Its no “Mystery” where these ESCs are made, now they are available to you at HobbyKing prices.
Built with imported N-Channel mosFET's and an ultra fast Atmel MCU & heartbeat make this a high performance ESC with excellent sync capabilities. This ESC has a 2A BEC for solid reliable servo power. Programmable via an R/C controller.It allows you to program all functions to fit your specific needs, which makes it efficient and user friendly.
Features: Extremely low internal resistance Super smooth and accurate throttle linearity Over heat and over-load protection Auto shut down when signal is lost or radio interference becomes severe for more than 2 seconds Supports high RPM motors Power arming protection (prevents the motor from accidentally running when switched ON) New Advanced programming software
Programming features: Brake setting (we recommend using brake for only folding props applications) Battery type(LiPo or NiCd/NiMh) Low voltage cutoff setting Factory default setup restore Timing settings (to enhance ESC efficiency and smoothness) Soft acceleration start ups (for delicate gearbox and helicopter applications) Governor mode(for helicopter applications) Motor rotation( clockwise\counterclockwise) Switching frequency Low voltage cutoff type (power reduction orirnmediate shutdown)
Factory default settings: Brake: off Battery type Detect: LiPo with Automatic Cell Low voltage cutoff threshold: Medium (3.0V/65%) Timing setup: Automatic Soft Acceleration Start Up: Medium Governor mode : OFF Frequency : 8kHz Low voltage cutoff type: Reduce power
how much time will we need to wait to get these? it seems to me that they never get in stock.. is it cause they are so much in demand that they are all sold before they are back in stock and i should order now?
Hi David, They're not good .... they're great! I've been using BlueSeries 20A, 30A, and 40A ESCs as my first choice for 2 years and have not had one fail. The best feature is the auto-timing. The default settings are all you ever need, just plug them in and go fly. The auto-timing feature adjusts the motor timing based on a nice little algorithm that compares timing increse to rpm increase and set the timing to the most efficient timing in terms of power output vs. power consumption. Cheers, EA!
Hi David, I take back my statement about never having one of the BlueSeries ESCs fail. I plopped one of my little 3D foamies into the saltwater canal behind our house. The ESC didn't like it, nor did the receiver! LOL Cheers, EA!
The item said in stock it's been weeks going on a month. I've been trying to cancel for over a week for a product that was "in stock" I was told I could cancel but they need confirmation from the warehouse. If you "can" cancel but it takes months for it to go through and maybe a month to ship I call that a scam. There is no CS they keep giving me a runaround. Nobody even knows the true status of an order. Ill keep posting until they decide to actually do something. If the reason for delay is they have a holiday that even worse. I started taking pics of how this company treats their shoppers. Beanhimself*yahoo**** if anyone wants to be informed by someone who isn't associated with this company.
When an order has been placed, it is sent to the warehouse's printer for the order to be pulled. Once pulled it will be shipped in a couple three days time. If the order is a JIT item, it can take 3 to 5 days just to be printed for packing. Then that order will usually be shipped a couple of days later after that. The whole process is very time consuming. JIT items seem to take longer to get out of the Peoples Republic of China border as opposed to Hong Kong. At around the Chinese New Year things slow down substantially regarding the shipping process. What can take a week and a half to two weeks for shipping can take 30 to 45 days if not a bit longer. It's the way things are this time of year. The moral of this story is it's all about patience. HK's customer support are great folks and very helpful, give em' a chance to make it right with ya.
This ESC comes with barewire, you can buy XT60 coonector for the 3S lipo and bullet connector for the motor. Or you can solder the motor directly to the lead wires. There is no need to change to 10AWG wire.
That's right, only one will feed KK2 plate on the port M1.
United red pins to the ports M2-8, and there may be used the ESC through the red wire.
Except that, to get one ESC connect to M1 and M2-8, servos, then you must also bring voltage for M2-8.
Im sorry RC Hady, but I cannot understand what you are trying to say. From what I have read I know that the the M1 port powers the board and that if your using switching ESC's that you have to disable the red wires on ESC's plugged into ports M2-8. I only want to confirm that either yes, I have to cut the red wires or no, I do not have to cut the red wires on these ESC's.
What hady is saying is that ONLY one esc should power the board, cut the red wire on the other three. These have switching ESC so they will cause problems if all are connected. it does not matter if its m1 or 2 or 3 etc as long as its only one ESC that has the red wire connected.
So long answer short: Yes cut three of them.
it's back stock! it's urgent, my quadcopter using these 4 ESC and one it's burnt! i need one!! anyone can intro me 20A esc almost similar to this HobbyKing 20A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller??? please reply fast!
Hi Bryan, The HK BlueSeries 20A ESC and the Mystery 20A ESC are the same. The BlueSeries are made for HobbyKing by Mystery, and HK even hints at that in the BlueSeries description. The Mystery 20A ESC is in stock (see PRODUCT ID: MY20ABEC) for $10.26, just a little more expensive than the BlueSeries. Cheers, EA
I always use HK Blueseries ESCs to drive my outrunners. I have not seen any problem with them yet. I mean they can handle their rated value as describe. So the answer is "YES". But take care that the prop is not larger than 11x4.7 size.
Yes, it can. If you are building multirotor, then for dt750 set props 10x4,7 if take off weight <1.2kg and 11x4,7 if you are >1.2kg. With 11x4,7 props dt750 does not draw much Amps so even plush18 can handle it, so for this ESC that will not be a problem at all. Regards
Hi, just tested the esc, and got a very strange behaviour:
if I slowly move the stick from the full down position, the esc suddenly spins the motor very fast (for about half a second), then it slows down and work correctly.
Second: the very soft start is not soft at all, it just spins immediately at the speed of the stick...
I need it for a 250 hely, but this way it's useless to me, it will break gears every few starts.
I calibrated the throttle correctly, in fact after the initial spin up it works very smoothly, and I tested all the available programming parameters... start, pwm timing, governor etc.
testeed on 3 different motors... nothing changes
Is my ESC defective or what?
thanks for helping
Hi Mik70, I haven't had any problems with this ESC, but I had a similar problem with a different ESC last year. If you're using a programmable Tx, make sure that your throttle channel trim (and sub-trim if you have that feature on your Tx) are both zeroed before you set throttle range. Also, make sure that the exponential is zeroed on the throttle channel. Make sure that the throttle channel isn't linked to any other channels via past programming settings. If none of this helps, you might want to trash the ESC as this sort of erratic behavior could be disastrous on a heli. Cheers, EA
It's a fair question. Reflashing seems like a lot of work, and is difficult with a risk of destroying the esc. I could understand wanting to do it if these escs were a lot cheaper, but there is only a few $ difference.I just thought there might be some other reason besides $ that I don't get. Just curious, that is all. Maybe HK should update the stock firmware to simonk or equal and save everyone the hassle.
Hi str8in, Fair enough that you asked the question. I've never been able to figure out why some people bother trying to re-invent the ESC wheel. If there are ESCs available for a few more bucks that have the specs you're looking for, why would you waste the time/money/effort toying with an inferior model to wind up with the same thing? And that's assuming that you didn't screw it up in the process. Cheers, EA
The plush can accept 400hz pwm input but it still has filtering on the output! Meaning it's nowhere near as quick as the blueseries with simonk firmware. Also, the new plush has silabs processors which are much harder to flash, and thats why you go for these:)
Thank's for that. I half expected there was a reason that I did not get at the moment. Can you give me some info or a thread to read up on about the filter that is on the output. What is the output filter? what does it consist of and how does it work? and why do they have it? Is it to limit RFI or to protect the motor windings from voltage spikes on the output?
Hi sarven, All wires are bare except for the Rx wire/plug. For the motor, 3.5mm polymax bullet connectors are the best and most common choice. If you're using HK LiPo packs >1000mah you will need male XT60 plug for the battery side. Cheers!
You'll have to reflash ESC firmware. If not familiar with electronics better to find a friend that is. There is possibility to ruin the ESC if doing it wrong. Something to read to:
I installed the esc, and programmed full throttle. How hot is normal for this? At 1/2 plus throttle the motor spins up then throttle down, over and over again. Why is it doing this, I cant get much power at half or more throttle.
Hi Arron, How did you set the throttle range? For this ESC you turn on Tx and set throttle stick to full on, then plug in battery for Rx/ESC, as soon as you hear a beep move the throttle stick to off position. If this doesn't work, then you need to look at whether your motor/prop set-up is drawing too many amps causing the ESC to cut out. Cheers!
forget about it, just use clear duct tape, much more lihter,especially on multicopters where i use from 4 to 8 of this escs,huge difference, and collecting all dust before it go inside esc, but if you still want to use shrink tube 30mm will be fine
Can anybody tell me how to make connections of this esc in a hexacopter?...im a newbie here...so dont know much about electronics...i have 6 brushless dc motors,2650mAh 3S liPo,6 of these esc and hobbyking t6 transmitter and receiver.
Plug in your motor (just switch any two leads to change motor spin direction) then stick the throttle lead (servo plug) in whatever board you are using for a copter brain. I use a multiwii and removed the black and red wires from all but 1 esc to my brain to avoid power spikes and ground loops. It really depends on your board as to where you plug each one in, maybe some more info would help us help you?
You also may want to set up the esc's for "nimh" mode instead of lipo, as running lots of ESC
well i wont say that it CANT be done, but i have never seen a multi rotor craft without some sort of "brain", either multiwii, KKboard, Mikrokopter, etc. At the very least an arudino type chip to convert your radio signals into motor speed outputs. I cant imagine trying to fly something without some sort of gyro/accelerometer help either. Check RC groups . com and search for "multiwii" and read up. Maybe you will find a way to build what you are hoping to with their help.
Not quite sure what your asking about the "vertical esc pins". This 20A ESC uses a SBEC for the output power to your RX. SBEC stands for "switching" battery eliminator circuit as part of your ESC. A UBEC or LBEC are linear output ESC's. The difference is that a "switching" SBEC turns on/off many times a sec to reduce the voltage to your RX. A UBEC/BEC uses a voltage regulator to lower the voltage to the RX.
I know the text on this page says SBEC, but can someone confirm this? I found pictures of the mystery 20A and it had two linear regulators in parallel and no sign of a SBEC transformer (round carbon coil). Thanks.
I stand corrected. I just ran some tests and the current can peak at 3.5A. Yes, it got hot, really fast, but should still be good enough for a 250 heli, especially with an extra capacitor (4700uf), to handle the peaks.
Just try it. Worse thing that could happen, is that motor will spin the other direction. In that case switch any two motor wires with each other.
Also 3 wires are because its for brushless motors(only). Brushed motor have 2 wires. Inrunner/outrunner doesn't change a thing.
Doesn't matter, hook all three to all three on the motor. Check to see if the motor turns in the proper direction with power applied. If so, all OK. If not, swap any two of the three connections to reverse the motor direction.
connect any 3 together. if the motor spins backwards then swap any 2 wires...
as for the other question. brush-less motors use the same principals as industrial 3 phase motors and are electrically wired in either a Delta or Y configuration. This is a more efficient means of providing power. The ESC acts as a frequency drive ( variable frequency ) instead of varying the voltage as in a DC ( 2 wire brushed motor) by not having a Comm and Brushes there is a major increase in efficiency and life of
outrunner motors are 3 phase....so all you do iz plug all the wires from the motor into the esc(it dosnt matter wich one goes where)and if the motor is spinning clockwise it goin the wrong way.all u have to do to fix tht is change any two wires around and it shud work.
you don't need to know the color, the ESC will work it out itself, the only thing it could happen is that it will rotate in reverse, if that happen, just take 2 of the wires and switch them and it will run the right way, and the fact that it has 3 wires is that it is a brushless motor, all brushless motor have 3 wires, and brushed one only have 2
Brushless motors all have three wires. The simply answer is that two wires provide power and one wire is used to sense the position of the rotor. You can connect the wires to the motor in any order. If the motor spins in the wrong direction, switch two of the wires and it will change direction.
presi 2, perfetti. ottimo regolatore al pari di quelli molto pi costosi, molto regolare l'accelerazione senza strappi o "buchi" a 20A continui con 3 celle risulta tiepido dopo 2 minuti. perfetto, confermo 5 stelle