Dimension: 36mm x 51mm, 70mm(with shaft) Weight: 181g (kv1450) (not including connectors) Diameter of shaft:?strong>F5mm Length of front shaft:?strong>F19.1mm Lamination thickness: .2mm Magnet type: 45SH
Plane was not going as fast as RC Foamfighters plane was going, in fact hard to get over 80 mph, did a kv test and found motor is actually 600 kv, the can says 1450 but motor 600
they se*l a 600 kv version of this motor above
explains the slow speed
wounder if they will make it right
I am going to use this motor on a funjet. I had a funjet before with this motor. I used 6S and a 5.5x5.5 with 55-60A. I wonder if the 5S setup with 7x6 is may be better. Did anybody try BOTH combination? Which one is better in terms of speed and efficiency?
I use it with 4s and 9x6 prop with 65A esc on 1,85m hotliner. Straight vertical till the end of sight. Motor, esc and battery are cool after 10-15 climbs. Current draw is more than 60A, but those relatively short bursts motor can handle with absolutely no problem. If you are using smaller folding props, you have to be very carefull, all carbon cam props are limited to 16000 rpm! I also recommend using low timing!
What is the optimum setup for this motor. I am a Noob, but have built and flown about 50 planes in the last eight months. I'm getting bored with sub 80mph planes and want to build an FF Aurora or peregrine. I was considering a 2200mAh 4S 40C battery and a 100A esc. Would this get me to 100mph?
Hi, I am making the FF-Peregrine design(rcfoamfighters****)
This engine(3648-1450kv)is the one everyone seems to be using.
do you have a full combo I can buy i.e motor, esc,prop,batt pack?
If not can you please list the parts that would suit this motor best.
Depending on which ESC you use, on 5s and 6s it runs best with timing set to High or 26 to 30 degrees and PWM at 16kHz. If you are running 3s or 4s you can probably get a way with the timing set to medium around 15 degrees and PWM at 8kHz. This motor has 10 poles so set it per your esc manual for a high pole motor
Check out this video from RCFoamfighters... www.link can take quite a bit... I have the same set up in my scratch built Fun Jet but still waiting to get it up in the air again. I need a new battery first. I had it flying on a Super Mega Jet on a 3 cell and it made it to 100 mph.
You can run this motor in short bursts to 90-100A, but be careful! I have my own design plan which does 180 MPH with 6S and a 5.9x9 prop. Current is ~90A in flight, and when used in short bursts the motor comes down warm.
Check the temperature of your motor on landing - is it hot to touch? If so I'd expect it not to last too long.
Not that it's any of your business and you had nothing to do with this question. In fact you haven't a clue what's going on. So I would ask you to not make smart comments when you don't know the facts. But just to prove you're not as clever as you seem to think, YES this ID was crediting himself. How, I won't go into but I will add that he was partly responsible for the 20 cent credit being dropped. OK, now kindly stop mking comments regarding me. Thank you.
waterlogged....as a member of this site, the credit system IS MY BUSINESS and is EVERY OTHER MEMBERS BUSINESS. yes, i am well aware of kellyann. everybody is. only a moron doesn't know what he did. u cannot credit yourself with THE SAME ID so u r obviously not as clever as u think u r. YOU also had nothing to do with this question . did u answer it? NO! i have just as many rights as u to answer whatever questions on this site as i please. now why dont u stop telling other members what to do and STFU
Would you mind writing in English please. There is no need for stupid SMS type abbreviations to be used. This is a forum, not a mobile phone. Obviously you refer to yourself as a moron because you don't appear to know what was happening. Kellyann was indeed crediting himself. Using a little intelligence you may understand. Kellyann registered himself under a number of false names. Those false IDs are therefore considered to be Kellyann because he wrote the question using one of those false IDs and then, using his kellyann ID he answered the question. The false ID aking the question then credited the Kellyann ID. Obviously that would mean that he credited himself. Nobody else was involved were they? You appear to have far too much time on your hands attempting to take me to task on what I post. Maybe you would spend your time more wisely by reading what is posted a few times before making comments attempting to make you appear superior. Because at the moment you're looking rather foolish. Maybe finding someone with equivalent intelligence level to pick on may help. It appears you are way out of your league at the moment. You're becoming a Troll and not a very good one either.
Actually it could be normal if the ESC was faulty, or you were running too large a prop or maybe running the motor flat out for long periods, or your prop is way out of balance, lack of air flow past the motor or the motor's shaft being out of balance, faulty windings. It maybe a combination of any of these that could cause a motor to overheat. You say you're running low voltage. With a 5s fully charged you could be using 21 volts. Id hardly call that "low volts" also how did you get the reading of 30 amps? Up to 21 volts at 30 amps, flat out would tend to warm a motor up but not burn it out unless one of the above is involved.
since when is a faulty esc considered normal? by definition, something that is faulty cannot be considered normal. "faulty" is an abnormal state. f something isnt supposed to run, then when it doesnt run, it is acting normal and working perfectly as it was designed to and therefore NOT faulty. faulty and normal are contradictory terms and something cannot be both at the same time
Smart A, I never said a faulty ESC was normal, but the P3K33 asked if it was normal for a motor to get hot. I answered that "Yes it could be normal if the ESC was faulty" Absolutely nothing wrong with that statement and is perfectly understandable to a person with the mental ability to understand English. As it would also be considered normal should a car's cooling system boil if the thermostat was faulty or perfectly normal for a plane to crash should it's wings fall off. Instead of going off like an idiot you should spend a little time and brain matter trying to understand what is being said prior to the schoolboy attitude. Life is full of contradictions. "Normal" people with reasonable intelligence would understand that. Actually I have a box with roughly 15 ESCs in it. Every one of them is damaged. Therefore it's perfectly normal for any ESC within that box to be faulty.
you can get water cooled motor mounts that might help you out. Christian is right not really a boat motor but since you already have it its worth a try. Just watch your prop size and monitor your temps
I would advise a new inrunner with a water jacket for cooling. The interior of a boat is supposed to be watertight therefore it's airtight as well so there is no air circulating to keep things cool. You could buy a motor mount with a cooler built in but this only keeps the front of the motor cool. You may get away with it if you don't push it too hard. I'd certainly go for an inrunner to be sure. I assume you are running a cooler for your ESC. That's just as important.
what kind of esc can i use with this motor? i ordered a hobbyking ss 190-200amp esc but it arrived with only four programable options and i was not able to change timing and pwm and i already burned one, could this motor run with a red brick esc? those red brick are cheap but can they be programmed? is there a programing card for those red brick?
I have this setup in my Funjet running 6s with 7x5 prop and I have the Turnigy dlux 100A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller w/Data Logging ESC. Also I would suggest an AMP meter to test how many amps your system is running to be sure you are not putting too much on the ESC. I design my power systems for 1.5xconstant amps I will draw. Ex: system that requires 80Amps constant will need a 120Amp ESC. This way on burst current you still will not overload the ESC. Hope this helps!
It's the amp consumption of the motor that will dictates your flight time. Higher amp consumed(more power on the throttle)less flight time, less amp consumed(less power on the throttle)longer flight time.If you are planning to use higher voltage lipo's 3s,4s or 5s You must change prop size.I use 5s 2200mah 40c lipo's and my prop size is 7x4 flight time around 5min.with throttle control.
for the same amount of amps, the higher the voltage the power it consumes therefor a shorter runtime. a 2s setup for example is 7.4v x 50amps = 370watts. a 3s example for the same amps is 11.1v x 50a = 555watts. naturally 555watts will drain a batt much faster than 370watts on the same capacity batt
I run it on 6S, but 7x5 propeler max. It pull oround 110A in peak, then amps drop around 90A. You must heve good cooling. I tested graupner speed prop 6,5x6,5. It pull 70A, but battery was on low. I testet again.
This Motor is a Beast!! Hit 146mph in FunJet with APC 7x6 Sport Prop, HobbyKing 90/100amp esc and Zippy Flightmax 2200mAh 40c 5s1p LiPo Battery. Watt Meter Static test 92amps@1597watts!!! No issues so far. Will definitely get more when they are back in stock!! Thanks HK for the Awesome Deals!!!
22 comments. Reply..
9 thumbs up!
In 1,5m MBL hotliner part 3
with 6s 2500 30c agp 5,5x5,5 cam speed, 20.2V,50A,36.500rpm 6x6 cam speed prop, 20V,65A, 36.000rpm speeds over 300km/h and more.
Very very good,beter from everthing i have with triple and more price. Note:the motor is 1800kv at 20volt. Six stars.
massive motor! runs smooth on 12x6 on 3S and 4S with a lot of power. gonna use it in my 170cm hotliner for vertical climbing (very light). big stator. mabe a good engine for better magnets and better rewinding. magnets are glued crooked, but works fine.