Alloy Bearing Block for HK-450

 foster 366 points

****

 Peach 2 points

Hi i fitted these in my HK 450 and the mail shaft is now super smooth,i agree that they should have replacement thrust bearings available,if for some reason the bearings should fail i will replace it with the whole kit if needed,great upgrade.Thanks HK

 jaames74 28 points

have a look www.link www.link

 kevmore 44 points

It still won't work because all the races are the same diameter. I don't have two that are 10.8 and two that are 11, they are all 11 mm so they won't turn properly in the bearing block. Also, once together the main shaft is off by a degree or more so the main gear is way off. Can not use blocks!!!

 raindancer 8 points

The drawing shows an incorrect assembly order.
In order for the thrust bearing to bear the thrust-load, the radial bearings must be fitted into housings first, and then the thrust bearing stack (as shown in the diagram). The assembly is similar to that deployed in the alloy blade holders.

One of the bearing housings has an interference fit, which appears to be intentional, use this bearing housing in the lower position.

Radial Bearings: Use mandrill from a one-way bearing fitting/extraction tool, in conduction with G cramp to gently press the radial bearing into the bearing-housing.

Thrust Bearing: The two race-halves are different one had larger outer diameter, larger inner diameter and thinner* the other has smaller outer diameter, smaller inner diameter and is thicker.
Fit the one with the race with the larger outer diameter nearest to the radial bearing, the larger inner diameter provides running clearance between it and the main shaft.

The half with the smaller outer diameter provides running clearance between it and the blade holder.


Brass Washers:
place one of these between the top side of the upper thrust bearing and the lock ring, place the other under the lower thrust bearing and the shaft ring/one-way clutch-bearing.

 Colt1873 167 points

If you got the same diameter thrust halves, just use an exacto knife and lightly cut the housing so the thrust plate outer half will turn with the main shaft. Also make certain that the inner thrust plate does not fit snug to the shaft as it will try to spin with the shaft and soon bind up inside the mounting blocks. As far as alignment, trim a little off the tit that holds the blocks in place on the frame with an exacto knife, or even open the mounting holesa in the frame just a small amount,

 victorn 10 points

I would think you'd want a washer between the thrust bearing and the radial bearing. Maybe something like this from heli-world, #CNM5X7FW.

 Klaus Lange 406 points

The bearings in the drawing have to be changed. The thrust bearing has to take the forces in direction of the main axis. Therefore, the trust bearing has to sit in the outer position. The ball bearing is than only used to center the axis. By the way, its the same in rotor heads with thrust bearings: the thrust bearings is mounted near to blade holder screws to take the axial forces.

 dmulligan 110 points

The bearing blocks also came with a small pair of brass washers/races. Where do they go?

 victorn 10 points

I would put one between the thrust bearing and the radial bearing. You want the axial load from the thrust bearing to go through the inner race of the radial bearing.

 H-KING_SCOTT 5237 points

This is a non issue and that image doesnt show a problem at all. The bearing block is tight by design. After 20 seconds of run in the bearing spins freely, there is no binding.

 multifly 10 points

The bearing block is not supposed to be tight on the outer thrust bearing races. The outer thrust bearing race is supposed to turn freely insided the bearing block. If the bearing block is too tight, the thrust bearing race will scrub against the alloy bearing block and either get hot and lock up or distribute metal particles inside the bearing. Neither is acceptable. The main shaft bearings prevent side to side movement (proper gear alignment) of the shaft while allowing friction free rotation. The thrust bearings absorb vertical forces (positive and negative pitch changes in the rotor head) and protect the main shaft bearings from these loads. The outer thrust bearing races MUST turn freely in order to work properly. If the bearing block is tight against the outer thrust bearing race, the block is defective and should be replaced. Also, the drawing is incorrect. The thrust bearings are supposed to be on the outside of the shaft bearings. My thrust bearing races are all identical in size, both I.D. and O.D.

 kiwi4 199 points

You need to install a thin washer between the radial and thrust bearings, one that fits on the outside of the the radial bearing,not the inside.The point of this mod is to transmit the thrust load to blade grip not the radial bearing,these types of bearings are not made to take a side load.The washer makes it so the inner and outer racees of the radial bearing dont hit on the the flat side of the thrust washer,and cause them to drag.

 raindancer 8 points

This drawing is wrong, the radial bearing must be fitted into the bearing housing first (interference-fit), followed by the brass spacer shim, and then the thrust bearing race with the larger outer diameter, followed by the ball cage, then the thrust bearing race with the smaller internal diameter. Thus, when these bearing assemblies are fitted into the main frame: i) top bearing assembly:… the thrust-bearing outer race faces up directly under the lock-ring* and ii) bottom bearing assembly:…

 BoltFace 303 points

they look good yes, I ordered too. but how can you review it and give it 5 stars before you even receive it? I would wait to see before giving a valid review.

 pastoreli 232 points

It was not to be in the Review. I can't edit or delete that review. :(

 po_au 641 points

or hot pink. :D

 Burnaby 529 points

3 cheers for hot pink. Look nice next to the Cessna 182.

 Bjorn Friberg 217 points

The bearing block is now blue, as per okt 2009

 emthered 202 points

Because this part (and the idle pulley - the other red upgrade) are produced by a different manufacturer - Ele RC.