The Hobbyking Tuff Trainer is the ideal choice for the new RC pilot, a trainer needs to have certain qualities to be really good at the job it is intended for, so it is perhaps fortunate that supermodel good looks is not one of them, what it lacks in glamour, this model more than makes up for in performance, toughness, practicality & value for money.
The Tuff Trainer is exactly that, a combination of almost un-breakable EPP foam, band secured wing and carbon fibre spars means that, should the worse happen, this model will bounce and then bounce back for more. In the unlikely event that you do manage to break it, a little cyano glue and a few minutes patience will be all thats needed to have you grinning again.
The Hobbyking Tuff Trainer is Plug-and-Fly(PNF), so motor & ESC are pre-installed. Note that the prop mounts with a prop saver just in case you have a less than perfect landing. Good quality 8g servos are pre-installed and quality hardware tops of the list of essential must haves that are included with this kit. A trainer should be easy to fly; the combination of high angle of dihedral and high lift thick section wing make the Hobbyking Tuff Trainer a very stable, forgiving flyer, with excellent slow fly capability that does not lack the single most important factor.............FUN!
Just thought I should post up a few mods I did to my TT. I found the control surfaces all too stiff for the micro servo's as it was delivered. Three problems, first the hot knife reliefs where the surfaces pivot are too dense. The cure was to cut all "hinged" areas apart and put a good 45 degree taper on these edges, then use strapping or duct tape to make the hinges. Second was the misaligned guide tubes to the elevator and aileron. Cure was to remove the tubes, then use a metal coat hanger section to punch new holes into the fuselage, once lined up correctly the hanger was heated with a soldering gun until the foam pulled away from the hanger making a nice hard sleeve for the guide tubes which were then reinstalled and glued in place. Third was the non pivoting control rod stays at the control levers. Cure was to glue the nuts to the levers, then unscrew the stay half a turn so that it would pivot with the rod. Same thing at the servo arms for the ailerons.
If my description is too confusing to anyone I can make a video illustration, but only if someone really needs it...
It will roll and fly inverted, just make sure you have a little more throw in the surfaces as you need a lot of forward pressure to stay inverted. Listening to Dan 0 is like asking a dodo how to fly (12 year old kid by the sounds of it on his first plane). Keep in mind if you have not been flying long I would not recomend trying it.
whats your definition of gliding and I doubt you have done much 3D either (doing a roll is not 3D)......what condition is your 3D balsa plane in, does it still fly???? I guess it does not, you crash a balsa plane, game over.
Gliding is flying without a motor LOLOLOLOL :P... my 3D balsa plane is in fine condition, just a few hard landings... why are you suggesting that I'm a bad flyer? My RadJet is easily hitting 75 MPH, if no 80 or 85... and yeah I do 3D with my **** 41'' Edge all the time, now it even has a 12x6 prop on it. Somehow I doubt that you've flown much and are just jealous! Chill! LOL!
Then you'll have to take a look at the programming manual for the ESC and use the radio's throttle and listen to about 1000 beeps LOL. I don't have my Tuff Trainer anymore so I don't know what the ESC's programming functions are. Best to look in the manual or maybe try to search it.
Using brakes is for gliders with retractable props. Using brakes on an ordinary plane will cause more wind resistance and marginally slow the plane down and have minor adverse effect on flight depending where the prop stops. It's far better to allow the prop to windmill freely
Waterlogger it is actually marginally better to have the prop stopped even on a fixed prop plane but for this plane it will not really mater. For future reference all props have a wind shadow whether they are spinning or not. A stopped prop has a very thin profile but as soon as it starts moving the shadow becomes a circle. This is how model autogyros work. Obviously the slower it spins the less drag it produces but a free spinning prop will always have the aerodynamic drag (equal to a stopped prop) plus the wind shadow and therefore have greater drag than a stopped prop.
Wind shadow is a sailing term but I believe the actual term is parasitic drag. The easiest way to find the wind shadow is take a picture of the plane from where the flow of air is coming from and shade out any part of the plane you can see and for any constantly moving parts shade out every possible position. What you have left is the wind shadow of the plane and this represent the minimum possible drag if the body is 100% aerodynamically efficient. So basically the fatter the body, the worse the minimum drag would be.
I can understand going to this trouble if flying a competition Glider etc. But a small trainer which isn't really aerodynamic to begin with is possibly going a little too far don't you think? Thanks for the info though and even though I did a lot of sailing as a naval cadet and again in the Navy I never heard that term. I even raced 16 foot skiffs in Sydney. Maybe it's a term used by the pro racers. It's a shame there's no such thing as 100% aerodynamically efficient planes. Think of the fuel saving. Just one push and fly all day, great. Then again we'd have to introduce inefficiency just to turn the plane. There goes that theory.
To get back to Alex's question. That listening for beeps tends to get confusing at times. It's easy to lose your place. That's why I use Turnigy Plush ESCs. One small card worth a few dollars is plugged in and you can do all your programming using LEDs. Much simpler. Unfortunately most ESCs supplied with a plane is a no name brand and programming cards aren't available. But if you buy any ESCs make sure you can use a card on them. it's so much quicker and easier.
What Size are the O rings for the prop saver? If anyone wants to know knocked it TWICE out of trees and still flies it is a TUFF TRAINER. If you are beginner or training put servos outsde fuseludge to stop binding
Good question. There are a lot of ways to do this. Simplest is a y harness but best is to mix channel one and channel 6. If you go to the Turnigy listing then there are a lot of helps under files, on mixing. Also Youtubes has videos. If all else fails let me know and I will take you through it.
Could be a week, 2 weeks, a month or two months. Nobody can ever give you a real date of when it'll be in stock. I would say that it should be in sooner than later because it's been out forever. 2-3 weeks maybe? Hopefully! Happy flying!
The model in the review is an old one. The current Tuff trainer has got ailerons, battery hatch etc. And yes it is EPP foam, very durable and easy to repair. I´*ve fitted bigger ~60mm wheels, the default wheels are very tiny and get stuck easily. I´*ve also painted it and fixed a landing light to it! The tail section needs to be stretched a bit to the left, because the fuselage wasn´*t really straight and it kept turning right quite heavily..
Still very good and recommended to any beginners!
Personally, I would say go with something like the AXN or Bixler. This plane... is great, but it has a difficult building process for a beginner. I built this as an intermediate builder having some experience already but still had some trouble, as the directions were mostly just pictures. I had to take off a few parts that I had glued on because parts when on before that and there were problems with some of the servo control rods. The ailerons and servos simply don't go well together and refuse to turn the plane much, or go into a "death spiral" into trees like mine did. It's a good plane but lacks the quality of something like the AXN or Bixler. It has problems (some fatal) and would be difficult for a beginner to set up really good in my opinion.
Very easy to build, Have a look a Dan O's review below and you will understand why he had trouble (issue is Dan o, not the plane). If you have never flown before go for this plane, just turn the Ailerons off untill you get some skills (connect but don't use them). Atleast with this thing you can crash it many more times and have far less repairs than a bixler due to the type of foam. The bixler is a little easier to fly but will disintegrate on a decent nose dive into the ground. At least with this thing you wings will just pop off and mush the nose a little. Don't use hot glue to repair, go for CA or some epoxy and use it very sparingly.
Hi im looking for a motor for this plane i crashed mine and my motor is vibrating now i dont expect it to live long so i need a replacement, i searched on hobbyking but couldnt find the exact motor. Can some please help and give me the product id plsw
My motor was vibrating crazily too at one point. What you have to do is unscrew it from the plane, check to make sure all the screws are tight on the mount and then that the screws that hold the mount to the plane are tight, also. I put lots of hot glue on the motor mount (the wooden one) and balanced the propeller and all vibration was gone. Use lots of glue and tighten the screws hard and you'll have no problem. Add some tape to your prop to make it balanced on both sides and you're good. This worked perfectly for me, so it should for you, too.
We use this plane as club trainer. Any 80-100W motor will do. Original motor too powerful and heavy. I use 80W potensky with 500mAh 3s lipo and she flies a lot better with little less weight. Also we have increased v-angle on the wing to improve stability.
I doubt it. I used a Turnigy 3S 30C Li-Po pack and it was quite snug in there, any bigger and it wouldn't have fit unless mounted awkwardly with Velcro on the outside like I did with a 2200 mAH pack. :D But, you have to be careful not to screw up the CG if you Velcro it on the bottom of the fuselage. In conclusion, a 1300 mAH 3S pack won't fit in the ORIGINAL battery hole, but can be used with the Tuff Trainer with a small modification. :) -Dan
does anybody know where i can get a set of landing gear for this at?or a little bigger tire's would be ok, i have a at-6 i am going to put some of these on that lol! if anybody has any idea's let me know thanks,these one's here work good some alittle bit bigger tire's and a tail also,thanks!
Celine I hope this has helped but I am a bit simpler. A Y harness is a lead that you can plug in between the servos and the receiver. Two servos into one receiver port. CA glue is just supper glue. You can buy a foam safe one (the normal one will melt foam). 4CH Radio is saying it requires a 4 channel RC system. A system has a Transmitter (Tx) a receiver (Rx) and 4 to 6 servos. A channel is the control of the servo or servos. I hope this helps
lol, love the comments about slope soaring, not sure you would know how to slope soar in the first place considering the condition of that plane (crashed many many times) let alone the amount of drag on this plane. Add this with your complaint about having adjustable server connectors and calling the motor mouunt plastic because it was not ferric (it is alloy mount so it won't be attracted to a magnet) the video was good for a laugh. Hope it has lasted long enough to teach you how to fly.
Yes it is a good size parkflyer but it can handle no wind. To be honest I was not real happy with mine a little under powered. but it is tough I have broken mine BAD!! trying to fly around my house that has way too many tree's little hot glue and it is as good as new. If you like my response please reward me Thank You.
The large diehedral makes the ailerons ineffective. I disconnected and removed the aileron servos and fixed the ailerons in place with toothpicks glued along the T/E. I fly the model with rudder / elevator only and it's much better. (Connect the rudder servo to the aileron channel.) I also relocated the U/C forward, into the front of the battery well. What you get, is an 'old-timer' style model that virtually flies (and lands) itself.
I'd also like to say that Flite Test did something wrong... first of all, you don't need to take off the wing to get to the battery compartment, and the front weight is supposed to come from where the battery is supposed to go, not the RX. Flite Test put the RX where the battery was supposed to go, and the battery where the RX is supposed to go. It balances perfectly without any additional weight if you put the battery in the right spot.
Oh... and the ESC comes with JST connectors, not Deans or XT60. If you want to solder on new connectors like I did (Deans), you will have to remove the motor to plug the ESC wires back in, as they are very short.
Dan 0, you need to pay more attention to their video mate. The one that had in the Flitetest video was a "pre-release" version, there was no ailerons on theirs and there was no compartment under the nose as there is in this model, I guess you comments go well with your video review.....
Hi, the palne ship with a prop saver and o-ring, but if you need to repalce any of them the prop saver is a 3mm and the o-ring is a 18mm o-ring( the inner diameter is 15mm). Here are the stock codes o-rings : 18-00301x10 and the prop saver: OR019-00501-3 I use these prop savers, because you get 10 pairs so if you lose any their is still a lot spare
la prop it's livred with hobby king formateur
please add my reponse for win 20 cent thx
1 thumbs up!
Perfect plane for beginners! Just one little mod: separate two wing halves and glue it together again on a flat surface, to eliminate V-shape of wings and reinforce it with 1.8-2.5 mm solid carbon rod. It makes this plane more resistant to wind and much much more predictable. Recomended this mod for everyone, especially beginners!
Attn 2 HK. Wing reinforcements are too weak! It's good idea to change it to СF or just not to glue it in. And same about V-shape. It's much easier to glue wing halves as desired with no need to separate it first. Just pay a lil more attn to this plane. With minor mods, it's gonna be the world best EPP trainer for years to come.
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1 thumbs up!
OK bought this as mine and my sons first trainer. Went together easily even for us newbies. Looked great on the dining room table. We both have never flown but have spent alot of time with 2 different simulators. Took this out on a slightly windy day (I know Bad Idea) thought the wind was causing it to not fly well after each of us nosed it into the ground. No problem if you have CA glue. Next flight out was much better but we both ended up into the ground a couple times. now the glue is also being supported by gorilla tape as the nose has completely torn off. each flight ended badly as we learned this plane rolls badly in turns and it is very hard to recover. In the end we had to cut the wings apart and re glue with less angle this took care of the rolling out of turns and she flies pretty good now. Although with all the tape it is pretty ugly. Also unless you are taking off on pavement you need larger wheels. It has proven to be an OK trainer for the money but not as tough as I hoped. I would not recommend this unless you have an experienced pilot to help you sort it out first.
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1 thumbs up!
My initial thoughts on this were good, but have lowered slightly. I havnt like others had to replace any servos, but the rear pushrods were way out of line. The rubber bands holding the wing down seem to deform the rear of the wing and it needs reinforced. this might be reason its needs major trim adjustment on the ailerons, which in turn makes on turn nicely one way. My friend bought a yellow cub, and although $40 more, its a much much better plane/trainer I believe
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i have no idea what was done with this plane on the other reviews but I can say with a little bit of work this is a excellent training plane. Push rod needs a bit of work as the rod sleeve needed to be pushed outward a bit as it was a little bit tight but after doing that was a great little plane. Just set your exponentials and off you go. It was so stable that you could off pointed in one direction and it kept going without any problems. Maby I might be a lucky one but I can say this is a plane for a beginner! In saying that if you have never flown before a instructor would be needed or if you are daring enough to take it on yourself well after a few crashes you should be on your way ( best launching it by hand) I would recommend this model to all begginers and it is almost unbreakable but can take a good beating. This is my opinion and hope that it may give some perspective on the model. Some may not like it but I would recommend it.
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I watched the video review and thought this would be a good trainer. i have been flying a delta i built with blue core and now i wanted something with wheels to practice landing on runway at our club. This thing is wackey, even one of our veteran flyers had a hard time even getting it off the ground. I've hot glued the nose on twice from the plane suddenly going into a uncontroled nose dive from 60ft up. As others mentioned the rudder and elevator servos are under too much stress from the poorly ran rods. I replace those servos with HXT900, they work much better. I think I may have this thing flyable now, I HOPE!!