This superb looking F4U from our top quality Durafly range and has enough scale detail and features to keep any warbird enthusiast happy. The 1100mm range offers the RC pilot a practical size model that can be easily transported and uses the ever popular 2200mAh 3s Lipoly pack, yet at the same time, the model is large enough to have presence and is able to tackle most airfields, not to mention a little wind, making it very practical.
As well as looking fantastic, this Corsair is plug and fly, meaning very little assembly work is needed. The powerful outrunner motor, ESC, navigation lights, servoless electric retracts & servos are all pre-installed leaving you to glue on the tailfeathers and some scale detailing, bolt on the plug in wings and go flying!
We have flown this superb F4U Corsair extensively during testing and it will not disappoint, there is plenty of power for those really scale warbird aerobatics and the airframe is viceless with no hint of a tip stall. The pre-installed flap servos have a nice, slow operation to help prevent ballooning and the flaps themselves allow the approach speed to get down to a crawl without a hint of wingrock. There is no doubt, this is one fantastic looking warbird and it flies as easily as a low wing trainer!
Is anyone flying this plane (or any durafly 1100mm warbird) with dual-flaps settings?? In other words, are you flying with separate, independent "takeoff" and "landing" settings, for throw-limits on flaps?? I know flaps (in general) might seem like total overkill on such a docile, small & light warbird, but I'd like to know if anyone is flying this way successfully. It can be easily programmed on my Tx a **8, since the flaps switch is a 3-way.. anyone doing this??
No, but mine are programmed to the knob on my radio so that they are infinitely adjustable. I just crank them all the way down to land. I don't use them to take off, it doesn't really need them, just a lot of right rudder.
have a durafly t28 with flaps usually dont use them on take off and about 10-20 % on landings is all make sure to give a lil up elevator and try them out at a high altitude first to get used to the effects of the plane before trying them on landing approch
Does anyone have an idea what part number to order to get the a replacement servo/s for the flaps on the 1100mm Corsair? I've tried HK customer service and bought four replacements none are timed even close to the original and will only cause problems landing i.e. ballooning. thx
HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Servo Rascal68 this is the replacement that HK send me for my p47 but if you look at whats in there right now is shows pz-15178 which I believe to be the same as hk 15178 as far as speed you more control over ailerons therefore they will be faster because you control that. the ones greasmnky are talking about are very good and work great it just depends on what you want to pay...hope this helps
I think what he wants is the slow action of these servos to match what he already has. I really like how hobby king deleted our other conversation, probably because I mentioned a competitor. Whats wrong Hobby king, can't stand the competition? Why don't you carry the **** we are looking for and we wouldn't have to go to these other places!
ok let me try again me no want fast servo me want slow servo. for flappage. me check hobby king, no slow servo for flaps. me check other places and find slow servos at rat **** castle. servos many more dollars than hobbyking but only ones that sell to me.
Rascal - In case the original question wasn't already answered clearly, the flaps DO operate slower than the ailerons, and are supposed to do that. Not only does it look more scale, but it helps avoid the issue of "ballooning" when deployed - the slow flap actuation slows the plane down nicely without adversely affecting glide path - I got to see this many times at Joe Nall this week, and these little Durafly planes are AWESOME!!
Yeah I am originally form up that way, I live down by the coast now. that's some nice country up that way. Yeah I have been trying to convince HK that the servos are timed different. Bought the plane in Feb. and still have not gotten to fly it due to trying to get replacement servos from HK was even going to buy them on my own but no one knows what part number to order. got any clues
Look, I am not trying to be a smart ace, you can't get them here. I also tried. They don't sell them as a separate part here. Hobby king won't let me post the names of the places that you can get them. This is what I have been trying to do. Either check some other places or put in 2 of the fast servos, and use the knob on your radio to deploy them. you can turn the knob slow to deploy the flaps slowly. Some radios you can slow them down with programming. I have this plane, the flaps are so small they do very little anyway. Don't be afraid to fly it without them. Clue, look for places that sell FMS planes, they carry them.
Anyone now how to get a response for help with damaged parts from Hobby King? I opened a ticket with the support centre and "Natasha" sent a email response saying a product specialist team member would contact me in 1 to 2 days. It is now 4 days later and no response. I have sent eamils to the support centre for a update and they do not respond. I have tried numerous times to get a update on live chat and had no success. I open a live chat session and I am the only one that chats. I get a generic greeting response. Then no response from the Hobby King person who is suppose to be chatting with me. Then the chat session times out.
I can now see why there are many bad reviews about Hobby King. This item is listed on the website as available in the US but it is not. If you try to order it the only shipping option is China post. I emailed back and forth with the online support and never got an answer to my question as to why it says these are available in the US warehouse.
This plane is not in the US warehouse, only in the International warehouse, that is why your only choice is China Post. Out of 19 orders I have done with HK, only one was from the US warehouse. Unfortunately, if you want this plane, you will have to get it from China. It's not bad though, you will get it within a month.
Yes, it is available in the u.s, but out of stock. Their website is very confusing for this reason. The shipping on this is likely to be 55$, so you might want to wait. from the U.S. warehouse,it will be maybe 25$, plus it costs maybe 10$ more from the U.S. warehouse. Still save about 20$.
yes, I had been changing the battery in another position. It must be behind CG point, But in instruction is saying that the battery must be in front of airplane,but IT IS SO DANGEROUS. Because in this position the airplane will have crash
Sorry Claudio to to intervene, but your statement is absolut rubbish. The battery must be as forward as possible. Additionally I use the biggest 4S pack that is possible (2650 mAh) in order to have as much weight on the main gear as possible. With this setup I have the least torque problem during take-off and she flies very nice in all attitudes!
The airplane is not good with distribution weight. Because in point G with battery and motor in the front of plane, its is so weigh in front and its imposible to fly and command. For this is about yours are broken the landing gear
I have not tried it myself but I would guys that the wheels raked forward would make it handle much better but having said that I can't see that it would retract properly as once you have altered the angle of the wheels by putting a shim in it would change the alignment of the wheels to the cavities in the wing for the wheels
I don't find that you need to, but I fly off of asphalt. Mine doesn't seem to be as nose hevy as other planes I have. I agree with Andrew, if you don't mind the wheels hanging out of the wing cavity you could try raking them forward.
Denis, Gtrain in right, to reverse the brushless motor direction, two of the three wires must be swapped between motor and esc. It doesn't matter which ones are swapped. Make sure to disconnect battery first to re initialise esc.
Denis, he is talking about the 3 large wires between the motor and the speed controller. To get to them you have to take the cowl off and unscrew the 4 motor bracket screws and pull it out. Good luck. If you can find programming info for this speed controller you can usually change the direction in the programming. Good Luck!
There is no positive, negative or neutral, it is 3 phase, controlled by the frequency of the pole shifts. If you reverse any of the 3 wires, it will run reverse. This can be a job on some planes, so be patient. Almost every plane I get has the ESC reversed, ironically, my scratch build was running the right direction the first try.
I need to know if my 3600 mah turnigy will fit the battery tray.
anyone can give me the size of that battery tray please.
here is the link of my battery if you want to see the specs.
if it were me i would look up compatible batteries and see if the dimensions are similar if so it would be safe to say that you would ace enough room. i can also tell you this there is a cannel on youtube that reviewed this exact plane and they showed the battery compartment so so that is another option
the channel on youtube is called flitetest and just look for Durafly warbirds review
You can use the flaps for either taking off or landing. I have them setup in my Tx 100% Up, 30% Down, 100% Down. So I use my switch for 30% down for take off, if I want to (don't really need it). In reality they are slow servos and you set them up that way to avoid a ballooning effect when you put flaps down. The flaps will slow you down and give you a better control of the plane at landing.
I just got my F4U and P51 in the mail... I want to make sure I have spares, just in case... what servo type should be used??? The DURAFLY site says 9g Servos and somebody in previous discussions just mentioned KH922, but they weight 12g.
Does anyone actually changed the servos in these planes??? and what did you use??? or what do you recommend???
I read reviews that the DURAFLY servos are not reliable.
a good option for a good 9g servo would be hextronic (htx) 9g or the turnigy tg9e servos. they work great in my f-4u corsair from parkzone and thy are about the same size. plus your not going to strain the gears because the corsair is not a super fast plane and its not very acrobatic, so don't worry about the nylon gears in the servo i sure they can handle it
Gracias Sergio... Some people have told me about the HXT-9 servos, cheap and good quality for the price. I have used these servos in a 250 size Walkera Heli sometime ago and they were ok. As for the TG9e, I was looking at TGD-9, but I do not know if I am overkilling by these digital servos...
I have one of the older 72 Mhz receivers. I am not sure where the antenna is supposed to go and not interfere with the control surfaces or tailwheel. As a reminder, they are the 2-3ft long antennas. I really like the look of the model without an exposed antenna. Any ideas?
I could exacto knife out a little channel in the bottom of the fuse and tape it in. Any other experiences with this issue?
what i like to do is dead the wire out of the fues and tape it on the top towards the back and around the tail kinda like outlining it it may seem hard to understand because tis hard to describe it to you
I'm using a Master Air Screw 11 x 6 propeller without any adapters. Just using the stock spinner with 2 washers in each side and it works perfectly. It also flies with 10x6 and (probably better) with 11x7.
I tried 10x6 with S4, it works very well. 10x6 and S3 is too slow. I also tried stock 4x prop and it works well with S3 and S4. So if you're going with stock motor and 2x prop the sweet spot must be somewhere around 11x6. Just my 2c.
With the stock prop with 2 blades only (broken one made 2 blades), the left torque disappears. The plane flies well, but the motor/prop have less thrust to get out of trouble if you need to.
With the MAS 11x6, the left torque is there again (probably a bit less than the 4 blades). You just need to make sure you don't give it full throttle for TO and instead build speed gradually and steer with the rudder when it starts to head left.
I tend to be a bit nervous when doing hand launching so I mostly apply too much throttle just to be sure. Anyway, left pull is not a problem if you know what to expect so you can act fast. Otherwise, the more speed you build up before "takeoff" the less left pull you experience.
A valid concern, belly landing is problematic even with smaller prop due to possible damage. You need a nice runway and this is a drawback with these planes. I had some skiis for the winter and that worked really well, now I'm stuck with rough field and the props and gears will surely suffer, not sure what to do. Maybe I'll build some kind of "extended" belly :)
Great plane with fantastic details. Easy to assemble - goes together in an hour or two with very little glue. All horns fit perfect and to my surprise, several spare screws and horns are supplied, even spare wing screws. A great feature. The rockets are glued on a platform which is fixed to the wing with a screw so they are easy to remove for those of you who flies on grass. The drop tanks are slid on to the wing with a plastic holder and can also be removed easily. There are 4 lamps, one green and one red on wing tips and two spot lamps which seems to be the new very bright CE LED so I think they can easily be seen in daylight. All cables are well marked but with CC1,CH2 etc so if you don't have a servo tester the 4 questionalble channels are CH1 = Ail, CH2= Lamps, CH5 = Gear, CH6=Flaps. This plane is truly a great bargain and I am sure it will fly very well.
5 comments. Reply..
2 thumbs up!
j'ai reçu le miens il y quelques jours et ai fait le montage hier! cet avion est tout simplement une réussite!! pour un avion de cette envergure et pour le prix il n'y a rien de mieux sur le marché,ayant déjà le corsair de parkzone et de art tech, la comparaison a été plus que flagrante et c'est sans hésitation que nous avons avec ce produit un avion typé maquette à 100pcnt!!
la matiere est hyper résistance, le kit led fonctionne parfaitement avec une bonne luminosité, seul problème un des servos de flap est grillé!! :-( et les tiges pour guignol beaucoups trop longues!
à part cela c'est un très très bel avion!!
bravo durafly, bravo et merci hobbyking!!
3 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
For the price, you can't beat the size and features of this warbird. It is very scale... even if you just hang it at home, puts a smile of satisfaction on my face. She flies very well stock and there is no need for any mods. The drop tanks and rockets does not affect her flight characteristics. I stalled her a few times on maiden, especially during turns and there was no funny wing drop death spiral... just throttle up and she climbs in a bank. Turns are even better with a mix of ailerons and rudder. Can fly at 50pcnt throttle, for more warbird style flying, go 75pcnt-80pcnt throttle. WOT static at 30Amps.
However, I only gave 3 crowns for quality because of Quality Control and Design issues. First, QC issue, the pushrod tubes for elevator and rudder are not aligned well (bent in an arc) and just glued on. This results in overworked servos (constant buzzing) for the elevator and rudder pushrods and worse, the elevators and rudder does not center. I changed to metal gear servos and it starts to flex the servo mounts. In the end, I used a small penknife and re-adjusted the pushrod tubes. Now its all good, no buzzing servos and both elevator and rudder centers.
Second, its design issue. For such a great product, HK made some poor choices in the landing gear department. The servoless retracts are GREAT. Trouble is with the choice of tires. They are too hard and without any
wunderschgÃ¶ner flieger!! Sehr sauber verarbeitet...leider sind kleine dellen in der FlÃ¤che wohl vom transport nicht zu vermeiden(oder dank dem zoll) ;) erstflug steht noch aus aber der flieger ist topqualitÃ¤t!! sehr scale!
Please be sure to check the CG with the landing gear UP. The CG moves backwards when the wheels are stored as they move from the front of the CG point to the back of it, making the model tail-heavy in this configuration. It is better to confirm proper balance with the gear up. In this case you will need to add weight to the nose (there is a small cavity behind the plastic cowling for ballast) until achieving the proper balance at the indicated CG position per-manual. In flight with the gear down, you will need to compensate the nose-heavy tendency with some up-elevator. This will not be necessary if flaps are deployed.