When pulling power matters and looks.. well.. just dont, then the HobbyKing Donkey ST2004 is the work horse for you. This tough-as-rawhide motor features a heavy duty mount and self oiling bushings that just wont give up like some of the bearings in those little "Show Pony" motors.
Specs: RPM/v: 1550kv Dimensions: 28 x 17mm Shaft: 3.0mm Voltage: 7.4v~11.1v Weight: 33g No-load current: 1.0A @ 11.1v Max Current: 10A Max Watts: 100W Mounting Holes: 33mm
hello, I have a question, I put together a quadricopter, 30A ESC I am using a 3S LIPO battery 1300mah 25-50C, these engines will be fine?, I would greatly appreciate your response is for a class project
You can't use the screw 9*3.8 and the battery of 11.1 volts. It will lead to an engine fire. There is a rule: the more the propeller, the is lower battery tension. For you it will be good 8*4 and 7.4 battery. I have a model aircraft the trainer weighing 500 grams and scope 1300м*м* with this motor. slow beautiful flight.
You can only connect BRUSHED motors direct into a battery, because they are DC motors, and the phase change is made internaly by the brushes. The BRUSHLESS motor don't have this (BRUSH LESS, understand?), and the phase change need to be made by an external device. This device is the ELETRONIC SPEED CONTROLLER (ESC).
just looking for a simple yes or no answer, building a small quad rotor looking at an absolute maximum of 1kg total build wait all in, will 4 of these motors do the trick and get it airborne, stable...and some flight time?
Specs say '7035 - 11.1v - 6.5A - 370g Thrust'. So, 370 * 4 = 1480. While that looks good on paper, these are inexpensive(cheap) motors. While I've always had great luck with them, some people complain that they vibrate.
The AX has lower Kv rating, good for a multi-copter. It's specs show a higher weight for about the same level of thrust (comparing apples to apples). You might be able to remove the heat sink to lower the weight though. So I'd say it's a wash. Cheap motors are more likely to have balance issues, but they can be solved faily easily. I've got four Donkey motors and don't have any that have balance issues though.
Hi I'm currently designing a 1.5m (60"?) glider and would like a motor to get me into the air and get me home if I'm to far away. Would this be a suitible motor for this? Also what prop and what voltage battery should I use? (Can anyone also point me to some info about wing/tail incedents on scratch built gliders? not necessary but will help)
I used this on my first dragonfly and still use it on other planes. It works great for a dragonfly, but a 60" glider? There are a lot of factors involved there. If the location of the motor doesn't restrict prop size, then a 7 or 8 inch is best. You'll want to use a 3S battery too.
7035 - 7.4v - 3.5A - 180g Thrust
8043 - 7.4v - 6.4A - 285g Thrust
7035 - 11.1v - 6.5A - 370g Thrust
go with a 8x6 on 3s ago with 850mAh and 11th with 400g. thrust. With a 9x4, and 13.5 to 460g ago. thrust, however, is hot.
It is not per say oil. The brass is sintered with some kind of dry lubricant the same with most bushed motors. Wouldn't hurt to clean and oil them once in a while though. I use chain lube that goes on thin and the thinner evaporates leaving a good lube behind . My bushings are like new ! Same with ball bearings!!
I'm planning to use these on a Tri Copter :^). Do these motors have a tendency to vibrate or are they balanced good ?? Plan to use 2 7x3.5 props and one counter rota-tor. Also using the Turnigy Plush 18 amp ESC as they will accept the cpu speed..
I kind of thought so ! Not many motors here on HK are balanced very well. I have only one that needs no balance and cant be used on a tri copter as it is too big and heavy and that is the Tower Pro FA 3015. It was so smooth it couldn't be heard running !
Got my order today of 3 2004 Donkeys ! Tried one out on my watt meter and it has 8 watts WOT with no prop ! Bit too much Id say.. The motor also got real hot... Also vibrates badly.. Dont see a problem with the brass bushing but I will keep it oiled anyway.. Does anyone have a good way of balancing these ?? I dont like the tape way if I can do it a better way... Live and learn !
Found out why the watts where high on the one ! The windings shorted against the bell slightly.. I took it apart but there was no save for it ... Looks like a rewind job to me ! Has anyone rewound one of these and how many winds also what style is it wound in ?? Thanks Guys !
OK, let me try to recheck do I get (non native speaker) this weird description right.
Does this mean:
A Motor with sleeve bearings (oiling bushings)?? Sleeve bearings?? Oh R D People... come on, this is not state of the art....
So do you really belive this motor is tough as rawhide?? What a analogy....
Please be so kind to give your european buyer an discription they can follow... RAWHIDE? Pony-Motor?
When pulling power matters and looks.. well.. just dont, then the HobbyKing Donkey ST2004 is the work horse for you???? What a weird text and description of your goods...
Its not just this listing, thats all over!! Unles they have copied the text from a description written by some one who speaks better english. But you know what, these guys from Hong Kong. Im not only a big time buyer on this website but also been there a couple of times. They are taught to "try and manage" with what they know.
I think we should not hold them for it though, its not their everyday language. Some of the good guys will have tests results up soon for you and me to decide I guess.
'Self oiling bushing' is often the name given to simple brass sleeve bearings (bushings). Brass had self-lubriacating properties and has been used for over a century as a material for bushings in mechanical equipment of all sizes.
This product doesn't look interesting. Standard bearings can be replaced. Where am I going to get new sleeve bushings? Since it's a bushing, mechanical loss will be higher. What about replacement shafts? The 3mm ones bend on every prop strike in my planes. Looks: the motor is behind the cowl! I'll stick with the ponies.
I also guess, here is a weird description for an very simple and cheap motor with in brass housing guided shaft. As I've wrote: Not state of the art. Just to save 0.20 USD for an reliable bearing is a assembling of brass bush the wrong way.
An FC28-22 from eMax should be the better choice.
* beyond limits
Sorry, what does you mean? Native speaker can or should use their own colloquial discription?
I'm not with you. A product should be descripet by sentenses and words everybody can understand.
haha, fly by wire & beyond limits* the fellow that wrote the web copy for this motor is a native English speaker. Perhaps that why you dont understand. Yes, the motor is boring, no it's not cheaper to produce. Bearings are dirt cheap in China. A bushing is used because its pressed into the endbell.
Sorry Anthony, I don't agree with you. Even in China where bearings are dirt cheap, bushings are still cheaper. They also have worse alignment, more friction and wear out more quickly than bearings. So I guess they are used here to save cost, not make a better motor.
You are right that it’s cheap (although HK sells shafts for $1.60 for example the 2410). But it’s not just about money. I believe repairing has less impact on our waste footprint than just throwing away. And for me, building/repairing is part of what this hobby is about.
Hi Folks.... Sleeve bearing??? In a Motor with KV1550 ?? Ohhhh, come on... You are Kidding! Simple PM-Dc Motors are made by this cheap way of shaft guiding. And they are less in speed comparing to this motors.
An FC28-22 should be the better choice... isn't it?
Can't see the reason to use this motor. Maybe HK will improve the motor? Then it could be a nice product.
The desription has nothing to do with the people being in Hong Kong.It is clearly written by a good english speaker/writer and it intentionally has a little non-techno flair and humour thrown in. Reviews dont have to be bland and boring all the time. I will try one.
at Anthony. sorry, but that was no secon shot against Hoobyking-Products. Especially I am a big fan of your products.
I will do definetly no promoting for another brand! That is not I've tried. Sorry to give HK-People this feeling. Of course, I should try one, I will order. Maybe I be wrong with my concern against sleeve bearing.
Sleeve bearings are fine for this sort of application. They've been used for over a century in many different applications from large mechanical bearings to small highspeed devices. Brass has the natural property of self-lubrication, this is why it has been used.
is it pusher? can i use 6*4 prop. with? is it come with prop. saver?
I just received 2 of these ST2004's the KV's are not even near the advertised 1500. I have no way of measering kv but, I have been running a turnigy 2730 1500kv and they have way more power and KV's than the ST2004 does. Based on this I can not recommend this motor, the weight is almost the same but not performance.
2 comments. Reply..
I fly 3D and after flying this motor now for 12 batteries. This motor is ok, but.... The turnigy 2730 1500kv is a better choice for power, battery useage and is about the same weight.