Most probably the motor inside is not capable of supporting this much acceleration and deceleration under load. Acceleration or deceleration means extra torque, extra current. Which is related with load inertia/motor inertia ratio. When this ratio increases, acceleration and deceleration decrease or vice versa. Or secondly, the controller could be programmed to behave like that. Instead of oscillating around the desired speed curve, it may be programmed to reach it's top speed slowly without oscillating.
I watched the video about this servo and I have a question. Why does is start and stop so slowly? The speed of rotation increases at start and decreases at end. Why? Can I force it to start and stop fast?
Just opened the winch and there is a groove for the o-ring on the gear that connects to the winch, BUT THERE IS NO O-RING PLACED. Hobbyking: can you can contact your supplier? it is no extra effort to put in an o-ring, and would make the product much better!!!!!!!!!
1. Does the servo have an o-on the top grar to avoid that water comes into the servo on the upper part?
2. Any other data on whether the winch is waterproof?
3. Anyone has a scheme/drawing with all the parts?
4.If ther is no o-ring, would there be space to put an o-ring?
is there a place to get a replacement horn for this servo?
mine came with half of the midel partion missing . it woold take to long to send it back and wait for a replacement. mean wail i could not sail.
Just got mine yesterday but when I plug it in to my receiver it twitches and then it doesn't spin? I have taken it apart and every thing was in place the problem is the drum only spins one way and my local hobby shop can't fix it and I need to order another one! I guess it didn't make shipping in one piece
Thanks tatolazo for the warning.. The dimensions are a lot less than the standard B1226 supplied in the Shunbo boats as sold here (Monsoon, Legend, Phantom, Surmount and Sailor. Search EEBhay for B1226 and you'll find the Batan B1226 for a reasonable price.
Thanks for all that, nice to hear from an informed source.. I use mainly B1226 as they do a remarkable lasting job in Shunbo boats ( maybe 4-6 seconds deploy rate, depending on conditions) and as all of us here sail the same type it is fair enough.. we aren't breaking records. I use one Hitec and it seems about the same in all respects. But dearer. Hadn't thought to use alcohol, make sperfect sense.. will do so if ever it's needed again.. (Happens) but like you say, dry hull is the only safe answer. Seems to me the water ingress is around the servo drive shaft.. the "o" ring end plate seals are fine.. (tested). But the fluted shaft is a hard one. Thanks again.
i am in to R/C Model Warship Combat, where the object is to sink each other (and as an unarmed transport catain, I get sunk a lot) in water from 6' to 30' deep (we use a float and recovery line to retrieve the ships, no worries).
What works well for me is to 3M Scotchkote the electronics board (DO NOT use tool-dip or liquid electrical tape as, over time, they will delaminate and make things worse). You can also drill a hole in the case and fill with Corrosion-X, which works pretty well.
What some battlers do is drill a hole and put a little Corrosion X in the bottom of the dervo to cover the board. On a sink, open the plug, dump out water, flush with alcohol and let dry - also at the end of a day of battle.
Sealing the gear end is a bit tougher- an O-ring and some silicone or lithium grease can help, by the way.
It is amazing how water will come in - it can even wick in through the servo leads under the insulation.
Splash resistant servo - relatively easy.
Waterproof to 3'-6' (1m to 2m) - not too hard for short periods.
Waterproof to 33'(10m), where the water pressure is trying to force water in at about 14PSI, especially for extended periods (like waiting for the batttle to end so you can retrieve your ship - maybe 2-3 hours) is pretty darned difficult.
Replacements in the kit to swap out - a truly good idea.
1 thumbs up!
The drum will NOT fit on the output shaft of the servo, two different diameters.
The drum diameter is very small, compared to other brands of winch servos.
The servo slows down to a crawl when reaching the desired stop point and end points (see video). This is not acceptable for a racing sailboat, maybe for a "casual" sailboat where precision control is not needed. Or this might be desirable for camera pan/tilt setup.
FYI, this would be classified as a 6 turn winch (depending on your radio system and settings).
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I bought this winch to adjust sail trim on a powered kite. It works good. I like the feature that brakes the drum gradually rather than abruptly. The spline is metal. I would prefer to see a mating metal hub instead of plastic on the drum.
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A total disaster! Powered by just 4.8v, smoke came out of the servo and the servo lead became hot. I took the case apart and found several components on the servo board burnt out. HK asked if I would supply a VIDEO (!) to prove it was faulty before they would accept a return. Nice! I suggest you look elsewhere for a sail winch.