Soooo....Now that I have the manual information, Is there anyone out there that has used this item recently? I viewed some you tube videos and was very shocked and spooked by them. They show massive "Glitching" and "jitering" of the control surfaces. Is this kill switch responsible for this? Is it even safe to use? Perhaps it is the setup on these planes and not the kill switch. But it does concern me. I am not willing to risk a brand new plane and a brand new RCG motor from Hobby King. Can someone shed more light on this? Thanks
There seems to be a LOT of confusion about this device here.
I decided to check it out myself on the three new units I just received. All three tested out the same.
The 3 pin cable (orange/brown/black) must connect to a receiver channel. Refer to the picture above. This is connected to the side of the PCB labeled OUTPUT. Yes this is confusing!
It expects 4.8v or above voltage to operate, but the light will not come on until the battery is connected to the other side and you have turned on the RX signal ( channel ) to the Opto switch.
On the other side of the PCB there is both a male and female connector hooked to a 2 pin ( red & black ) cable. This is labeled INPUT.
On the INPUT ( Red/Black) side, one of these Red/Black ports is for the battery, the other is for the CDI. It doesn’*t matter which connector you use, but I plugged the battery into the male connector.
I plugged a meter into the other side to view the results.
It all works just fine with 5volts ( 4.8v), on both sides of the PCB.
Let me say that again. The unit works just fine with 4.8v packs and the same for the RX. I did NOT need to use a 6v source or supply at all.
The voltage from the CDI battery to the CDI can be as low as 4volts and this unit WILL provide switched power to the CDI, but it only supplies the voltage seen at the “*output”* battery port. So if you have a 4.8v battery power source, the other 2 wire plug will produce 4.8v when turned on. I tried using 4.8v NiMH packs, 6.0v NiMH packs and 6.6v LiFe packs for the CDI supply. All work.
The unit is indeed optically isolated ( Opto ) between the INPUT and OUTPUT sides, however once turned on the switch merely connects the INPUT side connectors together.
I hope this clarifies things.
I believe not if your manual switch is NO (Normally Open) switch which drains the electrons to the ground. Can you specify the model number? I am asking this because there are roughly two types. Why am I answering this. Because I bought one for my Baja hoping it would work. Result was negative. This one is good for CDI type engine. Hope this helps others.
I use Dimension Engineering's "battle switch". It has been working great. I also attached 12 LEDs at the end of the vehicle so that I can visually observe whether the kill switch is on or off. Very good, recommend.
I Purchased one of these , but it does not seem to be a true optically isolated switch , seems to work ok as a remote switch .. but the point of using an optically isolated switch is to reduce ignition Interference.
It is sometimes hard to see what is on a small PCB like this one, but it does look like an opto-isolator on this circuit board. I will check the chip number, if I can read it. The picture looks the same as the one I have.
Yes you are right they don,t work as they come but i put a step down regulator adaptor between the recevier the the opto switch and my one works perfect. The adaptor regulator came with a Turnigy 8-15amp UBEC for lipolys ProductID** TR-UBEC15 If you read the product reveiws you will note that they only work on 6v from the receiver but this adaptor got mine going
No this is a electronic cut out switch that will cut ignition on a gas engine Via the transmitter. it goes between the receiver and the electronic ignition but you need a spare operating channel on you receiver to connect it to. hope this helps Cheers
Yea I have every thing needed, just wasnt sure what they meant by electronic ignition. Have heard of some one using a little relay in line with the normal kill switch on a coil ignition motor.. any one have a link to a decent relay??
Looks like the latest batch does have an LED light, but the servo wire, the one running to the receiver is reversed! See my review:
Well figured out what was wrong and I'm working now. After not being able to get any response from the switch, and right before I threw it in the trash an idea came to my mind. Since these guys who made the device, reversed the in - out connection, what if they also put on the servo cable wrong. That is what if the signal is where the ground and ground is where the signal. Sure enough that was it! They reversed the servo cable!
When it shorted and burned the text off it did damage the electrical gear inside. To what extent is the question. I would not trust this piece in my plane, it may short out and drain a battery or even start a fire inside the plane. Better to replace it.
This is just a switch. The output voltage will depend on the battery you plug in the "in" plug. But be careful : though it is controlled by the Rx, it is powered by the battery it switches, and anything below 6V will not work, so if you use a 4cell nicad pack for your ignition (as I do) then the switch will not even power on (LED blinking 10 times) : the LED will stay lightly on but that's it.
Yes it can be adjusted. If you want to run it from 3.8Volts up to 5Volts you have to cut the heat shrinking tube away. Than solder a wire from the outer 2pins (of 3 pins) of the LM7805 together. If you don't know how the LM7805 looks like compare it with that picture: target=_blank>LM7805
Only the manual is a total ****!
It works with a 4 cell RX battery and a 4 cell ignition battery!!
Connect the male plug of the ignition side of the switch with your ignition battery. No soldering is required!! Connect the female plug of the ignition side with your ignition and the female plug on the RX side of the switch (the one with the three wires) to a channel of your RX and everything works perfectly!
yes you can with a bit of a modification.
im using it on my 23cc gas car and all i did was connecting a relay switch to the power output to switch off my engin by remote on the 3rd channel.
very easy and works well.
well done hobbyking. I have been waiting for you guys to supply this item for ages now. This should be a must for any gas engine. its alot easier than lowering the throttle and safer. I have actually onc ehad a throttle servo get stuck on one of my planes and i just used the kill swtich to turn off the engine. If not then that plane would be fire wood!!
i used the turnigy remote control on off switch to control my ignition and i had to manually add an LED for a status warning. this is a welcomed item as that was a lot harder than this simple plug and play item.
This does not work with 5V. I uses connect the input of this directly to my 2S lipo, so it gets 7.2V (or even 11.1V when I use 3S). At the output side, I connect it to a bec. The output of the bec is connected to the CDI. That ensures the CDI gets 5V. It also allows me to share my batts instead of getting a dedicated batt to power the cdi at 5V.
My testing on 12/12/2012: the unit worked from 3.3V to 12V.
Nice switch, quite small and working ok, but I have a few comments : ALL my batteries fitted with a JR type plug have a male plug (so they can be plugged into a receiver) so why is the "input voltage" plug of the switch also a male? And the outout is a JR female, the exact oposite of what I would have expected (check the manual in the "file tab"). Also, the switch is powered via the switched power source, not via the Rx, and anything below 6V will not get it to start, so I can't use it to switch on/off the 4.8V bat. that powers the ignition module of my RCG 30. And I can't use a higher voltage either as the CDI instructions clearly state that anything above 6V will kill it. : ( As I believe that it's true of most CDI units, that pretty much makes it unusable as a kill switch. Or have I missed something??
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Product worked as discribed,in the manual which you can find in the file section it states battery into a male plug and ignition into a female plug,my battery comes with a male and ignition is female so the plugs are incorrect in the manual but you can plug it in reverse it stll works fine. this is a quality product for a great price you wont find this quality for this price anyware
Very handy device for killing that gasser, turning on an accessory or whatever.
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I was puzzled why the switch didn't work till I read the comments on 6V input requirement. No big deal for me since I intend to use Lipo for the CDI, so this is my wiring:
Lipo -> mechancal switch -> kill switch -> BEC -> CDI.
That solves the 6V conflict between the kill switch and the CDI.