i think turnigy 9 to 13gram have the same spline but id really rather have the metal if its a expensiv plane. i mean if you need a new one you must have broke the old one? i wouldnt chance it as for replacment they dont want it to break again if it did so they only offer a upgraded version.
Yo los uso en un 450DFC. Toda la piñ*oneria es metalica salvo el penultimo piñ*on, el cual encaja con el piñ*on del motor. Este penultimo piñ*on es de plastico y a mi se me a roto un servo en un golpe y fue sueve....y solo tenia 1 hora de vuelo....asik lo desmonte y lo comprobe. Lo e podido sustituir por un piñ*on de otro servo que tenia y no utilizaba. Estos servos tiene fuerza, son rapidos pero cogen orgura rapido al llevar un piñ*on de plastico engranado con los metalicos. Todos los servos me han cogido orgura con una hora escasa de vuelo.
I'll second that, i too break that plastic 2nd gear in 'metal' servos a lot. Just recentanly in a cheep Goteck 9257MG i put on a camera gimbal.
never know which servos will have that plastic 2nd gear until it snaps and you hear the motor spin up.
Indeed, mine came also without the rubber and brass pieces. Do you really think it is necessary to use them? What should be the source of vibration? Servos do not vibrate and electric motors that vibrate are broken. Do you use a gas engine?
when using 300watt motors on a ply and balsa (1043gram weight) construction there is bound to be some vibration. even with axi gold motors so to avoid these affecting servos the rubber bits are crucial. Foamies and epo planes either absorb vibrations or don't need enough power. I have lost a gws naro servo once I took of the rubber pieces with in 30 seconds of take off. The other died after running 3 packs through it. The potentiometer gives up as a result of vibrations.
I am not sure. I consider 300W on 1kg as not much. Not even the cheapest HK motor produces significant vibration. I always balance propeller. I dare to say that non of my models have any detectable vibration at all.
I meant 300 plus watts because all my motors are rated from 330 watts to 450 watts. I do balance my props and spinners are also slightly balanced. The applications of these motors are mostly 3d and sport balsa planes. Do you have any tips on mounting the servos so vibrations can be avoided. Better safe than sorry.
I went through some threads in different forums and I must admit that a majority uses the rubber elements even in electric models. Since these servos are delivered without those elements you can either buy them separately (if possible) or find a different solution. Without giving it too much thought, how about screwing them directly to a wooden board and isolating this board from the fuselage by any kind of rubber material. Gluing the board in with silicon might do the job as well. If you find a better solution please let me know.
I did use the servo tray method for my .60 size planes but electrics do not give enough room to put hands in and fiddle around. Thought of putting small o-rings above and below the the mounting tab to give the same effect as the rubber element.
I had problems with a vibrating EDF that killed two servos and caused two crashes due to that. But the issue in my case was with the servos* the cables between the feedback pot and the electronics were rediculously thin and broke off easily. What I did was carefully take the servos apart (when they were new), and add a dab of glue (UHU por) around the solderings and a short ways up the cables, both at the pot side and at the tiny electronics board side, as a force relief. With that modification, the servos have worked very well in spite of the vibrations.
no but im using one fot my tcopter. running 2830-8 1300kv 3-4s havnt tried 4 yet three is enough so far lol. is like learning to fly again but easier this time round. plus adding my fpv when im ready for it. should go about 2 to 3 miles easy. wish i could add the arkbird since i already have it on my plane.
Does anyone know where these servos can be reversed. I tried opening them up but they are not connected using cable. They use a small flat metal plate kind of thing that joins the board to the pot. I tried to reverse one by removing them and adding cable in myself but as you know I stuffed it up :)
I use the transmitter "Optic-6" with HF module "Spectrum" and OrangeRx R610 $pektrum DSM2 6Ch 2.4Ghz Reseiver. For two years, using this kit and am very happy and receivers and servos. Why, it is used in models of air combat where the high flight speed and load shapes and strokes with models opponents. Has not broken is not one of the 15 servos that I have.
hi I have 4 of this servo And i used in my Cessna plane But the problem is I do not know why it is moving at an angle between 20 and -20 degrees How can I increase this angle With the knowledge that this angle as it is from the first installation of the servo thanks
Standard 100% travel is usually 60 degrees one way 120 degrees total,with trims or travel adjust this will increase to nearer 140 degrees total,this is for normal types of servo's,specialist servo's will differ.
Use Futaba ones. I use the anodised aluminium ones from Hobbyking listed under the servo accessories department. I've found though that you need to draw them onto the splines with the arm screw, as they are a very tight fit. You won't have to worry about them falling off though!
It is that simple crashtruk dummy, I didn't read are they good in a heli, didn't see his question for good advice on the servo, just saw the question for how are they for heli use? Maybe all ur trukcrashes have given u some head trauma. Get well soon.
Luckily it's all over with now but I'm convinced some people think they can still get their 20 cents. Even the total HobbyKing has paid is still going up. Their IT boys must have missed it. :-) They can drop it in my account if they like. I must admit to discussing scammers a fair amount but there's a reason for that. Hopefully it's all over Rokster.