Programming Functions: Battery Type: Lipo /NiXX Brake: On / Off Voltage Protection: Low / Mid / High Protection mode: Reduce power / Cut off power Timing: Auto / High / Low Startup: Fast / Normal / Soft PWM Frequency: 8k / 16k Helicopter mode: Off / 5sec / 15sec (Start up delay)
Note: User manual can be downloaded from the files Tab.
They are N-FET, don't try anything else. Also, make sure to select (atmega 8-based brushless ESC (8kb flash)). Just incase you don't know, this FW is specific for multirotors, though I guess it can be used for anything. Haven't tried myself, but it's awesome for multirotors. These ESC's are fairly average until you flash them with SimonK, then they become amazing. Have fun
All the ones I have are black and I have flashed all of them, so yes. Haven't seen the F20 with blue only black, you must have got them a while ago. In any case, the HS colour doesn't make any difference, it's still the same ESC. Maybe they changed the coulor because the F30 is blue.
I ordered 3 of these and the X900 tricopter frame. while calibrating these esc, I've noticed that they were getting hot... The motors were off, so I don't have a clue why that is happening. The esc for motor 2 and 3 were heating up and not on motor 1. Is it about the bec? Should I remove the red wire? Any input on this would be highly appreciated!!!
Hello Jonatan AS you are using a tricopter you need a servo for the tail. You dont tell which control board you are using, then let's concider you have a KK2. ESC connected to M1 will power up the control board and from there your receiver. ESC connected to M2 will power up all what is connected on next input.(M2 to M8) Normally the ESC you have are serial BEC which means they will not hurt if connected together. However there is no need to have more than one. SO I suggest you disconnect the red from M3 ESC( this is just a click away: pull on the connector tab close to the pin (could need a needle or the tip of a knife- pull gently as you can break it). it will come up a bit and let you remove the cable by pulling it out - thru the connector) You can also check the current flowing with a clamp amperemeter to confirm.
I have build a qudrocopter with a Multiwii 328p board. Can anyone help me with the settings? I mean
Battery Type: *Lipo /NiXXBrake: *On / OffVoltage Protection: *Low / Mid / HighProtection mode: *Reduce power / Cut off powerTiming: *Auto / High / LowStartup: *Fast / Normal / SoftPWM Frequency: *8k / 16kHelicopter mode: *Off / 5sec / 15sec (Start up delay)
Or is it better to flash the controllers with simonk. I have read the 328p is to slow for the settingsnof simonk, is that right?
Not sure if they will stock, but you can flash them with a different FW. There's a dedicated thread on what FW works with what FC's for these and other ESC's on RCGroups. Well worth your time to read through it so you get what works.
YES you need to remove red wire from M3, M4.
Leave red wire on M1 only. You need also red wire on M2 OR M3 OR M4 if you are using servo for the camera stabiliser. M1 is powering the KK2 and the receiver* M2...M8 are all connected together.
It is never good to connect different red together.
Look guys, it really doesn't make a hell of a lot of difference.
If you remove all the red wires except one, OR remove them all and use a separate BEC, that would probably be optimal.
But if you left them all conected, nothing bad is really going to happen, at all.
Hope this helps.
No you don't need to remove the red wire's. This ESC uses a linear BEC which can work together no problem. Only switching BEC's can't be used together. Once you have them, flash them with SimonK FW and your quad will fly awesome. These ESC's are very very good, good choice.
Hello, This subject seems to be a bit tricky. Yes you are right, you can connect all red together and as such no need to disconnect. HOWEVER as said, it is very bad to get RED together when using SBEC. So as a safety rule, and as it is very difficult for newbies to find the difference, I prefer to stay on the safe way. NO RED together. Hope this clarify the message. Enjoy flying
Hi there, these ESC's work well on multirotors, straight out of the box! PLUS or CROSS configuration has nothing to do with the ESC, it is in the setup of your flight controller, (MultiWii, KK, etc), so these will work for you as is.
However, they are also well suited for flashing with SimonK, an alternate firmware optimised for use on helis and multirotors, so that will give you some options as you become more advanced with your setup.
Hope this helps.
No worries, mate. If you get these for your quad, (or the 30A version), fork out a few bucks for the prog card (PRODUCT ID: 9261000016).
Also, if you are interested in flashing SimonK, grab a USBAsp if you don't already have one. From HK, they are about as cheap as you'll find them!
dont worry about credit Srijal,happy to help.if its a brushless motor (3 wires)you can connect any coloured wires to any coloured wires on esc,but with this in mind only.when everything is powered up and you apply throttle, the motor will either spin clockwise or anti clockwise.now if it dosent spin in the direction you want it to spin,just change any 2 wires that connect esc and motor of the 3 and it will spin in the opposite direction.you need to solder your own connectors to esc and motor(this esc dosent come with any) ,or you can test motor direction and solder wires straight to each other and cover them each with heatskrink tube.i prefer the connectors,but this saves weight if its an issue.goodluck happy flying:)
somehow i manged to set the brake ie when the throttle is at it lowest point the motor is off. When i flick switch A on my TX the motor comes onto about half revs. in order to get into programming mode i have to have the throttle all the way up and switch A on. When i now go into programming and try to either turn off the brake (option 2) or reset the factory defaults (option 8) nothing happens. is there any chance the options have changed ?
rooha,no the program has not changed(i own about 7 of these).it intrigues me you have to switch on a switch to get throttle going,or are you talking about the throttle stick(switch a)?programming is as per manual suggests.troubleshooting=first of all post your setup,rx your using,tx,running separate lipo(rx) or through esc so we can eleminate things that might be effecting esc.to set throttle range 1)powerup setup,place throttle stick to it highest point and switch on tx(placing throttle stick at highest point and switching on tx will always set the esc in programming mode depending on wheather the throttle channel on tx is reversed or normal).as soon as you hear the first tune played, pull throttle stick down to lowest.let the second tune play ,than switch off setup and switch off tx.than switch on setup,switch on tx ,let tune play and test throttle.now if you have set brake,it is because you have (in programming mode)left the throttle stick on(at its highest point)for too long (so it has started to play the tune for brake program)(see manual,p5 and p6)pulling the stick down on this tune has set the brake on.to switch brake off ,do same thing again as above.while in program mode -if you leave the throttle stick on for amount of time you will notice it will start playing through tunes (programs 1throttle 2 brake 3 type of battery etc)(default is tune 8 )(default settings see p4 of manual).ok as i said above,have you got throttle channel on tx set in reverse? we also need to know why you have to switch on a switch to get throttle going(whats the tx your using)members will suggest to use a programing card (each to their own, but ive never had to use 1 for this esc) problems with esc -usually its your initial setup either to do with tx or rx than programming. goodluck happy flying
i think you are on the right track with just about everything you said there. i have got the standard hobbyking 6ch transmitter and receiver pack (mode 1). i plugged that into t6 config when i got my programming cable for it and from what i can tell i somehow had a weird mix that cuts off throttle when switch A is on. I dont know how i did that so i guess when i was trying to reset the esc to its defaults i somehow messed that up and made things worse. I am now going to see if i can sort out a completely standard 4ch setup for the RX and reset the esc to default and see how i get on from there. I'll report back tomorrow.
ok cool tomatoes,thanks rooha for credit but just happy to help.i dont own the t6 ,but use the receiver with this esc.so this might help to eleminate the rx,when connecting esc to rx.ch1-elevator ch2-ailerons ch3-throttle(also powers your rx and servos vai your esc )ch4-rudder.now ch5/ch6-are where you usually connect up flaps/gear etc(switches on tx, ive never used them for this purpose but i know they are) .esc to rx wire when connecting to rx must always be white wire closest to channel numbers on tx.for the tx.this is a statement made on your t6 mode 1 descussion page from members = Hi, The two switches on the left and right are not functioning. The potentiometers, however are working. Is it supposed to be like this or how do do I make it work? Rexy03 920 points You need to set them up with the programing software, you cant do much with them tho, I just use one for throttle cut . so try looking at( a switch)on config program(cause maybe yourve switched that on somehow).then look at your mixes program(which i think will only have to do with your elevon etc, but could be wrong).anyway would like to read your reply .thanks again goodluck happy flying:)
DAJARAJA: Have you tried this on this ESC? If I apply power to the ESC with the throttle stick pushed up, it almost immediately enters into programming mode, playing music1, then music2, ... If I do what you wrote, I just turn off the brake (I have a folding prop, so I need it turned on). There are no beeps before music1 (which is 4 short beeps).
Hi medezso, I had some trouble with one (out of four) of mine. I emailed support, and it was suggested to do this. 1. Turn on Tx, throttle at MAX. 3. Turn on ESC and Rx. 4. As soon as beeps start, drop throttle to MIN. 5. After tune plays, turn everthing off. This seemed to set the throttle end points, for me. I think this is what you need to do? Before I did it, this one wouldn't spin up the motor at all. I don't really like throttle programming, so have ordered the prog card now.
Hope this helps.
ok this is how it works,QuadSB is correct to set throttle with tx.this method is for programming esc with tx.get manual out and go to page 5(introduction for setting of programm)follow the instructions for sounding beeps for each program music 1 throttle ,music 2 brake, music 3 etc.leave stick up until you get to required music number(wait 1 second on music tone) than pull stick down to stop programming.now the esc from factory is in default settings when sent to you (brake is off)to switch it on go through programming steps again until you hear the music tone 2(wait 1 second on music tone), pull stick back (stopping program) and the brake should be switched on.now the only problem that i can see is that your tx throttle channel might be reversed .so moving throttle stick up ,you might be just going into working tx mode and not programming mode as you throught.i own 7 of theses ,it takes a liittle bit of time to workout but than it becomes simple .programming cards are a good option but i have never had to use 1.tip- bfore you start programming again, reset esc to default settings so you know whats on,whats off etc(page 3 and 4 default settings)goodluck happy flying.
Does anyone know how to set up the throttle for the first time?
That part is missing from the manual:
"The operation when use the ESC for the first time is as follows:
The normal startup procedure of the ESC is as follows:"
setting throttle curve.tx=when throttle stick is at lowest position it is in woking mode.when throttle stick is pushed to it highest position on tx and tx is switched on,esc is powered up, the esc will go into setting(program)mode.you will hear short beeps ,wait 1 second then pull throttle stick down to lowest position(stopping programing).you will hear little song being played ,when it has finished try the throttle stick to test throttle.disconnect power to esc,switch off tx.working mode =throttle stick is at its lowest postion,switch on tx,power up esc wait for song to finish and use tx .i hope this is what your refering to mdezso,or can you give more detail goodluck:)
Of course it will work, provided that the battery is at least 12V as the minimum is 2S (7.4V). But I think even a 6V lead acid battery will make this ESC work. I'm guessing you'll be doing some bench testing with it. :)
if its this 1 ***mer, B-17G Liberty Belle EPO 1875mm (PNF) specs would say yes.these are great esc's .this esc is a good step up for the straight bricks when you want a little more programing power and bec is good for servos /rx etc although most of my planes are yank and bank types.also get on hk forum and ask question there in 1 of the descussions. i know theyre popular for muti-rotor setups as will goodluck.
no probs,i know i answered with a kind of open ended answer but then i also know you spent some coin for your plane (nice looking plane)and so you want the best possible answers and someone might know better or have experience(running a good setup).just to add their is some good info on rcgroups**** for hk memphis bell (similar setups if not the same) and liberty ,you just have to read(alot).my only advice with this is to go to last page and start backwards lol anyway goodluck .
hello, crazy solution. have a look at this product: 9261000008 (copy this number in the search tab. 30A 4S reverse and price about 12$.
I guess this is a lot better solution :-) even if it is a bit crazy. Can replace the cooling with standard heat sink available on this site.
whats it for Johan, because if you add the weight of 2 esc's it might just end up being the same weight of 1 etc.brilliant answer Roger even i didnt think of that one (simple, outside the box thinking).
hello, crazy solution. have a look at this product: 9261000008 (copy this number in the search tab. 30A 4S reverse and price about 12$. I guess this is a lot better solution :-) even if it is a bit crazy. Can replace the cooling with standard heat sink available on this site.