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Developed by Sokhoi in Russia as an experimental aircraft to show case their technical advancements in fighter jet design the SU-47 uses a forward-swept wing configuration For high maneuverability and high angles of attack.
If your looking for an experimental EDF jet then the SU-47 ticks all the right boxes. The forward swept wing design will defiantly stand out from the regular EDF jet crowd. Also featuring twin 55mm 3 blade EDF units, hinged control surfaces and an easy access battery compartment the SU-47 Twin 55mm EDF kit is a step above your regular EDF foamie jet. You will require 2 x 2040-4300kv Brushless inrunner motors with 2.3mm shafts to accommodate the 3 blade fan, 3 x 9g servos (2 for control surfaces and 1 for the steerable nose wheel), a 11.1v 2200mah 3S1P lipo battery and your own transmitter and receiver (Tx/Rx) and an hour or so of build time.
Specs: Length:1024mm Wingspan:750mm Wing Area: 12.7dm2 Flying weight: ~700g Wing Loading: 55g / dm2 Ducted fan: Twin 55mm 3 Blade Fan units (Included) Battery: 11.1v 2200mah 20c (Required) Battery Area: 38mm x 27mm x 105mm (MAX) Servo: 3 x 9g (Required) ESC: 2 x 18A (Required)
Required: Motor: 2 x 2040 4300kv Brushless inrunner (with 2.3mm shaft) Servo: 3 x 9g Battery: 11.1v 2200mah 3S1P 20c ESC: 2 x 18A Radio: Your own Tx/Rx
Radio at least 6 channels.(futaba 6J)
1. Left Aileron.
2. Elevator.
3. Thrust
4.Steerable nosewheel.
5. Right aileron.
6. Retracts.(Pnevmo)
For the best aerobatics use V tail mixing.
I hope this helps.
Search for 'Flitetest' on youtube and find their EDF afterburner video. You can hook up a brushed ESC to some leds at the exhaust and make the brıghtness go up wıith the thottle so it looks realistic
ive seen that one . it wasnt realistic it was actually bad . kinda mods i like folding wheels , actual jet sounds maybe a high pitch whistle as it comes along and some others
I am using the 2040 motor PRODUCT ID: 259000001. I find this motor VERy under powered using 3s 2200mah. I need to use 75% throttle to keep it airborne...to climb a bit will require full...forget about aerobatics. Consequently, I cut 2 inches forward of the battery tray and cut the font end of the battery tray to accomondate 4s 1800mah. Its a snug tight fit but it will fit. On top of this I have reduced the twin exhaust 55mm each by 30 percent which give around 40mm via thrust tube using PET film PRODUCT ID: PETFILM-2C.
On the stock 3s power with stock fan and 2040 motor I was getting 260 watts * wot. With the thrust tube and 4s 1800mah I am now getting 417 watts with more thrust due to smaller exit pressure ports.
I bought the same 2040 motor PRODUCT ID: 259000001, but i have problem mount it. It seems that imppeler hub of stock fan is bigger then 2.3 mm shaft that`s on the motor. Can you give me some pointers how did you solve this?
yes i had the same issue. What I did was easy fix. Use shrink wrap or strong packing tape and wrap the 2.3mm shaft until it fits snug to the impeller...then tighten it.... it will hold.
FYI See my post here about using a 1800mah 4s...thats gave roughly 150 watts power improvement....the impeller still holds well at infinite wot....holds good. Shrink wrap is recommended.
Thanks again friend. I`ve menaged to mount the motors, i used 3mm heat shrink tubing and some super glue. I`ve tryed on my Rhinno 1750 mah 3s battery and it holds like crazy.
glad it worked out. I found it necessary to use a 2200mah 3s to balance it out proper. Also I would make the exhaust smaller to increase thrust...see my post above.
Can you help me i`am stuck with placeing the esc in the fuselage, i`am useing 330 mm long motor to esc wire, but it doesn`t seem to be enough. How did you do that and where did you put the esc?
hi Marko,
Sorry was not able to get back to you. Saw your question but forgot to come back to it when i wanted.
The ESC should be about an inch just in front of the two fan housing. I used strong shipping take to hold them down...on the ceiling from the inside of the aircraft with it positioned upright. At the battery bay I pull on the cables to the esc to ensure they are flat flushed to the ceiling. You dont want to block the airflow.
I had some problems mounting the esc`s but i solved it useing longer motor to esc extension wire. I finally menaged to close the fuselage and upgrade the "kit" into "rtf".
Tengarang, thanks for your suggestions and help.
I also only buy EPO planes because my stinger 64 crashed into 6 peices and i was able to fix it at the feild with the help of three people cy and kiker. and i was in the air again without going home to repair :}
Anyone able to recommend where i can find the following items on this site??
ESC: 2 x 18A (Required)
Required:
Motor: 2 x 2040 4300kv Brushless inrunner (with 2.3mm shaft)
Servo: 3 x 9g
Battery: 11.1v 2200mah 3S1P 20c
ESC: 2 x 18A
Radio: Your own Tx/Rx.
On the stock 3s power with stock fan and 2040 motor I was getting 260 watts * wot. With the thrust tube and 4s 1800mah I am now getting 417 watts with more thrust due to smaller exit pressure ports.
I have bought a second kit which I plan on using the following motor **>2x PRODUCT ID: ADH300XL
2x PRODUCT ID: EDF55-DHS which goes with the ADH300XL
2x PRODUCT ID: HK-SS50A will program low timing and high switch frequency
1x PRODUCT ID: TR-UBEC
and 3 of these servos PRODUCT ID: HXT900
This thing will KICK ASS!!! FYI the ADH motor 300XL is the DON motor.
I am planning to power this bir with 2 hoffman mighty mights. The motor diameter is 3mms. Do you know any 3mm adapter that can fit to supplied edf units
What would be the best motors to use with a 6 blade prop in this plane. Will buy the correct ESC's to go with the motors. I want something that will give this plane some punch.
I ordered both 4500 and 5000KV, and would suggest you do the same.. Not enough credible info out there on this airframe, but with a watt meter and some time, the numbers dont lie. For the price of the motors, 2 sets was worth it. Also, probably as important as the motors is the EDF units.. Most guys would say abondon stock EDFs and purchase something better if you really wanna make this thing perform.. We'll see - I'm starting with 4500 and 5000 in stock fans myself, and see where that take
On the stock 3s power with stock fan and 2040 motor I was getting 260 watts * wot. With the thrust tube and 4s 1800mah I am now getting 417 watts with more thrust due to smaller exit pressure ports. I have bought a second kit which I plan on using the following motor **>2x PRODUCT ID: ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: EDF55-DHS which goes with the ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: HK-SS50A will program low timing and high switch frequency 1x PRODUCT ID: TR-UBEC and 3 of these servos PRODUCT ID: HXT900 This thing will KICK ASS!!! FYI the ADH motor 300XL is the DON motor.
the link he give you is motor PRODUCT ID: EDF55-H300 and ecs is PRODUCT ID: F-20A , just copy paste (just the id )at QUICK SEARCH on the left ,for motor just paste EDF55-H300 , but i read at hobbyking forum the motor is underpower , to read it paste SU47 Twin 55mm EDF at forum search and select Show Topics then click go , hope this help you
Flaminio: is this the motor you purchased? Do you think it is underpowered? If so, what would the next size up motor be that would still fit the stock parts/fuse?
I'm using these engines and had no problems, use a Turnigy 2200 3S 20C lipo and lasts 4-5 minutes of flight, but you can use a Turnigy 4500 kv inrunner valued at 10.50 you will fly with plenty of power but the 2200 lipo will not last long.
On the stock 3s power with stock fan and 2040 motor I was getting 260 watts * wot. With the thrust tube and 4s 1800mah I am now getting 417 watts with more thrust due to smaller exit pressure ports. I have bought a second kit which I plan on using the following motor **>2x PRODUCT ID: ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: EDF55-DHS which goes with the ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: HK-SS50A will program low timing and high switch frequency 1x PRODUCT ID: TR-UBEC and 3 of these servos PRODUCT ID: HXT900 This thing will KICK ASS!!! FYI the ADH motor 300XL is the DON motor.
Really depends on what you put in it. Put this on a 4s system with two 5000kv motors and two 40 amp esc's and she becomes a rocket. Planning to put some 5 blade fans to replace the 3 blade ones but she already goes super quick
Respondendo a minha propria pergunta,eu usei este motor HK2627 EDF Outrunner 4300kv for 64mm com 2 Mystery 40A Brushless Speed Controller (Blue Series) Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 45~90C Lipo Pack Fico o bicho!Violento
On the stock 3s power with stock fan and 2040 motor I was getting 260 watts * wot. With the thrust tube and 4s 1800mah I am now getting 417 watts with more thrust due to smaller exit pressure ports. I have bought a second kit which I plan on using the following motor **>2x PRODUCT ID: ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: EDF55-DHS which goes with the ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: HK-SS50A will program low timing and high switch frequency 1x PRODUCT ID: TR-UBEC and 3 of these servos PRODUCT ID: HXT900 This thing will KICK ASS!!! FYI the ADH motor 300XL is the DON motor.
___JW I am so sorry but HOW do you tell. One of the guys said EPO is better so if it was EPO it would say so. I know what they stand for but what is the difference. I know the listing says a lot about EDF and we all know that is electric ducted fan. The guys above say it is EPS as if that is good??? PLEASE HELP
Kellyann. It's EPS for sure. I had one. Very strong EPS, is not going to get gator skin in the sun like EPO. My only piece of advise is to put some white or yellow strip for orientation. Being all black is difficult to tell if the plane is upside down.
Thanks for your input. EPS is not as durable as EPO. EPS seems to be a bit lighter. But EPO can resistant some impact/crash, and can be fixed without becoming a million pierces. I like EPO. Thanks again.
On the stock 3s power with stock fan and 2040 motor I was getting 260 watts * wot. With the thrust tube and 4s 1800mah I am now getting 417 watts with more thrust due to smaller exit pressure ports. I have bought a second kit which I plan on using the following motor **>2x PRODUCT ID: ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: EDF55-DHS which goes with the ADH300XL 2x PRODUCT ID: HK-SS50A will program low timing and high switch frequency 1x PRODUCT ID: TR-UBEC and 3 of these servos PRODUCT ID: HXT900 This thing will KICK ASS!!! FYI the ADH motor 300XL is the DON motor.
i have created a new thread for this plane
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/forum/forum _posts.asp?TID=15789&PID=111797#111797
hope you'll find it useful, i will start uploading my first maidens soon
I have a guestion on the rear fan openings. There is a cover to access the motors. Do I have to glue the fan housings to the cover, or the base of the fuse? Do I have to glue them or can they just sit in there? With the cover on it seems to hold them pretty good? I was thinking maybe some 2 sided tape to hold it together? Any thoughts?
Most EDF foam jets come with the fan. The assumption being that for the most part they will be glued in place. With the 55mm, if you want to be able to remove the engine hatch they would have to be glued to the hatch itself. Double backed tape would probably work if you want to go that route but it will still probably tear up the foam if you attempt to remove it. The main issue is how to attach the cover to the upper body.
Your right it is not in the instructions. All I can tell you is that with the twin 70mm model it is located on the center line of the body against a line that crosses this line from the most rear part of the canard wings.
It will work. Everything goes to the up position for up and the down position for down. I a turn the fins on one side go up while the other side goes down. This situation should make the plane rather sensitive to fly. The normal rudder function turns the front wheel.
I just got the SU-47 in, and people this jet is horrible!!! I dont recommend this jet to anyone..be warned right now. If you buy this jet you will be very very very very and very mad, like me.. ***r quality big time. cheap feel and marks over some parts of the wings and plane. trust me you dnt want this jet for the price it is to ship also..no way
Mine came out OK? I had no marks on the body and everything fit nice. I thought that it was pretty good overall. Having no real instructions for the "Kit" version required some extra searching on the internet. I had some confusion with the EDF engine as there are two fan blade adapters, one is a bit larger than the other, maybe to upgrade the motors? But overall I am very pleased. Maybe it's hit or miss? The plane looks so good! I am going to airbrush a "Ghost Skull" on the top of the plane.
This guy posts that everything sucks. I have been in modeling for 15 years, and hobby king is great! Cheap feel? the thing is 50 bucks and made of foam!! Go to your Local hobby store, have them order this from another manufacturer. pay 250$, and get the same thing. Hobby king is excellent, I have many of their products. not THE BEST...but for the money, you will nto beat it
Hi, Was wondering if two of these motors are too powerful: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor e/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14555 With such low wing loading I might rip them right off at take off...
I got this plane from FIY in ARF mode. Built in less than 45min. The stock EDFplusESC responded very well to 2.2 nano-tech 25C & Turnigy 2.2 20C. The plane flies excellent, the only weak point is the front landing gear that is easily broken. I glued a piece of plywood with a hole to replace the plastic one. Manouverability is superb. Rolls are absolutely axial, no bad tendencies. Landings need to be done carefully with some speed .
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Clayton
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OK, so this is not a good first EDF, I have gone through a series of misfortune and after making some repairs I have finally flown this. I have found the CG needs to be roughly 1/2 to 1" back from the wingtips. Since up elevator creates the effect of a aileron up wing spoiler as everything is connected by linkage. I have found that it helps to have some amount of down aileron at nuetral elevator so you get a flaps effect. This thing needs speed to get airborne so get some good esc's with heat sinks and some powerful motors. I had to use a 1300 Mah 3 S battery to get it off the ground and it was admittidly a short flight. If you wanted to have separate aileron servos and evelavtor servos the added weight in the back may help with the balance. It flew nicely once airborne. The one rock got sucked up and broke a fan blade so it didn't have the power it should have butwith high nose up I had good control. I'm thinking about buying a second kit now that I have some of the basic info to help it be more succesful. Hope you get one and sort it out so we can all learn from your efforts. !!!
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Cptn.Crunch
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Update-Aug 2. I modified the airframe to accept a single fan just ahead of the area for the original two fan position. I used the T-2815 4800 KV with a 40 amp SC and a 2200 Nano. Internal ducting was easy using depron and plastic pop bottle parts with the twin exit/efflux tubes reduced to the same size of other single fan setups. No dead weight but I did fill the flimsy nose cone with expanded Gorrila glue. Excellent flight performance, easily over 100kmh, rolls perfect and lands well with a little power on. Easily my favorite jet now.
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ng
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fixed 2x 4.3k out runner motor, power shld be enough to lift the plane. look through the manuel but unable to find the c.g. anyone can share the c.g of this plane? thanks
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supper sonic
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I haven't receaved my plane yet but have ben reading alot on it and it sounds like a good buy can't wate to get mine
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