I never heat them, I do as Crono1124 said, and he is very correct about to much solder flowing out the little hole and filling in the portion that the plastic will latch into, then they are almost impossible to drive into place then.
I have never needed to use heat to insert the protector. You feed the wire through the ribbed end and then solder the connectors on by the smooth end. Pull the wire back through the connector till its almost in place and then use an alen wrench to apply a bit of pressure to each bullet. They will snap into place. just ensure when you solder your wires that there is not any excessive solder leaks out the hold as that will inhibit the insertion process.
i have been having trouble with my plugs melting at the connection between the batt & esc im running a 3s 5mah batt 60amp esc & a 3660 brushless inrunner, will these plugs help my situation??? any income welcome
I would rather use XT60 rated for 60amp, easy to solder and very solid. I use them on all my batteries up to 4 cell. On my 6 cell batteries I use bullet because XT60 plugs can`t handle the high amps. Good luck:)
They're great, but no fool proof, a friend connect one battery to the other, when charging battery packs in a hurry, he disconected the first pack from the charger, and instead of connecting the second pack to the charger, he connected it to the first... they're safe, but not fool proof
I had six batteries in a row and got distracted while checking their voltages when I did the same thing. The one drawback with these is there is no male connector or female, they are both. I've also had problems feeding 10awg through these as is required during assembly.
I've had great success with that much power, but ultimately the Deans connectors are better. This fit together easier and more securely in my opinion. Also with the deans connector you can easily examine your solder connections once in awhile to make sure they are secure. With these ones you are asking about, you can't see the connections inside once they are fitted on. I've had one come loose before.
Deans on a 12S? Are you crazy? Deans are rated at around 40A so if your pulling more than that you definitely want a bullet style connector. Yours came apart because of a "cold solder", you didn't get it hot enough or moved it before it cooled. A good solder joint will be strong and there will be less resistance. Having the entire end of the wire in contact with the connector is better than just one side of the wire with a glob of solder on top.
it does require a small amount of force to get the insulator to latch, especially if you don't have a press. I found that it is easier the push the larger side in from the back and thread the wire through the smaller side and press it in from the front.
A good way to get the red cover over the connectors once soldered is to take two matching bullet connectors and plug them in to the ones you soldered, then you can put on a flat surface and push the cover down until they click...
Also - to make it easier to fit the cover - first thread the cover over wires - solder bullets on - *make sure you do not get any solder on the outside of the bullet*! As this will "catch" on the cover and make it much harder. Also, as a last ditch - try heating the cover plastic with a torch to the point you can almost not hold it by hand. This makes the plastic ductile and it will come on easier.
Do the isolator covers on the Turnigy battery have male or female connectors and do you have bare 4mm gold connectors on the BEC I have only used EC3 connections before which have isolation covers both male and female
the larger capacity turnigy connectors use both male and female connectors, the insulator also has male and female ports. As for the esc if you are not using the insulator you should always cover the female connector with shrink rap to prevent short circuits.
It depends on what exactly you mean.
Every connector consists of two bullets - male and female one. There are 10 such connectors. They are interchangeable - you can connect each connector to each one - to battery, to ESC etc. Both bullets are isolated, so there's no need to have only females on battery side and only males on ESC side.
How to install a red case on the connectors with a thick wire, such as 10AWG? Insulation thickness does not allow to pass the 10AWG wire through the case. I can remove insulation on long enough for soldering connectors passing it through the red case, but then have to use heatshrink tube to the back of the connector, because no bare wires appropriate. However, on my TURNIGY LiPo just such connectors and 10AWG wire is connected without any heatshrink tube!...
I suggest that you get drill bit or a reamer the same diameter of the 10AWG wire and then enlarge the hole. This is what i did with this HXT 4mm Connectors. Problem solve without using heat shrink tubes.
* Problem solved *
The 10AWG with difficulty, but you can pull through red case, but only from the connector side. Connector can be soldered to the wire before, but the other side of the wire must be free. Pull a wire with a connector completely through the red case, strong push to the tip of the connector to fix it in the red case.
When soldering wire to the connector, fix connector at an angle of about 45 degrees with a solder cave at top and the side hole also must be turned upside. Do not use too much of a soldering flux, as its residues can increase the electrical resistance of the solder joints.
Just solder the wire onto the connectors and then push the connectors from **wire-side** into the plastic-cases, and when you have a sharp look to the connectors you see that they are made for putting it in this way. I do so every time and works fine. So my isulation is going down to plastic case. No need to have shrink tube on it.
used an entire pack with no problem! pushed wires through red protector (taking note to pos/neg) set gold tip upside down inside an adj crescent wrench, set snug, melted good amount of solder on wire, then inside connection 'tub' on connector then put wire to tub with iron on it, it pops in when solder melts, then give a minute to cool, then do other one, then carefully slide protector on and 'snap' tips into red protector with a little force. like i said, used many packs, no problem. plz credit
unless you have upgraded to the brushless on your mirco T you will only need two wires on the motor. These 4mm are way to big. You need small like the jst or if you want a bullet conector look for 2mm. the wires on the micro T are like 22ga.
At first I was reluctant to use these connectors and were converting everything to deans type, then I bought some to make adaptors, but since then I have fallen in love with these connectors, I will keep these for anything over small 3s batteries.
Thanks Hynx. there are 2 different sizes of protector housing.
Do these have the 5mm and 6.4mm openings?
( pretty sure they do, thats the size for the 34mm ones on another website. I got the 2 confused at one point and have a bunch of the smaller opening ones that dont work )
you dont need to use heat shrink with these connectors. you slide the wire through the plastic covering, solder on the connectors to the wire, and then the plastic cover snaps over the connectors to protect from shorting.
I agree with the above. Once they are fitted they can only be removed by cutting. I find them difficult to use without solder coming out of the little hole and making the red case difficult to fit. Not my favourite method of connection.
the red casing keeps you from shorting out your lipo battery. Shorting the battery may cause your battery to burst into flames.
If you need to remove and re-install the connector, the gold pins can be pushed out the front end of the connector using a nail or a screw driver from the back (wire side) of the connector
are these both male female// and how easy are they to soider and pull the conectors apart thinking of changing over for my larger planes right now I'm usint yellow connectors hope someone can help jasom
hello, you can change the original yellow connectors and replace them with this, but keep in mind that these are bigger and then ask for a more spazioo turn them into your plane, if the model is large enough ok ...
I bought them and there are male & female. in my opinion it´s a bit difficult to soider, i recommend you don't change the yellow for these because the red ones are much more bigger. I hope i help you. Have a nice day
In my opinion they are more user friendly than the yellow as far as soldering and ease of pluging and unpluging but like everyone else said they are bigger. Soldering I think is easer than the yellow ones by far. However I still choose to use the yellow ones because I beleive they are stronger all around. these just seem a bit "cheaper" to me.......Im sure they would work fine though.......just my opinion. hope that helps Brett
There are moth F/M, you can solder them quite easy but you need at least 70W soldering iron. Once the metal connector is in the housing, you can't tear it apart - you destroy plastic. As a connection, they hold together good, to pull them apart is not that hard - allmost like yellow ones.
the trick is to firstly pass the wire through the cover before soldering,after that just pull back the wire to let connector sit in the inside groove of the cover.
Never try to push the soldered connector into the red covering..it wont go through
solder them as normal ...if the solder leaks out the weep hole take a small file or an emery board and file the excess off easy peasy...be sure to feed the red connector onto the wires first paying close attention to proper polarity...I found that the connectors can be pushed back into the plastic as they're supposed to be if all the solder flashing is filed or emeried off use channel locks...squeeze gently.
I alwYs had problems holding them to solder finally i just took a piece of wood and drilled some holes in it to hold them firmly im place. I drilled the excact size and deep enough so only about 1/8 inch stuck out. Now its so easy and no solder leaks out the small holes because of the perfect fit.
The best bet for soldering these connectors is with a Bernz-O-Matic micro torch. First, tin the wire. Second, heat the connector and fill the cup with solder. Third, slide the housing over the wire. Fourth, heat the connector until the pool of solder melts then simply push the tinned wire in. I use solid core solder and flux and fine wire can be bent into a "U" shape.
File or Dremel off any excess* then, put the wires in a vise but do not tighten, only touch the insulation with the vise jaws**with the red protectors above the jaws. Use a male spare, put it in the female and vice versa. Gently tap with a hammer until they both seat. Remove the spare connectors. Perfectly seated.
if you buy this pack, because they are all the same (just like how the pic shows is how they come)with the battery, i believe the positive (red) ha the big end with the female bullet, and the negitive has the male bullet. you esc will be flipped, you would solder the male bullet to the positive and the female to the negitive. just make sure you put the red case over the wires first because you push the bullets into the case (the case prevents the wires from touching each other like shink tubbing does)
Dear Sir: Yes the 4mm Gold Connector w/Protector is the same size as the battery you have chosen. This is the connector that I prefer for this size battery. I use them all the time. It is a solid connector, however, you must be very careful! I.E. if you are a noobie, to connect the correct wire to the correct side of the connector. Most conncetors have an ESC conncector and a Battery connector that don't look the same. This connector can be hooked up wrong and will ruin your battery, cause an
Yes, the battery comes with this connector. You will need a set of HXT 4mm Gold connectors to your ESC. Study the discussions and reviews for good examples of how to solder in best way! Be careful to put the right cable in the right connector and case!! very careful!
I think you should use a clamp,then it is so easy and clamp the connectors to the vise, firstly,you could pass the protector and solder the cable end which is to you want to solder,secondly, you can use cold soldering, then combine to each soldering part to solder wait a few second,Finally passing the protector(red part) toward to the connector it is done, good luck
First of all put red connector case on the wires you will use, otherwise you will not be able to do it after soldering. Fix one metal connector in vertical position, warm it up with soldering iron and fill approximately half of it with tin. Continue warming up with soldering iron put wire end into melted tin. Move it up and down 2-3 times so tin will cover wire end completely and make good connection with connector. Remove soldering iron and let connector with wire inside to cool down approx 30s
important thing is to put the wire through the plastic BEFORE you solder the metal tab to the wire, then you pull the soldered tab back into the plastic wich then secures it. As for the soldering, have the metall tab upright, you can use somepliers with a rubber band on the grip for this, fill it with tin, keep it hot and then carefully press the wire into the hot tin.
#1, and most importantly**don't, DON'T use a soldering iron.
to use my technique you'll need the following:
helping hands vise (google it if you don't know what it is)
a butane micro torch
solder (i prefer 60/40..but, realize that may not be legal everywhere)
with the above, the technique is super easy:
1. strip and tin the wire as usual
2. put one of the gold connectors in the helping hands vise with the end to be soldered facing upward (we're going to fill the cup with solder)
3. use the
I use helper-hands(heavy base with two roach clips, each on the end of an arm). I place the conectors lengthwise in the alagater clip to help disperse heat.I put them at a angle higher then 90 with the little hole pointed up. Then prep the wire by cutting the shield and measuring bare wire length in connector. tin the wire with a little bit of solder. put the plastic shield on the wire.
then i place the iron tip in the little hole and heat the conector. i fill the cup PART WAY with solder as it
The easiest way I found to solder this was
Old plate to rest soldering iron and pliers in
Pair of pliers and velcro strap or rubber band
Put bullet in pliers, vertical and place rubber band or strap around the end of the pliers handles and tighten so bullet will not fall out
Grab wire and put the appropriate Protector on
Sit pliers on plate and tin both wire and bullet, not too much in bullet as you will over flow the solder and make a messy connector
Grab wire and place on top of bullet while
Just a quick remind: the male "gold pin" on the little tube of the red connector. And the female on the big one. That's for all the plugs. Then you just need to wire the black wire of the battery to the black of the ESC (or wathever). So for that, you need to "cross" them: black battery, on male, black ESC on female.
In theory good connectors : esay to solder, plug in and out and pretty standard. But as said earlier you have to invert the connector of the esc to the battery one to make them fit. So no sign convention like on dean where the horizontal lead is always (-). Here you might not want to use a friend's battery in case he soldered his the opposite way. Even be careful when soldering a new battery to pair it with the esc and charging leads before soldering. Personnaly I stick with deans (T plugs) and
there are two sizes to the red "tubes" on the connector. One side is slightly smaller than the other. The small side fro one connector slides inside the larger side of the mating connector. Use the female or socket gold connector in the larger tube and the male or pin connector in the smaller tube. When slid together, the smaller tube goes inside the larger one, but to the outside the gold socket and he pin slides inside the socket.
When i do it, i take a loose male and female connector...push them into the ones in the housing. then i go ahead and push the plugs sticking out against the edge of my table. Use a tool to pull out the loose ones. and there you go. hope it helps
Be sure that solder did not get in to the outer side , there is a little rim that if the solder gets there you will not be able to put them in., then add the opposite insert in to the end the opposite gender so it stics out, then push against the table. still you need t apply about 5 kilograms of preasure.
Put the plastic housing on the cable. Next, solder the cable to the actual gold connector. Now slide the plastic housing forward until it snaps on the connector. This last step may be a bit difficult. First trick: Put the connector in the housing as far as it will go. Put the connector vertical with the gold end facing the table. Now tap the back end of the housing with something like a hammer. Or you can do it the other way around. Housing on the table, and tap the connector....
Yo siempre uso estos conectores y lo mas sencillo es poner primero la carcasa del conector en el cable, luego soldar el conectar y meterlo para adentro, hay que empujar un poco, yo hago presion contra una madera y asi no se daña ni el conector ni la carcasa.
These plugs are the BEST for guys with large hands like me* I find the other small connectors difficult to manage. The corrct way to mount these is to (1)Insert the wires through the bottom of the plug with at least two inches pass the top. (2) Cut about 3mm off the end of the wire to be soldered (3) Solder the wire into the base of the HTX connector male or female (4) Pull the wire back into the plastic HTX plug. (5) Use a Hex driver and gently tap the connectors into the plastic HTX plug unti
i do it differant i solder my wire on, then from the top put wire in push it out the back take a good pair of pliers grab the end of wire hold the connecter in your hand and pull hard you will hear it snap in place thats it do the same for other side then cut off excess wire and solder on your other connectors!
The best way I found, is to put the plastic shell over the wire before you solder. Then you can go ahead and strip slightly more insulation off than you need to fully insert in the connector. This will allow for room to pump solder into the connector. You can apply the heat mostly on the wire, and partially on the connector shell, and try to mostly fill the connector with solder. There is a little hole you should try to keep up while soldering, and you can even use it to help feed solder in. Onc
Honestly.. Your should ditch those connectors like the plague and swith to XT60 or something. I used the run the banana style connections like that and I had real issues with them with ecss over 40amps. Plus they are so hard to pull apart that I found it very easy to damage my models yanking on the things. Now I use XT60 on my bigger models and deans on my smaller models because because they are the easiest to pull apart. Also both of these make it impossible to accedently touch in reverse and c
I use the golden index cards(forms) hxt 4mm, very difficult has to remove(kidnap), it is necessary to cut the plastic of protection on the negative battery(drum kit) and on him(it) variator. More problem to disconnect here is a simpler video. Http: // www.youtube.com / watch? V=lYh4fdpuKKo
They are in fact better than Deans, the connections remain shielded on both sides, source and device. They basically are standard 4mm bullet connections so better than deans, easier to grab to connect/disconnect and can handle 90A.
In fact they are better than every other plugs for one reason : there is no pair. All the plugs are the same. No more male or female this one is male on a side an female on the other. So no more plugs unused in a box. When you use dean you need a male for the charger an other for ESC and no more but if you have 4 lipos you need 4 female ...
Before using this one I was using T Dean and even if it's a little bit more difficult to sold and built, it is mush easier to plug and unplug.
with regards to Ebiker concerns about them coming loose, their is a age old trick of puttting some electrical tape round the joined connectors or why not use Velcro ??? I have yet to have any come loose in my long time of using them..
You can buy them but not from hobby king, they are easy to make, just use some esc battery wire and soldier a male and female of each end, plug one positive and negative from each battery into esc and the other two into the wire. I've made my own and makes my boat stand on water xD
56 thumbs up!
These are good connectors. I use them with the following set up:
EFlite power 46 BL motor Castle Creations Phoenix 80 ESC APC-E 13x8 prop
The tested current was:
28A @ 14V 38A @ 16.6V
The connectors did not increase in temperature. Plus, connecting in reverse polarity is impossible. Notice that one round cavity is bigger than the other. I put the male pin in the smaller cavity and the female one in the larger cavity. They fit snugly too
Great connectors! Use it for my Savage Flux and found one interesting thing. Flux has Y-like ESC-battery connectors for two batteries, but if you want to user one pack, you can connect one connector from one side and one connector from oher side! You can't do it with XT60 for example. I'm very satisfied!
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19 thumbs up!
top notch these , easy to snap together and pull apart . much better than deans in my opinion.
hopefully at this price they will push the deans out of the market or stop them charging far to much for an average plug
I couldn't get a 10AWG to fit in the casing without shaving off a bit of the insulation, but 12AWG should be ok. It's much easier to solder than the Deans connector, easier to connect and it can take more Amps.
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12 thumbs up!
I found the best way to insert the connectors into the housing is to take an unused opposite gender connector, push it into your newly soldered connector so you have some extra length then, using your bench vise GENTLY press the connector in until it clicks (you'll know when it is seated properly.) No need to yank on the wire or smack it with a hammer!