The Ki-61 was the only Japanese fighter of WW2 to use a liquid cooled, v-configuration engine, when first engaged by allied airman, it was mistaken for a BF109 by some, others were convinced that the aircraft was of Italian design, hence the allied codename "Tony" was given to this sleek and attractive fighter.
This H-King Ki-61 is a top quality kit, despite its size, the excellent design, coupled with first class materials gives you an ultra-light flying weight without any compromise in durability. The model is also superbly practical, the 2pc wings are plug in and the large canopy is removable, also ideal for electric conversion. Mechanical retracts are included and split flaps have been designed into the sleek wing, the rudder is pull/pull and the comprehensive & included hardware is first rate. There is plenty of scale detail, the covering is expertly applied and the cowl superbly painted, this is a fantastic looking model!
At 70" span, this model has an huge amount of presence, flight performance is every bit as good as the looks of this sleek fighter. The Ki-61 is far more practical than most warbirds and dont let the price fool you, you would be hard pushed to find many warbirds in this catagory to match the quality, finish and performance of the Ki-61, even at twice the price!
Features: 2pc Plug in wing and horizontal stab Ultra light construction Top quality covering and painted parts Scale detail including rivets and exhaust stacks Option of single or twin retract servo operation Large, removable canopy Pull/pull rudder with alloy servo arm included Piano wire control rods Full airfoil profile vertical & horizontal Stabilizer
Requires: Your own 6 Channel TX/RX 0.60 two stroke or 0.90 four stroke glow engine (or equivalent gas or electric equivalent) RX Battery UBEC/Regulator 8 x standard servo + 1 x retract servo (or 2 x standard servo for retract optional) 90mm Spinner
This plane will probably be about 9 pounds FUW electric. If I can't get it to balance for electric power, I will lengthen the nose by a few inches rather than add ballast. So you will need 9 x 150 = 1350 watts to the prop. So it will need a 2,000 watt motor to fly the plane comfortably.
This size motor will not run on 4S power. Most of them require 6S voltage. So you could run 3S batteries in series, or buy 6S batteries. If the motor will run on 8S power, then you can run 4S batteries in series.
Just remember, size the motor by the weight of the plane, and figure out the watts that you need. Don't buy a motor because it says "Power 60".
By the way, I am getting notifications of messages in the discussion about this plane, but I do not see any new messages in this discussion area. Arnauld and Gromuluss, where are the questions or comments that you are making? All I see in this discussion area are old comments.
For any electric plane that uses more than 4 regular (40g) servos, you will need an opto speed controller and a separate backup power for the receiver and servos (else your speed controller can run out of power to run the servos, and this will brown out your receiver, and it can reboot and crash your plane). With an opto speed controller, you will need an 8-15A SBEC (I call this a voltage regulator). I use the Turnigy one from HK.
I am using the 190A HK speed controller for this size plane. It will handle voltage for this size of plane.
The voltage regulator plugs into the battery slot in the receiver.
im not sure.. if what you say is true. but i crashed my plane today.it was flying ok for some time, then suddenly nose dive, almost droped out of the sky like if there was no more air holding it. nothing was burned, but plane is smashed.Im thinking of bying the kit again when i can.but not sure what happened, i think i might have had the cg to close at 90-95mm. but then again, the plane seemed normal before the crash.what have u notice flying this plane that could help me?
Well a 46 type of electric would defiantly be enough to power this plane. Electrics have more torque so more static thrust usually. But if you want to same performance as a 60 glow Then a 60 electric would be best. Then you'll get the speed of a 60 glow but vertical climb of a rocket. So a simple answer is YES 46 is the same POWER but it would fly SLOWER like a truck compared to a sports car.
I use the Prop Drive 50-60 Series 380KV on the .60 size nemesis Ive tried it with 6s 7s and 8s I ues the 120 amp esc but i don't think it needs more then a 100 amp esc That motor has tons of power VERY good quality and it would power this plane perfect. You can see it work just by going to you tube and search Hobby king nemesis over 100 mph radar gun
I'm sure it will fly it OK But that's a big plane. In my books it would be way less power then Id want. If your OK with shallow climb out and the need to keep speed up for any aerobatics then I think it would fly OK. But if you want any real performance out of it, Id go with the one I suggested. They are only about 35 bucks each for that motor.
Hmm well the thing is to get the same big power you'd be drawing huge amps and might burn up the esc or motor Have you given any thought to getting a matching 4s pack and run then in series to make 8? or even a matching discharge and capacity 2s pack to make up 6s I'm certain this plane can fly on 4s np at all But its supposed to be a war bird They are power monsters So it could be a sacrifice Then again you could upgrade to more power in the future if you feel the need.
i could do that. good point. then what motor might u recommend?can i use the rest of my gear normally. got a 70amp esc and standard servos and retracts.. i could buy a 2s 4500. . or use 2 4s that i already got.
the 50-60 Series 380KV will work with a 70 amp esc That motor can take 90 amps But Ive used it with a 14x10 prop and it drew only about 57 amps or so and still gave huge trust and speed If you go to you tube and search " hobby king nemesis over 100 mph radar gun You'll see that plane fly with that motor and 14x10 prop You can experiment with bigger props to see what you can get and stay under the 70 amp mark. also 100 amp esc here is 35 bucks or so for a tunigy delux they work PERFECT then you could save the 70 am on another plane one day Just a thought But you can use the 70 here if you keep the prop smaller so as to keep amps down
hi gromuluss.. tried my motor today with my 4s bat. and a 15x10 apc.. seem to be pretty poweful. its also pulling the fuselage verticaly. im glad as i dont think i will need a 8s bat and another motor... but then again i still need to fly it. it will definitely fly with what i felt. about 3.2 kg of thrust
hi gromuluss, hi crash the kawasaki on its second flight. motor was doing ok. took off allright. i had the cg at about 90mm. when i try to come for landing. retracts down... the plane suddenly nose dive vertically down. was so sudden. end out buried in the mud a foot deep.unfortunally too much damage to be repaired.im so sad after so much work.
This plane needed several modifications during assembly. I mounted the servos amidship instead of in the tail. The CG in the instructions is too far back. Mine is equipped with a DLE 20 gas engine and Spring Air retracts and Robart struts. Weights about 10 lbs. I had to cut openings in the upper front cowl above the spinner and duct air back to the carb area as the rear carb was getting too hot with the pitts muffler back there. Plane flies very good. Slow take offs and landings. Plenty of power with this engine. The flaps are effective and help landing over obstructions, as in corn at the end of the runway.