Main Functions: Safety mode: The motor wont start no matter what the position of the control stick is when switch on the RC unit. Brake setting: On/Off (factory default is off) Low current protection: Ignore/Reduce power/Shut off Temperature protection: Reduce power when temperature reaches 120C PWM frequency: 8Khz/16Khz Three point battery type and low voltage selection. Software reversion of motor turning selection.
This ESC is also sold as: HobbyKing BlueSeries. Search for BlueSeries in our search field on the left for the same product.
Yes, with a bigger prop the current will increase. Because a bigger prop will move more air, the motor will have to work harder and therefore require more current. For a 7x4 prop on this motor the current should increase to about
25A. This is still quite okay for your ESC.
I have read that the maximum current for the turnigy 2200kv D2826-6 motor is much less than 34A, so I think its possible that the 7x4 prop might be on the limit.
My suggestion is to get both 6x3 and 7x4 props, and try both out (starting with the 6x3).
I've used this ESC in two of my hexacopters using 5S batteries.
I had many problems as the ESC was shutting down intermittently even the power consumption is max 6A per motor. After several crashes I discovered the ESC was always failing when I had used 5S batteries instead of 4S. Today during a test 2 of the ESC burned after few seconds. The ESC was powered with 22V.
I found a burned TC4421 MOSFET on the ESC.
This are the specifications of the TC4421:
The TC4421/TC4422 are high-current buffer/drivers
capable of driving large MOSFETs and IGBTs.
These devices are essentially immune to any form of
upset, except direct overvoltage or over-dissipation.
Wide Input Supply Voltage Operating Range: 4.5V to 18V
SO THIS ESC IS NEVER CAPABLE OF 5S and IT WILL IMMEDIATE BURN WITH 6S BATTERIES!!!
Is Li-Po battery a factory default setting? And does the controller recognizes the number of cells or are there any manual things which have to be done? I am wondering because I am planning to use 2S and 3S battery packs.
If your using an RX battery to power the electronics of your model then YES, you must remove the red wire from the plug (I prefer mine taken out and protected with and shrink tube). This ESC has a build in BEC and connecting one to a battery might be dangerous.
I have a controller for a year, everything works very well. But I can `t make a soft launch at startup is a very strong jolt, I tried all the options on the map to programming and nothing helps. How do I fix this situation or have to completely change the firmware in the controller???
Unfortunately, I nenashel simple solution to this problems.
I am a professional in the electronics, and I can write a program on the PIC - the controllers. A controller is used in the ATmega 8 - Unfortunately, I know its bad.
For me the only way out, to explore ATmega 8 and create your own program.
Too bad, like you said to knew processors programming I had been with some hope that this problem of the hard startup could ever be resolved with firmware update and this esc would be great.
Thanks for your response and if you ever know anything that is to overcome this problem, please tell us.
Looks like something wrong with my one - after throttle calibration this ESC gives less power, then FunFighter's bf-109 stock ESC - with the same motor, prop and battery - 210,8W(14,35V 14,58A) against 256W(13,76V 18,42A). With this ESC motor gives a shudder during start-up, and also, if it stays in low throttle more than ~1,5 sec. I tried to set different timings, acceleration start-ups and switching frequencies, but didn’*t notice any changes, however, it’*s possible to change brake, rotation direction and restore factory defaults.
I think that it has no ability to be programmed with programming card. It's settings are changed when you hear specific beeping from motor, and by moving throttle stick to null position. These beeping sounds are strangely described in users manual. I have both 30A and 40A versions of this controller, and it works excelent. For me there is no problem, that it cannot be set via programming card, as i setup ESC once only.
I can not enter the programming mode properly. I've tried all the possible connection of the wires to the motor, all reversals of the channel on the radio, as I devised a new model helicopter mixes in with the "zero" for the first attempt to set the throttle range. But the engine only or beeps once or it starts to beep all the settings, but can not save. Any suggestions?
Problem solved! I did not have to talk to anyone ... sat down, picked up the radio, I got a heli profile "reset", and ready, get set normally. The whole problem is the "range" of the throttle and if not zero, the ESC does not recognize the stick at 100% or 0%. Hence it's impossible to program.
used this esc with a TR 35-30A 1700kv Brushless Outrunner. done a quick test and the wattage and amp output all looked good when i went to use it, it did not want to work . there are no tunes. i have power to the servos but the motor i get nothing. tried another esc it worked so i know motor is good. What would cause the esc to go dead????
sbec means switching bec and is stable up to 6s while a normal bec has linear voltage regulators and should normally be used with 3s and sometimes max. 4s
so the sbec is the better one with less heat losses.
Switching BEC is a more stable BEC that doesn't heat up much and so keeps the ESC cool. The current it can handle is higher too. As mentioned, the SBEC can handle up to 6s or more in most applications. The heat a normal BEC would produce when being put on 6s would be too much, so the BEC has to be unused in that case. With the SEBC you can use it on all batterys, the ESC can handle.
fsdh guys 6 NO two to battery, three to motor, three to receiver (one strip a group of 3 wires) so 3 2 3=8 Also his sister ESC PRODUCTID :MY30ABEC Mystery 30A BEC Brushless Speed Controller (Blue Series) Shows the receiver wire JUST I hope this helps. (MM Hide and seek)
Hope someone can Help me! I both this ecs and want to use it in a Outrigger with The HK-300 Ground Radio. And here is my Problem This ECS won't Accept the Neutral Position of this Radio. How can i set there the neutral Position??? Hope someone can Help me! (if i pull the trigger to full reverse Position the esc start to beep and accept this as the neutral position - but i need the neutral Trigger Position as Neutral Position!!)
The esc was designed for use in air systems where 0pcnt throttle is at the lowest possible input (in your case the full reverse position). the esc is not capable of forward and reverse operation. In order for you use this esc in your application you would need to be able to make your radio provide 0pcnt(full reverse) throttle at the neutral position and 100pcnt when puling the trigger (full forward throttle).
I am getting terrible radio range when I use this esc, I tried adding a capacitor and a ferrite ring but didn't help. I get the same short range with 35mhz and 2.4ghz receivers, range test is not more than 10 paces with either system. Tested both setups without the esc so I know it's causing it. Maybe mines faulty? Anyone else having this issue?
I am using this ESC with a RadioLink 2.4ghz radio and don't have this problem. I am flying up to about 100 feet away with no problem at all. I did a field test of about 250 feet, again no problem. Mine is SBEC (switching BEC) I don't know if that makes a difference. I know Mystery makes a regular BEC of this ESC.
Thanks guys. I actually bought 2 of these and have just tested the second one with the same exact same results. Strange that I seem to be the only person with this problem. I've now tried both esc's with two 35Mhz rx and two 2.4Ghz rx in two planes all with capacitor and ferrite ring, I give up now.
I have experienced a strange problem with mine, it seems that the BEC causes interference with my Digital servo's. I haven't flown with it because of this and this could easily cause the problem you describe. I changed to another brand of esc and I never had any of the issues.
Try to wrap the ESC with an aluminium foil sheet for testing and see if the situation is better. If not, this means that the interference is flowing in the cables. Move the ferite ring as close as possible to the ESC and try again. Make sure servo cables and RX antenna are away from the ESC too... Don't give up! Those are great controllers.
make sure your esc and motor are as far away as possible from your receiver, also try using an rx pack on the system and do a range test, it is possible that the bec in the esc cannot provide enough current to properly power the receiver and other electronics therefor your problem with short radio range.
hope that helps. Happy Flying! XD
HobbyKing Programming card for BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller is the one which fits to this esc. I've tried it myself, and it really saves you the hassle of the transmitter programming.
Hope it helps with some reallife confirmation :)
It all depends on what you are running as far as motor goes. I use this in my 450 heli with a 4000kv 300 watt motor 40 c batteries and it does not even get warm. Do you have proper circulation. I would mount it on the outside and see how it does.
These are a good ESC. Have accidentally overheated mine static at over 50Amps (entered wrong program on transmitter) the ESC overheat failsafe cut the power and once cooled was back to normal. I run mine in a modded Picojet at bursts of 50Amps with real good cooling,(mounted in top of wing)-no probs. Check your current draw if poss (borrow a bigger ESC to check perhaps)before buying bigger.
I purchased this controler two months ago & mounted in my Alfajet 70mmEDF in tunel for good ventilation but unfortunately motor was overpowered & finaly burned(blocked rotor)after that ESC was also dead.Finaly opened ESC bord and surprise !! three roads was broken like a fuses,so three pieces of corect diam.copper wire, soldered gently(rebuilding fuses) and under power, then "tititatai" hurra! working.So for me it's very clever design and high quality board.
It all depends on the existing current draw. 1- If the current draw is ~30A then no need to upgrade. With a hobby knife blade, cut the shrink over the aluminium heat sink and place the ESC as near as possible to an air inlet. 2- If the current draw is 30A then go ahead and get yourself a 60A Plush or Sentry. Those are simply the best!
Yes, i just tested it. Works great, no more stick programming and such. It's a very good ESC, just remember that it throws out 6V and not 4.8-5.0V like other SBEC's, you might fry your servos if they can't use 6V :)
this is very unlikely, since even a 4 cell nimh with a nominal voltage of 4,8v has a fully charged voltage of 5,4v for some time. if you ever get a servo fried at 5,5v or lower - as i already did - it is most likely due to excessive vibration.
In general, when a servo is meant to operate at 5.0v, it does not mean it won't work on 5.5v. It will work but shorten the life of its tiny motor. Also note, the the Mystery 40A builtin SBEC outputs 5.5v only when idle. It will easily drop below 5.5v on load. So go ahead and don't worry about it... it'll work fine!
I'm looking for a lightweight ESC that will handle about 53A for 15 seconds in a free flight model using a 4000kv motor on 4S. I know that this would be pushing this ESC but will it work? If not any suggestions? I'd sure like soming under the usual 60gms for a full 60A control.
I would suggest that you go with a larger esc. I run my mystery 40 with a 3s 2200 on a TR 35-36c with 10x10 prop and I am pulling close to 50 amps at WOT and the esc and batts get very warm. With 4s you would prob cook it with that motor depending how you prop it. Although this is prob the best 40 amp esc you can buy anywhere, outperforms my e-flite 40 amp esc no sweat.
John, this is great quality ESC but very cheap. It can be programmed with HobbyWing Program card as well. like the program card for the Turnighy ESCs. It's 60 grams in weight (not 33gms). They can also be used for EDFs, high RPMs: www.link
It doesn't really soft start very well. It's a known issue, even in the "softest" start mode it still s***ls rapidly, you will just have to start is carefully in Normal mode and switch to ST1 or ST2 once you are at mid throttle. That's what I have to do, and I have the programming card.
Made some tests for internal SBEC under load: 0A - 5.6V 2A -5.51V 2.5A - 5.48V 2.7A - 5.2V 3A - 5.1V 4A - 4.7V It's pretty good up to 2.5A continous, only slightly warm and voltage drop ~0.1V. For more than 2.5A it start to give up and dropout starts to increase dramatically up to ~0,9V at 4A. And it's get hot at 4A after a minute or so. As for noise, it's about 50mV 250kHz in the output, but 2000mF capasitor can take it down to 1mV.
2009-08-12 Paired this ESC with the Turnigy E-500 6 turn heli motor. Full throttle pulled 42 amps, measured 456 watts on the watts-up meter. Esc is 40A60A burst, can barely feel any heat out of the esc, even after full throttle run for a few seconds. Full 10 minute's of hovering, (still learning the heli thing), with Rhing 2250-3 cell pack. Easy to program through the throttle. Does not work with the Turnigy program card, but isn't a bit deal to program thru the beeps and throttle. Wires are a bit short on both ends, but worked out ok on the HK-450 heli. Great Value for the buck!
I use thus ESC in my HK 450. It works very well! It is excelent ESC! Strong SBEC is excelent for 2,4GHz RX and 4 digi servos and gyro. This ESC is the same asi POWER HD ESC so you can use their programm card :-) Programming this ESC with card is very simple and very quick. I will by another ESC for my friend to his HK 450. May be a will by 30A ESC. EXCELENT - Thanks HC!
best esc I've ever bought the govenor mode works great for 450 heli's Govenors elimenate the need for complicated trotle curve setup" Im useing it with a 2836-3700 turnigy motor and 2200 3 cell packs its the best power package iv,e found so far
Programing it is pretty easy!"it comes with directoins save them" you can only program one feature at a time so it takes a cupple minutes. when your looking at the programing instructoin you just have to remember that every mark on it is a differnt beep. there all in groups of four it dose each beep set 4 times and theres 22 sets of them for evrything" optoin 4 is to restore to factory defaut so if you mess up the settings to bad you can always reset it" I programed mine in ten minute the first time it was easy.
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all things are good, except one My ESC can not go into programimg mode. when I connect Battery with full throttle, The ESC says nothing. only possible setup is throttle range before every flight.