Designed for planes only, the H-KING escs are an excellent choice for any plane requiring linear, sharp and reliable throttle response on a 10A ESC. H-KING speed controllers have strict end-of-line QC testing and are SMT (Pick-n-Place) in the same room as the through-hole soldering(wires, capacitor) and packaging is done. Improving quality and reducing contamination and inconsistencies due to transportation. The H-KING 10A comes pre set-up with LiPo settings and Auto cell detection. The H-KING Speed Controller includes a 1A BEC (Battery Elminator Circuit) to power your receiver, there is no need to have a seperate receiver battery. The H-KING range of ESCs are both economic and reliable. They are pre-setup with LiPo and auto cell detection so you can just plug it in and fly!
Is their anyone that know how to program this HK-10 into a Brush motor speed control with forward and reverse? Before anyone answers that it (Cant be done) don't think about answering. I am using two that has been programed now but the person that did it won't say how he did it. The only visual change was the removal of the black wire on the three wire motor side. They are used for robot wheel drive speed controllers.
I had this in my dumas swamp buggy with a hobbyking donkey motor(10A max).
After a couple of minutes it burst into flames. Terible smell.
No water inside the boat, and this was on on snow. Almost burned a hole in the boat.
Can't recommend this ESC, not with the donkey motor anyways.
Pulsating sounds like its drawing more current than the battery can supply. I would check the amp draw if possible. However I have found that my ESC has a timing issue and causes it to run rough at about 3/4 throttle on the 35mm Skyangel jets when running 3 cells. After this it smooths out again and is fine.
The 2122-1800 and the 2730-1700 are both able to draw more than 11 amps. You need to use a watt meter to determine the amp draw. Next would be to check the c rating of the lipo to see if it is able to deliver the amps required. Reduce the prop size until the ratings are within spec. Hope this helps!
I bought the esc to go with this motor (Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2122-1800kv Brushless Outrunner Motor) but it seems to cut out when full throttle. Fairly new to hobby and still learning about the electronics.
When the ESC pulsates it generally means that the motor is spinning too fast for the esc to pick up the phase. Now a 1700kv motor is not that fast, so I'm more prone to think you have something else wrong. You may have a dud ESC as I've used myne on a 2000kv motor ant it manages just fine.
hey guys i baught this esc as an upgrade to my hobbyking mini swift with the recommended motor for the upgrade. Also i have added an hobbyking 9g servo to replace the cheap aileron, i have also added a gyro to the aileron as the mini swift is very squerly. The problem i am having is that when i plug my zippy 2s 800mah batt in after a while the esc becomes hot without me turning the motor on ?? does this mean the added servo and the gyro is pulling too much for the esc to handle?
Gyro should not draw much current as also the servo at rest. Is the gyro making that servo work all the time ?
The BEC on this ESC is rated 1A. Have you any means to measure how much your ESC is drawing from battery when mootor is at rest ?
I don't get the ESC to arm with 3 cells LiPo. When it arms with 2 cells LiPo it gives 5 beeps instead of the expected 2. I have programmed it for LiPo (at least done the procedure described in the manual). Anyone has any suggestions on how to make it run with 3 cells?
first, check your lipo batt is of 12.6 v for 3 cell. next, re prog your esc:
1.throttle to full, connect battery
2. you will hear the multi tone followed by 3 more beeps for 3 cell.
if at this point, you only hear 2 beeps, try it with another battery.
try this first. hope it helps.
(full set of instruction under the 'file' tab)
If your's is pulsating with no prop I would not worry about it as in normal flight the motor will most likly never spin that fast. Concerning my mod ità*s only for 1S operation as 2S operation after the mod can blow both ESC and RX as I eliminate the BEC circuit for 1S operation.
Oh and BTW I've run into pulsating problems when I test small high KV motors on my 30A bench testing ESC. It probabbly looses sync with motor because it's not fast enough but it works fine on upto 2000kv motors on 3S tension so my guess is that the limit for that ESC is somewhere around 24000 revs/min a little lower then the 37000 stated in the manual.
I'm having the precise same problem as Tycarp. I'm using it ó*n a HK piaget epp. The engine is a C20 Pro 1100kv, 8x4 prop and 2's 800 mah 20C. The recomended esc is a 10 AMP in the instruction manuel. Whats the problem?
I've an 8x4 prop on a 210W 1100kv motor not sure it's the right prop for your motor/battery setup and I was unable to find the specs of the C20 1100kv motor to give you any better help. The 1500kv C20 has useless specs telling you that on 9v you are to use a 8x4 prop but unless you use nicad you'll never run this motor on 9V as S2 never gets that hight and S3 you'd better stop before you kill the lipo.
Using this to run a Turnigy 3020, 2s with an 8x4.3 prop. For some reason it wants to surge quite drastically at anything above 50% throttle. Then sometimes it will beep 3 times constantly and won't start unless you move the throttle up and then reset back to zero and go up to get the motor running. Can't figure this out. It should be drawing right at 9 to 10 amps wide open which I never get to full throttle before surging or cutting off completely. This thing should be able to handle that amperage. Any body got an idea??? Want to get this plane in the air and can't!!!!!!!!!!!
Have you the 1800 or 1200 KV version ? In bothe cases the ESC you are using is smaller then what's suggested (12A or the 1200 KV and 20A for teh 1800 KV). The trottle thing you haveto do is called "Arming the ESC" you can program ESC not to do this if you really dislike it. But be warned that it's implemented for safety. The surging above 50pcnt trottle is not normal onless it happens without prop mounted (and again would still be rather odd on a 1800 KV morot running on S2 lipo). Check that the ES
Most ESC shut off power to motor if they start receiving fluctuating pulse signals from receiver and this is not one that is an ecceprion to this.
The point is that you really do not wnat to be flying close to the range limit of your TX/RX system.
ok Ic, weell, i tried turning the tx off while running the motor on the ground it did not stop, i was about 3 meters away from the plane. With regard to the out of range shut-off ... i have not yet tested it.
Oh ... maybe it was I was unable to arm it while attempting to use this ESC to control tail rotor of a toy heli. Your first concern, if you ever loose control of your plane, should allways be whether anyone could get injured. This still holds true even if you fly an expensive model. Electric planes are a subtlle hazzard because the make little noise.
I guess it depends on the structure of the ESC, if it runs internally on a voltage higher than 3.7, you would need to step-up the voltage, and maybe also change the firmware on the ESC to change the PWM signal for the updated voltage. I don't know if it's worth it to go through all this when there are other cheap ESCs that work on 1S :/
I did a little search and it appears that the heart of this ESC is a C8051F330 MCU that should be capable of running on voltages as low as 2.7V that would be beont the lowest voltage that is safe to discharge a lipo.
I shorted the input and output V on the bec circuit and I got I got this thing working resonably on 1S lipo. There is a little issue on full throttle with no load but with a prop the motor will never spin that fast.
Beware that if you do this you can burn out the ESC and RX if you connect anything that has more then 5V (so in this condition it's only safe for 1S lipo or 4S NiCd).
The MCU actually is normally powered at around 3.3V but I was unable to thace how it's regulated down from the 5V BEC circuit.
Mena142: lipo nominal voltage is 3.7V but the operation voltage range goes from 4.2V (when fully charged) down to around 2.9V (when you're better off if you recharge).
I have one programming card coming in the mail so I cant tell you right now. What I can say is, that this ESC can be programmed with the Tx for Brake, Motor direction and battery type, and I've done all 3 succesfully. That being said, I don't know what else would you need to program into it :/.
I can confirm that S2 and S3 work fine. I tried single cell operation and I got the motor spinning but as soon as you try to put on some torque it starts missing phases. I.m investigating if it's possible to make some hardware mod to make it work properly on S1 lipo .
Ok I did a little search and it looks like the MCU in this thing is a C8051F330. This MCU should be able to operate in 2.7 to 3.6V with an absolute max of 4.2V. It may be possible that with a little hardware mod this ESC could operate on S1 Lipo.
Depends what you mean by programmable:
If you intend some very basic oprions on the way the ESC operates (Like mena142 said) ... yes
if you intend advanced oprions like proportional brake, exponential response, current mode or what more ... no
if you intend changing the ESC firmware .... possibly but I'm nor sure on this but I'd rather spend my time flying or making plane rahther then fiddling with ESC firmware.
Since i didnt asked for any very advanced options to program like the ones you mentioned so no that was not what i ment. I ment the normalt type of options that 99% of the ESC here have. But i have already got my answer it is programmable.
It depends: if you just want an ordinary bi-motor plane you will want to control both esc on one channel, if you want to use the engines to controll some sort oc movement like yaw,roll or pitch you might want to have them connected on different channels.
Many ESC won't move the motor if they don't receive a correct PWM signal, that is a safety feature in case of interferience and such stuff. I think you would rather have a problem with voltage than amperage, ESCs run on 5v on the signal side and it should at least beep the motor if that condition is met. If you don't get any beeps whatsoever, check the connections to the motor or try a diff motor, or else, the ESC isn't receiving a valid signal from your Arduino board.
Ranz Delfin am glad that you find the answer.
you can reverse the motor by exchanging the connection of any of your two motor wires out of three.
But you need to ask a new question for your new QUESTION. lol....you keep getting answers and no one gets credit
It depends on what G-Bee you talking about, but in general that plane calls for a fast motor. It specifies the power system on the product page. You should specify what prop you plan to use, but with that 1550kv motor you prop will burn out that small 10a esc. This ESC is good enough for a 8x4 prop with a 2s, maybe a 3s too. The motor page also specifies the recomended prop and esc. Good luck!
If you are talking about the balsa-kit GeeBee 600mm model then yes, it will work. I would highly recommend the 12A 'Blue Series' ESC though as it has a higher burst rating and smoother throttle curve. It also has many more programming options. I would recommend GWS 8040 on 2s and no more than a 7x4 on 3s.
Planning to use at least two of these little ESCs for a B-17 conversion project but keeping each ESC separable for some of my other micro planes. So I try not to cut wires for those ESCs (and using UBEC to power the receiver). My question is: if each ESC maximal 1A current, how many current will be if four of them linked in parallel for a four BL motor plane? Will this overload the receiver?
1A x 4 = 4amps of available power. The receiver only draws as much amps as the servos ask so it will be safe. It's like a battery, you may have 2200mAh at 30C, but that doesnt mean that 60amps will be pushed into your motor, just what it "asks for".
Another solution is to get a cheap servo extension wire and cutting the red wire from it on. That way you can limit cut the power from one esc without damaging the esc wires itself.
I've also seen people taking out the pins so they can put them back into the connector. That's harder to do though.
No sure if mine is ok.
The cell count beeps 5 times,but im using a 2 cell lipo.
When trough the program many time,no problem, but the cell count is always 5.
Try 3 kind of 2 cell, try a 3 cell batterie, all fully charge and have the same behavior,5 beeps
Motor as a hard time starting with this ESC, but it runs ok when i swap ESC for an other one of same amp.
Any sugeestion on how to fix this ESC to detect the right cell count, or is it just good for garbage?
My Lipo are fully charge and balance, 3 of them brand new from this year.All of my lipo, 5 of them, get same cell count from this ESC...5 beep, when i should get 2.Maybe my ESC is just a defect one!?How can it beep 5 time if this ESC is made for 2s and 3s?
Ehhh, don't think so. It says, beep count for lipo, not NiMH. Went throught program many time,and change batteries setting just to test, and either way , motor as a super rough start, with tons of bipping before it start moving.
If it cuts off at the correct voltage then why would you worry :/?...Just test it with a voltage indicator attached and if it cuts, it's ok then... Maybe it's just the ESC telling you that it's armed or something..
did anyone work out how to fix the 5 beeps issue ??
mine is doing it with 2 brnd new 2s 350mah lipos
trying to turn the HobbyKing 1612 Brushless Outrunner 3200KV...
following instructions isnt helping ?
Rather good ESC. It comes with a colorful instruction, with many pictures. Everything is clear described - how to connect and how to program. The programming functions are: Battery type Brake behavior Motor direction
It works with 2S-3S LiPo FDS6680A MOSFETS are used in the ESC. Max Amp raiting is 12.5A, so I think it can hsndle continuous 10A with ease. LM2940 is used as a BEC, that's why it is true 1A max.
So I,ve bought 3 of them and I think I'll buy more!!!