn towards POI in a headfree mode? And if it is, then I understand that there is the same option in brushless gimbal controller too) Thanks)
BLG controllers have a 3 axis variant - meaning you can turn the camera on the horizontal plane (yaw control) to point to a particular spot / direction but it will not be fixed to that spot since the copter sensors (GPS or mag sensor) of the copter are not connected/related to the BLG function. If your camera is oriented with the copter and waypoint POI is enabled, the copter i.e. camera will point to a fixed spot (like heading hold) - as a function of the copter's flight capabilities ... not the BLG. Which is why, professional video productions have two people involved ... the pilot and the camera operator ... to make sure the camera is pointed to the subject matter despite changes in direction and/or altitude.
Ok another Dumb question..I would like to get my quad up and running with as few problems as possible..What Will happen if I load the MultiWii 2.3 MTK GPS Working sketch into my copter? Am I going to have more of those COM port issues or will it get my GPS up and running with as few tweaks as possible? Again.. Sorry for the ignorance...
If you use the sketch you downloaded from here, and you are using the MKT, your GPS will not work as the sketch was configured for the UBLOX GPS unit. ... so ... you need to have the following lines uncommented a) NMEA b) Init_MKT c) Serial 2 and d) Baud rate 115200 ... Connection should be Rx-Tx, Tx-Rx, 5v-5v, Grd-Grd ... look carefully at the pin description and do not rely on the wire colors. Elevate your GOS unit at least 10cm from the board and keep the wires away from any electrical components. Lastly, input the magnetic declination for your location .. there is a posted document in the Files section that explains how to compute mag dec properly. Before you take your quad for a test, make sure the motor connections are correct, the motor direction correct and the props properly attached ... refer to the posted "motor plan" as a guide. The only dumb questions are those not asked ...
Yep that gimbal you got is a brushless gimbal and you need a brushless gimbal controller. There are BLG controllers available here at HK - look at the suggested combo items. How to tune it depends on what controller you get, how you attached your IMU sensor and what controls you intend to enable for your BLG.
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
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Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED