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Turnigy Talon Hexcopter (V1.0) Carbon Fiber Frame - 625mm
The Turnigy Talon V1.0 Hexcopter frame is crafted from high quality genuine carbon fiber offering both great looks and performance. Our engineers set out to create a Hexcopter frame without compromise, several materials were tested and rejected until they decided that only genuine carbon fiber would meet the goals we had set out to achieve. Every component was weighed and measured shaving mere grams where possible to achieve a light weight yet extremely rigid frame. We didn't allow any compromises and neither should you.
The added lift capacity of a hex configuration makes this frame ideal for carrying larger payloads such as camera systems and other electronic components. This makes for an exceptional camera rig or simply a very agile and powerful multi-rotor frame for aerobatics!
The Talon Hexcopter is constructed from the same high quality components that are used in the hugely popular Talon V2 Quadcopter frame, but we have re-designed the main frame for use in a hex configuration.
During development of the Talon V2 our team took the already popular Talon frame and studied the design, based on feedback from the multi-rotor community and our own ideas we re-designed the motor mounting plates allowing for top or bottom mounting of 28 and 35 size brushlessoutrunner motors (see photos for reference of different mounting options). The improved clamping system alone underwent 3 re-designs until our engineers were satisfied that the perfect strength and weight saving combination had been achieved. The center frame clamping system was almost doubled in size to ensure a strong brace on each boom. Every aspect of this frame was thoroughly examined and thought through.
All this attention to detail has resulted in the elegant simplicity that is the Talon Hexcopter, a Hex frame that we are as proud to put our name behind as you will be to own.
We also offer a full line of quality multi-rotor electronics such as multi-rotor control board, ESC, motors and more, so there is no need to compromise on your electronics setup either!
Requires: 28-XX or 35-XX brushlessoutrunner motor x 6 18~25A brushlessESC x 6 8x4~10x4.7 propeller x 6 (3 standard/3 reverse rotation) Multi-rotor control board 2500~3300mAh 11.1V lipoly 4CH Transmitter & Receiver
I guess it'll be a bit on a heavy side. AUW would be about 1kg, plus 900g = 1.9kg. The motors are just a little over 500g of thrust = 3kg thrust total. The best AUW for the quad is half of max thrust, so comfortable payload seem to be a 500g, above that it'll loose the agility.
If you want the agile flying with 900grams of payload, I suggest upsizing to SK3 - 2830-1130kv with 9 inch propellers. I'll have plenty of power to spare. Lots of people use the NTM series, but I don't like them - the ones with 3mm shaft have a very small bearing in comparison to SK3, which make them less durable.
So I got this frame and 6 of these motors: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp ?idProduct=28112
But now that I go to assemble, I don't know how to attache the motors to the frame. The motors come with a motor mount, but it is way to big and the holes don't line up with the holes in the frame.
I think you could attach the base of the motor directly to the frame as those screw holes line up, however then the shaft on the bottom of the motor conflicts with the frame.
What do I do?
Partly based on polycool's comment I just ordered this landing gear off ebay:
*******cgi.ebay****/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem &item=251229899825&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160#ht_2 787wt_956
But this is my first copter build and I'm wondering if I'll understand how to attach it to the Talon frame - am I likely to have to drill holes in the bottom plate of the frame?
(I don't see any holes in the bottom plate looking at that rightmost picture of all the frame parts)
Both plates have holes drilled. The holes in the top plate are, obviously, for the construction itself. The bottomplate (the upper plate on the last image) has four thin gaps in it, I guess those originally are meant for any battery mounting, but I'm almost sure those will fit with the landinggear (ordered one myself). Otherwise you might be able to mount the gear with rip ties etc. I don't think you need to drill holes!
All the parts can be found on the last image of the slideshow above. The only "part" missing on that image is the construction manual. You'll need to have some hexagon tools yourself, those aren't included. If that isn't bad enough: you'll need three variations, the smallest three I think.
I use 13x8 3 blade props on the same setup. My copter flys with 2 x 5000mAh 6S for about 14 min with a total copter weight of 3.5kg... hope that helped as indication.
Is this a ok setup on this frame:
Dji Naza M - gps.
Turnigy Plus 30 ams ESC
Turnigy 4208 620kv Brushless Multi-Rotor Motor
Carbon Fiber Propellers 11X5
4s Liop ?
What more do I need to coplete this build?
(I´*ve allready got a 10ch Tx/Rx)
*Tom It's ok Tom however the motor concerns me. I'd get the 750Kv or 800Kv NTM Turnigy motors and call it good. Either one will spin a 11x5. 4S is perfect but get the Turnigy 40A Plush ESCs instead, far superior quality in my opinion. Carbon fiber props are good and 11x5 will work fine as long as they will fit.
Hey Eric, no problem fitting the 14inch props on the extended booms, keep in mind they are only 320mm long (you need the Talon V2 ones). With these booms and 14" props you will have 80mm clearance between the props. Best of luck with the build.
Yes, All talon are alike except some very minor things..like this has 6of everything.. you can use those spares comfortably with this frame....Goodluck! :)
you can fixe 2 lipo together under this frame with long scratch and make an Y adaptater for connecting. It is possible to fixe directly on skid landind frame
I keep hearing that cheap props are breaking in mid air. As a new guy with no experience how do I know which are reliable? I will be using these motors (NTM Prop Drive Series 35-30 1100kv 380w) unless someone thinks they are not suitable for a (Turnigy Talon Hexcopter (V1.0) Carbon Fiber Frame - 625mm).
The motors are not bad for their price. Breaking props are the issue by using cheap nylon ones. Try APC props or at best carbon fiber depends how high will be your AUW. Till 2kg AUW is no problem to use APCm but on my Y6 with these motors and weight 2,6kg rather swichted to carbon fiber 11/5 carbon props Graupner style.
cheap props and usually they spin them too fast. People buy SF props then spin them on motors doing 800kv plus in a 4s setup and wonder why the break in mid air.......
Just learning slowly and wonder if the Turnigy Multistar 30 ESC is fine for my first build compared to the more expensive ones... and why? Please answer in plain language, as I do not know all the techy talk yet. Thank you.
They are a good place for you to start and will save you having to flash them with Simonk Firmware. When you build your next Multirotor go with some of the HK F-30A's (or something similar) then flash them with the simonk firmware.
I would recommend the dlux 20A and 30A. I had a multistar 30a, and it managed to reverse my tail motor during a runaway on my talon. I lost a gopro and a frame after going through a set of trees. I had a video link hence it was very depressing to see it coming down.
In this crash, it took me several days to find the remains, as the GPS onboard tried to predict the path, hence it was almost 30 yards away from the last GPS point, which was WRONG! Much to learn still.
Also, if you cut away the wrapping, you will find that the dlux is superior both mechanically and in the layout and assembly. The solder pads for the power and servo cables are also quite solid.
Another one, just to remind you that if you flash with the simonk firmware, there is an issue using the APM 2.5, you will not get the right range of power.
Just my 10 cents (could not help that).
...
Could someone suggest me one combo motors,battery,gyro,control board,propellers and generally everything i would need to build this hexcopter up,in order to make an fpv system with a go pro.I am totally new to this and any expert/experienced suggestions would be so needed.Dont mind that much about the prices in your thoughts.
I would like this system mostly for large area inspections (i am an engineer) so big flight times (20 mins) would be really hellpfull,i guess.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Flight time about 20 minutes is not such simple - you should calculate with controller/motor/prop/ESC price about 1000USD. Actually I have built such a FPV filming machine based on this frame with hover time 20 minutes with GoPro2 onboard and 8000mAh LiPo.
Pancake motors that are nice and slow are they key, spinnng large low pitch props. So you will need the extended booms, some 14x4.5 props and some 6s motors (have a look at the multistar motors).
Hi RDemptioner - in Y6 is not necessary to extend the booms - at this frame can be fitted 15/4 CF props and still is there enough place to go to 17 inches. In X6 is the situation similar... only what is necessary is to simple turn the motor mounts at each second boom upside down :-) Just try to simple draw some circles - one with 625 mm and three (for Y6) or six (for X6) and put them at end of booms. If in X6 comfiguration are turning above each other will cause slight loss of efficiency but it is not so bad. Calculation of my Y6 based at DFJI F550 shows hover time about 15 minutes and yesterday i have achieved 11 minutes of filming flight even with some speed climbing around the houses and speed passes between trees. For reference look to youtube for rc evo 3 aerobatics by pepin at youtube.
Hi very new to this and need some advice please?
Below is the required list for this... but what would be the optimum list for parts and why if possible?
My goals are long flytime, lots of power,onboard video and later autonomous flght.
Thanks in advance to those who answer this.
Requires:
28-XX or 35-XX brushless outrunner motor x 6
18~25A brushless ESC x 6
8x4~10x4.7 propeller x 6 (3 standard/3 reverse rotation)
Multi-rotor control board
2500~3300mAh 11.1V lipoly
4CH Transmitter & Receiver
for long flight times you would be looking at high mah packs.
As you add more weight to the hex the more power you need to get airborn and stay in flight.
get 30A speed contols as it is better to under work them vs pushing them to there limits.
A 28 or 35 size motors would be fine.
Rember kvxvoltage will bive you max rpm's avalable unloaded( no prop )
Also the more motors you have drawing off of the battery will limit your run time.
using 3300mAh as a referance.
3 motors will run 2x as long as 6 motors with one pack. Yet the tri will have about 1/2 the lifting power of the hex based on thrust avalability only.
Remember nomater what you get tri to oct the cost goes up the more motors you use.
Hi guys, forget combination of long flight time and big load - that is not working :-) espetially with 28 or 35 motors with 3Ah LiPo. The only way are low KV motors with huge props and big bat.
agree with Zlutyslamak, I run dual 8400mah batteries and large slow props. If you are wanting long flight times and are not going to sling a DSLR underneath just get a tricopter insted.
here is an idea for hobby king for a v2 of this unit.
take the talon tricopter folding arm system and super impose a second body 180 to the first to make a folding hexacopter unit.
Even stretch the body a bit like in a H sysetem to get better arm orentation for the folding ones and alow for all of the speed controles to be inside of main body.
You have the motor mounts and folding mecanisums just need a base for the parts to be mounted to.
Hexacopters are usually built for filming platforms, so you are after smooth flight and some redundancy. If you put on moveable arms like the tricopter you move away from the "smooth" part (non-solid joints are just vibration points).
Andreas, I just got a Talon frame and put 6 NTM 28-36 750kv, with 6 30amp ESCs. Frame feels good and strong. I just finished mounting a set of Quadframe Landing Gear -155mm w/Acc. plates and a 2-Axis gimbal for GoPro ...RMRC
Gordon: Thank you, thank you! I see exactly what you did. It looks great. The Quadframe landing skids look to be the nicest I've seen, very sturdy. I look forward to a report about how solid everything turns out to be and how well the vibration dampening works.
with the introduction of 4 small holes in the bottom plate you can screw the H.A.L. landing gear on....I have used these you just need to buy some of the 750mm long 5mm carbon tube to make the feet (the bits touching the ground) longer to give a bit more stability on landing so it can't fall over. Although I am running the extended booms so not sure if the issue still exist if the arms are shorter.
Rdemptioner:I chose my motor/electonics set-up based on combos you talked about somewhere in here. The NTM 2836 750kv has a 4mm shaft. I thought it looked kind of small for such a big prop.Seems you guys turn a 11 x 4.7 no problem. I want to run Graupner E Prop 11 x 5s. Their 10 x 5s were great on my Quad. The props have an 8mm center bore and are 7mm thick. Any line on prop adapters for this? Also, do you think having 6 CF props spinning above all my FPV electronics would have any negatives? Thanks
Hey Gordon, not at all. Decent CF props are awesome and Graupner's are one of the best, just don't get any of your apendeges inbetween them when they are spinning...... I have not used the Graupner's for a while but from ememory they come with adapters rings for the centre hole so you can fit them to most prop adapters (which are around the 6mm mark). Just remember to grab some cheap plastic props to start off with till you get the tuning done, then change over to the CF ones as you don't want to damage the expesive CF ones when tuning. The only donwside to CF is it is really hard to get ones below 5" twist, I would really love a set of 16x3.8 for my Octo....
I just received this frame kit after it was back in stock. I'm thinking that either the brackets which hold the booms to the central hub are too small or the booms are too big. I tried mating one boom to its bracket, and I had to use a flat-blade screwdriver to expand the sides of the brackets before the boom would fit. The sides of the bracket are now splayed out a bit, such that the screw used to tighten the bracket halves together can't be installed. While I'm at it, should both holes where that screw goes have threads in them?
Minor QC issue. I had some that were too tight and I had to spread the clamp a little as you did. I had some that were too loose and would rotate, a wrap of scotch tape on the boom fixed it right up. Make sure you have the screw going in from the correct side and you may need a clamp or vise grip to unspread the fitting if you over did the spreading.
Can anyone point me to a good solution to add landing skids and/or a camera mount to the Talon Hex? There just doesn't seem any way to attach anything to the bottom plate between the clamps taking up so much space and the big holes pre-cut. Thoughts? Thanks.
get a set of the H.A.L. landing gear, there are 3 different parts you will need (legs/feet 9171000098, connection brackets 9171000093, Leg mounts 9171000094). I would also grab a few lengths of 750mm long 5mm carbon tube to extend the feet and an extra bag of clamps to make a cross brace.
My booms are a little loose in the fittings. No matter how much I tighten them, they can rotate. Any suggestions on getting them in securely and have them stay that way? Thanks.
That does not sound good, are you using the booms that came with them or the extended ones? If you bought extended ones and you got the ones for the Talon V1 instead of V2 its because they are 12mm not 14mm (OD is 14mm on the hexa booms). If they are the ones that came with the kit then I would say HK have put the wrong size into the kit. There is also a little grub srew that goes in the top of the boom mounts to help stop twist and bring the tube back to a more round shape (when you tighten the clamps on the mounts it makes the boom a little oval in shape).
Actually it turned out not too bad. A layer of scotch tape around the boom made them nice and tight, juts a little QC issue I imagine. These were the standard booms. Thanks.
Yeah mate, unless you are running the 320mm extended booms you will be in trouble the first time you have a rough landing, the 320mm booms allow upto a 15inch prop, but then you run into the same problem as the 250mm booms and a 12inch prop (so stick with a max 14inch props on the 320mm booms)
i've installed NTM 3536 (910KV-350w) and with the final weight witch is 2,8 Kg (with Landing Gear, 3S 4000ma Lipo, Gimbal and GoPro) it's realy cool with SF 11x4,7 !
Alex, using 12inch prop will leave a very narrow gap from each other. about 2-3mm gap. Im using 11x4.7 prop to be safe
Sarch-Aero, may I know your flight time? NTM28.36 11x4.7 4400mah 3S = 13mins.
They don't hit until the first ime you have a rough landing and one of the arms gets a little loose, then you are in trouble. the 11x4.7 Satch recomends work well, or the 9x4.7 3-blades are also good and have a much large range of colours
Hi Alex - solution is simple - you can use even 16 inch props if you mount 3 motors upside down *-) ... or make as me Y6 and limitation of prop size is only the distance between engine bases :-)
HK, you have the top and bottom plates for all the other Talon models, hurry up and put them out for this model, I want to stack them and more away from the ugly tupperware.
14mm, the Talon V2 booms fit, just get the 320mm ones, you will be happy with the extra length they will give, else they now haves spares the correct length. Don't but the 14mmx750mm carbon rod HK sells to replace these, it is not upto the job
Customer Reviews
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RCNoob
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Great quality frame for the price!
If I was to pick any bad points, it would be that either the brackets or the mast tubes could be more consistent in their size. Some of the booms slide into their anchors better than others.
Generally excellent quality and would buy again in a heart beat.
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JRoddy
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Just had the pleasure of assembling this Hexcopter, very good quality parts and very sturdy design. perfect for someone that wants to make their first Hexcopter to someone that wants a frame that they can easily modify for photography ect. Just a little note, make sure to put some lock tight on the motor mount grub screws after you have installed all your electric's. cant wait to fly it.
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PaulyB
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Just got mine yesterday and put it together in less than an hour. The quality is real good and it truly feels like a professional product rather than a flimsy toy. Cant wait to mount a camera to this bad boy....and boy does it look "BAD"!
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ciarpaglini
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Excelente calidad este Hexcopter todas sus piezas de aluminio y fibra de carbono, la bateria de 3300 mah recomendada se queda un poco corta almenos con los motores que ellos mismos recomienda y con tod y que he bajado la curva del acelerador a 70pcnt recomendaria una de 5000 mah con esta he volado 6 min y aun le quedaba algo.
Aqui les dejo lo que almenos yo use para armarlo
MOTOR 6 X www.link 6 X www.link 6 X www.link Slow Fly Electric Prop 1045R SF RH Rotation (4 pc)
Slow Fly Electric Prop 1045 SF (4 pc - Green)
DISTRIBUIDOR 2 X www.link YA QUE SON DE 4 USE 3 DE CADA DISTRIBUIDOR ADEMAS SE PUEDE EMPOTAR PERFECTO DENTRO DEL CENTRO DEL HEXA
PROGRAMADOR 1 X www.link IMPORTANTE YA QUE SI COMPRAN A MISMA TARJETA CEREBRO QUE USE DEBEN CAMBIARLE EL FIRMWARE YA QUE VIENE PROGRAMADA SOLO PARA QUATCOPTER
TARJETA CONTROLADORA 1 X www.link www.link que va necesitar http://www.hobbyking
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Daniel
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Excellent frame. Tested the carbon booms with multimeter, they are highly conductive which is indicative of a real carbon boom, not a fake like many factories are making... (fakes are mostly G10 tube with thiiiiin veneer of CF.
Aside from carbon, the frame is solidly built, all the holes line up perfect, the boom attachment system is solid and feels sturdy but easy to switch out a boom.
So far still assembling electronics but this frame looks to be the REAL DEAL. Good work Turnigy!
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