Excellent W.S. Deans T-connector replacements. Made from high-temp Nylon and gold plated spring connectors, both included in the injection mould at the time when forming the connector. The XT60 ensures a solid high-amp connection, perfect for applications up to and beyond 65A constant.
Hobbyking will begin to include the XT60 on all batteries up to 3,000mAh in capacity in the near future!
XT60, Designed by hexTronik to be more reliable and a better quality connection than Deans T-Connectors. There is no patent on the XT60 connector, we hope this product is sold everywhere in the world and dominates the market, reducing customers dependency on the over-priced Deans T-connector. Say 'No' to the Deans Connector profiteers, and use XT-60's!
IMPORTANT These are not cheap copied XT60 plugs. These original Nylon XT60 plugs can handle over 60A current for extended periods without exceeding 80DegC thanks to their better contact surface area. The plug is also less likely to deform or melt in comparison to copied non-Nylon XT60 plugs.
Genuine Nylon high-temp XT60 connectors. XT = heXTronik. 60 = 60A constant. We're the guys that designed this plug!
Thank you all! I wanted to stay away from additional connectors, just another place of failure. I'm going with the Power Distribution that Hobby King sells:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23 140__Hobby_King_Quadcopter_Power_Distribution_Board. html
I'm glad to hear these are great. Less work involved on my part. Even when I was going to make my own breakout cable I was going to eliminate the HXT connectors.
I'm buying a Nano Tech 5000mAh, 25c, 4S battery. It comes with a HXT connector. I was planning to convert it to XT60 or should I just stick with the HXT connector? Which one offers a more secure connection (ie staying together and not falling apart).
According to eCalc my quad will draw about 68A at max throttle and 20A at hover.
The XT60 its very good conector for me and too much other pilots. Your quad draw about 68A at max throttle . XT60 is designed for 60A continuous drawing but for my opinion it's no problem for XT60 draw 68A for a short time. Connectors are tight and never fall apart , never ... either after crash. Its very good conector , but if you need draw high current as you write in your post, buy original,not cheapest ones.
Either one stays together just fine, HXT will handle more amps but I have drawn much more than 68 through an xt60 in bursts with no problems... Have pulled over 150A bursts through hxt with no problem :)
I replaced my hxt connectors with these and I'll tell you they are as tough as a bearcat to get apart which is a good thing not having to worry vibration would make them come loose. I have them mounted on my 12A & 20A Esc's, so don't worry that your wire may not be thick enough also on my 2200mAh 3s Lipo. They are made of nylon with gold plated connectors so soldering to them is done with ease and they make for a great conductor.
XT60 will handle 40amps no problems, just watch your cables are also rated/capable for 40amps or they will get hot! Always consider that when heat is produced you should also have some venting or the model can become like an oven inside.
I've read the Revolt 30 comes with a T Dean plug. If thats right in order to plug this Nano tech on your boat you need:
1st solution solder T Dean Plug at the battery
2nd solution Buy this adapter
HXT 4mm to T-Connector Battery Adapter www.link (seach the site for Batt Adapter)
If you're not used to soldering get the adapter this way it's going to be easyer to charge.
I think the Imax comes with all the plugs you need
be sure to have a Dean T plug charge lead.
Somehow don't forget to plug the balance lead ;)
You can use XT60 with 80Amp ESC as long as your motor is not drawing more than 60amps continuous. XT60 as their name suggests are rated to 60amps continuous, at 80amps you would expect them to run warm :) 80Amps is getting serious, I would play it safe and use XT90's.
thx to all of you! *Alexander... so if I use a XT60 Battery Harness for 2 Packs in Parallel there souldn´*t be a problem with the XT60s because "current depends not on the battery, but on the motors "!?
hey,I have a short question for you guys.... I am using 4 "NTM Prop Drive 28-26 1000KV/ 315W" (NTM2826S-1000) with "9047SF Combo props" (074000002)and 2 "Zippy Compact 2200mAh 4S 25C Lipo Pack" (ZC.2200.4S.25. Can I use the XT60s or should I use XT90s!?
I hope someone can help me!?
Actually, max current depends not on the battery, but on the motors (especially that two batteries will be able to deliver the doubled current in comparison to hermit's estimation, which is good - batteries would have less voltage sag). Your motors can take 15A each at 9-pitched prop - 60A total. So, XT60 are completely safe - the motors never go to 100% in multirotors (some power is always reserved for stabilization needs).
Don the best thing for you to do is look in the Batteries and Accessories section. Under Battery Adaptors and find the adadaptor that works for you to change your conector to the one on the battery you are planing to buy. The other way is to change all of your conectors over from the one on this battery to the comon setup you are running now by buying the female conectors you need to do the change. here is a link to start you off in your search. product id # 604B-601A
use a solder iron on the wire port with a little bi of solder on the end to speed up the heat transfer, once the wire port is heated up place the wire in the port and add more solder, once the wire has been sufficiently heated the solder should be sucked into the wire. Once the solder has dried cover the ire and port with heat shrink.
Also, the regulated soldering iron is a very good option for that. Unregulated soldering irons tend to overheat (they have 50-100 celsius degrees higher than necessary) and the chance to overheat is much higher. I suggest the good soldering station, can be bought from china for 50$ shipped.
Not a bad attempt - but when inserting the wires into the terminals, additional solder should be flowed into the join to 100% ensure they are fully joined. Particularly with heavier gauge wires that these terminals can take.
Me follow it? No need - I used to solder thousands of terminals for high voltage railroad transformer units in a previous job - large cables sometimes 20mm diameter! Soldering anything else after that nightmare job is childsplay! Lol!
I have found that if you tin the wire first or heat and add solder to the wire and let it cool before you attempt to solder to the connector cup helps, cut off a small piece of solder and lay into solder cup of the connector then heat the cup lightly but apply the tip of your soldering iron to the wire the solder will then flow together without damage to the connector housing.
I always use bullet connectors from the ESC to the motor. There is no question about capacity for bullet connectors, whereas some of the connectors may not be able to handle the amperage. Also brush-less motors require 3 wires and none of the battery terminals that I know of have three wires. Bullet connectors are also easier to route through a firewall than the others are.
From the ESC to the battery is owners choice. But since you will connect and disconnected it often it seems better to use a battery connector so you do not accidentally plug your battery in backwards.
it is best to use bullet conectors for motors due to the ease of removal and instalation when needed vs taking the wholw setup out of the model.
Just use bullets and battery connectors to match current that is going to be used.
the xt-60 plugs have only got 2 terminals, this means that they are only suitable as a battery to esc connector as the esc to motor requires 3 plugs. so use bullets for the esc to motor and xt-60 for the battery to esc.
If you hawe these on your batery you can use them for connecting your batery to esc. And leave the 3 motor wires as bullet connector, Then you can never make the mistake to connect the wrong lead to batery.
If you are going to use theis in a boat I would say no as boats put the most load on a battery/esc system vs car or plane.
Better to use 8mm bullit connector for real high current draw. For a car or midsize plane you should be fine.
As others have said, you need to know the load you will be putting on the battery. 5 amps at 40c is 200A so these will not be suitable. however 40c will flatten your battery in about 90 seconds so probably not what you will be doing.
Work out your expected runtime, and work back from there. for instance a 10 minute runtime would give you 5 amps in 1/6th of an hour so 5 x 6 = 30 so yes it would be suitable - but 5 minutes would be 12 x 5 so therefore 60 amps reaching the upper limit of these. XT90's are available and you may want to opt for these given the supply capability you www.link
Maybe there was none left in the usa warehouse so they sent them from HK so that you would still get your item. Im pretty sure it would cost more to send from HK.
I think you need to chill out.
Also, do you not think that 'real people' work at hobbyking too?
If you prefer your ebay suppliers, purchase from them. I hazard a guess that they charge more for the same thing, hence you ended up shopping at hobbyking for the range and great prices like the rest of us.
You wont get far in this hobby if such a small inconvenience can make you so upset.
Thanks for the info. There is a couple of problems I am having with the JST plug. I found the little barb and pulled it back up then another one is having problems. These are small for me to use due in part to a broken hand from very bad plane crash some time ago. I need a lipo set up that is easy to plug into my ECS and the parallel charging system.How to I find these parts using the ID numbers ? I am a new to rc flying as doc said no more big planes. Thanks for all the help..
Hi Larry, Thanks for the credit. The XT60 connectors will be no easier for you to use if you're not able to grip with strength. Yes, they're bigger, but still hard to grip and require much more force to pull apart than the red JST connectors. The easiest connector for you would probably be an EC3 ... easy to grip and not as much force to pull apart, but they're an absolute biiiitch to solder/assemble. You can buy the leads already made up (PRODUCT ID: EC3-F-WIR, PRODUCT ID: EC3-M-WIR) where you would just have to splice the wires onto your ESC/LiPos. Good luck! Cheers, EA!
Hi nimbc, Good point! I hadn't even considered wandering that for off the reservation, but individual connectors would be a good way to go. The only downside is the risk of having red/black LiPo leads flopping around loose and possibly shorting out, but there should be a way to safely secure them when not in use. Cheers, EA!
Hi thanks for the ideal. My grip is not real bad but with the very small jst plugs its becoming a problem.
Iam kind of afraid of two plugs flopping around and or mistaking plugging in the wrong one.In a plane crash I suffered has made it kinda hard to bend over and struggle with.the little jst plugs.
Also How do I find the prodects that iam being told about. I see product id numbers but new to this and do not know how to go to these peofucts.
thanks.so much for all the lelp getting me back in the air,while keeping my feet on the ground..:
Boat guys use single plugs all the time.
Just take it slow and easy when you plug your stuff in.
The wires moving should not be a problem.
Put endcaps on the battery wires when not in use ( only one lead need be covered.)
Also could use different plug sizes for pos and neg if you wanted.
i cant remember what the pliers are called, but they open when u squeeze them.although not the most popular* if used with ec3 (stock parkzone conector) or ec5 can be unhoooked very easy. hope this helps.
Hi Deven, I think you're referring to circlip pliers, sometimes known as retaining ring pliers. These would work if you drill a small hole in each of the connector halves for the pins on the pliers to fit into. Cheers, EA!
Are these plugs too big to replace jst on my 850mah 2cell lipos. I would like to parallel charge my lipos and can not find a good parallel board that works with jst plugs and the little fitting in the jst plugs are coming out. I am not pulling on wires.
Hi Larry, You can replace your JST connectors with these, but it would be easier to just use JST/XT60 adapter cables (see PRODUCT ID: FXT60-MJST) for parallel charging. As for the loose inserts in your JST connectors, they can usually be repaired or replaced fairly easy. Looking at the connector, you see the 2 exposed metal strips thru the side openings in the connector? Those are the little "barbs" that hold the connector inserts in place. When one becomes loose and slides out of the connector (still on the wire) you need to pry/lift that little strip back up so it locks the insert into the plastic housing. Use a sewing needle or x-acto knife to gently bend the strip and then re-insert it into the plastic housing. It won't come loose again. Cheers, EA!
Thank you, I am thinking about making jumpers or gettimg a few.As for the jst comimg apart would a drop of super glue orCa in the back of the housing and window help to insure the fitings do not come out?I would like to find a plug that is just a little bigger if possable.
Thanks and take care
Thank you for the info. Today I was showing some one how small the jst plug is and I pulled on the male plug to get it out both wires came out just an 1/8 " apart .The little part to pull on is hard for me to grab with out putting pressure on the wires.
I just need a better single plug thats not too big
Hi Larry, Using glue on the JST connectors might work to hold the metal inserts in place. Use either thick CA or epoxy, but make sure you don't get it into the part where the pins from the other JST connector have to slide into. You will still have to be careful about pulling on the wires when you separate the connectors, as the glue won't prevent them from breaking if you apply too much force. Cheers, EA!
Thanks for your help. Iam not knowingly pulling on the wires but it must be when I grip the end of the male plug to pull it out.Its easier to have one plug that's better for me to use. The 850mah lipos have such small wire to try and put much bigger plugs on. I am having some trouble finding the EC3 plugs. must be looking in the wrong place.
thanks again for your help.Take care
Hi Larry, Go to the "Hardware & Accesories" menu above left. Select "Wires & Plugs" from the sub-menu. When the page comes up, select "Battery/ESC/Motor Connectors" from the 3 menu choices. All of the various battery connectors and leads are in there. Cheers, EA!
conclusion: if the battery (5s 5000mah) will work up to 12C (this is 60A allowable current limit for connector HT60) then you can use this connector. if more then 12c - then need use 4mm Bullet-connnector...
your battery will able to draw 5000mAH x 30C = 150.000mA = 150A. Your ESC is correct but the connector is not. XT60 only rated at 60A, not suited your application. Not even the XT90. You better change to XT150 (with 8-10AWG cables)or use 3x batt with XT60 connectors. This is from electrical standard point of view :)
if you want that fine you can do what you like . I choose to chase the weight and draw factor . and If overheating Or bad join .Maby get hot . but this is desinged to actualy gettbetter as it gets Hotter . More swelling of the matal inturnal structure will expend . plug falls apart if this gets hot i agree . i fully agree if you want it you have it .. tho Aircraft we like to keep Minimal weight . as i like . i found 90 to ge fine with 43c 5s / all ok
evan 6s . i go to X large whan its over 6s.
They are definitely the best on the market. I use them for everything now.
Though if you have a high power soldering iron they can still melt, a good tip is to plug the male and female together before soldering. This will help dissipate the heat and hold the pins in place.
Very Good connectors. However you still need to use heat shrink with them and use heavy guage wires. be carefull while soldering as the plastic will start to melt if you keep the iron on for too long. Suggest: use high wattage soldering iron.
15 comments. Reply..
40 thumbs up!
I bought two sets and I should have bought more to change over ALL my Deans plugs. They are very easy to solder since you can push the wire into the connector while heating. I changed over a few batteries with 12 Gauge wire and it fit nicely. They are easier to connect and disconnect than the Deans plug and the pin tension and connection is strong. I flew two planes yesterday (Mini Funtana and a Fun Jet), one pulling up to 45 amps for 5 minutes a
Dimension : Female side : L 20mm x W 15mm x H 8mm Male side : L 20mm x W 15mm x H 8mm Total Length when conneted together : L 33mm
plus no possibility of wrong polarity plus it's a very tight fit when connect together plus the design for the heat shrink tube placement is very good, making it a perfect seal for the wire (so there's no exposed wire/connector like the one that can happen with deans conncetor) plus/- Possibility of re-useable (disassembly), ONLY IF the plastic cover doens't metl during assembly/disassembly. But it's not as cheap compare with other type of connector - Be careful not to give the connector too much heat when soldering, the plastic cover can still melt - Still need some heat shrink tube - It's size is a little larger than Deans/T-connector
* Tips for soldering is same as soldering the deans conncetor, connet the female-male side together for easy assembly
11 comments. Reply..
33 thumbs up!
This is my favorite product from HK. I switched my entire hanger to XT60 because they are so much easier to solder and plug and unplug. Best thing since LiPo batteries. Well worth the time and money.
4 comments. Reply..
30 thumbs up!
Bought a few of these to test and am more than impressed, they're very very easy to work with... Much easier compared to deans plugs and much quicker. They are well thought out as there is space for heatshrink to slide down well over the contacts and they go together well enough to hold on to a battery in an emergency! There is a nice grippy area to pull em apart as well.