Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board
Designed by the Grand father of the KK revolution, Rolf R Bakke, exclusively for HobbyKing, the KK2.0 is the evolution of the first generation KK flight control boards. The KK2.0 was engineered from the ground up to bring multi-rotor flight to everyone, not just the experts. The LCD screen and built in software makes install and setup easier than ever. A host of multi-rotor craft types are pre-installed. simply select your craft type, check motor layout/propeller direction, calibrate your ESCs and radio and your ready to go! all of which is done with easy to follow on screen prompts!
The original KK gyro system has been updated to an incredibly sensitive dual chip 3 Axis gyro and single chip 3 axis accelerometer system making this the most stable KK board ever and allowing for the addition of an Auto-level function. At the heart of the KK2.0 is an Atmel Mega324PA 8-bit AVR RISC-based microcontroller with 32k of memory. An additional 2 motor output channels have been added to the KK2.0 allowing for a total of 8 motors to be controlled (Octocopter). A handy Piezo buzzer is also included with the board for audio warning when activating and deactivating the board.
If your new to multi-rotor flight or have been unsure about how to setup a KK board then the KK2.0 was built for you. The 6 Pin USBasp AVR Programming interface ensures future software updates will be quick and easy.
Specs. Size: 50.5mm x 50.5mm x 12mm Weight: 21 gram (Inc Piezo buzzer) IC: Atmega324 PA Gyro: InvenSense Inc. Accelerometer: Anologue Devices Inc. Auto-level: Yes Input Voltage: 4.8-6.0V AVR interface: standard 6 pin. Signal from Receiver: 1520us (5 channels) Signal to ESC: 1520us Firmware Version: 1.2
Pre-installed firmware. Dualcopter Tricopter Y6 Quadcopter + Quadcopter X Hexcopter + Hexcopter X Octocopter + Octocopter X X8 + X8 X H8 H6 V8 V6 Aero 1S Aileron Aero 2S Aileron Flying Wing Singlecopter 2M 2S Singlecopter 1M 4S (Custom Mix via the "Mixer Editor" option)
The Mixer Editor allows you to adjust where and how much signal the motors receive from stick input and sensors. This allows you to create any configuration possible with up to 8 motors or servos.
Whats is a Multi-Rotor Control board you ask?
The HobbyKing KK2.0 Multi-Rotor controller is a flight control board for multi-rotor Aircraft (Tricopters, Quadcopters, Hexcopters etc). Its purpose is to stabilize the aircraft during flight. To do this it takes the signal from the three on board gyros (roll, pitch and yaw) then passes the signal to the Atmega324PA IC. The Atmega324PA IC unit then processes these signals according the users selected firmware and passes control signals to the installed Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs). These signals instruct the ESCs to make fine adjustments to the motors rotational speed which in turn stabilizes your multi-rotor craft.
The HobbyKing KK2.0 Multi-Rotor control board also uses signals from your radio systems receiver (Rx) and passes these signals to the Atmega324PA IC via the ail, ele, thr and rud inputs. Once this information has been processed the IC will send varying signals to the ESCs which in turn adjust the rotational speed of each motor to induce controlled flight (up, down, backwards, forwards, left, right, yaw).
Note: A user manual is available under the files tab. *Royalties paid on each unit sold to Rolf R Bakke, the original KK Designer.
James Thanks for suggestions but I doubt if I could find and fix a circuit or even know it when I saw it. At this point I am the kind of guy that would spray it with contact cleaner, bang it on the table a couple of times and hope for the best. If new programmer works or I figure it out I will post here. I am a mainframe programmer but never deal with all this PC GUI ****.
Then you're stretching the capabilities of that board. You would have to have a board I would imagine that would be able to talk to a computer constantly. The APM 2.5 can do that via telemetry but then synchronizing 2 or more would require a program that would actually be able to go in and tell the boards where to go and what to do etc. and then talking at 57,600 Bd there's going to be quite a lag. Most of what you see in the videos are custom-built Arduino's running custom-built software.
Hi. On my KK2.0 motor 2 and 4 are running much slower than 1 and 3. I have calibrated the ESC's several times, and checked the PID levels. If I change motor 3 and 4, then the problem moves, so it is coming from the KK2.0 board, and not the ESC's. So some setting in the KK2.0 is wrong, but which one?
Assuming this is a quad, it sounds like it is a rudder/yaw issue. Check your TX that rudder trim is centered. To center it on the KK2, go into receiver test and make sure all parameters read zero (0). Keep trims on TX at zero, use TX subtrims to zero it on the KK2. If that doesn't work, it may be the mixer editor setting were changed. You would probably want to go back to default settings in the mixer editor if they were changed.
I loaded the default settings into the KK2.0. Checking the RC shows something weird unbalance:
Ail: -77 Left 90 Right
Elev: -96 Forward 98 Rev.
Throttle: 0 - 107
Rudder: 114 Left -80 Right
Should I correct this in the Mixer table???
You may not want to make any changes in the mixer editor on the KK2, keep the default settings. What you can do to save confusion is zero evrerything on your transmitter and start fresh with the suggestions I made earlier. In the end, you want all the readings to be zero on the KK2 in the receiver test menu.
I that doesn't fix it, the you may have to fiddle with the throttle level in the mixer editor as suggested by StoneBlue. But leave that as last resort as the mixer editor is really there to make custom settings if your quad is not a typical symmetrical plus ( ) or X configuration.
If you still have the issue with everything zero in receiver test, you may try what StoneBlueAirline suggested. For the channels that are giving less throttle, maybe try higher numbers in small increments until it balances out. It's strange never heard of this before. Are all your esc's and motors the same. Any binding on the motors that are slower?
Same ESC's and motors, except one is with BEC. It is the two motors, which are reversed, 2 and 4, and I did this by switching the red/black wire. Is that the right way to do that? Or should I have taken the yellow? No where I can see that it should make any difference. What kind of binding are you thinking of? They all have the same power connector (soldered on 12 AWG)
If you are speaking about the 3 motor wires, it should not matter how it's connected to get the desired rotation. Regarding binding, I meant if they spin freely by hand like the others. Depending on the motor and how they are mounted, the shaft can sometimes rub on the boom/arm (if it's a scratchbuilt). I doubt this is the issue, but was just mentioning it to rule out possibilities. Regarding a possible failing gyro, check in the sensor test, it should all say OK.
I tried to switch motor 3 and 4, and then the problem just moves, so the motors are fine, it is coming from the KK2, no doubt (or the RC, which is a HK6S)
Think I will try SBA's solution, very carefully :)
Hi, When this happens its usually because of one or more of these things: One or more of the motors are turning in the wrong direction. Look at the diagram on the display and verify.I have found that if the motors are spinning in wrond direction, then the props are probably wrong direction also. If they are spinning wrong, you may need to move the props to. Also can be caused by the motors not spooling up together which is caused by ESC's not being calibrated. I prefer to use a calibration card if possible. This can also be caused by having the ESC's plugged into the wrong ports. Once you have sorted out that motors and props are correct, recalibrate the sensors on the board via the menu. Hope that helps.
If your motors are setup correctly it could just be the AIL servo setting in your transmitter may need to be reversed. Also, if you are flying with auto-level ON be sure your board was calibrated on a level surface.
This is why I questioned about the auto-level. It is often difficult to trouble shoot problems with often times limited information such as "my quad want to tip over to the left when its going to lift off?" Often I find the problems are just simple things that are quickly overlooked and if I can help just one person out, this forum is working.
Also wanted to throw in the fact that with auto-level on and servo reversing set incorrectly will cause the craft to immediately try to correct itself in the wrong direction possibly causing his flipping problem at liftoff with just throttle input.
wooooooow great responce guys. the problem was i had an esc in the wrong port. now i have to figure out why 1 multistar esc stopped working. but the bec still works tough. the motor is ok, its the esc, the one which was supplying current to the board. any clues?
Time for some "swap with known good" type troubleshooting. Try swapping that ESC with one of the others? Or better yet, try it by it self with just a receiver and motor. It may just be bad.. I have two Multistars that no longer function. If you search google for this exact term: (The new KK2 FC, info and Q&A in first post) you will find the best info on this board from the designer himself.
Yes, HK should pay for royalties atleast since they mention it on product page and possibly made a contract and agreement. Nope, waterlogged and newtohobbyking are still fighting like two small girls. Just got message they replied to my thread on the other two KK boards. Im new to this forum, but after 2 weeks im tired of them both. I dont think they realised that most of the negative comments I made was aimed at them. I see HK have removed alot of comments here since yesterday. :-) ..and my jokes..oh, well i suppose i missused the space.
*James Thanks for your suggestions. Yes I researched lazyzero and many others. Tried 32bit and 64bit. Comm is not problem. Can plug in programmer or thumb drives and they are instantly recognized. The problem is even with auto load drivers off. Devices and printers shows under devices unspecified and under the icon is USBHID. Right click properties to update driver and browse for driver usbasp-windriver from lazyzero download. Won’*t update says ‘*the best driver software is already installed’* ‘*Windows has determined the driver software for your device is up to date’* ‘*HID compliant device’*. Have seen complaints about forced drivers on windows site? Is not my computer either. First used a laptop when problem occurred then went to a desktop and reacts exactly the same. I’*ve loaded product drivers many times before but never prevented. I think the common thing is the programmer. Have another programmer coming from HK and one from US site.
weird... USBHID = universal serial bus human interface device... try to plug it onto another USB port... or the port behind the desktop connected directly to the motherboard... you have to try everything... software and hardware related... inspect the USBasp AVR programming device for any shorts on the pcb... check for tombstones and pillowing on the SMD resistors and capacitors... forced drivers? seems familiar but i've never had that issue before sorry for the lack of information... Hopefully the new programmer you ordered is fine thus can conclusively decide that the USBasp you have now is faulty...
@Stephen I think I need to answer a couple of replies. You First. Yes I have been to many sites looking and youtube and MS but still getting headache looking at screen. Just came from suggested site and placed order. After $100's a couple bucks is worth a try. Thanks for usefull info.
Tried win7,ie9,j.a.v.a. all 64bit no good. Had turned auto off after first try. Still can't make change as usbhid may be burned on programmer or programmer NG. Thanks for offer but in US very kind. ordered 2 kk2 and another programmer months ago should arrive in a couple of days. Affraid it will happen all over because still can't identify problem.
sorry to hear that mate. im out of ideas then to be honest. im not very computer savvy. if I were you, id go over to rc groups kk2 thread and ask, im sure someone on there will be able to help. good luck, I hope you get it sorted.
A lot of people have had issues with the USBasp dongle purchased from Hobbyking. Seems that they were shipped without being themselves flashed with its own appropriate software, so the user would not be able to use it. Go t the USBasp product page and view the discussions to see if anyone has found a solution. I personally bought one from a US website for 4US dollars and it worked immediately with my 64bit Windows 7 PC. The website is called Valuehobbydotcom if you want to check it out. Good luck
you make a good point there, i have seen a couple of posts here and there saying the usbasp does not come with fw anymore. whats the point of that?! so you have to flash the flashing tool now before you can use it?! makes a lot of sense that!bit like selling a tx with no electronics inside really. as in, completely pointless.
did you visit lazyzero's website? they have info there for flashing your KK Board and drivers for new and old operating systems... if you have and it still doesnt work, then maybe its your computer... you probably have too many USBs attached to it thus it cannot lock a Communication port for your programmer... i've had this problem before where the CP2102s take priority communicating to other devices thus your programmer could not be found due to this issue... try go to device manager and select comm ports and remove and plug in your programmer usb an see if you get a response... as you plug your USB in, device manager should refresh knowing that it has detected a communications port... if you see it refresh with your programmer icon, right click it and search a driver for it on your computer... try this for now and report back with your progress... good luck
they are mike yeah. pretty bad if you ask me. still, mr kk said himself he is surprised he got any payments at all so I guess he is taking it on the chin! still a low thing to do imo though.im sure he will get it sorted in the end so don't let it stop you from getting this great fc while its still in stock!
great fc. I have 3 all running 1.6 what I do find a shame is that hk have not paid rolf his royalties in the last 3 months and refuse to answer his emails.so the statement under the above description is not quite true. just thought people should know that the money they pay for this is all going in mr hands bank account and for the last 3 months none, nada, zilch, zip of it has gone to the original designer. anyone else think that's unfair or just me?
That is terrible! I would be very p- O'd aat HK if I were him, I'm sure he is. The KK board is so popular and always in demand. I bet it has got to be one of the most requested/ sold items on the site. That is a shame to do that to Mr. Blake. What are we (the customers) to do about it? Its not like we can get this board from him directly and Im sure he signed some sort of deal with HK for the merchandising rights to it. First thing I'd do is contact my lawyer then design a new board with GPS capabilities and find a way to mass produce them himself. Im sure with is geinus mind and popularity, someone with the power to make it happen, would. Sorry to hear that Rolf, WE ARE BEHIND YOU! Good Luck and thank you.
lol... im sure this is not one of the most sold items on here... there are other products that take priority such as Batteries, Connectors, wires etc... im sure everyone has atleast 2 batteries per 1 flight controller... anyways... you cant really make money by selling a few hundreds of these unless you have capital for advertisements... on the other hand... WE as HOBBYIST need to promote this product and test its reliability before we can safely credit the creator...
i know this board doesn't have an altitude hold. But it feels like the board isn't very stable at the height.
I've seen videos at youtube where people can lay down their transmitter while the copter is holding the altitude.
This isn't nearly possible with my tricopter.
E.g. in a throttle position of 30%, the copter sometimes gain height and sometime don't lift up.
So its harder to fly the tricopter.
I'm using the D2830-11 Turnigy motors with the 20A Hobbyking UBEC Escs with an 3s 2600mah battery.
By what you're describing, it sounds like your board needs to be dialed in. If it's not holding a hover well (either going up or down), then you're P and I gains need to be tuned. Particularly P gain will cause it to climb or descend, not maintain and bouncy when trying to land. Try dialing down your P gain in small increments and test. Also, if you add a throttle curve in your tx that will make you have a flatter hover stick position.
What you probably want to adjust is the height dampening setting on this KK2 board. It helps keep the model from climbing/descending. It is not alt. hold, but it does help. Make small adjustments, fly, and decide where to go from there.
I suggest NOT using height dampening until you dial in your P gain. Height dampening has nothing to do with maintaining a hover. It is a means of throttle compensation while in forward attitude. It has no effect on hovering and can possibly confuse and throw off tuning. Leave it until after you have dialed in you P and I gains.
You are assuming the P and I settings are not set correctly. I am just adding to the suggestion and height dampening is another adjustment in the tuning of the KK2 board, trust me on this, it will affect your flight performance and can make it much better or much worse depending on the setting. I suggest not withholding information when people ask for advise.
Yes I am assuming P and I are not tuned as that's how I interpreted the issue. I don't think I was withholding information by not suggesting something that could be irrelevant to the issue. Height dampening may very well be the issue Matthias is having but it didn't sound like it by what he described. Do you disagree with my suggestion of not using it until the P and I gains are dialed? Your statement about me withholding information seems of a condescending tone. No worries for me. Matthias, you can update to firmware V1.6 if you're still on V1.2. If you are having a loss of altitude while in forward flight, height dampening can help. Typically when in forward flight, thrust is lessened vertically as it directed laterally. This will cause you to loose a little altitude while in motion. Usually you would manually increase a little throttle to maintain altitude while in motion. Height dampening is a feature that does this for you and is adjustable according to the value used. That's what height dampening does and not so much "make it much better or worse". If none of these suggestions improve your tricopter, it may be something else. There are a bit more things that can affect a tricopters performance more so than a quad. Let us know how it works out.
Height dampening is when you're ascending or descending your multirotor... if you dampen the effect then it should execute (descending/ascending) the instruction smoothly... more exponentially and not linear so you dont land hard and climb instantaneously... its related to setting your transmitter expos... Anyways, i find condescending tones funny because people stand for what they believe in... we cannot really hate but inform them of pertinent information... alt hold prevents your copter to flip over therefore eliminating manual mode for flips and acrobatic maneuvers... i suggest you upgrade your firmware to 1.5 or 1.6 for a more stable craft and turn down all your gains then test your craft and adjust your PID... from my experience reduce P gain to 10 and this should prevent the craft from wobbling... increment accordingly... then execute...
It is just about impossible to get any tri, quad or whatever to hover near perfect without auto-level set up correctly this is why I "ASSUMED" V1.5 or better is not installed. No reason to get your panties in a wad just because someone else may have a suggestion to help another modeler out otherwise it would be named the "Ask SLN RC a question and only he has the correct answer" forum.
LOL... "any kind of help is fine whether helpful or not". I guess if someones on fire and you toss them some matches, it's all good. Love that!
So James, you're saying height dampening is like expo on the throttle or an autonomous effect on descending/ascending? It does feel somewhat floaty when you put in a higher number.
Skeet, that's just silly.
Yes, James is correct. Height dampening works the same as using expo on your throttle channel, it dampens the signal and makes the throttle less touchy. I personally use it only in my high KV motor setups where rpm's greatly vary with the slightest throttle input making it very difficult to maintain a set altitude or just controlling altitude in general.
(not aimed at you in particular Stephen or sln) I think people are better off not using height dampening. it would be much better in the long run for your skills as a pilot to learn to manage the throttle yourself during forward flight. of course, if you have never flown before I can see why people would want to use it. but as soon as you are comfy in forward flight, id say turn it off and learn to manage the throttle yourself. I believe you will become a better pilot for it.
It will not work as a low voltage alarm unless you solder a wire from the board to your distribution cables or battery so that it can measure the total voltage of your battery, otherwise it will just beep when you make any menu selections by pressing one of the four buttons. There are many videos on YouTube that can show you the exact location on the board that you need to solder the positive voltage to (negative is not needed as the board already is grounded by your esc's or dedicated bec). Happy flying
Roger is almost correct. Ok the KK2 with stock firmware it will beep when you arm and disarm, it will beep while it's armed with no throttle input, it will beep continuously after 30min of no input as a lost model alarm, plus it works as a low voltage alarm with later firmware(1.3 onward IIRC), you just have to solder one small gauge wire to the board and connect it to the positive wire in your wiring harness.
This is the reason why it is in BK. And then other people go to look in other stores to pay more then nessesary. HK makes it possible to have this RC HOBBY for poor and rich people.
For example here in holland its forbidden now to make more money with concert tickets. Hobbyking have to do the same with this kind of items that are in BK everytimes
:( for that reason I feel like buying more but for myself just in case a crash because in a crash and i need more board it could be back order because bozo like other companies buying to sell more and put everybody on wait line for hk. I don't want to buy this product from a company that wants to make more money. I understand about profit but hk like this board get out of stock easily because people like these and then we have to get scanless and buy double the price.
I have this KK2 on my wishlist and i subscribe on notification each time it get in stock, but no notification last 2 weeks on kk2..i know we get only 5 or so notifications before it autostop sending notification. I have only got that on this item once and that was a couple of months ago. Another thing i have noticed last 2 weeks is HK pages take loooong time to complete loading. Anybody else notice this?
just so everyone know i ordered this board, only one, several weeks ago, Last check it has just arrived my country, and will probably be delivered to my door this week. I dont understand you comment Stephen, other than proof my point several other places that ppl answer in hope that they get ponts or something for free..? READ WHAT I WRITE! If i complained on something, i question why i dont recieve the notification when stock arrive.
most are good but it is always possible you get a bad one though i have not heard of it yet. try a factory reset then recalibrate or try to update firmware again a crash is usually due to your gains being set to high you will have to reflash it to fix it if it will fix. hope this helps you.
also the escs really need fashed as well this is a main cause aswell for crash because when not flashed they wont calculate fast enough and the board trys to overcompansate causing a layering efect in the data wich causes crash shutdown you fall out of the sky. so flash both and then fly only with selflevel on so this wont happen again. ohh and if the battery gets to low it also will shutdown you fall so set your low voltage meter so this dosent happen to you and land when it beeps!
hi tommy.this is not aimed at you in particular but your statement is the most relevant to what I wanted to say. simonk flashed esc's don't have lvc (low voltage cut off)lvd can be dangerous for quads as not all esc's will detect low volatage at the same time, resulting in a crash. if you use flashed speedies you need to use the supplied voltage alarm or use your own.if you use non flashed esc's (turnigy plush ets) then when you programme them, set the battery type to nimh or anything other than lipo. this will disable the lvc on them and you can use the supplied voltage alarm. setting the battery type to non lipo config will not harm them, as long as you use a voltage alarm.
I have followed diehardaddicts on YouTube for the set up this guy is sponsored by hobby king his set up is spot on but it does wobble a bit in 5-10 mph winds make sure you have self level switch on as well this does help. When doing sensor set up for the first time make sure the surface is level us a bubble level to check then the self level will work very well.
its in gain or limits to stop osolating wobbles but most wobbles are from props that are not perfectly balanced carbon fiber balanced blades will fix that if not turn the gain s down 10 points try it keep going till the osilation stops
I have a quadcopter using lcd KK2.0 but why after the setting is ok but when flying was still rocking back and forth can not be silent, although not as good as NAZA wear anyway. I want to ask why did ya? what can I do to make my quadcopter can be stabilized by the standards kk2.0 lcd. thank you
English: WOW WOW WOW The best and cheaper flight controller for multicopter and not. You can find thousand pages on internet for calibrate it. The controller have the last firmware installed. (the my have 1.2 firmvare). I have ordered 3 of it, both for my 70cm outdoor and 23cm indoor quadcopter.
Italiano: WOW WOW WOW Il controllore di volo migliore e più economico per multicopter e non. È possibile trovare migliaia di pagine su internet per calibrarlo. Il controllore ha l'ultimo firmware installato. (la mia ha la Ver 1,2 di firmvare). Ne ho ordinato 3 schede, sia per il mio quad da 70cmper il volo all'aperto che il micro da 23 cm.
3 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
Got the board today, looks state of art but, not all functions working, went to sensor test option and it showed all ACC sensors OK and on gyro X and Y ok but Z-not Ok, tried to calibrate on horizontal non moovable table-but it keept failing...So believe the gyro sensor on Z axes faulty-already second board in my collection that I believe wasn't checked properly by QC
Will try to look into other settings,maybe find something what causing it,
otherwise would try to look for replacement...
17 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
facilissima da usare settaggi veloci e intuitivi, tutte le configurazioni gia
memorizzate ho realizzato il mio primo x copter in 2 giorni e ora ne ho ordinata una seconda per un tricottero... nessuna programmazione al pc
looks great no programming needed i hope that it will be back in stock soon and i hope that hk will provide a version with magnetic compass in it
19 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
Over all this is a great board with many features that are easy to access. The added screen makes all configuration dummy proof and accelerometers help with unwanted drift. You can also use the custom mixer for any crazy ideas that may not have an existing program.
Take a look at my walk through video on youtube by searching this 0rgxE9Uw