Designed especially for FPV (First Person View) camera flight! This is a true FPV plane thats easy to build and comes packed with common sense FPV must-haves such as rear mounted servos for the elevator and rudder to help counter balance the additional radio gear, rear servos can also be moved up and down the tail's Carbon Fiber shaft to adjust CG. The narrow fuselage helps glide rates for longer flight times and yet it still has a large area for and aft of the CG to move the battery for better balancing when using heavy camera/Tx gear. Rear mounted 10inch pusher-prop diameter motor-mount keeps motor and esc away from the camera to reduce noise. EPP foam makes the plane very resistant to crashes and rough landings. The EPP-FPV glider has a twin CF-Spar 1.8m wingspan for higher, longer flight times with a wide range of camera equipment. The HobbyKing EPP-FPV has 4 channels (Ail, Rud, Elev, Thr) for agile performance and is reinforced with 2 CF spars on the main wing, a CF tail boom and CF elevator spar plus the ailerons have flat CF rods for stifness during fast turns or dives. The mian wing can be removed easily for transport.
The HobbyKing EPP-FPV can take any number of batteries however we recomend a 2600~4500mAh 3S pack for long flight times and good CG balance.
Hi, W. A RTF FPV system will be either too expensive or a waste of money. If you consider your level good enough to fly this plane, I recommend you: motor Turnigy 3536-1400KV, ESC 60A Hobby King ss series, 5A BEC, 10x6 prop, 4x 11-12g metal gear servos, FATSHARK Predator V2 complete fpv system, OSD system suppo pigeon from eBay. Maybe you could consider tundra style wheels to make it fly off anywhere. All around $4oo. Happy flying
Hi, D. That's impressive, but everybody's building style is different. I overpower any aircraft, especially FPV, as a rule. Where I fly its common to have sudden gusts at high altitudes (500 feet and above), so Better safe than sorry. My flight times on the above setup are 17 minutes on a 3s Zippy 3700mAh, that includes powering the FPV from the same battery. Happy flying.
Would somebody be kind enough to outline the extra parts required for this. For instance, the length of servo extension leads. I know that a 5000mAh batt is best. Any thoughts on the best motor/prop/ESC combo that would be better than what is suggested, and anything you thought that should have been included but was not. I have helped alot of guys out on the discussions and now I need help. I am tired of having to order twice to get one model in the air. Thanks in advance
Hi, CF. Usually the max on servo extention cables is around 60cm, so I suggest buy one, or make your own dpending on your desired CG. Reasonable system is: Turnigy 3536-1400KV motor, 60A SS series Hobby King ESC, any 5A BEC, 10x6 Airscrew type prop. For an FPV system, one choice is the Fatshark Predator V2 full combo. Ultimately it depends on what do you want from the plane. Happy flying
The first FPV flight there was no wind at all and it was success although the flight felt heavy.
At the second flight the wind (15 –* 25 kph) win the airplane and forced it to land 300 meter away.
The third was disaster, there was wind (8 –* 15 kph), the airplane didn't turn and was uncontrollable.
For my opinion there could be a few problems:
1. The motor not strong enough
2. Cable unplugged during the third flight
3. My settings are wrong (prop or something)
4. I should replace the plane
This is my airplane settings:
Airplane: EPP-FPV 1.8M X-Large EPP & Carbon Fiber R/C Plane
Motor: NTM Prop Drive Series 35-36A 1400Kv / 550W
ESC: TURNIGY Plush 60amp Speed Controller
Prop: TGS Sport 10x5E Precision propeller
Servo: Corona Digital Servo 2.2kg / 12.5g / .11sec
Thanks, It's really need help on that
Disclaimer: I do not own this model (but a very similar one with your same motor). Having said that, 1) The motor is strong enough, 25Km/h is a moderate wind, and this plane should do over 50Km/h with this motor* 2) only you can anser* 3) Everything seems ok, but you did not mention your battery: you should use a 3S (enough) or 4S (more than enough) - with 2S you would be on the edge of barely flying, and certainly not enough to weather 25Km/h front winds* and 4)no need, but if your third flight landed abruptly... cyano makes wonders.
Thanks for your help
but i have got the impression (after spending some time in forums) that this model have a tend to crash, It is not stable at all... i wish to find some modification to improve it or that i'll buy some other model
This plane seems to have small tail and fin surface for its size (compare it with the Raptor or the Skywalker, for instance), and that would make it less manageable, the head size makes it sensitive to side winds, the CG placement, very often wrongly stated on manuals (and the small tail does not help to compensate), the downthrust of the engine... all these factors make all FPV planes like the ones I mentioned hard to balance, but don't give up. Check your throws (too much? too little?), and your CG - A straight wing should have the CG around its thickest point, about 1/3 of the wing chord (simple rule of thumb) - I always go by this rule, no matter what the manual says, but most often than not mine and specs CG match. And if you decide to go for a new plane, a Bixler 2 is an excellent first FPV platform.
TO EVERYONE! please sign this partition against Oregon senate bill 71. WE need to help them and we dont want this to spread to the rest of the world. Even here in australia im not meant to fly FPV anywhere exept the local club (gets boring). ***********change****/petitions/oregon-sen
Hi, Ron. You need motor (Recommend Turnigy 3536-1400KV, search for it on this website), Electronic Speed Controller(ESC)(60Amper min, Recommend hobby king 70 Amper ss series, cheap and cheerful), 3 Servos (Recommend 9-12 gramm metal gear), propeller. And of course Transmitter/Receiver plus battery (Recommend min 3000mAh 3s, 25c minimum). All above is available on this website. Happy flying.
Thanks majik01. Well, first i need config the tx/rx and i´*m waiting too the power supply to my accucel 8 (unfortunately i made a mistake when i bought 120v instead 220v) to charge the battery, so maybe in one month, i will do my first flight, and then, i will put my first flight here, flight in cokckpit view mode... :-P
depends how big they are.it si youst one main carbon fiber in the wing,if you cut to much out it will make the wing weak and the carbon can lose from the foam.i have two of this plane now,and newer lose to the carbon from the wing.but offcourse i never cut to mouch foam from the wing.how big are they?
Being me i would get thin solar panels and sire them in serial to get correct bolatge on 1 wing and do sam on other then where they connet wire then into parrallel on battery plug with battery as a reharge when motor is off for a slow recharge... I doubt the solar panels will exceed 5-8A
we bring back the vdieo flow to the computer through a analog_RCA-to-USB converter, then we use OpenCV for the tracking analysis and finaly we send to the UAV the appropriate instruction to move the camera.
now, it is just so you can save money, but it doesnt mean anything whether it is a pusher prop or normal prop, the only difference between the to, is the direction of rotation, meaning clockwise or counterclockwise. normal props are easier to get, and cheaper in most cases :)
Type your review here. Try to include as much data as possible. I have bought this fine airplane, but the instruktions manual is not OK. On page 2 it saids that the CG is 100-120mm behind leading edge of wing and on page 8 it saids that CG is 45-55mm behing leading edge of wing. What is right and that is wrong.
7 comments. Reply..
11 thumbs up!
Manual is OK but the English is not great. Putting it together is pretty simple except the servos for the elevator and rudder. They are connected via a very flimsy bracket and the push-rods are so long they bend moving the elevator and rudder (even using the bracing brackets) reducing their usefulness. They are also low enough to be ripped off in landing. Instead of using the crappy bracket I embedded the rudder and elevator servo in the rear control surfaces and ran the servo wires through the tail shaft into the fuselage. This makes the aircraft much more streamlined and the servos fit perfectly. COG benefits from moving the servos around is lost but I made a bracket for my receiver which slides up and down the tail shaft which provides the same benefit.
1 comment. Reply..
9 thumbs up!
A series of videos reviewing this model are now available on the RCModelReviews YouTube Channel. There are also some useful tips to help during the build of this model.
14 comments. Reply..
4 thumbs up!
Been flying helicopters for a year or so, and decided to try a plane/fpv. Well, let me tell you building planes is nothing like building heli's. You have to measure/cut for most everything, as opposed to the simple "put bolt A in hole B and use nut C. Instructions were enough, but not great.
Some things leave me scratching my head a bit. Like why the tail servo holders are too small to fit HXT900's, which has to be the most popular 9g servo Hobbyking sells. I also wish they would have included something more rigid than the plastic tubing for the pushrod guides. Perhaps hollow carbon fiber tubes.
Well I set off to maiden, and after getting things balanced right and trimmed, it was in flyable condition. Having 40 acres, I decided to fly at home and managed to stall into a power line behind me. Wing detached and only minor damage (2 inch section of epp missing near wing attachment point).
It seems to fly a little quicker than I was anticipating, but this is my first plane, so it's a little exciting/nerve-racking for me anyways.
1 comment. Reply..
4 thumbs up!
I just finished putting one of these together.
It flys very well and handles a good deal of weight. the one trouble is that the spars are prone to splittien if you pull a high G manouver
Mine split on the second flight after I pulled out of a dive. The spars didn't compleetly fail and I was able to land her Just fine but I did take the spars out and bind them with Kevlar thread and then glue them back in.
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