More than just a fancy name. TURNIGY nano-tech lithium polymer batteries are built with an LiCo nano-technology substrate complex greatly improving power transfer making the oxidation/reduction reaction more efficient, this helps electrons pass more freely from anode to cathode with less internal impedance. In short; less voltage sag and a higher discharge rate than a similar density lithium polymer (non nano-tech) battery. For those that love graphs, it means a straighter, longer curve. For pilots it spells stronger throttle punches and unreal straight-up performance. Excellent news for 3D pilots!
Unfortunately with other big brands; numbers, ratings and graphs can be fudged. Rest assured, TURNIGY nano-techs are the real deal, delivering unparalleled performance!
* The nano-core technology in lithium ion batteries is the application of nanometer conductive additives. 1) The nanometer conductive additives form ultrastrong electron-conducting networks in the electrodes which can increase electronic conductivity. 2) These additives create a superstrong ability for imbibition in the carrier liquid to supply more ion channels. This improves the ability of ion transmission and ion diffusion. Through improving electronic conductivity and ion transmission, the impedance is reduced and the polarization of high rate discharge decreases greatly. Advantages over traditional Lipo batteries; -Power density reaches 7.5 kw/kg. -Less Voltage sag during high rate discharge, giving more power under load. -Internal impedance can reach as low as 1.2mΩ compared to that of 3mΩ of a standard Lipoly. -Greater thermal control, pack usually doesnt exceed 60degC -Thickness swelling during heavy load doesnt exceed 5%, compared to 15% of a normal Lipoly during heavy load. -Higher capacity during heavy discharge. More than 90% at 100% C rate. -Fast charge capable, up to 15C on some batteries. -Longer Cycle Life, almost double that of standard lipoly technology.
I use both these and the 25C version, and my experience is that if you run at that current level continuously, you will damage the battery, even if you don't get voltage sag. The 25C should in theory be good for 32.5A continuous, but I cooked one going at 30A for 2 and a half minute (it got so hot that one cell got damaged and the whole thing puffed). It held up well voltage-wise though, so I got no indication of trouble during the flight, but once I landed the damage was done. The 45C holds up perfectly for that load though. I have taken out as much as 40A of them more or less continuously, but then they are really warm after the run, not hot but really warm. At this load I get some voltage sag, but it holds up at 10V or so. You need a good margin to your actual load C-wise, I would say the absolute maximum for these batteries is 45A-50A. I assume you have a watt meter, but in case you don't, I use this one: TR-Wattmeter , it's really handy and eliminates a lot of guesswork. HTH
Thanks for the details. I think I´*ll load this one at about 40A so it should hold up. My 25 C 3S 1200 (airsoft type) nanotech were not holding up to their C-rate giving about 23 A after a couple cycles so I was hoping for more power from these ones at the expense of weight.
Is it perhaps so that you actually consume 31A - 39A? Do you have a watt meter (I use this one: TR-Wattmeter) to check this with? The 90C rating is only for a few seconds anyway, not for continuous consumption. Actually, the 45C which are stated here to be continuous are also an exaggeration. I have yet to buy a battery that lives up to these ratings. I would say a more realistic figure is around 35-40C for this battery, where it actually can maintain the voltage OK. But if you pull 39A out of it, then it will be dead within 2 minutes, and this is a consequence of it's small mAh capacity. Also, you might benefit from a LiPo-guard (I use this HK product: Voltage-Alarm), it beeps when before you reach dangerously low voltage levels, which allows you to land before you damage the battery (it is very bad for these batteries to become completely empty, this is probably why they swell on you). HTH
Is that measured on the battery connector? If so, that should really give you around 3:30 minutes before reaching 80% discharge level, provided that the motors are the only power consumers. But the camera also wants 0.5A at 12V, and the transmitter consumes up to 330mA at 5V. Maybe it isn't unreasonable that the sum of all consumers gets you down to 2:30? Did the batteries perform like this from the beginning or have you noted a negative trend?
It has always been this way, never got any decent flights out of it. A friend with identical setup except for the FPV equipment and is getting 5min flight time instead of 2:30. Very strange. Either HK has 100% efficiency difference in those **** small motors/esc or in the batteries.
What about ESC setup then? I would do the following: Remove all equipment but the ESCs and RX/control unit, then use a watt meter and experiment with the ESC setup to obtain minimum energy consumption. If you can, use lower timing and lower PWM frequency, that might save you some. Or do you and your friend have the same ESC setup too...? :-) Have you tried operation with a bare minimum of equipment, and noted the flight time then?
Hey I'm using a IMAX B6AC with the built in AC adapter, I always balance charge. I was quiet surprised to see it explode, its a pillow style battery, normally they just burst a little and catch on fire, Ive still got bits of plastic stuck to my ceiling. I'm tossing up whether the charger is responsible, though it was also the chargers 3rd charge. I'm lucky enough that the battery was charging on a granite kitchen bench and I had a fire extinguisher handy..
Hey guys and gals,
I got those batterys, they are really, really good, got 1300 mA capacity, then the voltage decreases fastly. Overall load voltage is super!
If I need batterys again I defenitly will buy Turnigy Nano-Tech 45-90C!