HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V2.1 (Atmega168PA)
Based on and built in conjunction with the original QUADBoard designer Rolf and the popular and already well supported KK Control board, the Hobbyking Multi-Rotor control board is bringing Quadcopter madness to the masses with its breakthroughs in quality and price!
The HobbyKing Multi-Rotor control board uses Japanese Murata piezo gyros that are less sensitive to vibration than SMD type gyros and also features state of the art SMT manufacturing to ensure quality. This board also uses a user programmable Atmega168PA IC.
Specs. Size: 50.5mm x 50.5mm x 23.5mm Weight: 14.5 gram IC: Atmega168PA Gyro: Murata Piezo Input Voltage: 3.3-5.5V Signal from Receiver: 1520us (4 channels) Signal to ESC: 1520us
Whats is a Multi-Rotor Control board you ask?
The HobbyKing Multi-Rotor controller is a flight control board for 4 rotor Aircraft (Quadcopters). Its purpose is to stabilise the aircraft during flight. To do this it takes the signal from the three on board gyros (roll, pitch and yaw) then passes the signal to the Atmega168PA IC. The Atmega168PA IC unit then processes these signals according the users installed software and passes control signals to the installed Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs). These signals instruct the ESCs to make fine adjustments to the motors rotational speed which in turn stabilises your Quadcopter.
The HobbyKing Multi-Rotor control board also uses signals from your radio systems receiver (Rx) and passes these signals to the Atmega168PA IC via the ail, ele, thr and rud inputs. Once this information has been processed the IC will send varying signals to the ESCs which in turn adjust the rotational speed of each motor to induce controlled flight (up, down, backwards, forwards, left, right, yaw).
Note: A user manual is available under the files tab. *Royalties paid on each unit to Rolf, the original KK Board Designer.
It absolutly can, but you will need to reflash it because it comes set up for config. RCExplorer has a great write up for reflashing them and you will need the USB adaptor as well. But it is actually very easy and I have done it several times.
Hello guys. Okay I have a 4th motor that wont spin any faster and start late. I think I got rotation right well how it looks? What can I do with the 4 motor? Is it what u call lazy 4? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nyoYtOvprc&feature=y outu.be
It's actually port my esc and motor is fine. But it got better with a 4.7 special modification firmware for fix of lazy 4 but it did very little but working better. But when I went to calibration then throttle down because i was done then i higher my stick all started same time. I unplugged battery then set my yaw pot to 50. Anyway's still lazy.
So you have plugged other motor / esc combo into that port 4 and the problem moves to that motor /esc combo. So it is the port, so what to do. There are a few who have had this problem. So lets maybe take it to the Members Forum.
Randy no it is not a successor. This is a very simple board that only does one type of model at a time. It come as a Plus Copter configuration. To change this you need to flash the board. The KK2.0 has a LCD screen and can easily change from one type to another. If you see the price! The KK2.0 is a much more advance board to this one. This is a good board and a great price.
Hey Randy, this board (based off of the KK Blackboard v5.5) has been around for awhile, long before the KK2. The only thing these two boards share in common is the KK name. As for ease of use, you read right, the KK2 is much easier to setup and tune. As NTHK mentioned, everything is done via the built-in LCD screen and buttons. Pretty much making it plug-and-play but don't under estimate the HK multirotor board though. Despite its lack of a LCD screen, and an on-board accelerometer (for auto-level), it's still a very capable board. Tuning is done via 3 potentiometers on the board. It takes awhile to get the hang of but once you have it figured out, it's pretty easy to tune, even in the field. With the KK2, tuning will pretty much be the same. Instead of turning 3 little pots, you'll just change values using the LCD interface. If you don't plan on ordering an USBasp programmer to go along with the HK multirotor board, you're pretty much wasting your money. This board begs to be re-flashed and there's a ton of firmware out there for it. Because of this, you're not going to be able to swap airframes (going from a quad to say, an airplane) with a push of a button, like you can with the KK2, but I don't find that to be a problem. Over all, the KK2 is the better board, it has better sensors, and for someone new to multirotors, it's really easy to setup. That being said, with a little extra work, some trial and error, and experimenting with different FW (which IMO, is half the fun) you can achieve very similar results with the HK multirotor board. :D
IBeHoey is absolutely correct. Though this board does not have autolevel, it can be made to fly very stable. This is the board that started it all for most multirotor scratch builders.. Like me! Ha ha! I do like that there are so many things this board can be configured to. I now use them mostly on airplanes for stable flight in wind. But, with a lot of fine tuning, these can make a scratch built 580mm quad fly quite nicely!
Well okay here it goes. My quad with this board and Hobby King hk-20a 18-20 speed control. Oh my transmitter is a WFLY WFT09II, I set my yaw pot all the way clockwise to get my esc calibrated. I put on 100 percent throttle turned transmitter and plugged in my battery. It beep and then when it went double beep I lower down throttle all the way down then it beep and listo. I can raise my throttle and motor turn. Anyways i put it back to 50 plug in my battery and nada. My board just flash once and thats all. So my esc wont even beep nothing. I'm running firmware of XXcontrol_KR_XCopter_v2_5.hex TY guys.
Jcer93705 WOW. So how did you "arm" the Flight Controller Board (FCB). Do not get frustrated please. Let us help you. So once the FCB is "arm" does the light stay on, on the FCB? So did you flash your board to X config? We could have this chat on the members forum too (Blue tab at top of page). HAVE YOU ARMED THE FCB?
Paul I do not like that??? Are you sure it is THROTTLE at 100% and not 00%. I have a Mode 1 Turnigy9XV2. For me to ARM my Flight Controller Board (FCB) you have throttle at Zero % then you pull the left lever down and to the right. Then the Light on the FCB come on and stays on.
Hello I'm building a quad and i want two motor up front flying in a X u know forward is two motor, two back I don't want to fly it like a cross can this board do this? Cross I mean flying motor on each cide one front one back and one right and left. TY
Hey jcer, out of the box, this control board is setup for a "plus/cross" configuration. It can, however, be flashed over to fly any frame setup you desire (including a "X" config) but you're going to need a USBasp AVR programmer. They can be found on here for around $5 (Product ID:381000147). If you're getting in to multirotors, an USBasp programmer is one of those "must-have" tools. You can find directions on how to do this under the Files Tab. I'd recommend checking out the "Flashing your Multicopter Controller Boa" PDF listed there as it has all the directions you'll need. :D
I actually found the file XXcontrol_KR_XCopter_v2_5.hex so this would work? How would i find instruction programing after words? By the way i found this under file. Yes I have usb and got it installed on my Window 8.
Yes, that firmware will work. However, to really make this easy, the best thing to do is download the kkflashtool. Not sure if it's listed in the File Tab or not, but if you just google "kkflashtool", the first link will take you to a page where you can download the latest version of it (v0.72). Once you run that program, choose your flight control board (HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V2.1), the frame/setup you're running (Xcopter), and finally the firmware you want to load. If you scroll through the list, you'll find the latest version of XXcontrol KR, which is v2.9, or you can even opt to using Xcopter v4.7 KK by kapteinkuk. Either one will work, just a matter of preference. Once you have it flashed, under the Files Tab, download the "XXcontrol KR Setting Manual" PDF. It'll show you how to set everything up (calibrating the ESCs, checking the gyros, ect..) If you can, post a video once you getting it flying. :D
jcer93705, Yes There is firmware to fly in the X mode. Go to the files tab and select "Flashing your Multirotor Control Board". It will go through how to download the free flash tool. You will also need the USBasp tool to interface with your computer. These boards are capable of quite stable flight if you work with getting it dialed in. Hope this helps and happy flying!
Or, you can use the kkflashtool where you'll have a few choices of aeroplane firmware to choose from. One of which is the most recent version of what NTHK suggested in the Files Tab, Aeroplane XXcontrol KR v2.9. :D
Reece, you sure can. It makes my scratch built Extra 300 hover almost hands free (torque finally wins out over the ailerons). I have a camera plane with one of these in it too but mostly using it now in my 3D plane. Makes it fly on windy days like there is no wind. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
ok, things are going pretty good but i still cannot hover.
i have all the props going in the ccw direction. is this correct? i have flashed this board with tricopter version 1.6 by kapteinkuk. any info on this would be great. thanks in advance!!
Hey greg, just change the front left one to spin cw and you should be good to go. If you don't have much luck with that firmware, check out xxcontroller KR v2.9 (just Google it and you'll find it). I used it on a tricopter build a few months back and it was awesome. Once tuned, it was really stable. :D
Yes, switching the direction of that 1st motor to CW should help. Silly NTHK, it's a tri-copter, so no, you won't need 4 props. :P Also, greg, as a suggestion, you should give the Tricopter XXcontrol KR v2.9 a go. It's an optimized version of KK's firmware and incorporates a few neat features like stick centering and Acro mode. I used it awhile back on a Tri build and really liked the results. :D
ok. i switched the direction and prop of motor #1.
seemed like i had a little better control and then my servo motor died. LOL. spinning around the backyard. it was great!! i will also look for the 2.9 software.
thank you so much.
Good to hear it helped. :D Heh I love tricopters , they're so much fun to fly. I started off flying quadcopters until I had a bearing go out in a motor and decided to try something new with the other 3 motors. Since doing so, I haven't gone back. Not sure what size motors/frame you're running but a lesson I learnt early on is to only use metal gear servos. I went threw a handful of hxt-900s before I finally got around to ordering a proper metal gear one.
Hey gonzalez, In your video, I saw you set the yaw pot to zero, were you trying to calibrate the ESCs?
Hey gonzalez, dans la vidé*o, j'ai vu que vous dé*finissez le pot de lacet à* zé*ro, que vous essayiez de calibrer les ESCs?
Hi can someone please HELP ME!! I have this board hooked up with the stock " " configuration and all the motors spin the right way and gyros work good. My problem is that that when i slowly give it throttle all the motors spin for a second and then "M1" and "M3" cut out and stop spinning but "M2" and "M4" work fine. One of the only ways to get them all of the motors to spin is to quickly move the Throttle stick from 0 to 50% or more and then all the motors will spin up BUT "M2" and "M4" will spin much faster and if i lower the throttle under 50% "M1" and "M3" will cut out. The other way to get them all to spin is to trim the pitch 100% back and roll 170% to the left on the TX then all the the motors will spin up evenly. BUT at lower throttle 0 to 60% if i give to to much roll pitch or yaw 1 or 2 or 3 of the motors will cut out. For example if move the pitch stick forward "M1" will cut out and If a motor cuts out the only way to get them spinning again is kill the throttle and strt over. And i know it not the ESC,s or the Motors because if i bypass the board by turning off the yaw pot all the motors spin up fine and don't cut out at low throttle or high throttle. So if you have any suggestions please comment or tell me if you think a have a defective board. THANK YOU
Sounds to me like a calibration issue. Have you tried calibrating the throttle range? With the yaw pot set to zero, turn on your TX and give it full throttle. Now power up the board, after the initial ESC startup beeps, wait until you hear the ESCs beep a few times, then cut the throttle back to zero. You should then hear a few conformation beeps. Unplug power from the board, set the yaw pot back to around 50% and see if that helps. I'd also recommend reflashing your board. The stock firmware it ships with is quite dated. :D
Jordan have you been having this problem for a while now? IBeHoey speaks the truth. You should bite the bullet and get into flashing the 168PA. I am going to have to do the same thing when I try to set mine up for fixed wing and to see what it is capable of achieving with a tricopter build. It could be fun no? The USBasp is cheap and lots of people will help you get her done. Plus it is so easy to connect it to the ISP header on the board that it practically begs you to do it! It just takes going over a couple of videos on how to download the drivers for the USBasp and how to access the correct firmware you would like to use for your particular application and needs. Man its a whole 'nother world brother. You can have a USBasp shipped quick and cheap via EB** if you don't wish to wait for HK turnaround.
By chance, do you have an Arduino laying around? In a pinch you could use it to reflash the board. But as canterbury alluded to, if you're getting in to multirotors, you should really pick up an USBasp programmer. Also, having a FTDI/USB dongle laying around doesn't hurt either, had to wait a couple weeks once just to configure a GPS module. If reflashing the board is not an option, then I would recommend unplugging everything, and just start over from scratch. If you haven't already, download the manual from the files tab, and start from the beginning. Don't forget to set the trims and subtrims back to zero on your Tx as well. Another thing to consider, when you're powering the board using ESCs, it's always good practice to remove the red wire (from the 3 pin servo lead) in all but one of the ESCs. If you have an xacto knife, or a small pin, you can lift up on a small tab and pull the wire out of the plug. :D
Im going to say it sounds like you have a Gyro reversed. If the above solution from Mayhem does not work, try the gyro reversal as per the instructions in the files tab. I went through the same issue. I think it was the yaw Gyro from memory
thank you. i moved servo plug but no difference.
reversed yaw gyro and no more clockwise silliness. But now it won't come straight off the ground. lots of backing up and side to side. making progress!?
OK, now you will need to follow the proceedure for trimming the Gyro sensitivity. It will help to turn your stick throws down to around 50% as it will be very twitchy. As it gets closer, give a short burst of throttle to get at least a metre off the ground to clear prop wash and ground effect (Turbulence), then you can fine tune your trims. Also check all your trims are zero'ed prior to starting (should have said that first) lol
Depending on your transmitter type, you should have the ability to adjust Stick throws, which is effectively, how much servo/ ESC movement occurs in reponse to how much you move the stick on the transmitter. By down to 50%, I mean, adjust the end points to 50%, so that for full stick travel, the quad will only respond by 50% of its output ability. Optionally, you could use expo or dual rates to achieve a similar outcome. it will just mean the quad wont be as twitchy if you are not able to have smooth stick movements. Adjust them back to 100% when you have it all trimmed nicely.
I can't find all the messages i had with NewToHobbyKing Getdopy and Waterlogged regarding arming control board V2.1 .. I got 5 message in my e.mail that said i got some relies .. can someone help me understand what happened
I think hobbyking deleted them. Sometimes that happens if one of the responses is flagged in their system. I think I was on that thread too and still am getting the alerts. What was the question again, maybe I can try and answer?
Thankyou jsrock and getdopy
I am having problem to arm control board v2.1
can u look at the video i made and put on www.link trasnmitter is on mode 1tx throttle and ail are on right hand side
Waterlogged suggested to clear all pots then set them again making sure that throttle and throttle trim is at zero .. i did this
getopy suggested to set servo above 120 on trasmitter .. i did this
As you can see in the video when i try to arm board .. led will flash fast and beep beep sound is continuous .. can you guys help me understand what i'm doing wrong
i can only tell you wat i did wen my board woldent arm wich was if you have mode 1. radio thr servo end points must be pasd 120 to arm ruder being on the left for me pull it down and right if your radio is in revers its up to the right it werked for me the throtel is at 0 that means trim to turn radio on plug in board and try this ruder down and to the right if you are mode 2 america try reversing
jrock thanks for your suggestment
after setting yaw gyro pot at zero checked throttle working
then i put at zero roll gyro pot for arming and that when i get the led flashing and beep beep
then i put all 3 gyro pot at 50% ( yaw, pitch and roll ) put still cannot arm
getopy and jsrock .. wow managed to get it working
i had aileron on right hand tx with throttle .. i changed wirng putting rudder with tx throttle always on right hand side .. then i increased rudder servo to above 120 .. and it worked good board now arms .. thankyou a lot for your help guys.
You can use the USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors PRODUCT ID: 9171000003. For the guide, click Files (Purple) tab just below the 5 crowns and click the link "Flashing your Multicopter Controller Boa 1973kb".
thank you very much for your answer!!
i had a frame built and ready.
i flashed with the kk multicopter tool.
everything seemed to go ok.
now i get a very limp response to whatever esc/motor i
have plugged in to m2. the other two motors and the servo for the rudder work just fine and are very responsive.
the esc/motors plugged into m1 and m3, work together.
if i run the throttle all the way up all three motors run.
as i am throttling down i get towards the bottom of the stick and the motor plugged into m2 just stops. i have tried switching but every thing that gets plugged into m2 has the same response.
After flashing, you will need to re-set everything up. Re-synchronise your ESC's, check all gyro directions, and re-calibrate Gyro trims as well. I had the same problem, and out of frustration, I started the entire setup process from scratch. Fixed the problem
Gonzalez the manual was under the Orange File Tab but other to say that the board comes configured in Plus setup and the tool you need to re flash it. The only other thing in the manual was picture 3. So to arm. We have started a topic on this board it the member forum (Blue tab on the top of page). Once the board is armed the LED, on the board, comes on and stays on. I have a Turnigy9XV2 Mode 1. To arm it on that TX, it is just the left lever down and to the right. (Make sure all props are off during this stage). You may have to adjust the yaw pot.
There is a manual under the "files" tab above that may be helpful. If you are asking about how to arm the quad usually it requires a left or right movement on the transmitter. The LED on the quad lights up when activated and turns off when disarmed. Hope this helps.
So what is the Arm process for a HKT6a V2 Tx and what mode is your Tx. Can you please place it here and in the Members Forum. It seem as if it is different "arms" for different Rc Systems. Also maybe the Mode effects it too!
One does not simply setup the plug on a lipo.... haha ok too much LOTR... I have done it and it requires the proper solder and solder gun. Be careful that the black and red wires never touch, that could destroy the lipo. Hope this helps.
getdopy, may I ask, have you programmed all your ESCs the same? Also did you do ESC throttle range calibration? These two things must be done to make all things equal. If you have done this and still have a lazy motor, you may want to flash it with a different version of firmware. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Michael no it is not that simple. The board comes setup as a PLUS configuration. There are other boards that cost more but much easier to use. The KK2.0 is very popular. So as IBeH says you must reprogram this board (Flash) to run X configuration.
Newtohobbyking. I just flashed this board with windows 7 and the usbasp programming cable. I found it amazingly easy. It literally took 2 minutes. The 2.0 or the i86 board may be overall easier because of the lcd screen or dip switches. But I found the process simple. I believe with a little research this board is simple and quite well balanced for both or x config. All I am saying is do some research Michael.
Michael good call. It is the way I would have gone if I had it to do over. No one told me that it does not fly X straight out of the box. No one told me you need a extra item to reconfigure. The KK2.0 with its LCD screen, makes it so easy. Good Flying!
Unless you're changing air frames around, or going from an X to a plus in the field, the only tool you'll need is a small screw driver to make adjustments to the small trim pots. Michael, you can pick up the AVR USBasp programmer here for around $5. Even though you might not need it now, going with the KK2 and all, but it's still a great little tool to have. Hey NTHK! When are we going to see that Quad fly? :D
Dean yes now you can start. I have made a Topic in the Members Forum. (Blue tab at top of page). Go to the forum. I sent you a private message (PM), inviting you. The topic is IN: Forum Home > MULTI-ROTOR Called: HK M-R Filght Controller V2.1 (Atmega168PA). So come chat. We can learn together!
These boards are great to work with for a variety of configurations. Personally I've been using them to stabilize fixed wing aircraft lately. This is because there are other boards that do a much better job and easier to set up for mustirotor.
Viktor the board comes as a PLUS configuration. If you want have it do X or and thing else then you need to buy the flash tool in Multi-Rotors & Parts > Accessories > USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors (SKU: 9171000003)
Viktor, Yes it does support X mode, but like NTHK said, it comes stock with plus mode. The plus mode that is stock is not that good either. If you flash it with plus mode, it is much better. I personally like X mode better. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Mustang but does the board ARM? I have a mode 1 TX. To arm the board I need to pull the left lever down and to the right. Hold it there till the light comes on, on the BOARD. Then the board is armed. (PLEASE REMOVE YOUR PROPS WHILE YOU ARE IN TESTING)
I hate to ask but can you be sure the controller is OK. There have been reports of some controller boards hitting the market after being rejected from assembly lines of manufacturers. I assure you many people are receiving faulty boards. I had one just last week. It was a KK2 I just powered it up with nothing connected except for 4.8 volts to the correct pin and earth to the correct pin exactly. The display didn't work so obviously faulty. I know some of these points are obvious but it can happen. Are you certain the receiver is bound and working. All your earth wires are to the edge of the board. Your battery is charged. You have followed the setup routine to the letter. It sometimes helps to find another source of the setup routine and follow it. Some systems including transmitters don't follow the Aileron, elevator, throttle, rudder setup, usually numbered 1 2 3 and 4. This board will handle hex setups so make sure your ESC cables start the correct end of the row of six sets of pins. Did you return your trim pots to 50% Do you know the board is definitely armed? The correct LED lit when you armed it and extinguished when you disarmed? Did you calibrate your ESCs. Please excuse me, I'm not trying to say you made a mistake but we've all done it before. It sounds as if you've had some experience but I've got to the stage of triple checking everything and even been through the setup again. Unfortunately the defunct controller is more common than it should be plus operator error usually covers the rest. I built a Bambu mini quad a few weeks ago and ended up with a bad ESC which took out the motor and controller. After replacing everything I found yet another motor was faulty. When one item is no good is hard enough to find but with two, maybe three it's hell. Give those things a check and let's see how you end up.
Has anyone flown one of these on a Tri using a Turnigy 4X radio? Everything looked good on the flash and yet I get no green light reguardless of trim or stick movements. No tail response from the servo after boot-up and the motors start at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. No gyro or other response either. Where should I start...
Ken I have a Quad. I am still in build stage. Firstly can you remove your props. Now do you know how to arm the board??? On my mode one it is left stick down and to the right. The board led then come on and stays on. Can we get to this place or not???
If you're going to fly a tri, load up the XXcontroller KR v2.9 firmware. It's great, and if you're using it, it'll be easier for me to help trouble shoot your problems. :D After loading up the firmware, there are a few things you need to do before your first flight. First, you'll want to center your sticks. With everything powered off, set your pitch pot to zero (apparently these boards vary as to which way you're supposed to turn the pot to get it at zero) on mine, I turn it clockwise all the way, yours may be the opposite. Okay, with the pitch pot set to zero, switch on your transmitter and make sure the trims are centered. Power up the board, the LED will flash 3 times really fast, ensure that your receiver powered up, then wait for the board to flash one more time. Power everything off, restore the pitch pot to about %50, and your sticks have now been centered. (This step could resolve your arming issue.) The next thing you'll want to do is calibrate the ESC's. To do this, set the yaw pot to zero, set the throttle to full on the transmitter, and then power up the board. It should flash 3 times, then it'll flash 3 more times. After this, your ESC's should beep a couple times, when they do, restore your throttle back to zero. The ESC should then beep again (confirming the calibration), and you can now power everything back off and restore the yaw pot back to %50. You'r ESC's have now been calibrated. (This step could resolve your 1/3 1/2 throttle issue.) After doing these steps, you should be almost ready for your first flight, after assuring your gyro is working right and doesn't need to be reversed, and that you have the channels set right. :D
I've been wondering the same thing myself so I thought I would do a little digging to find out. I believe the answer is no. Looking at the kkmulticopter website, under frames, I see a "SingleCopter" being listed but I don't think this is for a traditional FP/CP heli. I do believe it's referring to a VTOL style aircraft (saw a guy on youtube hovering something that looked like a beach ball.) Another reason I believe it's no is because I couldn't find any examples online of someone actually doing it. Surely, if it was possible, there would be examples of it online. Right?
Kalev, if this were in aeroplane mode, and your heli used a separate channel for the collective (not mixing with pitch and roll) it should work. The servo for the tail rotor would just connect to the yaw on the board.
Inti HobbyKing have them out for cleaning. They will be back soon. Some have return in other listings. So this board is quite simple. See pic 3. It does show you all the lay out. For more you can ask or do a net search. So can we help?
Inti, I noticed they were gone a few days ago but they are all back now. I suppose NTHK was right, and someone at HK decided it was time to do a load of files... I wonder what type of dryer sheets they use? Ha ha!
mamut1759, if you flash it with OpenAero, what I do is turn the gyros down until they stop jittering when the plane is perfectly still (on the bench). Then test fly it. If you get quick oscillations, on any of the axis, turn that gyro down until the oscillations go away.
Better Board than version 1 for almost the same price. I damaged V1 in a crash and then bought this one..
With V2 you can fly Hexacopter. Very easy to use and program with appropriate usb flash tool (from eBay)
If board had smd gyros instead of Piezo (for less drift) it would be a winner.
19 comments. Reply..
2 thumbs up!
Una pasada venia dentro de una cajita de goma espuma negra de esa prensada, la he usado para poner la tapa debajo de la placa para evitar las vibraciones y luego tapare todo el conjunto con el resto, en poder pongo fotos.
La placa esta ok con ese enbalaje no le puede pasar nada un 10 para hobbyking.
Los pines del motor M5 y M6 no están soldados, acordaros de soldarlos po si algún día hace falta y os toca desmontar todo.
The board works very well. Flashed it with the AVR programmer I obtained off ebay and worked like a charm. Maybe one of the downsides is the bottom of the board where the solder mounds are is slightly dirty. I'm not sure if this is from the flux that was used to solder the board or if its just poor quality control. Either way it is purely cosmetic and does not affect the functions of the board. Also keep in mind that when you are taking the board out of the foam box it arrives in, be sure to pull it straight out - as pulling it out at an angle will cause the vertical yaw gyro to bend. Had this happen to me, but I realized what was happening and bent it right back into place.
This board is a great deal for those starting out in multicopters. I think it's awesome that HK has these at such a low price. Other vendors charge $10 each just for the gyros. I couldn't stop laughing when the other vendors boards went from $80 to $40 once HK started selling these, and theirs are still one and a half times the price!!!. Now if HK would make one with mems gyros and camera compensation at a crazy low price they would dominate the multicopter comunity!!!.