USA warehouse now open. Our USA warehouse is now open! Low cost shipping and an ever growing variety make ordering from the US warehouse even better value!
Built with imported N-Channel mosFET's and an ultra fast Atmel MCU & heartbeat make this a high performance ESC with excellent sync capabilities. This ESC has a 5A SBEC for solid reliable servo power. Programmable via an R/C controller.It allows you to program all functions to fit your specific needs, which makes it efficient and user friendly.
Features: Extremely low internal resistance Super smooth and accurate throttle linearity Over heat and over-load protection Auto shut down when signal is lost or radio interference becomes severe for more than 2 seconds Supports high RPM motors Power arming protection (prevents the motor from accidentally running when switched ON) New Advanced programming software
Programming features:
Brake setting (we recommend using brake for only folding props applications)
Battery type(LiPo or NiCd/NiMh) Low voltage cutoff setting Factory default setup restore Timing settings (to enhance ESC efficiency and smoothness) Soft acceleration start ups (for delicate gearbox and helicopter applications)
Governor mode(for helicopter applications) Motor rotation( clockwise\counterclockwise) Switching frequency Low voltage cutoff type (power reduction orirnmediate shutdown)
Factory default settings:
Brake: off Battery type Detect: LiPo with Automatic Cell Low voltage cutoff threshold: Medium (3.0V/65%) Timing setup: Automatic Soft Acceleration Start Up: Medium Governor mode : OFF Frequency : 8kHz Low voltage cutoff type: Reduce power
different servos will have different constraints on their rotation but they all have a neutral position, and that position is always around 1.5 milliseconds (ms). I would have thought that its a safety design that most decent esc had.does it beep at all for battery series and not arm of no beeps at all?
Hi, thanks for reply PPact.
My ESC at first look (hear) behaves like the rest. If I set throttle stick to 0% and then turn on ESC I can hear:
beep_beep_beep_beep_beeeeeeep_beeeeeeep (end beeping and I can run motor at >50%),
Throttle to 50% and turn ON www.link 100% and turn ON www.link have tried program it by programing card but with no results on behavior. I check even governor mode and it works.
For me this ESC works correctly but in range 1.5ms...2ms instead full range 1-2ms.
Do you know how fix this?
Odd indeed. The esc is configuring a 4s battery then arming correctly . If this is correct all I can suggest is returning the settings all back to factory which is illustrated in the instructions and try again. If it doesn't help try the online tech guys. I had an issue with a 600 motor and a simple fix was explained . Then Again it could be faulty. Best to try HK online as it will make the exchange a lot easier if all avenues have been exhausted.
Hope it works out. Cheers
I'm had resolved the problem. Its found out that range of ESC was SET!!! (probably by unwittingly) from 50-100%. I have entered into range programing mode (throttle stick max and wait until you hear two short beeps) and then set range of throttle to 0-100% (by taking throttle to minimum when two short beeps appeared). In manual they said how to do that. You must wait throught few sequention of beeping (in my case it was 3-rd or 4-th seq.) In the end I turn off and turn on my ESC which now works correctly.
No problem at all,it's got a 5a switching bec which will drive six std servos no worries.for example I use one in a Kyosho p40 with a Turnigy 50/55 motor pulling 1400w on a 5000 ,5s battery and six servos including retract servo ...200 odd flights without a glitch
Can anyone help me with the basics in building the 600. I have purchased this esc and 600 typhoon so far. Battery type? Servos? I have a little knowledge but a straighter direction would help. Cheers
It will not burn the motor out,the motor will only draw what its set up requires,so if you have the correct gear ratio and the collective pitch is set correctly you should be fine.
i cant understand why people would want to remove the sink and shrink the controller.. that is the only reason i'm interested.. think what frequent and rapid changes on the chips cooling paste will do. just leave it as is or buy a diff controller smh.
Otimo esc, estou usando no big stick .60 com motor ntm 5050 de 580kv com helice de madeira de motor a combustao, com 6s 5000mah de 20c ele esta rendendo 1360w na 13x8 e rendeu 1940w em uma 15x7. sem problemas com 6s. otimo produto.
It came with a stupid on/off switch, but nothing is mentioned in the manual. Never had a ESC with a switch. Can cut the wires and solder them together? On an off is by connecting the li-po in my world.
Just use the switch! When it's off, the power is totally disengaged to the motor and radio. It's a nice feature, like a jump-plug, but switches a relay so it doesn't need massive wires.
Hi guys, not to create any conflict with anyone in particular,but just to make a point of view.Its true that on -off is as simple as connecting the lipos,but then if this switch is an extra safety feature why disable it and why worry about a malfuntioning switch when the only current it interrupts its receiver and servo current and this has always been intrrupted by a switch.Think on this and make youre on conclusions. Hope this helps.
I've never been into nitro or gas, thats why I never used a switch for the Rx or Esc. When in off, will the amp draw on the pack be absolutely zero? I will use this in a EDF setup where safety is not an direct issue.
HI Jodde73, i haven't tested that yet, but i know that most BEC without a switch do draw amps just connected to batt even without been connected to the motor, and this switch operates on the BEC side of the ESC so it should'nt draw any amps. But its a simple test to find out.Let me know. Hope this helps.
There is no need to think. Use rule of thumb1: less ****=less malfunctioning ****... or if that doesnt apply 2:do not ever EVER use cheap swiches to tx..
I can't get this to function with a fully charged 6s Lipo. It works with 3s,4s,5s, even partly discharged 6s. I have tried all the usual settings timeing frequency etc but the motor only cogs over. The motor is a Turnigy Aerodrive XP 4260. The motor is fine with my Plush 60 or 80 amp, Ibought this for the high BEC current.
As suggested below, did you configure the throttle range? Go to full throttle, then power on (it won't start). It will beep once or twice, which is your cue to go to idle. You might then need to power down to arm the motor.
Yes I have done all the obvious things I am familiar with ESC calibration. I have a programming card so I tried all the settings. Thanks for your input.
Best of luck. These problems can be very frustrating. I once had an Axi that refused to start with a Kontronik ESC. Please comment back here if you solve this.
Hi,
I purchased one of these ESCs several months ago and I have finally got around to fitting it im my heli but has encountered some problems with it.
I'm using a 6S 3000 mah Lipo at approx 95% charge. When I power on I get power to my rx and can operate cyclic, tail servos but I get no power to the motor (typhoon 5000). I also get no beeps from the ESC on power on. I have checked the connections between the motor and the ESC but no luck....
Any ideas? Dead ESC?
Cheers
James
you have to config this esc first!
remove the prop, turn on your transmitter with throttle to full position - now your esc/motor starts beeping in differend cycles!
let it do a full cicle, power off your transmitter again, power on with full throttle again - esc/motor starts beeping again and during the first beeping circle put your throttle to minimum - now it has basic settings!
power off everything - power on ...and then it works!
I have two of these speed controllers. I use them with a Futaba radio system. I had to reverse the throttle servo in my transmitter and make sure the endpoints for the throttle were turned all the way up in either direction. I also had to give my transmitter a few clicks down trim on the throttle trim to get the ESC to arm. After all that it works great.
Hello, I need some answers:
I have a B17 four electric motors for which the speed control esc purchase 4 85aw / 5A SBEC.
They do not come with the manual programming, know where I can get it.
The feed motors with four 5-cell battery 5000 ma, additional servo system and 2,300 radio has independent batteries, but the accelerators to be connected to recepctor also output energy of these batteries, as I can remove it, so that they are independent.
Have you made sure that the throttle sub trim ot travel is set low enough or the esc will think that the throttle stick is not at zero and will not arm?
first of all calibrate your radio! you have to do a complete calibration cycle with the esc!
if it´*s still not working try throttle reverse on your radio *)
i understand your situation have same problem every thing works but no throttel have gust receved programing card right one this time and hope it cures the problem verry frustratingf
Dead but not forgotten.. I am reluctant to give up on this. I have asked question before but no real answer. My ESC will not supply power to the motor and does not chime when switched on. But it still operates the receiver and servos. Anyone with any ideas how I can try and find the fault. It has been a great ESC for over a year now and as nothing looks or smells burnt inside I still hope to maybe fix it?! Any help or suggestions very welcome. Thanks.
Thanks for that - I feel a bit stupid - I have had the ESC so long never thought to start at the beginning again!! Will give it a go and let you know - Cheers, Peter
Just tried resetting throttle but still no go. ESC chimes for cell count when connected to battery but that is all. It will enter programming mode ok but re setting throttle still no go. Thanks for suggestion anyway - thought we had it beat!
So it chimes now! That means power supply to the motor, connection is OK. One more suggestion, set throttle stick to idle position when switching on and make sure there's no safety power cutoff set on TX.
Greetings!
I tried that but no change. Just chimes for cell count and no more. Really appreciate Your suggestions. Hope you are not sitting up all night reading these!! Cheers and again thanks
If your getting the 3 chimes that means your using a 3 cell battery and your output of the ESC is working Try setting throttle to idle and then bring your throttle trim down if that makes sence. To arm the ESC
Hello guys!
I would say that this ESC is very good indeed worth the price paid, but some care is needed with him at the time of programming, for effecting the configuration with the Turnigy programming card in the wrong way will occur burning capacitor 476 10k 034 as this occurred with my photo. This was due to not having card programming manual of instruction. At most I'll try to buy it again and look for information on the use of programing card.
Hello guys!
I would say that this ESC is very good indeed worth the price paid, but some care is needed with him at the time of programming, for effecting the configuration with the Turnigy programming card in the wrong way will occur burning capacitor 476 10k 034 as this occurred with my photo. This was due to not having card programming manual of instruction. At most I'll try to buy it again and look for information on the use of programing card.
Hi, I will try to translate below for you.
1. Certifique-se de que você* pode ter a aeronave realizará* no lugar apenas no caso de o motor começ*a e que quer tomar fora de você*. 2. Verifique se tudo está* desligado. Transmissor desligado e a bateria nã*o está* conectada à* aeronave. 3. Todas definiç*õ*es guarniç*ã*o na posiç*ã*o intermé*dia com excepç*ã*o para o separador esquerdo vertical, que deve estar na posiç*ã*o mais baixa. 4. Já* a borboleta stick até* à* posiç*ã*o mais elevada. 5. Alimentaç*ã*o do transmissor. (Controller) 6. Poder sobre a aeronave. (Ligue a bateria) 7.
I have been using this ESC for past 2 years with perfect results. My set up - 3548/900kv , 12x7 , 3s 2200 25c. Yesterday had to land dead stick. Motor dead and strong smell of overheat. The esc no longer powers a motor and does not chime when switched on. Still powers the Rx and servos.
Is there any way I can check the esc? No smell at all and inside case all still looks like new. Any ideas if i can salvage the ESC? Many thanks - Peter
I have a similar problem but my motor burnt out at the same time no smoke at all only hint was mt low v alarm beeping much to early and the loss of all power to motor.. i ordered a new one before reading this because i blamed the motor i hope this is not a bad batch as HK do not warranty burnouts (my red brick 6cell 120a burnt out at 4cell 60a (as tested b4 flight by hk wattmeter)
Sorry I wasn't too clear - my motor also burnt out - that is where the smell came from. The ESC seemed ok to look at inside and no smell but now does not work. Someone has told me he thinks it is the microprocessor in the esc and it is a write off. Pity to just bin something at that price. Cheers Peter
Thanks for the help - sorry but in their most annoying way HobbyKing have blanked out the **** link - I do not know why they persist in doing this. Would you mind spelling out the letters after **** Thanks very much - Peter
Hi, Excellent ESC. Mounted on NEXMESIS NXT 60 with SK 5045 Brushless and NANOTECH 4500 45/90A Battery. Mesured Speed 98 km/h with 13x8 prop. Futur tests comming with 13x10, 12x10 and 12x12 props.
Reach the limits !
The switch is an arming switch, basically an on/off switch. To disable the bec, just take the red wire off the plug for the receiver off the ESC. then there is no power going to the rx. then you just hook up your ext BEC to the battery and plug into the receiver with your external BEC.
is the switch closed to arm the esc? I want to get rid of the switch and wire, if its closed to arm, i can cut the wire connect the ends together and put a piece of shrink wrap on it
I have an external BEC so i took the red cable out of the receiver wire and left the switch and the switch works as a safty for the motor. I can turn on the electronics then flip the switch let the esc beep the motor then get back flip my transmitter safty switch and can spin up the blades. With it i dont need to worry about the motor when its on the bench!
So how do you ACTUALLY work out how many Amps your electronic gadgetery is drawing from the built in SBEC?
I have a feeling my SBEC can't cope with:
1) my step down conversion from my 6S lipo
2) and electronics running on the other side of the SBEC
My Lipo is a 6S 3000mAH. I recently experienced loss of power/control from a test hover with my heli and was close enough to the crash site to hear that the ESC had reset itself and was beeping it's start-up tune to me. Touching the ESC, this was pretty hot.
Seems to me my SBEC cut out, due to heat?
I'm wondering if my built in SBEC is not able to provide the juice for all the electrics on my heli:
- CSM CL1 CCPM Manager
- CSM SL720 gyro
- 3 x Turnigy TGY930 servos
- 1 x Align DS530 tail servo
- $pektrum AR6200 DSM2
- Alien Command stabilization sensor
the question is simple. How do you work out the amps being drawn by all these devices?
everybody keeps going on about the Amps the SBEC/UBEC can handle. But how do you work out what your servos are drawing? I can't find any formula anywhere... do I need a 3A, 5A, 8A, or 10A ?
plug in ur hk wattmeter as usual then turn evrything on then remove bec from esc then press reset on the hk wattmeter reconect bec and play with the servos the Amps used will show up on the hk display to two decimal places HTH
Today at startup of aermacchi MB339 with a Warhead 3545-1850KV EDF Motor 90mm motor, ZIPPY Flightmax 4000mAh 6S1P 40C battery I had a very bad experience with this ESC. After 5 min* fly the ESC was literally on fire!!! Unfortunetly our RX was on BEC end the plane crash really bad. The ESC was correctly programmed, I'm sure. I don't know what it should be appened :-(. It's really strange bacause this ESC have to be protected by overheating!
One thing is for sure. i'm not buying another of theese as mine broke too. On mine it was a bad smt capacitor(yeah I work with electronics). But as I got it runninig again a fet was broke too so f**k it..
i had a similar issue. think my SBEC cut out due to the ESC becoming too hot. Not good that all these items are housed in one shell. My ESC is mounted on the underbelly of my heli in the open air, would have thought this would have provided enough free flowing air to allow cooling - but didn't.
Running a 6S 22.2V 3000mah lipo probably doesn't help.
my latest one went down 2 mins into a 6 min flight on a wattmeter measured 4cell 60A system after 10 flights on the same setup with same liops etc i am hoping the motor was the cause
read the manual and follow the beeps. drop the throttle stick on the setting you want. power off esc afterwards to save the setting. (only one setting per cycle). it's simple. no programming card needed.
3rd esc from turnigy and again problems, 2 of them you cant programming with programming car (i got just RED LIGHT) and one you can program with card but there is no beep sound when i connect battery, this is toooo much i dont gonna buy anything from turnigy any more GAME OVER
You are very unforunately person. I have been using and buying ESC's from hobby King for 10 years and never had such problem. You must be doing something wrong. PS please note that the card has to be specifically matched for the make it is recommended to. Not all turnigy cards match with all turnigy ESC.
with my 500 class helicopter i am very unlucky
2 esc is buyed very long time ago i thing about 2 years
so this card tz85a ITS NOT COMPATIBLE with old turnigy 85A esc (tested with 2 ESC turnigy 85A )
then i got newer esc and programming card works but there is no sound from motor/esc (also i try other motor and same problem no sound) i tested motors with other esc hyperion and both works very well but with turnigy 85A esc NOT WORKING, but never mind i order align and problem solved :)
Just receive mine to go in my HK-500 GT heli. Very easy to setup using the prog card. What impress me the most? the smoothest RPM curve I've ever seen with an ESC. This one is a real winner! Thank you so much HK!
ZZZ.I received it today after 18 days of waiting(Croatia).It works just fine,tested it on 6s 4000mAh 20c Zippy.On 6s the SBEC gives me 5.63V.Start is even softer(can be programed other ways) than my other brand ESC.I will use it on a Hyperion Yak 54 40e with Turnigy 42-60 500kv and 4.0Ah6s 20c Zippy giveing me 912Watts 43A peak on 14*8prop.I am already flying the Yak with Hyp.80Amp.opto but since i bought a heavier bat.4.0Ah. this way I will lose the extra 60gr.on a batt. for servos. The ESC is 81gr out of the box with out conectors and u dont get them with it.With them(mine) 91gr.The wires are all heavy duty to handle great load 5mm with isolation.The wires for the battery are 14cm long,for motor 6cm and for the receiver is extra long 41cm.And it has a switch for to arm it and is 15cm long.The dimensions actually are 65*34*19mm.The plate we see on pcture is out of aluminium of course,and belov it is fixed with a plastic case with 4 screws which are also visible.The plastic caseing below is semi transparent and has holes(brackets) for cooling.Inside are the condensers and the ESC is acctualy very light by itself,thats why I ordered 1 more. It can be that it is at least half of weight without wires.My plan is to re solder all 5 of the heavy load wires with a smaller ones kill the plastic box and put him in a transparent heat shrink and use it for 25e size models on 3s.Will inform u how that ended.It will be at least 60gr or less after the operation. THANK U HOBBY KING AND C
8 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
moriss
80 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
63 thumbs up!
Ce contrleur fonctionne parfaitement sur mon Angel S SebArt mont en 5 lments. La courbe des gaz est souple, directe et bien proportionnelle. La programmation sans la carte est assez fastidieuse et demande de la patience et l' oreille musicale. Linterrupteur qui fonction pourtant trs bien, est pour moi plus un risque de coupure dalimentation du Bec en vol quun gage de scurit lors de la prparation. Pour cette raison je ne donne que 4 *
4 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Monty Burns
30 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
12 thumbs up!
Nice controller but FAR FAR too heavy for a 85A ESC. Removed the 12 AWG wires for some 16 AWG. Has a silly on/off switch that I wouldnt trust a $5 model to so remove it and solder the jumper on. Has a huge 30cm reciever wire which is overkill. The supplied case is far too heavy and the heatsink overkill. remove it and heatshrink it. Dont get suckered into getting the programming card as it doesnt work with this controller. 3 stars for weight
10 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Pygar
155 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
12 thumbs up!
Ordered this for use in my HK500GT equipped with Turnigy Typhoon 500 engine and Turnigy 933 swash servos. The super softstart is more like a jumpstart, as blades are violently twisted on startup. I had to turn the blades while starting. Beeing used to Align controllers this was a big disappointment.
This is unacceptable for a controller with governor and super soft startup option. Three stars - Fine for planes.
Copyright 2012 Hextronik Limited.
The HobbyKing.com®, OrangeRx, Turnigy, Durafly, nano-tech and other brand logos and names are trademarks of hexTronik Limited.
All rights reserved