I have ordered 2 nano-tech 850mah and 2 Rhino 750mah batteries for this plane. Do you think that I would be able to setup the plane so I can go back and forward between the two sizes batteries or that is a bad idea?
I also have OrangeRX RX3S 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer 6CH Receiver (PRODUCT ID: 9171000185). It has on/off switch and I was thinking it might come in handy but maybe I need to lose a few grams of weight. What do you think?
I was planning on using the same setup (D2822/14, 20A BlueSeries ESC, nano-tech 850mah 25C-40C LiPo, four HXT900 servos). Because the 20A BlueSeries is backorder, my whole order is currently on hold. Should I be changing to different ESC in view of the four HXT900? If yes, which one is recommended?
Hi BoBo22, If you want to keep the HXT900 servos you will need an ESC with a 3A BEC to avoid overloading problems. The BlueSeries 30A ESC is a good choice: cheap, precise, bullet-proof. I've used all the BlueSeries ESCs from 12A-40A and love them. I don't know why the HXT900 servos have such high current draw, but I lost a plane that had 4 of them on it and figured out in hindsight that the BEC circuit had been running right at the max capacity and must have finally fried. Cheers, EA!
Hi Ohad, I fly the same set-up you have (D2822/14, 20A BlueSeries ESC) and I have used the nano-tech 850mah 25C-40C LiPo with no problems. If you're having running problems I think your servos may be the problem. If you're running four HXT900 servos you may be pulling too much current for the ESC's BEC circuit. the 20A BlueSeries ESC has a 2A BEC, but the HXT900 servos pull over 0.5A each, so you're pushing the BEC circuit past its limit. If you have a slightly larger ESC like a 30A, try substituting it temporarily and see if the running problems go away. Then you know the servos/ESC combination is the problem. Regarding other battery choices, I've found that the Rhino 610mah 20C is a great match for you set-up. They're lighter and cheaper than the nano-tech packs, but still give 5-6 minute flights. Cheers, EA!
Hi Muhd, The only downside to using a larger than necessary ESC is the added weight. You won't draw any additional current than what the motor is rated for so it won't hurt the motor or the ESC. My general rule-of-thumb is to use a ESC that's rated 20% higher than the max motor current rating to ensure a bit of safety margin. For example, If the motor has a max current rating of 15A, you would want to use at least a 18A ESC to avoid possible ESC problems during long full throttle periods. Hope this helps you make your decision. Cheers, EA!
Hi marcman, I haven't used the C2028 1400kv motor, so I can only go by the specs in making a call on its suitability for the Reaktor. Based on the 90W rating, it probably has enough power to fly the Reaktor for most aerobatics and may be able to hover it at close to full throttle. However, it won't have the extra pop needed for the full-on 3D flying that the Reaktor is capable of. I've been through half a dozen different motors on 4 different Reaktors in the past few years. Anything less than 150W just feels weak/mushy compared to the D2822/14 1450kV motor that I've used on the last 2 Reaktors. Only a bit heavier (38g) than the C2028, but the 1/2-throttle hover and rocket shot verticals are awesome and the motor is bullet-proof. Cheers, EA!
Hi marcman, What did you decide on the C2028? Regarding the points, keep in mind that they're only worth $.01 each which makes their total value a whopping $41.20. Spread that out over all the orders I've place over the years and it means I've saved less than a buck per order, but HK's prices are so good I'm not complaining. Hobby shop prices here in Oz are triple the HK prices. Cheers, EA!
Sorry Aussie I used to get notified when someone responded to me , I don't seem to anymore.
Haven't decided yet , thought I would build it first and see how heavy it end up. Also I was reading
above about your BEC discussion, why are they so limited ,many applications require 4 servos ?
What's the smallest size ESC that puts out 3 amps ?
Hi marcman, The current capacity of the BEC circuit in an ESC usually increases with the ESC current capacity. On the BlueSeries ESCs, the 20A has a 2A BEC, the 30A has a 3A BEC, etc. It's logical that a larger ESC is going to be used on a larger plane needing larger servos requiring a larger BEC. My BlueSeries 20A ESC handles 4 servos fine, but they draw .3A-.35A each keeping the total well under 2A. The problem I was discussing above is regarding the HXT900 servos having a very high max current which is much higher than a servo that size should draw. I stopped using them for that reason. Cheers, EA!
Great flying little airplane. The thicker foam and carbon fiber keep the plane stiff enough not to twist the tail in mid-air as a lot of these little flat epp planes do. With a Turnigy AE-20 ESC, C20 2050kv motor, 9x6 EP prop, OrangeRC 6 chan reciever, 4 Hextronix HXT500 servos, a Nano-Tech 460ma battery and no landing gear mine is 300 grams and will hover at 1/2 throttle. I initially flew it with out the 'winglet' (yep, that's what they call it in the instructions) on the turtle deck and it flew very well, but wouldn't do an inverted flat spin. Adding the winglet made the plane pull one with ease, as well as knife edge effortlessly. The plane is very responsive to the control surfaces and a true joy to fly. Instructions were clear and build time was just over 4 hours. NOTE: The rudder and elevator use a string pull-pull setup, they send you some silky, lightweight cotton string. Frustrating to build and very cheesy. I used 2mm carbon fiber and some wire from the hobby shop to make push rods on mine. By placing the ESC all the way forward and looping the motor wires out of the way, I was able to slip the reciever into the pre-cut slot, place the battery into it's pre-cut slot, and have a perfect CG without the addition of any weight. Using the C20 and AE-20 ESC provides 6-8 min flight times with minimal heat buildup even in aggressive flying (Battery slightly warm but it's nested in the foam so that's not unexpected). The thick foam is very durable, I haven't crash tested min
This planes a 2cells li-po and you better use a 800mah battery, as for the motor the best one you could use is the HobbyKing 2612 Brushless Outrunner 1900KV(as suggested) and as for the ESC the TURNIGY Plush 10amp and 4 htx 500 it is my configuration and it is perfect :)
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Fantastic plane!!! Just finished the build and will fly tomorrow if the wind cooperates. Overall, this has been the best quality foamie I've come across in terms of design, fit, and finish. Every part was straight and fit like a glove. I have several of the Red Eagle foam planes and none of them compare in terms of stiffness and straightness of the individual parts or finished plane. The only complaint I have is the way the landing gear is attached. Flimsy little ply plates came loose the first time I flexed the the landing gear. I replaced them with 25mm x 35mm ply plates epoxied on and the landing gear is plenty strong. The recommended motor (HK2612) has plenty of power with 3S batts. Using a Rhino 610mah 3S, the plane weighs exactly 300g and literally leaps vertically with this motor/battery combo on a 8x4 prop. I file a flight evaluation later. Thanks HK for another great plane! Cheers!
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Okay, here's the flight report I promised. No wind and perfect flying conditions ... I'M IN LOVE WITH THIS PLANE!!! Trimmed out with just a few clicks of Elev/Aileron and flew like it was on rails. Very stiff with no noticeable flex at all. Hovers with almost no inputs, will turn 180 within a 1 metre space, flies same inverted as upright. Would do every 3D trick in the book if I knew how, yet it's just as happy to fly general pattern style. No tip stall at high or low speed. Landings can be as slow as you like, as it just settles down flat when air speed gets too low. Hand launches straight and true with no torque roll. When word gets out about what a bargain this plane is, HK won't be able to order enough stock. Cheers!
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A quick final note on some minor tweaks to my Reaktor. The little winglet on top is flimsy and flutters at high speed, so I added a 100mm long piece of .5mmx3mm CF strip to the top. Very stiff now and seems to improve the handling, especially when inverted. I've been switching between 3S Rhino 610mah and 750mah batts to see which weight/CG works best. The 750mah battery gives nice long flight times and perfect CG balance. AUW is 315g, but the plane still floats down to a crawl without losing lift and the extra power means awesome 3D capability. Cheers!