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The Hobbyking SS series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic.
Spec. Weight: 63g Size: 55x35x8mm Cells: 12-24Ni MH ~ 4-8S Li Po Max Current: 60A Burst : 70A No BEC Timing: 1/7/15/30 programmable PWM: 8/16K
Features.
Constant current 60A Max 70A
Li-Poly 4-8 cells
Low Resistant 0.0017 Ohms;
Dynamic Braking
BEC: opto
Auto shut down when lose signal
Slow down at 3.0V per cell Lipo, Cut-off at 2.9V per cell Lipo 0.8V NiMh
User Programming options.
Battery settimg
Throttle Range
Brake settimg 4 options:
Direction and Cutoff Type
Timing Mode Setting: 1 / 7 / 15 / 30
PWM setting: 8K/16K
Note:
This ESC is OPTO, with no BEC supplying power to your receiver. You will need an extra power source for your receiver. (such as UBEC or Rx battery pack) If you hear the music tone repeat for more than 3 times, you may need to check your power source to the receiver.
Go to Birdie 80A Opto ESC and scroll down to files. Open files and then open manual. The manual file will show you how to program this ESC. I have both ESCs and the programming seems to be the same.
The advert says there is a limited range of user programming that can be carried out on this ESC, but no instructions were include in the sealed package when it arrived. I've read the earlier reply that info is available in the Files tab at the bottom of the HK advert but when I click it its empty. Can anyone direct me to where they are, or post a copy on the files tab?
The HobbyKing UBEC Will supply a solid 5v or 6v to your reciever with from a 2s to 6s Lipoly pack.
Specifications:
Output: 5v/3a & 6v/3a (Selectable via jumper)
Ripple: <50mVp-p(*2A/12V)
Input: 5.5v~26v (2 to 6s)
Size: 51.6mm*16.6mm*8.5mm
Weight: 11.5g
UBECs are used by connecting the input wires to the battery and the output to the receiver. This allows your Speed Controller to run cooler, and safer as you now have an external circuit to power your receiver. Should the Speed Controller be overloaded and fail, you still have control of your plane.
Thanks for a quick reply, how can i know if an esc can work on a multirotor, i hear the refresh rate is key. I just cant spend the money on a turnigy plush esc right now and i need something to power my hexacopter for 50A minimum 3s.
Hello, I had bought 2 of these speed controllers few months back and one of them suddenly stopped working. I am using it with a 3s 11.1v battery and a turnigy motor. Please Help!
Sos au secour s'il vous plait. Je ne parvient pas a faire fonctionner le frein sur ce controleur,j'ai telechargé* la notice mais je programme le frein et il ne fonctionne pas.
my friend this is an opto esc, check the specs and it clearly mentions "no bec" so you need to add an external bec to power your reciever and therefore your electronics, this esc will power only your motor.
Sounds to me that you might need to buy yourself a UBEC to get these ESC's to work because they are Opto ESC's,which means you need a UBEC to power your RX = receiver,once you have your separate UBEC (PRODUCT ID: TR-UBEC) wire the two blank wires with out a plug to your battery and then plug the other end into your receiver and then they will all work,good luck.
I've brought loads of ESC's off of HK before and not one has failed let alone not work from the get go.
Couple of questions. I got this ESC and it is sold here as 60Amp/70Amp burst. The printing on the ESC is the big 60 with the smaller 70 over it as you can see here clearly. But the small print that is not readable on this photo here, under HK-70A ESC it says, Constant Current:70A Max Current: 80A. So what is true? Second question. Looking in the manual under files for programming, several ESC’s are stated in the Cell type and Cell count section. Do I need to use the 60A or 70A section?
Typically the max 80A draw is for bursts of energy like when taking off or hand launching a plane or while doing aerobatics. If you plan on doing 3D flight and want that power output, it will most likely burn the controller up and maybe the motor too.
I used the "70 amp" section for mine. I tried the "60 amp" one and the programing will be off by one cell. I tried for 4s on the 60 amp and it wasn't giving me full power with 4s. I tried the "70 amp" program for 4s and it works just great now. That's 1-6 for 4s on 70 amp and 1-6 on the 60 amp program. That did it for mine.
Good morning HORUS. you used the ESC battery 3 S. I bought one of these and saw that Na was nominated for batteries 4-8 S. * Batteries only have 3 S. I wonder if you used this with 3s. and what was the result? Thank you.
also to clarify, it will work for a 3s as long as you don't overdraw the amps. as 8s is the maximum voltage the ESC can handle.
Also another note is that this ESC does not have a BEC, so you have to power the Rx through a external BEC
This is really interesting information. I've never used mine on 3S. If this is correct, it leads only to further questions about the accuracy of HK specs. This is a fundamental matter.
Bom dia HORUS. o senhor utilizou o ESC com bateria 3 S. Eu comprei um destes e nã*o vi que era indicado para baterias de 4 - 8 S.
Só* tenho baterias 3 S. gostaria de saber se utilizou este com 3s. e qual foi o resultado?
Obrigado.
I would say no. I haven't tried because the specs are for 4 cells up. But some are reporting that it will work in a three cell set up. Check the discussions and decide for yourself how much credibility you should give to those views when balanced against the specs etc.
I've just bought one of these ESC for a model boat and need to know how to programme the reverse function with 50% power. There is no mention if this feature in the manual. Is there a progamming card available for these ESC. Any suggestions please
No programming card available. This is a good ESC very suitable for aircraft. You will not be able to programme a switchable reverse for use in car or boat. The facility is useful only for a permanent change of rotation and it can be initiated only in programming mode. Not practical during normal operation. This is not a "reversing" ESC but rather an ESC which will allow you to change motor rotation direction without changing leads. Nothing more.
when installed, and using an external BEC, do i need to remove the white signal wire to the RX to enable the BEC, or can i leave all 3 leads to the RX plugged in?
This is a very tidy ESC which comes with a super heat sink. Simple but neat and tidy. You do not need to clip out any wires because your Rx will not be receiving any power supply from the ESC. The white wire is vital. It is your throttle signal. Hook it up just as you would do for any other ESC with BEC incorporated. You will drive your Rx from your external BEC which will need to be plugged into your battery slot on the Rx - or any other free port. Obviously you will do a test hook up on
no, you don't. if it had a bec, you would need to clip the red wire, but never the signal. on this, as it has no bec, you do not need to clip any wires. hope this helps.
You do not describe the particular set up that you have so it is not easy to give you good suggestions. However, you have quite a fast motor and it is possible that you will need to adjust the timing. But first, have you been able to achieve the boot up signal on power up? If the ESC is not live, it is not going to drive anything. This ESC does not power the Rx, so you need to have a power source for the Rx. Connect the ESC lead to the throttle channel of the Rx then power up the Rx with yo
This is an opto ESC so you will need to provide a battery to your receiver to power that. The lipo you are putting to this ESC will just power the motor, but it won't work until you power your receiver.
The three leads feed the motor. The lead to the Rx carries the signal and a ground wire - no power. Back to the ABC - think of it as labelling to help you remember which ones connect to each of your motor's red, black and white or yellow leads. The connection order will affect motor rotation direction and is established by trial and error. As a starting point use A for red, B for yellow or white and C for black.
on the motor, there is no positive, negative, or signal. all the wires take turns doing the same thing. for the connection to the receiver, you need an external bec, or a separate 5 to 6 volt battery, as it does not have a bec built in. the receiver wires go black=negative, red=positive, white=signal.
No plugs fitted. However, you do have a standard combination jr/futaba female fitting to hook into your Rx. You will need to fit a male battery connector and also three maile bullet connectors for your motor. I found XT60 okay for battery and 3.3mm bullets for motor were sufficient.
Not Exactly good enough as turnigy esc but they are good condition they work well and of course cheaper so that I choose them for my models... good luck
waleed in the FILES tab is a manual. Run through that setup to check you have every thing right. Then try it on another motor or another ESC on that motor. If still just your ESC contact CS if new if old but a new one SORRY. I hope this helps
Check your instruction manual. Next, check all your soldering. Wipe flux away. Repeat again. Flux seems to cause many of the early glitches experienced within our group. Check insulation. Check voltage input. If insufficient, this won't go! I would assume that the item is okay - they usually are - and I would search for problems being introduced by my own set up etc. Once your checks are exhausted, send details to CS.
im a used to esc that give tones for the battery cell count. I am only getting 2 tones. Is this normal? I have gone thru the programming to set to 5 cells but still tones 2. Also I have also set the brake to 0 but it still has some resistance.
Note, it is a simple ESC. If you slect battery type, it should do a cell count automatically and get to the right voltage for you. Check out the discussions through the whole range of SS ESCs and you should find excellent advice - and instructions downloads. I learned on an 18 Amp one! But, yes, limited tones.
Think of it as a safe 60amp. This is a beautifully fabricated item. Solid. Large heat sink which is cut away for excellent cooling.
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
mikedejager
105 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
47 thumbs up!
When I`ve got this ESC it looked great!, When Itried to start it up with a motor, the only thing he did was siderring, nothing less, nothing more, howmany times I changed the wires,
Hope it will be better next time.
Mike
4 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Burdo
239 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
29 thumbs up!
I bought this to use on my HK-T500 using 2 x 11.1v flightmax in series and a Hextronic UBEC. As I was going through the programming cycle, it just stopped working. Before I programmed it, it was working perfectly...should have left it as it was. Great price, but there must be a bad batch out there, as I'm not the only one with this problem.
8 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
racingjeff1
41 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
14 thumbs up!
By far the best ESC I have used. I have used several off brands. Lots of programming features, nice big heat sink. Switched over from Mag8 70A, the Super Simple is significantly better. Throttle is very smooth, something the Mag8 never had. I use these on all 5-6lb planes. Typically run a Turnigy 42-50-700 with 5000Mah 4 cell, 15x10 prop ~900Watts. I push these SS 70A's to the limit and above. For $18.00 are you kidding? Get one.
Very nice esc! I use it my Multiplex Twister with an ARC 28-47-1 4250kv motor and a FlightMax 3000 4s lipo. It handles 78 amps full throttle over 1200 watts and 1400plus grams of thrust! Not even warm. Very smooth throttle response. Didn't need to program a thing works well as is.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
Kencramsey
26 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
6 thumbs up!
We have two of these. One plane we run the 3s zippy 2200 battery with the 42-40 turnigy motor works great. The other plane we run two 3s zippy 2200 batterys with the turnigy 42-40 at 42 amps work good no problems.
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