The North American Aviation T-6 Texan was a single-engine advanced trainer aircraft used to train pilots of the United States Army Air Forces, United States Navy, Royal Air Force and other air forces of the British Commonwealth during World War II and into the 1950s. The HobbyKing AT-6 is a very neatly designed EPOparkflyer. This Plug-n-Fly R/C plane comes with a brushlessoutrunner, ESC and servos all pre-installed. All you need is a 2S battery and receiver. Build time is around 15 minutes and does not require glue. The tough EPO construction keeps the model bouncing back for more and the strong 2607 outrunner motor provides plenty of power on as little as a 1,000mAh 2S LiPo.
This model out of the box has a very nasty stall regime, so I wouldn't recommend it to a novice.Flies well as long as yr flying it, not dangling close to the stall speed. 2 cells is fine 3 cells just goes faster with enhanced bad stall characteristics.
I was able to bend some wash-out into the wings & it's more stable at or around min flt speed with a more gentle stall.
Next I'll try some LE stall strips on it to see if I can male it more user friendly.
After a few simple and cheap mods this plane is now fun to fly.The original motor stopped working after a crash so I am using a Towerpro 2408-21T screwed directly to the fire wall with a 7x4 prp and 3s 800mah battery. Ample power and 8-10 minutes flight time. The ailerons were glued in position and new ones cut from the inboard flap line out 180mm. No more tip stalling and it does very nice scale aerobatics.
Kellyann, I would only buy this plane if you loved the look so much you just had to have it. It looks great in the air and is fun to fly but you do have to pay full attention to it. It sounds like the mini fighter series, available here for the same price and similar in size, are great flyers straight out of the box. And a happy new year to you as well.
Mine was awesome straight from the box, no mods required. flys fast and slow with no bad stall tendancies. the only problem I had was when I tried to give it some extra elevator, it would then snap at full stick
I've been using the GWS slowfly 7x6 props (GWS-RD-7060), same performance as stock props and quite flexible, so less breakages. You get 6 in a bag for about $3.00 from Hobby King, so good value. Try to get them locally if you can, as they are currently on backorder at HK. Doesn't usually take long for them to come back in though, if you are planning an order from Hong Kong.
The chunk of foam in the slot under the rudder is there to support the rudder during transit. Cut it out carefully and then gently s****e away some of the silver paint where ever the stabilizer and fuselage contact so that you can get good glue adhesion. Do a dry-fit first to make sure everything lines up and is square, remove the stabilizer and apply a thin coat of the supplied glue and reassemble, making sure the stabilizer is the right way round (elevator horn meets the pushrod clevis on the side). Check it for square again and wait about two hours for it to set.
The problem with using a 3S lipo is that the battery compartment isn't tall enough. The quoted dimensions are wrong. I just measured mine at 95Lx35Wx13H (slightly longer if you cut out the false firewall). A 2S lipo at around 13mm thick is a push fit. You could cut away some foam from the top of the compartment but there isn't much material to work with. If a 3S is used, the stock prop (7x6) will need to be changed to one with a lesser pitch, otherwise the motor will draw more current than the ESC can handle (see the HK AT-6 page at the international website for aditional info).
To add to my previous reply. I've just hooked up a 3S lipo and the ESC 'counted' the cells correctly and armed normally. I gave the throttle a quick blip and the plane nearly leapt out of my hand! If you can squeeze a 3S into this plane you will definitely need to swap out the stock prop.
No you can keep the wing on the plane. To install the battery simply remove the cockpit and slide it into the compartment towards the nose. Put a zip tie around the legth of the battery to aid in removal as it saves pulling on the wires. If you use a slightly larger battery like the 1300 mah then you should poke out the false firewall to accomodate the extra length. Does not affect c of g.
Thanks Steven, When I looked again I realised I missed a picture that shows the cockpit removed. I have the Corsair. I love the way this AT-6 has retracted gear and protection for servo's. I'm hoping they bring out a yellow one, an RAF one would be nice too. Cheers
Hiya LERLO, yes it seems that the AUST warehouse stocks lots and lots of high mAh Li-Po's and very few the exact size for their planes. Some smaller Li-Po's would be great. An 11.1V 1300mAh is an item that should be in stock, as well as some 7.4V batteries ... please :)
I agree, this thing really moves. Suggest something big and light for beginners. The lack of rudder takes nothing away from its speed and performance.
My Harvard Mk IIa balances on the two petrol filler caps 2¼ inches back from the leading edge. If relevant: my radio is forward of the screws attaching the wing to the fuselage, between where the wheels are. Had to cut very little to fit, and channels for the connections to the servos and battery. The aileron wires needed an extra relay wire. (I've added a mock tail wheel, plus under-wing numbers and castles).
Can I buy another ditto, with battery, all from the one Australia warehouse? When I click the battery and the aeroplane, the screen says "cannot do".
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Do yourself a favour and don't waste your time or money on this plane.
It tip stall real easy and flies like it is suspended on rubber bands.
I tried all sorts of trips to iron the bugs out of this thing. Extended ailerons, various CGs, tail struts, rudder etc, etc. All to no avail.
A better bet for a similar sized warbird is the mini P47 or 109. I have the P47 and it flies way, way better.
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Despite some minor flaws, this little foamy tends to grow on you. Even with the added weight of a Turnigy 2S 1300mAh lipo (T1300.2S.20A), and doing the firewall mod to move the battery forward (see other reviews), I still had to add about 15gm to the nose to get the CG right.
The Turnigy battery is a perfect fit, but has an XT60 plug, so you will need to solder a matching socket on the ESC. The 5gm servo's are not the best, lots of backlash and so-so centering. I replaced them with HXT 900's - which was overkill, but the control surfaces now move with
great authority! The ESC was shoe-horned sideways into the space ahead of the wing screws, and I made the air scoop on the cowl underside functional to get some airflow going inside to keep it cool.
The GWS 7x6 prop (GWS-RD-7060) produces slightly better acceleration
when launching and is more flexible than the stock prop, so you are less likely to bend the motor shaft in a crash. Future mods will be glueing 1.5mm CF rod along the leading edge to strengthen the wing as it's a bit weak around the servo pockets. It will also get flaperons to make landings a bit softer. My biggest disapointment with this plane however, was that the canopy was missing from the box, and I had to make one from a bits of foam.
Nice Plain Easy To Put Together The Glue It Came With Is Crap Looks Like Paper Glue Or Wood Glue Didnt Use Only to glue spinner need to leave over night.. as some one else has said the prop is of cheep quality and breaks easy i give it a 4