Anyone had problems with the aileron foam hinges, mine look just about non existent, new out box, very little foam holding them on, full of holes, it's like they removed to much foam and only just hanging on by paper thin foam or less. Anyone got any suggestions on how to fix this thanks
Hi Paul, There's pros and cons for the hinge design. The pros are mainly the lack of hinge gap (air leak between upper/lower surfaces) gives better flying characteristics. The cons .... you get about 10-12 flying sessions in before cracks/separations start appearing, usually at the outer ends where the ailerons take the most abuse from rough landings, tumbles, etc. I've built 5 Reaktors (wear out one every 6 months or so) and no longer wait for the hinge cracks to appear. I epoxy or CA 3 short strips (outer end, center, inner end) of tough cloth (fiberglass, nylon, etc.) across the hinge line on each wing half. Lasts the whole life of the plane and is still in place when it's time to bin the plane and build a new one. Cheers, EA!
Hi Wheelnut, By "don't sell here" do you mean the US or international warehouse? The D2822/14 is available in both (I just checked), but there's been some changes in the US and it's sold thru what is being called the US Western warehouse. Search PRODUCT ID: D2822-141450 and you'll find it. Cheers, EA!
What wil be the ulimate setup for flight time vs power on 3s?
Have a few nano tech 950mah 3s here on the bench so want to use these.....
Hope someone can give me a working setup (servo/motor/esc/prop) combo
Hi mvdenzen, I've been flying Reaktors for a few years and have tried lots of set-ups. The best set-up I've found is the D2822/14 motor, 20A BlueSeries ESC, 8x3.8SF prop, and a 3S LiPo. I've used various LiPos including the 950mah/3S nano-tech which is a good choice for the long flight times and lots of power available. My favorite LiPo is the 610mah/3S Rhino packs which are much lighter but also give shorter (5-6 min) flights. With your LiPos and the motor/ESC mentioned above you'll get 8-9 minutes of 3D flying. Cheers, EA!
Hi mvdenzen, I forgot to answer your other question regarding best glue. I usually use epoxy: 5-minute for the smaller parts like the tail feathers and 20-minute for the larger surfaces like the main wing to fuselage joint. I've never had a joint fail, as epoxy is reasonably flexible and has incredible grip. Cheers, EA!
What glue is people using for assembling this EPP model? I have heard about Foam-Tac, welder's glue, uhu por, Goop that are great for EPP but couldn't find any in HK's warehouse. Are there anything in HK that resemble any of these glues? Thanks for info.
Hi eaglecliff, EPP is compatible with almost every adhesive out there, but some work better than others. CA (even foam-safe CA) tends to make the joint a bit brittle, so the joint fails as the EPP flexes in a minor crash. UHU, Goop, and other similar glues work well but take a long time to cure, so the building process takes longer. I usually use epoxy: 5-minute for the smaller parts like the tail feathers and 20-minute for the larger surfaces like the main wing to fuselage joint. I've never had a joint fail, as epoxy is reasonably flexible and has incredible grip. Cheers, EA!
Thanks guys for the info, good to know EPP will stick with most glues. EA good logic on the CA brittleness hence my looking into a flexible glue. Bobo I have also liked the glue you recommended which had kinda rubber texture, should work good with flexible EPP in a crash situation.
I have ordered 2 nano-tech 850mah and 2 Rhino 750mah batteries for this plane. Do you think that I would be able to setup the plane so I can go back and forward between the two sizes batteries or that is a bad idea?
I also have OrangeRX RX3S 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer 6CH Receiver (PRODUCT ID: 9171000185). It has on/off switch and I was thinking it might come in handy but maybe I need to lose a few grams of weight. What do you think?
Hi BoBo22, I've used both of those LiPos (I'm assuming 3S) in previous Reaktors with no problems. They're virtually the same weight, but the width/thickness are different. You'll have to remove quite a bit of foam from the battery slot to fit the 850mah which leaves the foam along the top of the slot very thin and it will break unless you reinforce it. I had some s****s of fiberglass tape that I epoxied along the top edge of the fuse over the slot and it held up pretty well. I've found that the best LiPo for the Reaktor with the D2822/14 set=up you're using is the Rhino 610mah/3S. It fits the slot with almost no cutting required and I get 5-6 minutes of 3D flying from them. At less than $4 each, they're a bargain. Cheers, EA!
Hi BoBo22, I forgot to answer your other question. A flight stabilizer? On a 3D plane? Sort of defeats the whole purpose of the plane's design, don't you think? If your flying skills are okay and you've flown anything beyond trainers then you won't have a problem with the Reaktor. Set it up with mild throws to begin with if you're a bit unsure of your skills. The plane is very stable, but it's not self-righting (like all aerobatic planes) the way a trainer is. You have to be flying it all the time, not watching it fly itself. If your skills are at the advanced level, you're in for a treat. The plane will do every trick in the book with no bad habits (tip stall, etc.) to watch out for. Cheers, EA!
Thanks EA! I will build and maiden the plane with 750mah first, and eventually will cut the slot bigger to fit the 850mah in there. Then I will have a foam piece to fill the gap when I go back to use the smaller batteries. Flight stabilizers? I like them. I am in Atlantic Canada and its windy here all the time. I usually stabilize only the rudder though. Perfect knife edges and easy landings every time. Anyways the plane arrived but unfortunately I won't have time to put it together for another few weeks. Cheers, Bobo!
Great flying little airplane. The thicker foam and carbon fiber keep the plane stiff enough not to twist the tail in mid-air as a lot of these little flat epp planes do. With a Turnigy AE-20 ESC, C20 2050kv motor, 9x6 EP prop, OrangeRC 6 chan reciever, 4 Hextronix HXT500 servos, a Nano-Tech 460ma battery and no landing gear mine is 300 grams and will hover at 1/2 throttle. I initially flew it with out the 'winglet' (yep, that's what they call it in the instructions) on the turtle deck and it flew very well, but wouldn't do an inverted flat spin. Adding the winglet made the plane pull one with ease, as well as knife edge effortlessly. The plane is very responsive to the control surfaces and a true joy to fly. Instructions were clear and build time was just over 4 hours. NOTE: The rudder and elevator use a string pull-pull setup, they send you some silky, lightweight cotton string. Frustrating to build and very cheesy. I used 2mm carbon fiber and some wire from the hobby shop to make push rods on mine. By placing the ESC all the way forward and looping the motor wires out of the way, I was able to slip the reciever into the pre-cut slot, place the battery into it's pre-cut slot, and have a perfect CG without the addition of any weight. Using the C20 and AE-20 ESC provides 6-8 min flight times with minimal heat buildup even in aggressive flying (Battery slightly warm but it's nested in the foam so that's not unexpected). The thick foam is very durable, I haven't crash tested min
This planes a 2cells li-po and you better use a 800mah battery, as for the motor the best one you could use is the HobbyKing 2612 Brushless Outrunner 1900KV(as suggested) and as for the ESC the TURNIGY Plush 10amp and 4 htx 500 it is my configuration and it is perfect :)
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Fantastic plane!!! Just finished the build and will fly tomorrow if the wind cooperates. Overall, this has been the best quality foamie I've come across in terms of design, fit, and finish. Every part was straight and fit like a glove. I have several of the Red Eagle foam planes and none of them compare in terms of stiffness and straightness of the individual parts or finished plane. The only complaint I have is the way the landing gear is attached. Flimsy little ply plates came loose the first time I flexed the the landing gear. I replaced them with 25mm x 35mm ply plates epoxied on and the landing gear is plenty strong. The recommended motor (HK2612) has plenty of power with 3S batts. Using a Rhino 610mah 3S, the plane weighs exactly 300g and literally leaps vertically with this motor/battery combo on a 8x4 prop. I file a flight evaluation later. Thanks HK for another great plane! Cheers!
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Okay, here's the flight report I promised. No wind and perfect flying conditions ... I'M IN LOVE WITH THIS PLANE!!! Trimmed out with just a few clicks of Elev/Aileron and flew like it was on rails. Very stiff with no noticeable flex at all. Hovers with almost no inputs, will turn 180 within a 1 metre space, flies same inverted as upright. Would do every 3D trick in the book if I knew how, yet it's just as happy to fly general pattern style. No tip stall at high or low speed. Landings can be as slow as you like, as it just settles down flat when air speed gets too low. Hand launches straight and true with no torque roll. When word gets out about what a bargain this plane is, HK won't be able to order enough stock. Cheers!
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A quick final note on some minor tweaks to my Reaktor. The little winglet on top is flimsy and flutters at high speed, so I added a 100mm long piece of .5mmx3mm CF strip to the top. Very stiff now and seems to improve the handling, especially when inverted. I've been switching between 3S Rhino 610mah and 750mah batts to see which weight/CG works best. The 750mah battery gives nice long flight times and perfect CG balance. AUW is 315g, but the plane still floats down to a crawl without losing lift and the extra power means awesome 3D capability. Cheers!