The HobbyKing Universal Heater System features temperature adjustment and a thermal sensor to allow temperature control from 30 to 80 degrees celcious. With a voltage range of 7.4v to 12v the heater can be powered by a 2s to 3s lipo. Add one to your transmitter glove and fly in luxury this winter, warm the tyres on your car or pre-heat your lipo in winter or even summer for the best performance. Pre-heating a Lipo pack to 30degC in winter will give your model much better performance, right from the start.
Specs: Input: 7.4v to 12v Temperature: 30~80deg Celcious Sensor: LM35DZ - Precision Centigrade Temperature Sensor Heat Pads: 310x80mm Amp Draw: 5.2A @ 12v Input Connector: 2 x Alligator Clips
I guess you could wrap it around your (glow?) engine and heat it that way. But you would be bending and stressing the heat element to get it around the cylinder, who knows how long it would last. I think it's mostly intended for semi-fixed installations.
I would'nt run it on 12v "as is". Get's way too hot. But if you mod the pads to be connected in series you would reduce the current to 1.7A, and the pads will be more happy. :) Still get's more than enough heat. Hope this helps.
I see this system is ok for a 2S-3S lipo setup, so i guess the upper limit is 12.6v. I want to use this system in a heated lipo storage box for flying on the cold days, where the box will be connected a running car, which i think puts out 14.4v.
Has anyone tried running this heater system at this sort of voltage with positive results?
Considering that at least two people state that 3S gives way too much heat, I imagine that the thing would burst out in flames with 14.4V! I think you need to get the voltage down to 8V. I use it with a 2S 5000mAh LiPo, which generates a suitable amount of heat for my transmitter glove. It would seem that inside a somewhat insulated box, 2S voltage and this heater would keep your LiPos warm enough. I also would make sure the LiPos are physically separated from the heating elements, considering possible temperature sensor failures with element overheating as consequence. HTH
Hi, thanks for your answer, but i think i didn't explain myself properly. I'm not looking to run it full power at 14.4v, i just want to make sure i wouldn't overload the electronics by having an input voltage of 14.4v max. I actually would set the thermostat low as needed to keep the lipos as warm as needed in the car. Thanks for the tip on keeping the heating elements seperate.
OK, I was a bit unclear too. I hear an on-off sound (a click) from the thermostat when it is working, so I don't really think it is regulating on an analog level, but rather in a full blast on, completely off mode, regulating the medium power to be in accordance with the dial. I'm not 100% sure about this (haven't measured), but it's something you really should check because if this is right, then while the thing is switched on, you really have full blast on 14.4V, so the heat will rise very quickly! Just in case eyh!
OK, I measured how it actually operates: When only the red LED is lit (connected to the battery but thermostat off), there are zero volts over the heating elements. When the thermostat turns on (yellow LED lit), there are 6.7V over the heater, with a battery voltage of 7.4. So with 14.4V you should get something like 13.7V over the heater, which translates to around four times as much power! So if 3S already is a bit much, chances are the whole thing will just burn up with 14.4V.
This item is perfect for creating a Lipo heater box.
My heaterbox based on these pads has seen a lot of use over the past year (I fly F5B hotliners where we always preheat lipos). There's a thread on the build, check out RCGroups in the airplane> high-performance section and search for 'lipo heater box'. **** rcgroups **** /forums/showthread.php?t=1459652&highlight=lipo heater box (remove the spaces).
Works in a running car too, no problem.
Hey Crank, I assume you ran it on the car battery, i.e. 14.4V or so? Gerben made a suggestion about using a brushed ESC and a servo tester. To me that sounds downright smart, and pretty cheap too (so maybe that would work for you). HTH
Hi Lasse. Yep, around 14V. :) Have the items for that kind of setup laying around (bought them for that exact use), but just felt like testing it for melting ice on front windshield of car one morning. LOL. I believe it would've worked to just connect the pads in series to, seems ok on 12.6V on different setup. Phrasing non taken. :)
Hi Crank. You need to stick the thermostat to the pads themselves, on the foil side, near where the hwires inside the pads run. The thermostat will then avoid overheating of the pads. Even better is to put the pads between 2 plates of aluminium to spread the heat. That's how I've been using them for a long time now without problems (check my thread on 'heater box' at RC Groups in the High Performance section for some images.
I guess you could use a PWM power regulator instead of the unit with the temperature sensor, but that means buying a whole other type of unit. If you check the discussion above this one you see that the regulator is of on-off type, with a regulation of the mean temperature being close to what you want, so I really can't see a simple mod to get what you want. HTH
I don't understand the question? The tempsensor feeds back into the thermostat, where the potentiometer in the thermostat determines the on/off temperatures. So both are needed to cotrol and set the desired temperature.
Gerben, you are right. But I interpret the question like so: "Can I somehow regulate the power to the heater directly with this unit without using feedback from the temperature sensor", but that is not possible since this is an on-off regulator, which uses the temperature sensor to get the average power correct for the set temperature. If the unit would have been a pwm regulator instead of a simple on-off one, then it would have been possible to do without the temp sensor.
hi gromuluss, i soldered the pads in parallel and bind it with a 2200mAh battery and the thermostat on 30degrees. Now I get a constant heat in the glove of 25 degrees. The pads become about 45degrees max (not burning hot for your hands). I have about 1hour and 15 minutes of heat on a 2200mAh (with 3,4V left on the cells). Putting two batteries parallel you get about 2,5 hours of comfortable heat (and some extra weight around your neck :-)) No change of melting things or burning your hands. On the bottom of the glove i have put a piece of thermobag that is used in supermarkets to keep things hot or cold. It reflex the heat and keep the heat a little more inside the glowve. The pads I have put next to each other on the bottom of the glow. Using velcro. Hope I have helped you
James not sure what your did mate but i've been using mine in my TX glove now for a good couple of years and never had a problem with it,plus i put my heat sensor as close as i can to the pads but not on them,i doubt many people would want to crank this unit up to the max as some might do,a bit of common sense always help when using electrics and IMHO i thought it was well made for the price,so now when i go out and fly in our winter i have nice toasty hands,not hot but nice and warm when i set the temp to around the 30 degrees mark.
Destrozò* la bateria de lipo. Es agradable tener caliente las manos pero realmente son demasiadas las modificaciones que se deben hacer al producto. o vuelo o estoy atento a la bateria de lipo. Ambas cosas no se pueden hacer. NEGATIVO
short out a lipo yes you wont need the heater unit because you wont have hands to use it on lol. these heater units are tramendous from what ive been told so im considering on getting myself one for the price you cant go rong so why not it keeps hands warm in winter when out racing rc truck's,boat's,plane's etc so i recommed this to everyone *)
Sounds like a very bad idea. When the thermostat sensor somehow is not connected to the pads (it can fall off easily), the heating wires reach temperaturs over 80C, which could result in serious burns. Bad idea, don't do it!
you cannot put it in your pocket. The control unit which you see ont the photo is as small as a cigarette package, but the heating strips (that give the actual heat) are 2 strips with aluminium about the size 20cm x 4 cm and they become very very hot. Even white the temp. on 30 degrees. You will burn your hands.
If you google series vs parallel circuits, you'll find a wealth of information that should help you out. Right now, you're wired in parallel. You'll need to cut the wires and do some soldering to make them into series. I'm sure once you see it you'll be able to make it happen.
Hi Chowdher, I managed it (indeed easy to do if you understand it) and it works very very good for my transmitter glove. Temperature around 50 degrees on the path (not burning hot) and a 25 stable in the glove. Thermo on 30 degrees. On a two batteries parallel binded :-)))(3s 2200mAh) I get 140 minutes of comfortable warmth with still 3,5V left on the cells. I want to credit you for this perfect idea but HK disabled the feature..? I'm now contacting support why? It think the discussion support is better then the HK support. I'm a so called 'elite member' so I can inform the director (!?). See where it gets me.
Hi Viper, this winter i'm flying with the heater and transmitterbag. Sometimes for 2 a 3 hours. Just warm hands and no condensation. I can also see / read my transmitter display through the 'window'. That would be impossible with condensation. It's the same as flying in summer.
Probably yes, but no, i would not recommend that. This device usually outputs about 5 amps max. Your wire cutter would probably require more. I have a wire cutter and i use a standard PC power supply to power it (at 12V). The deluxe version would be a laboratory power supply station that will offer more control.
No it will not. This is just a relay, controlled by a thermostat. The thermostat is too slow to follow the heating up of the wire, which happens very quickly. Better off to regulate your temperature by the length of wire and supply voltage. Use An alligator clip on one side of the wire and slide it to make the Nicrhome wire shorter untill you reach desired temperature.
Version 2 of the heater control needs to have low voltage cutoff, and perhaps a 2S/3S voltage switch for the cutoff, although most are using it at 2S. Also, Alligator clips? Maybe that will suffice for heating tires, but the first thing I'd do if I was using this for my TX mitt would be to lop the clips off and replace them with an XT60 plug. The last thing I'd want would be to short it on something while I'm flying something.
I did exactly the same. I also added velcro in the back of the heater pads so they don't slip.
In addition, i created a little pocket to place the box inside the mitt to avoid moving the potentiometer accidentally and get burnt.
I put a watt meter on mine. 3s 2200mAh set at 40° ant i ulls 60W and 6A only while it is getting up to temp then shuts off. My battery is only 15C and OLD!!! I will run on 1000 mAh battery but you will have to charge/change it regularly! 20C would be ample.
Why would you want to run this off a lipo? Run it off your 12V power supply or car battery when used as a tyre heater. When using as a transmitter glove heater get 2 packs of 3S5000mAh and run in parallel. A voltage alarm is a good idea also. While heating it draws between 6-8Amp, so a small lipo will be drained pretty quickly.
Is even used for heating up the lipo's to a certain temperature, ut than a thermosenser is extra fitted for not to overheat. This all to get a better performance out of the F5B Hotliner drive unit
To heat up a methanol motor? Should work. Don't heat up to much 15 to 25 degrees Celcius would do.
My OS 46AX starts best when 'cold', heated it's a dog to start...
I used these for a Lipo heater system, check out the thread on RCgroups, in the High Performance section. As standerd it has about 7 degrees hysteresis, with just 2 extra resistors this can be modified to only 1.5C. Works great, have been using the heatr box for almost 6 months now, every weekend (always heat my lipo's to 35C, flying F5B). Regards, Gerben
The procedure is described in the thread on RC Groups, I've included an image where it shows the littler modification, which involves adding just 2 resistors. Can't really add direct links over here, but try this without the blanks in the middle: ***********rcgroups. www.link
thanks, found it,
but if i do exactly like you did, the hysteresis raises! 25k on the right and 3.5k on the left.
but different pcb(yellow, and slightly different markings on the chip itself...)
Not sure if you have a different PCB. I assume the thermocouple/sensor is placed right against the heating coils on the pads? Might wish to try a 50 or 100k on the right, might possibly help. If that doesnt work I'm out of ideas unfortunately.
I'm wondering when this heater will be back in stock. All these comments of different people make me suggest that it's gonna take a long time. I've orderd one but i'm also waiting for the other parts of my order. I hope you can give me more information about that. Thanks!
I spoke to the lovely customer service and they are scheduled to be back in stock in mid May 2011. To be honest - I am waiting for mine and not cancelling the order, because I know I will eventually need it in the winter! :)
One thing to think about. 5.2A times 12V equals 60 Watts Max. I would be careful putting 60 Watts of Heat close to your hands. Thats like putting a light bulb in your TX glove. Might make a good coffee cup warmer. Maybe put it in your boots on the outside of your sock. I too would use a Nicad or Nimh pack if there is no LVC.