Controlled by an Atmel Mega168PA 8-Bit RISC based micro controller and utilizing a single 3-axis MEMS gyro the Hobbyking i86 Multi-Rotor Control Board is capable of 8 Multi-rotor craft types and 2 flight modes without the need to flash the micro controller. The simple dip switch systems allows for quick and easy selection of your desired Multi-rotor configuration and flight mode.
Light weight and compact the i86 can fit in the smallest of craft and includes a small piece of double sided tape to install.
The Hobbyking i86 Multi-Rotor Control Board supports: Aero (fixed wing) Dual copter Tri copter Quad copter X Quad copter + Hex copter H6 copter Y6 copter All of the above modes can be set in "Normal" mode or "Sports" mode (default normal)
Specs: Input Voltage: 4v to 6v Input signal: 50hz standard PPM PWM Frequency: 400hz for ESC, 50hz for servos Gyro scale: +/- 500dps, ODR: 800hz Operating temp: -40° C to 85° C Size: 40mm x 40mm Weight: 8g
Salim, Once you reflash these boards, the original firmware can not be recovered. I've done an exhaustive search to see if it were possible for a customer and did not find any solution for either this or the Eagle N6 which is the same board. But you are asking about the i86L which is a little bit different than this board. These boards are very inexpensive and versatile and really do not need to be flashed. Sorry I didn't have a better answer for you. Happy flying!
Eddfoo, thanks I got the PDF, just to let you know, I used to think this game was just moving a few sticks and looks pretty easy eh! (NOT), Its a sharp learning curve and a whole new world to adventure in.. Problems appear and you indulge yourself to find out why, its the "why" how we learn and Pilots like your good self. I now have a total appreciation for an RC Pilot and the time it takes to get their pride and joy in the air and stable.
However wish I done this 10 years ago.
Thankyou again for your time and effort mate.
I will follow this to the letter..
Ian, Use long arms on multis, turn your dual rates down at least 25%, and you expo up to about 30%. This makes for a smooth and docile airframe. Great for beginners or someone wanting to take smooth video. Here is some new video from my new scratch built tricopter with 24in arms. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
What can i say Ron ... other than beautiful filming, thanks for all the info to mate, music a good choice too, this gives us something to look forward to in the future. Reminds me how georgeous the British countryside is.( I live in Canada now) keep filming mate. Thx Ian.
Sorry eddfoo, I only just got to logon today, so I had a chance to give you the thumbs up now, thanks for your reply mate, very much appreciated. I will look into the situation now you have steered me in the right direction.
For my first quadcopter i used this flight control and a Turnigy 9x,(i have read the manual and done all the calibrations)i'm having a problem unlocking the board(ive also tried the unlocking patterns on the i86 manual), when i plug the battery in i get the blinking blue light then it turns off (and all i get is a beeping noise). do i have to reprogram my Turnigy 9x or is it something to do with the board ??
By unlocking you mean arming, I think your i86 cannot get your low throttle signals and I believe the beeping beeping also confirm the lack of low throttle signal. Try lowering your throttle trim and do a Tx stick centering (www hobbyking www.link and recalibrate your ESC and I86.
Hi, I am new to RC and the forum, I thought it would be (as a beginner) a good idea to fit the i86 (non lite) board to the bixler 1.1. To help me with stability.
Everything appeared to be working a treat, then after a short time the rudder started to pulsate in one direction only, this only occurred when using the Tx (Turnigy 9x) then the elevator started the same antic, only in the upwards direction, again this was a response only from the TX.
I have successfully done the calibration.
I also have a rig setup with battery/esc/same reciever and 4 servos... No pulsating.
The i86 apart from the pulsating is level and no vibration.
I have eliminated.
1. The battery
2. The ESC
3. The reciever
4. The TX
I can only think its something to do with compatability between the servos in the Bixler and the i86!
It's awful strange though that the rudder and Elevator do this in the one direction and only from the TX command.
I have also varied the pitch roll and yaw, to no avail.
Any suggestions will be gratefully received and faithfully applied.
Thx in advance.
Two things to consider. Try doing a stick centering on your Tx :www hobbyking www.link The next is the bec in your esc. Current loading on the servo is very high in a plane stabilization system, sometimes the bec cannot handle the demand, I would use atleast 3A bec for a 4 servo flight system. It is not so obvious in a rig setup.
Ian, I realise you are new to this board but it is commen courtesy or good manners to thank someone who gave you the right answer a vote. With eddfoo's name you will see how to vote for his answer, simply tick it. He actually went out of his way to help and you must have seen the question "did you want to vote for him. Failure to use the voting system may stop others from answering your questions. Be fair, he helped you so please help him. It costs you nothing. Thank you and well done again eddfoo. Remember, only vote if the question helped. If it didn't tell him and he can offer fuurther help
It's great to have people who are "willing to help regardless" but when an answer is given which obviously answers the question perfectly then it's only fair a credit is given. Many who know the rules simply refuse to credit anyone and many who don't deserve credits get them. As you said it helps a little. I just like to see the right people get the occasional pat on the back.
On micro quad copters you really have to reduce the gyro gain a lot. This is because the props are so near the control board, any slight movement on the quad arms Is deem as a large movement compared to a larger quad.
Legal Henry. estou quase comprando essa placa controladora, só* nã*o fiz ainda porque nã*o tem o acelerô*metro. Estou esperando a KK2 voltar pro estoque. (tem mais de um mê*s esperando).
QUando você* colocar a bateria abaixo com certeza vai melhorar bastante.
Um abç* e bons vô*os.
I found out that if you have your Dual Rates set too low you can't arm the FC board. If I keep them above 60% I can arm and disarm the FC. For two days I thought the FC board was bad and then it came to me that it might be the DR's I adjusted too far.
I have mine set up as a X . I have to move the stick to the bottom right to arm the FC and up to Left forward to disarm.
I am having calibration issues with this board.
CAN I PLEASE GET SOME HELP! I have been on the Help Centre for the past 3 days and being pushed around between live chat and email support. Getting the wrong product support, very frustrating!!
Stick cantering and esc calibration is not producing the right kind of responses on the Flight Controler's LEDs. I bought this radio system http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem .asp?idProduct=24899. Its the TC and RX are bonded, the Flight controller can see the interactions.
The Flight controller is simply Not reacting the way the manual says it should. I spent the past week trying to figure out what is going on and am at a loss.
PS: My transmitter is on Mode 2 (throttle on left). I flipped the modes and the channels, I have tried everything in different combinations. HELP!
Khwezi, Thought I would ask because I ran into a similar situation. Anyway, are you calibrating the i86 or the i86L. There are very different procedures for calibrating these two boards. I tried calibrating my i86L the same as the i86 and it would not work. Not sure if this is your issue or not, but thought I would put it out there. Take care and Happy flying!
Khwezi, search this site for the i86L (PRODUCT ID: 070000010), go to the files tab for that product and download the manual. The procedures are very different than for this board. Also The i86 board is more sensitive and more suited for aerobatic flight. The board on this page is much more stable and great for beginners or for doing aerial video. I think I'll do a video tutorial on setup and the differences of these two boards. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Double checked all connections and settings. It all done correctly. I have zero rudder control and it yaws right. I can trim or hold left enough to slow it but it will just keep yawing. On rudder imput I hear the rpms change and it rises and then it goes nuts. It will either oscilate and flip or go balistic in a hirizontal direction. Pitch and roll seem to work fine.
I'm having big issues with my Quadcopter in X-conf. The biggest problem is that the quad yaws by itself to the left and wants to go backwards when no input is done. I can adjust this with a lot of trimming and I mean a lot! I have done all the necessary calibrations a ton of times in different orders but the front left engine and the right rear are still only the ones spinning when low throttle is given (and they spin in different speeds). I'm using Turnigy Plush 30amp, Turnigy D2836 and the ORX system. Thank you in advance!
Double checked but it was set up properly. The thing is that the ESCs, if you ask me, never gets calibrated. M1 and M3 start together in different pase and then when I'm applying 1/4 of the throttle the rest of the engines kicks in. :/
I suggest following the complete programming guide for the ESC's individually. Use a programming card to ensure that each one is programmed identicaly. And then follow the ESC's throttle callibration directions and do them individually. You may need to trim your throttle down a few clicks too. That might get them starting at the same time but I feel thats a bandaid over cut artery.
I believe Christoffer is referring to the Orange RX receiver. Anyway, you might want to ensure you have the i86 board and not the i86L board. I made the mistake of trying to calibrate it in similar fashion and it didn't work.. very different boards. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Finally I figured it out! Of course I made the error of not calibrating the ESC's the right way. I pulled down the throttle after the short "melody" instead of after the two short beeps (wich is the right way according to CS). The quad is very stable now and I'm happy with it! Thank you for your thoughts anyways!
Take care and be safe!
help im a noob big time when it comes to scratch rc building have an i86 multi-rotor control board,emax gf 2215/25 950kv motors with GWS 7035x3 props, dynam 25A ESC (3A BEC), and an HXT 500 5g/.8kg/.10sec micro servo. i know i need to solder on bullet connectors to the motors and extend the lines from the ESC. how do i connect the ESCs, do i connect them all to the reciever or the control board. please help
Learning from others mistakes in the discussion section. My first quadcopter. This FC board is so simple even I could set it up at age 75. I assembled it and hovered it in one day. I set it up without the props installed. After I had the stick centering, throttle range set and proper motor direction configured I balance and then put the props on the motors. I went out into the garage and got a 10kg brake rotor (disk) and laid it flat on the island (bar) counter top in the kitchen. I tied 4 pieces of parachute cord (500 Lb rated) to the disk at 12, 3, 6 and 9 nine oclock positions and tied down the quadcopter at all 4 legs with 4 inchs of slack in the cord. I fired it up and found out I had to reverse the transmitter aileron, elevator and rudder channels. After I reversed the channels I was able to hover it, while tethered in the kitchen. So far no damage by reversed throttle or other reversed channels. It was way too responsive and I am going to set some dual rates that will hopefully keep me from crashing tomorrow when cut its tethers and take it outside and hover it.
Michael E, Turn the gyro pots of the Pitch and Roll down (if you are flying anything but a Tricopter) just until the oscillations stop and it should be optimal at that point. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
also if you flash your escs with simonk firmware it will do hundreds more calculations per second this will iliminate most all osilating problems. i had one it was uncontrollable then flashed the escs and it flew so nice and stable try it.
Does this board care which set of pins it gets its power(5v) from? I ask because I am using the skywalker quattro esc. It only has "power" wires on the 3rd esc the rest are one wire signal only. I saw the kk 2.o board is powered by the first set of pins.
Erik, As long as you have one ESC providing power to the FC, it will work. The KK2 board on the other hand, has to have power on the 1 motor and if you are running a tricopter, power on the 2 or 3 motor as well. Great little FC boards I use them on lots of stuff. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Erik, I just got a Skywalker Quattro and I'm confused by the S wire numbers. I'm trying to hook it up to this FC board. Is S1 wire connector Motor 1? S2 = M2, S3 = M3, S4 = M4? I'm building a quadcopter .
No, you don't have to flash this board.
To fly different Multicopter you just have to switch the four Dipswitches on the board.
Also you can adjust the three gyros by turning the three knobs with a little screwdriver.
I'm going to build a tricopter with this board.
But i messed up to buy the correct props. I only ordered right hand props.
The image above says that two motors running counterclockwise and one motor is running clockwise.
So i need some more left hand props. Right?
The right hand props lift up when the motor is running clockwise, correct?
Matthias, on the front left, you need a reverse prop, which viewed from the top spins clockwise. front right, a standard prop and spins CCW viewed from the top. On the back, you can use either. With a Standard prop, it should be canted slightly to the right and with a reverse, slightly to the left. With a tricopter, you can actually use all the same props but you have to cant the rear a little more and it causes the tri to lean slightly to one side in a stable hover. My little soap box Tcopter has two reverse props and one standard. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Hi Tommy, I used plush 6A ESCs with the i86 board. I really don't consider hovering in my garage to calibrate my multirotors a maiden flight.. Ha ha! I'm now building a multirotor suspension devise. That way, I don't have to hover in my garage. Just hook it up, Throttle it up and check it out, then calibrate. No running into stuff in my garage anymore.. Ha ha!
I have just gave my opinion on another post so I'll just cut and paste:
The i86 uses mems gyro and therefore more thermally stable and with i86 you do not need to programme it for the flight configuration you want, its a matter of setting the switched. This makes it alot easier to setup. The downside is that the i86 has a disarming problem in the firmware, can be overcome with throttle hold on TX. The answer - i86 better.
1 thumbs up!
I think this control board has very dangerous bug. Just sometimes happend symptom that all rotor was rotate full rpm after disarmed action after landed. So, my 3rd quadcopter has been literally distroyed.. It's really danderously.. Anybody has same symptom?
25 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
Was up in the air in less than 1 hour. super easy to get everything together. Make sure you get the male to male servo leads so you can connect your RX. Credit if you find helpful. Thanks!!
Works great! I like the fact that I don't have to pull out the programmer just to change it from one wing type to another. I just set the dip switches and plugged it in. One tip that _is_ in the manual, but not made obvious is that for fixed wing use the throttle connection is not used between Rx & the board. You just plug the ESC into your Rx like normal and all the servo connections go Rx to board to servos. The board then gets power from the Rx via servo lines. OH, and you need male to male servo extensions for this for between the Rx and board.