I ran the Birbie 100A plus BEC in my Surge Crusher with 4S and 5S. Worked great with both 4S and 5S, and I can honestly say it ran cooler on 5S. They do say that more voltage means less amps needed, and we all know amps=heat=no good!!! Haha
Hi I hesitate with the Turnigy Marine 180A Brushless Boat ESC. I own a miss geico and I want to ride 6S with a 1500kv motor or 5s with a 2030 kv motor. Will this esc resist or should I take the turnigy marine 180 a. Thanks for your answers.
Dont think there is one ...I have a pair of these running side by side in a hydro it dose 88 Kmh looking at forum most people stick to 3 cell lipo, I have also followed advice in modify them from new.(as per discussion on forum works well).
They make a flying boat and it's not a good boat or plane
It's a great ESC for the cost, and is made by another company (not actually called Birdie), but is pretty much near the cost of getting it directly from the company anyways, so Hobbyking did a good job with this. Few things, unwrap the esc and add thermal grease between the cooling plate and esc because the contact is poor. DEFINITELY seal it with silicon or some other method if there is any possibility of water contact because it will be destroyed quickly otherwise. I only say this because some ESCs have survived after being submerged, but not this guy. Realistically, do not run anywhere near 200A or 7S for this thing. 120A and 5S is more realistic, otherwise it will burn up. Look, if you are going to run a high amp or high voltage setup, you should be spending more than ~$35 for an esc anyways.
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I bought one of these to use in a Traxxas Spartan that I built from a bare hull. I har read of some issues with this specific ESC. More like it not programing, or not working after initial power up. Here is what I found.
1-Took off heat shrink and found cooling plate to be touching 2 our of 3 motor leads.
2-FET's are not level so cooling plate only makes contact with some.
The way I fixed the issues was by sanding the FET's with 120 grit sand paper wrapped around cooling plate to make sure they were all level. Next I applied silicone cooling paste, instead of the "heat transfer tape" that came from the factory, to each FET and installed the cooling plate making sure it wasn't touching any of the motor leads. I them "plastic dipped" the entire ESC to ensure complete waterproofing.
After drying for 1 day I soldered 5mm connectors, applied power, and programed the ESC for 4S. It took programing on first try. It runs flawless with an XK 4082 1600KV motor. I only ran it on 4S so far, but will run it on 6S shortly. On 4S it was cool as if it had never been ran.
I will shortly be ordering at least 2 more. The only reason I gave 3 starts for quality was because of the issue with the cooling plate and uneven FTE's.
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I have 2 running in my Apparition-II Offshore Brushless RC Twin Hull w/ Twin motor (800mm) they stayed very cool and the boat went very well until one motor died. I have to give the speed controller 5 stars it preformed perfectly and was easy to program.
Try to select options by pressing stick in brake/reverse (front) position and hold it, then you'll come in the submenue. If you hear the music sequence you want to change, pull to full throttle and hold. After that you'll automaticly fall back in option menue and you can start again.
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I was amazed that I could get this much esc for so little price. Opened mine up and filed down some solder for the motor leads. The manufacturer uses a low quality heat transfer tape ao after waterproofing esc use a high quality high density heat transfer paste and you are good to go. Easy to program and works well. I,ll chime in when it pops.