Programming Functions: Battery Type: Lipo /NiXX Brake: On / Off Voltage Protection: Low / Mid / High Protection mode: Reduce power / Cut off power Timing: Auto / High / Low Startup: Fast / Normal / Soft PWM Frequency: 8k / 16k Helicopter mode: Off / 5sec / 15sec (Start up delay)
Note: User manual can be downloaded from the files Tab.
buddy code save cash! http : //www .hobbyking . com/ buddy .asp ? code= 931CBF84 -A4DC -42EF -8AE3 -3A519926FBD6
you have to take out all the spaces this is good for a few days as i bought three yesterday 5/10/13
As it turns out there really aren't that many items other than the 3 x F-30's from my order that I could give buddy codes on too, but thanks anyway dude. Thanks for your attention to my query. Just didn't see the popup it happens off screen:-/
But I am ok now, sort of....
ok then i try to get to everyone as soon as i can but i have to work too. buddycodes are found after i buy a item then look at the acount at my order# they are on that then just copy and paste they only work for a short few days i think but just take out the spaces and paste it in search or type it in when you check out but you can only use one at that part of checkout so its better to search and use as many as you can i have saved hundreds from their continued use. hope that helps anyway. sorry for the late reply man. happy flying.
correct this esc does not require the red wire on the other motors to be cut. you can just hook up and go i definitly do flash them though and if it is the wrong flash they fry so be sure but they are great i just ordered 4 more!
I was under the impression a UBEC was a form of redundancy where by if your ESC failed you would still have power to your receiver. If this ESC fails do you lose the lot or is the UBEC on a separate circuit?
The voltage regulator (BEC) is 2 elements, separate from the ESC circuit. So only 2 failures may cause the 5v loss - total burn-out (when the traces to BEC would be destroyed) and severe overheat (BEC integral cirquit has overheat protection - it would shut down if extremaly high temperature is reached)
I have had a mixed idea pf the product some say its good but others say its horrible, What do YOU think.
Also will this work in a AXN Cloud Floater ARF, HXT900 Servos & T2200.3S.25 (Product Code)? Please tell me what YOU think.
I have 12 of these Esc and they are all ok, thousands are sold, and its the only a few of the bad ones we hear about, not the ok ones, thats mass production for you. It will fit the axn floater - much better than the original that comes with the PNF kit. It'll be ok with a 20A Esc, it cheaper, something to consider.
You may have wired your components correctly, the problem is with your Tx mixing. On what channel you connected your ESC? And what tx/rx are you using? You should provide a mixing so both esc gets a signal from the throttle stick inputs.
Some airflow will hit the airframe, so I agree *slightly* more thrust is needed than the weight. But otherwise, to hover, the force upwards (the thrust) just needs to equal the forces downwards (weight).
Most of the time I'll be hovering at a set altitude, but to gain altitude and to fight the wind, more thrust will be needed during those times. 80oz is not hard to get out of a 2212 55gm sized motor, but I hope to not need anywhere near 80oz during 90% of the flight (for aerial photography).
I'm trying to decide if I should get the 72-75 gram 2216 motors. That adds 2 or 2.5oz compared to the 2212 motors, but I could use a larger prop due to lower kv (of the 2216), so I might come out ahead in terms of current draw. I plan to check/compare the thrust tables tonight.
I hope to keep current below 10A...I figure my quad will weigh around 2 pounds (32oz), including the battery. Let's say 8oz for a camera, so I'll need 40oz of thrust total to keep it in the sky, or 10oz per motor.
2 amps (20-25 watts) can easily output 10oz of thrust (looked it up on a motor thrust chart).
That's surprising...I assumed each motor would need at least 5-8 amps to keep it airborne.
Is this a N-FET based ESC? Seeing it's pretty much the lowest priced ESC sold here, and since HK does not claim to be N-FETS, it is tempting to assueem they are not...or they are lower quality N-FETs. Notice the Blue Series / Mystery ESCs state they are imported N-FETs.
And God only knows if they used good capacitors - that's what often fails on electronics after 1-3 years.
According the the RapidESC database, it is all N-Fets. Also has the programming pads in a nice, straight, line. Seems to be recommended among the reflashing crowd.
As for the quality, well, that's debatable. As long as it works until I break them...
i wouldnt go 25 or more continuos my got very hot after 25 amp for 8 minutes and started to not work for a bit until it cooled had good airflow on it asswell so for these esc i would get 25% more then needed
Yes Rexy, but before we log in, prices are higher. When we're logged in, the discount intended for our account type is in effect that's why we see slightly lower prices when logged in. And there's the usual HK price glitch :). Saw the F-20A priced at 22$ just a few days ago.
YOu know actually I ordered 4 PC's for 9.99$ a week before .. I thought the price increased but yesterday when I look for the same with out logging in the price is 8.99$ and a further reduction to 8.55$ alsi, and ehen I logged in it changes to 9.99$...
This is the way they are treating a frequent buyer?
Hi Arun, I save the list of items I want to buy in my wishlist first and then goto rcsearch.info to find a buddy code and some discount for the items. I actually save about 16$ from my last purchase because of that. You can get that one-time-offer price if you have some little patience.
I reported already but they are making some silly reasons as gold members get that platinum members get this... I just shut the lap and sroped.. anyway this is really a bad thing if they are doing it knowingly..
The factory default setting of ESC:....
1) The brake: off....
2) The types of battery: Lipo battery with automatic detection...
3) The cutoff value under low voltage: middle (3.0V/65%)...
4) The angle of entrance in motor: automatic...
5) Setting for accelerated startup: smooth...
6) The setting Mode for helicopter: off...
7) The frequency of working: 8kHz...
8) Protection mode under low voltage: reduce power...
ESC selection should be based on your motor and prop combination. ESC should be at least 20% higher rated than the max current your motor is capable of. Any motors with a maximum current rating of 30A will be suitable with this ESC.
they are all used to power your recieiver built in bec are part of your speed controller but you can also have seperate bec to supply power they all do the same task but they are rated general rule is 0.5 amp per servo so 3 amp bec can run 6 servos max to be safe. and generally an external ubec is for larger planes with lots of servos or larger ones requiring more then just you standard foamy planes
Sbec stands for smart bec
ubec originally ment stand alone
after programming the ecs for a quadcopter using a HK programming card, i spinned the motors and when i reached full throttle, the motor started to slow down...can anyone tell why is this happening??
and when i programmed it back to the stock settings, it did the same thing.
Your battery is low, or just can not handle the current your motors draw from it. The voltage is dropped, so ESC tries to save the battery and reduces power. It's a cool feature, actually - there's no chance to waste the battery it flight
yes this happened when i was new i put a 4000kv motor with a 6x4 on some small 3s batteries and the motor would go really good for like 10 seconds but the the batteries and motor were being overworked and couldnt deliver in you case probly just the battery buy yourself a wattmeter it worth the investment
so I plug in my tricopter today and the ESC smokes and then startes smoking my motor. Can anyone explain why this happens? Is there anything I can do to pervent it? It was with 750kv NMT motors, orange tx/rx and 4cell 2200
Did the polarity of connection was right? I mean the wires, going to the battery. If yes, then it's just the defective ESC. There's no way to prevent that, really (any ESC has limited life span and can end up this way). That' s a bit strange though, because I have 6 of them for a long time (4 in quadcopter and 2 in planes) and all perform really well. Such an accident also can happen when the water gets into the ESC.
I have been using it for a few weeks. but it has been raining a lot, so chance a bit of moisture got in.
If I sealed the end of the heat shrink with silicon would this help, or would it heat up faster?
excellent cheap ESC, exactly as described, easy to program with TX and very good throttle response. I'm using it with a 4200kv outrunner and 3s lipo with 64mm EDF, great setup!. thanks HK
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Picked this up a week or so ago the unit came in perfect condition. programming was not required as it worked configured out of the bag. it would be beneficial to have a detailed spec sheet on beep config packaged w eack hk unit sold rather than hunting online or waiting for someone to post. would buy or reco again
1 comment. Reply..
I have bought this and receivied few days ago. It was well packed. I had 1 flight with it, and it was good. No problems occured during the flight. After flight it was barely hot. I recommend this esc, because it's possible to program, and it has good price/quality ratio. :)
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Good quality and well built, pre progged from box with generic settings, but easily programmed from TX.
Bang on the mark for a speed controller