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Yes this motor is an outrunner, and no i have not come across the use of innrunner motors in helicopters, i personally have found outrunners to have more torque than innrunners , but innrunners will rev higher as there rotating mass is narrower.
You need some p0lymax 3.5mm bullet connectors. You can buy them www.link forget heat shrink either. And remember Motor = male, so put the male ends on the motor and female ends on the ESC
My shaft on this motor is 3mm, NOT 3.17mm. The shaft sheared off below the pinion. Luckily, I had a 3mm shaft from another project and replaced it. I will move this motor over to a 250 later. If it was supposed to be 3.17mm, quality control needs a some work!
Thanks all for helping but i think i found the problem i seemed to have used the wrong size screw and it has hit the wires in the motor i have tried the esc on another motor anit works fine but when i put the motor on another esc it still doesnt work so i have purchased a new motor once again thanks all for your help
Hi can anyone help me with a problem i purchased this motor wit a turnigy 30 amp esc and it was working just fine after i set it up now the motor seems confused as it wont run correctly it starts up abit and then dies out an runs forward backward seems a bit strange please help
remove shrink tubing from all three bullet connectors on motor wires.let wires cool.install new shrink tubing on wires. re-solder bullet connectors to wires.let cool. slide shrink tubing onto bullets and add heat.let cool.if this does not work ,repeat procedure for motor connector repair to all three esc bullet connectors on motor end of esc.let cool. if this does not work and motor turns in proper direction for your application , re-program the esc to a timing setting other that what it is set on currently. hope this helps,it sure cured a few problems i have had.have fun!
hello BuzzinAround,hope I can help you out,all out runners are built pretty much the same the stationary bit mounting side for helis and e.d.f's also where you would mount the x mount for prop drives contains the stator wich has copper windings and a bearing on either end the bearing on the bell side is inside under the bell so you can't see it.The bell has the magnets inside on the rounded flat spot and the bell is what rotates.you can usualy reverse the shaft so it sticks out the bell side and mount your prop adapter on the shaft.Are you going to use prop?
Hi all, I am new to this RC stuff.
Just bought this motor for my HK 450 Pro V2 as there were quite a few recommendations for it.
When I received it though I was surprised that the whole body is the bit that rotates, and its only the base where you secure the screws is the stationary bit. I was expecting something more like a standard brushed motor where the whole body is rigid, and the rotor is inside the body. I quickly assumed that the rotating exterior body is how brush-less motors work - is that right?
That all said, the bearing(s) and mount(s) need to be fairly serious to support the whole body rotating. I am assuming there must be one or two bearing near the base only (i.e. at one end) as I see no way of having bearings at the other end.
I guess this approach is much better for cooling than what a standard brushed motor would have. Is that the reason for this design?
Any insight to this is appreciated for this newbie.
Thanks
Hi Buzzin, that's call a brushless outrunner, and you're right, it's more effective to cold the motor. On the other hand you Will find brushless inrunner (looks more like a conventionnal brush motor) for car application because it's less sensitive to dust and dirt. So you got the perfect motor for you're app.
Hope help
I have one with either a 11t or 13 t pinon (Cant remember) and i run on a 55 amp esc. I tried a 30 amp but it was too hot after even a quick spool up. I have a 40 amp esc that should be sufficient i think.
Flybar or FBL? For FBL, use the CX-3X1000. Even for flybar, you can use it too, buy once, so that next time when you upgrade to FBL, you can continue to use the same gyro. Hobbyking doesn't sell them though. Otherwise, get the HK401B gyro from Hobbyking. Just search HK401B.
I've just posted this reply under andreas13
"I have used a CDROM shaft and fitted the 3.7mm pinion back on by making a shim from an alloy pie case rapping that around the shaft with no over-lap. I also use CDROM shafts for making tail-rotor shafts too."
But my name has not been added.
can i ask you how did you fit the tail gear to the CDROM shaft, i have used DVD shafts as tail shafts befor but the shaft was slipping inside the gear when making piros, i used shims but was not able to make it tight enough.
Hi Kemo1988
There are three ways to fix the synchromesh drive pinion to the shaft.
If you look at the pinion used on Walkeras, some have a D shaped internal which engages on the flat ground onto the shaft,
then fix to shaft using either red thread lock or green bearing fit*
or fit a shaft collar onto the shaft, of the outside of the tail box*
or use a small pin through the shaft and that engages in a slot at one end of the pinion.
Hey i just mounted this on my Assassin and wondering if anyone has run a prop on it... if so what size/ what power consumption are u getting... building now so ASAP reply would be awesome.
I purchased Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2218H Heli Motor 3450kv, good powerful motor for the helicopters of 450 class, there is not a vibration of not heating works softly and good price. I am high pleased, to buy a misfortune yet.
I have this motor mounted in a HK450pro, coupled with a Turnigy Dlux 55 amp ESC, it works fine, but at the end of each flight the motor is very very hot to the touch, I am just starting myself in heli flying, most of my flight time is hover with some translations.
Hi, most probably your gearing is wrong. Use 13 or max 15 teeth on on the motor, and do not mount the pinions too tight. There should be a minimal gap between the teeth to minimize friction. ( It can reduce 20 pcnt of power if the gearing does not work properly) You will feel the difference by turning your rotorhead by hand.
You can get the most from your setup by purchasing a watt meter and an Optical Tachometer. Using them in line with gearing your motor to rotor head speed of 1800 RPM's at 80pcnt throttle with the lowest amp usage. This will give you governing room to increase rotor head speed in tricks (later down road) also expand flight time along with lowering stress (heat) on both ESC and Motor.
I purchased Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2218H Heli Motor 3450kv, good powerful motor for the helicopters of 450 class, there is not a vibration of not heating works softly and good price. I am high pleased, to buy a misfortune yet.
Click on Hardware & accessories, then click on Screws/bolts/nuts and look for "spring washers" I don't know what size, I used 3mm, but hobbyking doesn't list them in millimeters. They compress when you tighten nut, and don't let nut vibrate loose.
I replaced snapped shafts in 2 of these motors with a Beam E4 Advance (heli) feathering shaft. Same diameter, perfect length. I needed to file a small flat on one end to take the grub screw, and fit a piece of brass tube between the bearing and pinion or prop adapter, to make up for the missing circlip. Otherwise, reverse the shaft, so the prop pushes (or pulls) the rotor onto the bearing. I've done it both ways. I just used the feathering shaft because thats what I had hanging around, and didn't see spares available. It's a cool motor for a funjet, BTW. FWIW,YMMV,IMHO, etc
With 15T you'll get headspeed over 3800rpm that really really high, and that may put too much load on your ESC on the motor itself. I'd use a 13T at most.
cdroom shaft it have 3mm diameters it same with the bearing for this motor, but you cannot use with the pinnion gear hole 3.17mm , you need replace pinion gear 3mm hole, if you use for heli 450
I have used a CDROM shaft and fitted the 3.7mm pinion back on by making a shim from an alloy pie case rapping that around the shaft with no over-lap. I also use CDROM shafts for making tail-rotor shafts too.
It's only rated for 4s, but there are some who claim that, so long as you limit the current draw and keep the revs below 40k, you can run a motor on higher voltage. On 6s, 3450kv would be too much, though - I don't think you can get less than a 10t pinion.
NO NO NO NO NO NO Do not run this at 6s nor at 4s. This motor is 3s only with 11-13t pinion. for 6s the turnigy 1800kv would be the right choice for 4s the turnigy 2500kv is perfect i know because i have the 2500kv on a 480 heli.
What up people. Concerning the specs for this motor - 6 Poles and really being a 3700kv motor. I want to run "set RPM" gov mode on my CC 50 in a HK450TT Pro v2 FBL - Main Drive Gear: 150T 13T Pinion. Does anyone have input on the three RPM's I should run? Maybe 2600/2800/3000 ? Thanks
Hi I bought this motor and I tested it without attaching it to anything and worked beautifully. I just finished building my first rc project an hk 450 helicopter and went to put the motor. Fits well but would not spin fast like a heli. It also was giving sparks and stuttering. It spins but have no idea what is going on. I have two theories whether it is because I over geared it or if the kv is to high and torque is to low.
Thanks
It is not over geared because I completely took the motor out and it still did the same. I do not see what the solder connection would do, all I know is that it is giving electricity but if you want me to chech something out that is not a problem. I am afraid that I ruined the motor earlier because my last esc had a small fire and a bunch of sparks because I accidentally used a 20 amp esc without noticing it required a 40 and now I am using a 50 amp hk esc.
Check the length of your motor mount bolts. If too long they will short against windings when motor spins.
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
EatAtJoes
683 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
40 thumbs up!
This motor is by far the strongest I have put in a 450 heli. Again like the 2215H review I found the KV is understated and is 3600kv. The hovering amps are 18A And Peaks are 40 Amps Graph can be found at RCGROUPS . COM look for my name. This motor shows no signs of bogging down at 12deg pitch pumps, but you pay the price in battery drain. EXTREMELY STRONG! but the 2215H is far better suited see my blog with video here at HK Hobby Blog EatAtJoes
6 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
alouetteIII
1503 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
19 thumbs up!
I am Running this outrunner in the stock GWS 74mm EDF, using 4S3000Mah LiPo, this motor is very well made and can really deliver the goods. Full 880W and runs cool to warm. The rear alloy cooling fins can be removed,flipped over to match the direction of rotation of the EDF to extract air centrifugally. Wires are a nice silicon type. Highly recommend for 4S jets. Shaft is 3.17mm.
So far the best motor for 450 size heli from HobbyCity. Recomend 13 teeth pinion.
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
vasy1
390 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
4 thumbs up!
Good motor in a small packag. Seems to be well balanced. A little hot in a 70mm fan, but will see how long it will last with out overheating and smoking.
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