Is there something you can do to get this alarm to go full alert at 9v? Because if it beeps at 3v per cell, there's still plenty of time for me to plop down my quadcopter before it drops down to 2.8v. Currently it starts its full on whining at 3.4v already, which is way too soon for multicopters. My lipo meter keeps saying the packs are still half full when I land, and they are 45C packs, so something is up with these monitors..
Different adaptors you can find in sections: "hardware & accessories. > Wires & Plugs > Battery/ESC/Motor Connectors" and "Batteries & Accessories > Battery Adapters". If you need connector without wires try to ask at your local electronics store. And you can cut connector from this SKU: 318000018. Hope that helps.
you have to solder two wires i.e red and black to the female adapter just dip a portion in a water (submerge) in water during soldering to protect the plastic material from melting for using with transmitter use a series of diode which reduces approx .5 volts make it 9 volt check with multimeter and than use it dj
The battery has 2 connections, one way is 2 wires the other is the balance plug. This unit is connected in parralel to the 2 wire connection, or across the balance plug reading the full voltage. use a multi meter to test the balance plug trying all possible connections you will see the ground to each cell and then ground to full voltage. that's the connection you want if you use the balance plug. Which I reccomend. simply makes it easier, 1 connection to motor, one to balance plug and battery is in unit. Have fun.
You need to connect wires to the battery. You can use main pair of wires for it or you can connect it to balance plug (with 3 or more contacts depends on batterie cells quantity). If you choose balance plug then you need to find proper connector and solder monitor wires to it: red to red, black to black.
BTW, do you know that turnigy 9x has it's own battery monitor that measure internal battery? It shows voltage on LCD-display and start buzzing when it lower than 9V or near that. Hope this helps.
There is a blue LED and a Red LED. THe blue LED is always on, but as the battery gets lower, will start flashing faster until the red one comes on. Then the buzzer will start beeping faster and faster as the battery starts to really get low. It's a great little system.
Still, the description says "This unit will give a warning buzzer when the Lipoly pack drops below 9v", which on 3S means 3v per cell. So the description is wrong then? That would make more sense than a 9v alarm =).
After giving some thought on what you say i think i know what happens. In my EasyStar when the battery is full(12.6V) and i give it full throttle the battery voltage drops to about 11.9 or even more. This is normal, but the better the battery, the lower the voltage drop. Maybe your battery is just not that great, or you draw very much current from it and the voltage drops so much that the buzzer sounds. The buzzer should stop if you cut the throttle.
If your buzzer starts to BEEP right after you start your model it is possible you have too strong motor, too big propeller or too weak battery. For instance if your motor gets 40A you need not less than 20C-30C (for 2200mAh) battery. If your battery is 15C it is too weak.
You can connect it directly to your ESC plug - together with the XT60 (or other) or you can use the plug that is added to the monitor (white one - balance plug) and soldier to it - on outsides pins. Connect the ballance plug to the battery and you see - red is " " and black is "-" and at the same places you solder the monitor and the ballance plug you have with monitor. Don't forget to isolate it - it cannot be shortcutted.
you have to solder the wires from the monitor connector on the battery balancing, taking care not to reverse the wires (red to red and black to black). Hope this helps. After you install what battery monitor on your model and use it when you simply connect to the battery by battery balancer.
WHEN LED START BLINKING (BLUE) IT MEANS THAT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFULL. AFTER A LITTLE TIME WHEN LED IS RED IT MEANS THAT YOU HAVE TO LAND AS SOON AS POSSIBLE (ABOUT 30 sec.). I HAVE TRIED THIS AND IS A SAFE WAY TO LAND ALWAYS WITHOUT A FEAR.
u use it in the heli , while flying so u hear it buzzz if u are on low battery. can save u from dead battery situation (crush save), or just from damaging the battery from over discharge.
there are some other Buttery monitors just use the search :) .
What good is a battery alarm that sounds at 9v? By that time, it only takes a few seconds for a cell to reach 2.6v and the damage is already done. A battery alarm needs to ring at about 3.3v/cell giving enough time to land.
Is important to think: You have to keep mind how many minutes normally you pack of batteries remains in safe operational duty. This device is used for last warning before your model turn off and crash.
Battery monitors are only a backup saftey device,anyone flying electric should become familiar with current draw and time each battery will give,i use them on a variety of electric heli"s,i mainly stick to a timer function in my TX
with both you cannot go wrong,also have a look at the battery checker that has a per cell read out,great value and helps with permissable flight times
Thanks for all your answers. I bought one about three years ago, (not the same as this one) and it was useless. When the alarm went off, the ESC also cut out for low voltage. I ended up building my own making a voltage divider from op amp with a variable resistor to set minimum voltage trigger. It has two alarms with flashing led's . Works ok but is hard to see even when a close flyby is done. I was looking at this for a friend. I have the original old one I bought and will try adding a resistor to it.
Yes it has 4 pins because it's a 3S (cell) battery, if U look at your battery, U find the same plug but in male . This is essantial to prperly charge or discharge ur battery. The pins U have negative(black), positve DATA ground are all red. U just plug in the male pin in the female and you re on. N.B. Solder properly & cover your solders with shrink tubing. Enjoy :)
I soldered black to black and red to red. When I plug it in it beeps and the buzzer sounds and will not shut off. Battery is fully charged. Tried with different batteries and got same result. Any suggestions?
Looks like you got a broken one. After the first beep it should go silent and continuous blue should come on till voltage drops (according to the chart). I bought 3 of these, tested two with success - the third is still packed. I would recommend to take this as missfortune and order again :)
are you using 3S batteries? It works fine with me as long as I use the correct battery. This item will not autodetect the S in a battery. Also are you plugging it to the balance connector or directly to the battery output?
primero este articulo es solo para 3s si se conecta a bateria 3 s la luz es azul sin parpadear con un pitido es correcto cuando la bateria baja de intensidad por debajo de 10v la luz es roja con pitido intermitente y mas intenso cuanto mas baja de intensidad la bateria CIRROS82
verification that is lipo 3s, then the welding is done by a red and black on the other ends of the legs positive / negative the lipo has a balance connector for sure it's the right way and that it corresponds with red to red and black to black. if you rispoettato this procedure should work.
I did was soldered the wire first then heat the soldered area with soldering iron. While it still melting (solder flux), join it to the correct pin. Do not hold too long! or the plastic might melt. When you see both wire and the pin bonded, then move away the soldering iron. Wait a few second to cool down the wire bonding. If you still not sure, practice first with other materials.
tienes que preestaar los cables primero, y despues con un soldador de poca potencia y un estao fino que funda rapido le aades una pequea cantidad a las patillas del conector, despues juntas las dos partes (cable y conector ) y das un poco de calor y se fundira rapido, quedando cable y conector bien unido, importante que no le des mucho calor y retires rapido el soldador cuando funda el estao.
Plug the loose plug end into an adapter lead (NOT A BATTERY) to keep the pins aligned during the soldering process. Clamp the loose plug end in a pair of hemostats, pliars with a rubber band around handle or a pair of vise grips. Then tin each of the wire leads by touching your solder to the tip of the soldering iron so a little ball of solder forms then put the bare end of the wire lead into the solder and then immediatly shake off the excess. Tin the conector prongs the same way and then hold the wire to the connector prong and aply the soldering iron until the solder on the tinned wire and tinned proing prong flow together. Remove heat immediatly.
You can use a solder gun with lower power or try to solder them very quickly and you Will not have any problem. I've also fixed the pins of the white connector with a drop of ciano to avoid their sliding into the housing.
1. Tin the wire, cover it with solder.
2. Add little bit of solder to the connectors quickly before they heat up.
3. Put them near each other and melt
Honestly, I was not careful at all when I soldered, and it was not a problem.
first get some solder on the wires and when soldering to the plug touch the iron as far as possible from the plastic, if you can't do it in the first attempt let it cool first then try again. Soldering it directly to ESC is an another option
first, if you have a temperature controlled soldering station, set it to about 380 - 400C. yes, that is very hot, but the trick is to apply the heat very quickly, before the plastic has time to melt( try do do it in about 1 second only ! ). now put a bit of tin on the pins you want to solder. apply heat only very shortly. now, tin your wires with your solder. you may apply a nice thick layer of solder on them. now, put a small shrink-tube over your wire, and place the wire on top of the pin. now you just apply heat ( once again, very fast ) on the pin and wire, until they merge together. check for bad connections ( your wire shouldn't come off with a gentle pull ) and place the shrink-tube. you're done !
I guess on way to to so is to connect the plug to a battery. Beware not to short the battery! If you have an old gone battery use or another loose connector, use that. Don't use to much time when soldering.. Use hot iron and short time.
First, use a small, low watt (15 or less) soldering iron.
Second, use only the amount of solder needed to make the connection.
Third, if you have an old battery pack that you're going to throw away, discharge it (soak it in salt water) overnight then cut off the old balancing connector. Then plug your battery monitor connector into this balancing connector. This will keep the pins in line as you do your soldering, but please follow #1 and #2 as well.
Very easy. First you have solder the wire. Second you have to solder the two pins of the plug ( faster as possible ) Third you put the wire into the pin. Then with the iron you re-heat the solder of the wire and they solder together.
Strip about 1/16 of wire and try applying some solder to it first. Then, lay the wire (with the solder on it) onto a connector and touch the soldered wire with your gun. It only takes a second and the wire should fuse with the connector (once you remove the heat). I use .032" rosin-core solder. It will heat up really fast. I'm not a professional, but that works for me. Good luck
I have been using this batt monitoring devise and found that at full charge light blue, and flashing blue when getting weaker. At 9.7V the blue off and Red light on and one beep alert. Less than 9.7V contonius beeping sound to warn you to land the Heli and batt need recharging. Excellen devise and very helpful....
There is another similar device with 2 buzzers, red and green LED and applicable for 2, 3, and 4 cells. The buzzers are comparatively louder than this one and more importantly, the price is even cheaper. This item seems out-dated already.
The diffrence is the voltage that it triggers at. 3c is for 3 cell Lipo batteries, 4c for 4 cell... etc. So 2c= 7.4v, 3c= 11.1v and so on. You need a different trigger voltage for the alarm depending on what voltage batteries you are using.
A "C" is the capacity of the batery and its use for carging/dicharging terms.
Example. you a Lipobat with 1000mah capacity and the inscription has 1C charging and 10 discharging. With this you can chrge up to 1A and 10A of discharge. If you pass theses values you can "kill" the bateries or have an acident whit that if you over load theses values.
Other example: baterie 2200mah 2C charge and 25 discharge. so you ca charge 2200ma x 2 = 4400 = 4,4Amp and discharge 2200ma x 25 = 55000 = 55 Amp.
Note: for example if you have only 25C these value is for discharge and charge is 1C.
Respect these value and you have a baterie for many times of use.
no more dead batteries these things work great loud enough to hear the beeping the lights arnt so great but the beep is good i have put one on each plane.cheap as chips considering how much money you will save on batteries.
A reviewer said it starts beeping at 9.8v, that seems a bit high seeing as its generally accepted that you can use a lipo down to 3v/cell (thus 9.0v). Can this be adjusted at all, otherwise I imagine that the beeping will get very annoying and you wont know when it gets down to actually 9.0v?
Think about it: it should warn you that your battery is critically low, not state the fact it's dead! You still need time to safely land your craft. The voltage cutoff is adequate and you sould fly so as to never hear it beeping.
I think it is intended for planes and heli's so you want some time to land safely, if it triggers at too low a voltage you may run out of juice in the air and come crashing down. It may be a small nuisance on land vehicles, but I notice that you don't have much time left when it starts beeping to when you notice a power drop and it's time to swap batteries anyway. It's still better than burning up your r/c and battery(s).
There is a way to safely use a LiPo battery in a Tx! Install a 3S Maxpro Battery Monitor, but install it AFTER the main switch. If you install it directly to the balance connector you will have the current draw all the time. It is not reliable enough to just look att the Voltmeter on TX. You might not look at the meter when you really need to. Check Rhino 2620mAh 3S 11.1v Tx Lipoly Pack and it's Discussion forum for your TX. If you are a real modeller you can drill a hole in the TX so you can see the Flasching LED.
Can a LED on this device be transformed on a separate wire? The whole thing looks not "scale like", I was thinking of putting a buzzer inside the aicraft (perhaps, upgrading its volume) and the LED at the bottom of the plane...
If you put a meter on the JST plug of a 3S with +red to red, the other three wires (various colours) will give you the first cell voltage on the one nearest the red, the first two cells combined on the next one and the total of all three 3cells on the furthest from the red. That's the one you hook up to the black wire. And of course, red to red. If you got it right, it will beep and flash a blue light if your voltage is sufficient. Check the wire order as different makers use other combinations, but this applies to Loong Max, Zippy, HXT, Hobbycity and some others.
Steady red is on beginning with slow beeping. Power consumption 11mA. With beeping ca 20mA
53 thumbs up!
Works well. Nice to know when your battery is running low. This is a very cheap insurance to protect your large investment into the plane and batteries. Keep you, your plane and spectators safe. You do need to solder your own connectors it comes as you see in the picture with no manual. Just solder the 2 wired to the two outside pins on the connector matching plus and - and you are ready to go.
It is of a limited value if you have an EDF plane or fly in the area where EDF plane is preset. The signal is just no loud enough to pick up over the roar of the EDF. You'll have to do a no power, low altitude fly-by to pick up the siren. The warning LED is small and unless you fly in the evening or have eagle eyes you will not see it in flight unless doing a slow fly-by.
It is very good for small GWS or 3d Planes that fly quiet or very close to the pilot.
I also found the plug to be fragile and it broke with in 3 uses so I just plug the wires directly into the battery.
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Sam I Am
41 thumbs up!
This is a great item. It works great and is at an amazing price. I would defiantly recommend this to everyone. It is a must have for all hobbyists. No one wants to lose their plane just because their batteries were to low. I did once and learned from my mistake. I bought this and it works great.
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37 thumbs up!
Good lipo monitor I have one on my every model. Why 4 stars only? Small differences in alarm level. But it's a must have for every LiPo user
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28 thumbs up!
In my opinion this is a good accessory for all the electric slow fly planes and 450 size helis. You can see and hear the warnings, so you know when you have to land. The led is not very very bright and the buzzer not so loud, but for the price is the best you can have. For helis and foam planes i think is best.
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21 thumbs up!
The Maxpro Battery Monitor is a good device to monitor your lipos. But i think it is a little bit too quite to use it in an airplane or helicopter. So, you have to fly near to hear the beeps. I uses this monitor in series with an diode to monitor my 3s transmitter lipo. So it beeps at about 10,5 V.
There is a led on the monitor. above 11,0V its lighting blue 10,0-11,0V its blinking blue under 10,0V its lighting red under 9,8V its beeping and blinking red
current draw is really small, about 5mA.
so, because of the not so loudly buzzer => 4 stars