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FINISH-CURE 20 min. epoxy is an excellent, low odor substitute for polyester resins. It can be used for applying fiberglass cloth to wood or by itself to give wood a surface ready for primer and paint. FINISH-CURE can be sanded the easiest of all our epoxies and is excellent for the sheeting of foam core wings. Allow 8 hours for full curing. For best results, FINISH-CURE should be heated to a temperature above 85 degrees F or applying light weight fiberglass, lay cloth on balsa first, then brush on FINISH-CURE. When fully saturated, go over the surface with a heat gun, and then squeegee off excess epoxy with a playing card from an old deck. Heat and remove excess several times for a light weight finish. If room temperature is below 70 degrees F use a heat gun on the surface several times for the next 2 hours. When dry, lightly sand, then fill surface with a low weight spakeling compound, scrapping off excess with a playing card. Sand to a smooth finish ready for primer. For heavy weight fiberglass, apply the epoxy before and after laying down the cloth. FINISH-CURE is best mixed in a disposable cup.
You can only get a glossy finish if you laminate onto something smooth like a sheet of glass or a finished mould preferably being held in place with a vacuum system. The surface not against the mould is almost impossible to get glossy smooth. As with most things in life you have to try it to see the difficulties. Good luck.
Hi, Can I use it with that - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10905__Gl ass_Fiber_Cloth_450x1000mm_18g_m2_Super_Thin_.html ?
If yes - HOW? I didnt work with epoxy...
Yep it is perfect for that - what you do is cut that cloth so it is slightly (around 2cm) bigger all round than the side you are trying to cover then hold over the surface and brush the resin through the cloth onto the surface - starting from the centre working out. The cloth can go round a reasonable compound but if it won't sit flat cut it and fill any gaps with extra cloth - once the cloth all has epoxy to the surface run a roll of toilet paper over the surface to remove excess epoxy. Once dr
would this stick to paint ? water based i want to strenghen some car bodies with carbon cloth or fibre i have both but are wondering how it will go im thinking it will destroy the paint any ideas ? thx in advance
This is unlikely to destroy the paint however the adhesion is likely to be ***r unless you abrade the paint finish, and then the adhesion will only be as good as the paint is clinging on. You should remove the paint finish first. Good stuff otherwise.
Depends on the paint - generally not the best idea as it will pull the paint off the surface rather than adding strength - definately best to remove paint first.
just use massive amounts of paint at the corners or wherever u plan on using it and when the paint dries it will fillet the corner.....voila, no problems with epoxy not sticking to te paint....even if ur using spray paint, spray it into a container or something and then use a paint brush, eye dropper, ca applicator or even a toot pick.....u might have to use many coats and the drying time will be long, but the finished propuct will blend in perfectly
yea its going on rc car bodies sprayed internally lexan bodies so yea i think ile go with what sfactors saying thats what i was thinking went and got a hairdryer ile just do a heap of coats going to try it soon thx peoples
Can it be used as glue? Anyone tried gluing Depron/EPS foam to foam & Plywood? How does it bond?
If answer of above question is yes, answer one more...
How much of foamy model does it last for? I mean do I need to buy one more to finish my 48" WS scratchbuilt J3 Cub with very simple construction? Or 4.5oz will be enough?
Sorry if the question seems stupid. I have never worked with epoxies.
Thanks.
This will work great on EPO Wood, it bonds very strong and with clear color, just remenber that you need to wait around 20min for the epoxy to cure, if you are joining parts make sure to hold them in place with tape until the epoxy dries.
This is very runny when mixed for use and will drain out of joints before it cures. I would suggest that the 30 minute adhesive version would be better for your application. 4.5ozs is a lot of weight to carry around in one foamy airframe. One pack should do 4 airframes if the joints are tight and you use it sparingly.
It is too thick to spray. One part is nearly as thick as regular 5 minute epoxy and the other is much thinner. You can thin any epoxy with industrial alcohol but you may lose strength. At these prices you afford to experiment.
Sally yes it is Foam safe. If you look below you are not the first to ask that. This is in the listing "excellent for the sheeting of foam core wings."" I hope this helps.
Yes. I have been doing that to internally strengthen a fuselage around the undercarriage mounting area of a foamie. I have found the thin fibreglass material sold by HobbyKing to be very suitable for the job. No evidence of any ill effects to the foam. I have no experience of using a vacuum bag - I just go old school, trying to keep the resin as thin as possible.
For that price really good glue. Glue almoust all kind of materials!
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This works so well! The viscosity is fairly low which makes it so easy to apply onto fiberglass cloths, without having much excess epoxy. The hobby shops close to me sell "GreatPlanes" epoxy, the HK ones completely trump those in comparison! Easy to apply, drys very strong (not good for bonding) and smooth.
I just wish it also came in 9oz packages, would save on shipping weight.
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