I realize this is quite an old question, but leaving a response here for anyone else who, like me, have tried this configuration on their own:
I have tried these ESC's (HK SS 40A) on those motors (D2830-11 1000kv), however I used a homemade control board. As far as the ESC / Motor combo go however, these things will work fine BUT be prepared to spend some time doing trial & error while programming these things appropriately.
The programming mode is simple, but tedious and time consuming. Basically you have to walk through a 'menu' of beeps which represent programmable options, and use the throttle stick to 'select' your choices. Instructions for programming are in the 'Files' section here. Understandable that there isn't much of a better way to do this, but expect to get sick of the 'boo boo boop song'
There are two versions of this ESC, one with four programming options and the other with six. Programming instructions can be downloaded from the Files tab in the device listing for the International Warehouse. When I programmed my 4-opt version for a 3s Lipo it was giving premature LVC. Manufacturer advised programming for NiMH which works. LVC is approx 9 volts with this setting.
This ESC has NO BEC. It will NOT power your RX or servos. You WILL have to have another battery or voltage reg to use it and being so small, weight will usually prohibit another battery and using a voltage reg with it is senseless too. If it was >100A I would understand it not having a BEC. I personally can't think of anything it is good for. Defiantly look for a ESC with BEC in this ampere range for 99.9% of hobby applications.
This type of esc is not totally senseless. If you are running more than four servos then it is safer to use a ubec than rely on an esc's built in bec. If anything ever happens to your esc you will still have power to all your servos to hopefully land safe. This is especially useful for smaller fpv platforms which used receiver power for camera and servo control.
If anything, as long as one knows what they're doing, this is a pro rather than a con, at least for multi-rotor builds. When you need 4 identical ESC's, there's no point in all of them having a BEC when you only need one (or need one at all, if your control board doesn't already have one on it). It does make wiring a little easier, but I'd still rather have the cheaper price and lower weight offered by these being opto only.
the servo lead from the esc will go in the throttle port and your ubec or receiver pack will go in the battery port. Without a ubec the voltage from whatever pack you used was not decreased so something was going to get hot and in your case it was the battery. A ubec will regulate the voltage of your pack so it is usable to power the receiver which in turn powers your servos, it also dissipates the excess heat from the voltage regulation so your speed control and other components stay cool while operating.
I have 3 of them and they work fine.They do not have BEC they need a seperate battery for receiver.If you don't have a batt plug on receiver,you can get a y connector,hook it to your throttle and 1 to ESC and 1 to 4aa batteries or 6 volts minimum. Hope this helps.
Aniello, STOP already... Plug in a bec into a separate channel ( or use a Y cable, maybe some splicing.) Haven't bought this, but if battery voltage is applied to the throttle cable, be sure to cut the or you'll nuke your rx.
I tried it on my hk-450, It has no governor and it has limited throttle travel it starts at 25% and hits full speed at about 70-80% Its not the best but IT WILL WORK! Just not that great. I would suggest one with a BEC and gov.
Buyers need to be aware that there are two versions of this ESC, one with four programming options and the other with six. The one I received has four. You cannot tell by the markings so download both. Start the programming procedure and let it cycle through the available options to see how many there are. Programming instructions can be downloaded from the Files tab in the device ad for the International Warehouse.
It sounds like you either have a short somewhere or you have a bad connector between your battery and esc. First check to make sure your connections are not touching each other and if they're not touching then go through and check your connector joints. If there is still a huge voltage draw then you probably have a bad esc. Hope this helps.
I don't know what Opto means, but from what others have told me it just means it doesn't have a BEC. Timing can be set to a low or high value, a higher timing will usually give higher power at the cost of more current consumption (and possibly overheating a motor), low timing results in less power but better efficiency. A mid range timing is usually the best.
Opto means that the circuit of the ESC is "optically" coupled using light emitting through a slit and a mosfet circuit looking at the slit to recieve the signal. This way higher power can be passed through to the circuit without causing glitches. Since the circuit works in this way, it is not possible to also send power through for use in powering the receiver/servos* it only works the motor.
"Opto" means optically isolated. A ESC is a switching circuit that pulses, in sequence, the windings of the motor. The width of the pulses changes to change the speed of the motor. PWM means pulse width modulation. When the motor is pulsed on it draws high current. Optical isolation prevents these current spikes from getting back to the receiver and causing interference and glitches. This is more important for high current ESCs like this one. Opto ESCs have no BEC. So you must use a seperate source to power your receiver and servos.-Like a UBEC or battery
Respectfully it does* that is part of what OPTO means for BEC. The speed control unit deals only with the electric motor and serves a function (like a servo), it does not supply power to the receiver as well. Most of us have generally gotten used to having it also supply power to the board from the motor battery.
I'm laughing so hard at the ignorance posted in this discussion that I had to make a comment. First of all OPTO DOES NOT MEAN OPTICAL! The description given was correct but OPTO means OPTO-ISOLATOR! Optical has to do with light. The next thing is customers need to start reading the descriptions better before they buy. An ESC without a BEC is very common. ESC BEC's don't always have the current necessary to power all the servos and devices necessary and therefore an external one with High Current handling becomes necessary.
Aniello you are just too funny. How many times do you need to post "yes have no BEC, very bad"? It is not bad at all, and you do not need a second battery. All that you need is a stand-alone BEC. Hobby King sells them. The are very small, light, and inexpensive. Many people prefer them to the built-ins because you can get them with higher current ratings and better switching regulators.
Michael is correct except that OPTO does mean optial, as in Optical Isolator, and it has everything to do with light. Control signals from the ESC are passed to the reveiver through light emitting devices rather than wires. OPTO devices cannot pass DC power, thus the need for an eternal BEC.
Yes you are correct. I must have been drunk when I wrote this. I was thinking of something completely different and didn't realize until after it was posted. An Opto Isolator uses a photo sensor and typically an IR diode to transfer a signal. Since its being transferred by light there is no way electrical noise can pass through it (unless the signal is dirty). Since there is no metallic wire to pass the signal no power can be passed through it. All you get is a very small voltage at the receiver end where the signal is converted back into an electrical signal. Because of this, the ESC cannot be powered through that wire hence no BEC. When electrical noise becomes an issue, this type of ESC becomes useful. A lot of us like me are flying FPV crafts and electrical noise becomes a problem. Installing an external BEC is no big deal. It can usually handle much more current than an esc/bec. You can run way more devices this way. If your flying a simple park flyer than another ESC may be a better option.
US Warehouse shipped it quick. It works OK right off but it works even better once programmed (simple). See the same item at the International Warehouse for the manual and programming instructions under "Files".
Need a separate BEC to power the receiver & servos. I prefer having a separate BEC, it allows the use of more servos or more powerful servos that may require higher current drain with less chance of a receiver "brown out" and crash.
Come on HK, Support items like BEC's really should be stocked at the USA Warehouse, I hated having to wait for a BEC from the International warehouse so I made my own.
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THIS PIECE OF CRAP DOES NOT WORK OUT OF THE PACKAGE AND THERE IS NO FRIGGEN INSTRUCTIONS, PIECE OF CRAP.
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oh, i just found out from my local hobby shop, that this thing REQUIRES a friggen BEC.... oh just lovely... they list it as plug-n-play, but in the fine print, my local shop says opto=BEC means that it is optically isolated so no BEC and thus you need a BEC, just lovely.... plane is all ready to fly, but hobby king poor specs now have me jammed up....
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This ESC has NO BEC. It will NOT power your RX or servos. You WILL have to have another battery or voltage reg to use it and being so small, weight will usually prohibit another battery and using a voltage reg with it is senseless too. If it was >100A I would understand it not having a BEC. I personally can't think of anything it is good for. Defiantly look for a ESC with BEC in this ampere range for 99 of hobby applications. Where it says "BEC: opto only" it should say NONE.
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I purchased this ESC for a powered glider. Running on at 1200kv motor 8x4 prop pulling 28 amps at WOT. It lasted about 2 minutes and then my motor locked in at 1/2 throttle. I am lucky it has no BEC as I would not have a plane right now. This was my first and last HK esc. Stay clear of this one.