The Hobbyking Tuff Trainer is the ideal choice for the new RC pilot, a trainer needs to have certain qualities to be really good at the job it is intended for, so it is perhaps fortunate that supermodel good looks is not one of them, what it lacks in glamour, this model more than makes up for in performance, toughness, practicality & value for money.
The Tuff Trainer is exactly that, a combination of almost un-breakable EPP foam, band secured wing and carbon fibre spars means that, should the worse happen, this model will bounce and then bounce back for more. In the unlikely event that you do manage to break it, a little cyano glue and a few minutes patience will be all thats needed to have you grinning again.
The Hobbyking Tuff Trainer is Plug-and-Fly(PNF), so motor & ESC are pre-installed. Note that the prop mounts with a prop saver just in case you have a less than perfect landing. Good quality 8g servos are pre-installed and quality hardware tops of the list of essential must haves that are included with this kit. A trainer should be easy to fly; the combination of high angle of dihedral and high lift thick section wing make the Hobbyking Tuff Trainer a very stable, forgiving flyer, with excellent slow fly capability that does not lack the single most important factor.............FUN!
Everyone I answered a question and Waterlogged replied to my answer and said ""What a dumb answer. Why would this plane be a good candidate for flaps? It's a SLOW FLYER and a trainer. PLUS where would one place the flaps, on the elevator""So I am asking is it a DUMB answer? Flaps of NOT Please?
What a dumb answer. Why would this plane be a good candidate for flaps? It's a SLOW FLYER and a trainer. PLUS where would one place the flaps, on the elevator? There is only about 3 inches on the end of each main wing. An excellent reason for being absolutely hopeless for a flap job. Just another dumb question and a dumber answer. Orchestrated by Kellyann, scammer. Click on Delst's name and see many more autoscam questions, all asked, answered and paid by Kellyann. Can anyone check the IP addresses of these two and many more.
Go away Kellyann. Bunging on another big act are you. There is no such thing as VA in Australia. Being a supposed ex service woman (which I doubt) you would know that it's DVA. Ignore her people, she's been scamming HK and now she's crawling. Kellyann, you were given advice by CS, kindly abide by it. This act is rather sickening. I see your total has risen 185 in only 3 days, truly amazing. Especially after raising mine 80. I've requested HK to drop it back to where it was before you started playing games with it.
waterlogged I spoke to CS about you again. They said they would be watching both of US. They said just be nice to you and send copies of your replies to them. So thanks. I never said I was EX service. I said my Dad was in the RAAF. Do you know what DVA stands for??? Department of VA!!!!! MMMM. I really think VCS could help you with your HATE issues. Please if I can help in any way I will. Sorry you HATE me, we all only have LOVE for you Thanks again for serving. But the war is over!! As always nice to chat
I'm afraid you're way behind times Rd. NewToHobbyKing is the new Kellyann. Only been here 6 weeks and got 4000 points already. Still making out it's a female from Australia. Ever heard of a supposed female from Australia registered on Ebay as Jasper That's the dumb first name he picked for a female. Must be all those cartoons and kids movies they go mad for in India. Kellyann was kicked off this forum some time back. Then came back as Allison and HobbyKing kicked him off again. Now he's back as NewToHobbyKing. Still the same garbage answers and the crawling tactics. Bad spelling, poor lower class India grammar. Hasn't a clue about RC, dosn't even own a plane but reckons she's got everything HobbyKing sells but in all of 30 months has,nt even got past being a Gold member. Nobody seems to have the guts to complain about him except me. He couldn't give a damn about Aussies and never has. Look him up on RCIndia His real name is Kalyan Prodhan, funny about that first name. Strange too he is still using Kellyann Harvay and kellyanndog for an email ID. Just to be smart he even changed his address to Kelyann's fake address in Brisbane and then changed it back to Sydney. Actually raised her pints score by 500 whilst posting to me to prove he could do it then did the same to me. He honestly thinks he's one of the Untouchables.
Yes, but they're only marginally effective, due to the high dihedral angle of the wings. I removed the servos and fixed the ailerons in place with split toothpicks, glued to the trailing edge. I fly the model Rudder/Elevator/Throttle only.
I'd recommend you stick with the recommended size though I would guess it would be fine with a 1000mah judging from the size of the aircraft. You won't overstress the motor and ESC by putting excessively large batteries in it but you will create weight problems that may need correcting for Centre of Gravity purposes. Having said that Flitetest (see their youtube channel review of this plane) said it is nose heavy so a bigger battery might help. Whatever Mah battery you choose you must stick t
800mAh battery gives 10 min flying time. It just fits with a 20 mm square piece of foam rubber in front of it to act as shock absorber for crashes. A heavier battery will do more damage in a crash and also will need tail weight to maintain CG.
I have a 1300 mAh bat will send you the dimension later. If you go bigger then the best would be to remember about the esc temp. Move this from inside to outside or like me I just made a hole in the front of the plane as the esc got a little too hot. My boy loves this plane and with the 1300 bat he goes fast as he can
As a general point about extra weight, whatever the aircraft, you have three considerations: balance, speed and space. Most foam planes have limited space inside for a bigger battery, so you may have to remove foam to fit the battery. The balance (COG) point must not be changed by the extra weight of the battery otherwise you will affect the flying characteristics. Finally, speed will be affected. A heavier aircraft needs to fly faster to lift the load. It therefore needs to land faster, so the strength of the airframe needs to be suitable. Because of the extra speed required you need more power, so by doubling the battery you won't get twice the flight time. But to end on a positive note, I double up the batteries and add cameras without any problems.
This plane can take a fair bit of extra weight. I've stuck 1600s in, as well as 4 LEDs and wiring, and two keychain cameras. This plane flies much better with an 8x3.8 prop as well instead of the 8x4 GWS style one. Lots more go and similar flight times
Buy regular elastic bands from Bunnings, news agent, supermarket etc. I even use the ones that the postie uses to bundle my mail. Start at one screw with one end of the rubber band and wrap it fairly tightly back and forth around the propeller until there is none left then loop the last end on a screw. Works a treat and is practically free.
Maumy, I would go for the Tufftrainer, but change the motor down angle to 2 - 3 deg., take off the undercarriage and use it as a belly lander. Wrap duct tape around the fuse behind the motor. Never fly in windy conditions
I have a problem with the ESC. It won't start up as normal on ch3 (mode1). I can get it to work on other channels. Once it has worked I switch over to ch3 and it works. But next time I want to start up again, it doesn't work again.
I'll assume you got all the bits needed to fly?
It depends on your receiver, but my speed controller plugs into the 3rd channel. Do this, then turn on your transmitter and plug your battery in. Then plug your servos in one at a time and wiggle the sticks until you've got the right setup. My ailerons (Y lead) go in channel 1, elevator in channel 2 and rudder in channel 4.
Hope this helps!
You can use separate channels if you have a transmitter that can mix the channels. Often beginners start with a pretty basic radio that doesn't have the option of mixing channels on the same input. Personally I prefer to just keep it simple with the y-lead and use extra channels for cool stuff. Like night light switches!
I'm thinking of getting one of these, as I haven't flown my Pitts since I almost destroyed it in a really nasty nose dive crash. probably wasn't the best choice for a first plane :)
Couple of questions:
1 - Is this a good plane to learn on?
2 - For more advanced stuff later on (when I have a bit more stick-time) is it possible to mix the aileron servos as flaperons? I have the Turnigy 9X remote. I'd like to get the hang of using flaps on a more resilient model before I get myself a nice big warbird (again not until I have a lot of flying time under my belt, but my dream plane is a large scale Spit or Mustang)
Being a high wing plane, with lots of dihedral, the ailerons don't do a hell of a lot with this plane. Especially on mine, which flexes even more because I've pushed the limits of what this can do (I could fix it with some packing tape along the underside of the wing). Programming the flapperons is pretty simple with the 9x. I won't go into the nitty gritty about how to do it here, because there are lots of video tutorials that are better at that.
DingDuck, this is a tough plane, but not a good trainer, too much down angle on the motor. You have to fix that first. Ailerons work well as flaps. It doesn't like any wind at all. I recommend the Bixler as a trainer
I'd heartily disagree SigiK. The Tuff is an excellent trainer. Granted, winds above about 15kmh will knock it around, but I don't know many beginnners who'd fly in wind that strong anyway. The downthrust on the motor helps prevent/recover from stalling due to bad turns. Trimmed out properly, the downthrust isn't an issue. The Bixler, being EPO, warps after a few crashes and becomes unusable after a (short) while. It's a great plane, and good for beginners, but the Tuff is much more durable and fixable. EPP tears off in large-ish chunks and doesn't warp, making it easy to glue back together.
Hi KingDuck. I think this is an excellent model plane for beginners to learn on. Once 'dialled-in' (balance and trim correct) it's 'free-flight-stable'. Mine launches itself off short grass and climbs away straight at a little more than half-throttle, with no assistance from yours truly. It will straighten itself out from most attitudes as soon as you release the sticks. Don't bother with the ailerons. The wing has too much dihedral for them to be effective. Connect the rudder servo to the aileron channel on your receiver and let the 'roll/yaw coupling' (aerodynamic) effect work it's magic. Trim the elevator for a nice, flat 'power-off' glide and you can fly it on throttle and rudder alone. Keep it light! The recommended 800mAH battery will give novices more than enough flight time, particularly if they can resist using full throttle.
ESC overheated and failed at first battery hook up.
1 roll servo failed during second flight.
Rudder servo failed during 4th flight.
Motor draws large amount of current allowing only 2 minute flights on various new 800ma batteries.
Motor is about to be replaced.
Flying performance is good and it is getting better as the various components are replace.
Very little prop clearance from ground during take off and landing. Prop saver works but there is only so much it can do. Suggest buying spare 6 pack of props (GWS EP-8040) and 10 pack of o-rings.
While I like the plane, the foam is durable and the flight characteristics are good the low quality components fitted as standard really let it down.
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Placed my order on Wednesday 27/7/11 at 6:16pm and it arrived first post Friday 29/7/11.
Well packed but fuse tail is a bit bent where it was pressed against the wing in the box. All parts were there except I need a Y cable for the aileron servos to operate them with one channel (didn't notice that in the model list). Don't have one and there's no model shop where I live so I mixed a couple on my 6 channel set so I can operate both ailerons using one channel with them plugged into two channels - hope it works as I am a complete noob and this is my first plane.
Tailplane refuses to be horizontal/perpendicular, probably as a result of bend in tail fuse. Dunno if it'll make a difference with flying it. Having problems with my cyano, I think it's too old, so flying will have to wait for a while.
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Had to bend the push rods for elevator and rudder to make them easier to move. Even so, burned out the 2 servos before even getting into the air. Did more work on the rods. Ordered more servos, see what happens next.
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I received this very quickly and was simple to put together but ESC was stuffed from the start and lucky enough i only live about 3 mins from the sydney shop. They replaced it for me and we were away. Replaced motor with a bigger one and flys nice and easy. Should be good one to give to a mate if he wants a fly..
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A great, easy to fly trainer. I've been out of flying these things for 3-odd years and found my old P51 a little bit of a handful. A couple of key things let this plane down however... I had the rudder servo die on first power up. Thankfully on the ground. I was a little astounded that the y cable wasn't included too... Especially when you have to wait for delivery from Hong Kong if you order with your plane. There's also only so much a prop saver can do for a newbie/rusty pilot... Even one extra prop would be a nice touch. And some glue...
My recommendation to buyers is to replace the servos immediately and make sure you have a y cable and a few rubber bands handy. To Hobbyking I'd make the product a little more expensive and more beginner friendly by upgrading the standard servos and including the y cable, an extra prop and a big fat tube of glue.
Still a top plane to (re)learn on