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The Hobbyking SS series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play.
A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic.
Rayan. These are for planes, as the throttle only spins one way unless you actually switch the motor wires. There is no forward/reverse function. Hope this helps. Haydz.
Only if your toy has a brushkess 3 phase motor. If you have a brushed, 2 wire DC motor, no, you need to look for a "brushed ESC", there are 20A and 30A versions here in HK.
can some tell me what kind of connectors come on these low amp speed controllers. I bought some two cell lipo batteries and they have very small connectors that will not plug into my 30 amp speed controllers. the picture does not show the connectors
They have no connectors attached but the ones below will be good for any motor and battery suitable to this ESC. As for the very small connectors you mentioned on your batteries. I think they may be the red JST connectors.
For the motor 3 pairs of these plus shrink wrap to prevent shorting:
www.link
For the battery end, 1 of these and www.link
The link does not appear so here's the description.
Battery end of ESC: Female JST battery pigtail 12cm
Motor end of ESC: 2mm Gold Connectors 10 pairs
Heat shrink insulation to prevent shorting: Turnigy 3mm Heat Shrink Tube
Hope this helps
hello all im building a balsa guillows rubber band air plane to convert to R/C,it has a 20 inch wing span.wanted to use for 3ch flight nothing crazy would this esc be the way to go?any ideas on a good size motor and prop to pair it with for a model like this?
Christopher.
I'd recommend a 2000- 2400kv motor, about 4inch prop with the 6amp ESC (8would be excess) 2s lipo about 260amh.
Warning this would be quite fast so you may need to trim the throttle down Hope this helps. Regards Hayden.
You are welcome, hobbyking just cut off any reference to the web and replace with "****link", I forgot that. Type "20A_BRUSHED" on search box.
Next time be polide with people who try to help.
in the brushless motor there are three colored wires coming from it. Black, red, and Yellow. which wire should be connected to this ESC? or which respective wire should connected each other? Black to A, Red to B, and Yellow to C. or what?
thanks
Connect all three wires to the esc. It doesn't matter what color they are between the motor and esc. You only need to reverse any two of the wires to change the motor direction.. hope this helps. Mike
When it comes to motor/esc color doesn't matter. If motor runs in reverse, just switch two of the wires and the motor will turn the other direction. They aren't like servo wires were you have a positive/negative/signal.
hi guys I want to collect a passenger plane until please please understand that to what is suitable want that There were two engine and behind the receiver turned upside down thanks in advance
Could it be that boris needs to connect a twin engine (motor) setup in a pusher configuration??
Hi Boris, do you mean 2 x engine(motor)and turned upside down like a Saras?
the bixler 2 just came out with a new motor mount that might siut your needs look at the newest one to raise the mount and recive a bigger motor or prop if needed hope that helps you Boris
hi guys,
do you know any connector for esc to motor or battery? so we don't have to solder it, and can easily change the battery or motor at anytime..
any link of the product in HK store will be appreciated.
Bullet connectors are the preferred way, but need to be soldered on. Once soldered on esc/motor swaps are plug&play. Most esc/motors have this done at the factory leaving the battery for you to choose. Pick the style of plug that is most common with your batt. So you only solder once (esc) rather than every time you buy a battery, like when using deans plugs.
Multi-Rotor throttle calibration problem
Hi!
Can someone help me in throttle calibration on my Control Board V2.1 ?
In the ESC manual seems that doesn't exist the step to calibrate throttle min max position
In calibration mode of the board i succeed in programming all the ESC parameters and they seem also calibrated but after switching off battery they forget the throttle calibration.
Hi!
I verified that the problem is not calibration but something www.link I connect directly the ESC to the RX they all start correctly at the same throttle point
If I connect them on the kk board I find that they start in a sequence
this sequence is the same even if I rotate the motors on the board
can someone tell me what happens?
did you mean BEC if so this has a built in BEC that handles up to 1000mAH/1AMP the speed controll will happly take 2/3cell lipo and is desighned mainly for small aircraft EG* 200 size helis} wich will perform fine with any 2/3cell lipo up to 2000mAM
TU peux les utilisés par exemple sur un modèle en EPP - dépron ou autre materiaux léger. Pour ma par Jen est utilisésé Sur des avions En 2S avec Un 2204 Et une helice 9*4,7 et tout vas bien pas de soucis tu peux aussi monter une helice 8*4,3 et passé en 3S ça fonctionne nickel. Après 800 Mah OU beaucoup plus même 2200 Mah pour ma part cela depend de l'autonomie que tu veux lui donner ...
Hi Mario Reis. This ESC will run 2S but you should tell what Aeroplane and motor you wish to use this ESC on. This well help to recommend what ESC will be most suitable for you. 8-10 amp is usually for small motors used models up to approximately 350g. But it also depends on what prop you use. Please post more info.
Depends on the motor used, I've used S2 900mAh with 22** outrunner, and S2 350mAh with a 10g outrunner. Both combinations work well, but don't go any higher a 12A ESC will handle S3 better.
Hi HHubert, This ESC is a good match for the 2204-14T, as it's rated at 7.5A max current with a 10A ESC recommended. As long as you don't over-prop the motor or run continuous full throttle, this ESC will work fine. The 850mah is a good choice and should give approx. 10 minute flight times at 2/3 throttle average power demand. Cheers!
If you place a 7" prop on the motor, it will run perfectly on 3S. If you place a 8" prop, it's better 2S battery, or 3S if you are not at full throttle every time *)
guys my deadline is one year. i have PRODUCT ID: Quadcopter frame. 1.i need esc, motor, battery, propeller combination to lift around 2 kg. 2)whch camera to mount n what all other things to buy to record the video in my comp? plz let me know even the less imp, parts also coz im new to it? thanks
I copied my notes from last month, if it is from interest* (I can't post links here, but you'll find those ESC via search and using show-all on comments and reviews) Personally I use Plush 6A, 10A etc. seem to be nice for micro quad, I use them on 120/130g Quads (5/10g BL).
From the reviews and comments of the ...
...SS 15-18A ESC: "quadcopter project - smooth with the AX-2308N1100"
...SS 18-20A ESC: "quadcopter - tower pro - no problems" - "These ... are not affected by the (hobby wing esc) bug"
...SS 25-30A ESC: "Shutoff" - "burnout"
...HobbyKing_10A: Supposed to work for quads, not specified which board was used
...HobbyKing_6A: Supposed to work in a Turnigy micro quad, no info on the KK/HK Board
its mode 1 tx..and 2s lipo. i calibrated esc..its done..but whn it comes to arming the board not happening..i trimmed throttle low and rudder high..wats wrong?
Akshay, Sorry to say, but this is a SUPPO ESC and should not be used with any multi-rotor controller. But, to arm the board, do as iflylilplanes says and trim your throttle all the way down. Try to arm the board then either left or right. If it arms, then trim the throttle back up until it does not arm and back down a few clicks. Just don't give it throttle with this ESC or you risk burning up a motor. If it does take to the air, you risk a motor dropping out and crashing. These SUPPO ESCs are great for planes but do not have the processing speed to work with multi-rotor controllers. Please award the first person that sufficiently answered your question.
hey guys..i tested and programmed each esc induvisually and motor n all works..i connected everything on frame with the control board..mine is configuration quad.. so i didnt flash it. All connections with x and esc's are fine..but none of the motors are running..why???
If you get the motors to run with these ESCs, you will burn one or more of the motors up. The board tries to give inputs at the rate of over 100 times per second. These ESCs have a much lower refresh rate maybe 10 to 20 times per second at the fastest. When they get too many inputs, they will bog down and one leg of power will fail leaving two legs hot but the motor will not turn. This makes the coils act like a heating element and start to burn. If you are bound to try this anyway, make sure you are somewhere outdoors so that if you can not unplug the battery fast enough and it eventually burns an ESC. Then the control board and RX burn. It could short out the entire system and cause your battery to discharge at such a rate that it explodes. A lipo battery burns at a high temperature so make sure you are outdoors. A college classroom or even a lab is no place for this to happen. Please award the first person that adequately answers your question.
On quadcopters, you arm the motors by holding the rudder stick full to the left or right, I'm not sure witch, for a few seconds, you should hear or see an arming signal.
It does not matter. If it spins in the wrong direction, you just need to swap ANY two and it will reverse. Before soldering try it conected loosely or clamps.
On one side you have the Rx connector and 2 big cables, red and black, those must go to the battery. The other 3 cables go to motor. Order does not matter in sensorless ESC. It will start to spin in one direction. If you need to reverse it, just swap any pair of black cables. Goo luck!
You can connect any of the three wires of the ESC to any of the three wires from the motor. If it run's in the wrong direction you want, all you have to do is switch any two wires and it will run in the proper direction. Just don't use them on a quad.
Any wire on the ECS to any wire on the motor, if it goes the wrong way exchange two of the wires and there you are. Some manufactures use coloured wires, some don't.
For regular use (=small plane) you probably do not need a programming card. Under the product description click the "files" tab-image and there is the FULL programming description.
"SUPPO™ ™™ ™ Speed Controller Programming Instructions For ESC with simple options (Aircraft functions) 20A/30A/40A
Programming Instructions:
1. Connect your motor and receiver to the speed controller, but do not connect the battery yet.
2. Turn on your transmitter and full up the throttle st
Have a look at this www.link says: "To program this controller you have to move transmitter throttle to full position.
Now connect battery to controller.
Wait some seconds, than you hear:
*peep* - *short pause* - *peep*
*pause*
*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*
*pause*
*peep*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*peep*
*pause*
this sequence will repeat..."
Do not use this ESC on a quadcopter. it uses minimal computing memory and can not think fast enough for what the control board needs. You will get motors that will not spin and then will burn. If they do spin, they will drop out when the gyros try to make corrections. Bad Juju in the air. I've tried SUPPO ESCs and can tell you they don't work for quads. Get programmable ESC such as the turnigy plush line. Hope this helps.
Akshay, I would not use them on a quadcopter. The board sends info to the ESC more than 100 times per second and these can not process that info fast enough so at the least they will lock up and cause only two legs of power to fire. This will burn up the motor (magic smoke some have said). Worst, they will may get your quad off the ground and when you try to turn, adjust or do any inputs, it will cause the gyro's to work frantically to keep it level and then on will drop motor will drop out. In the air this means a crash. I know both of these for a fact as I have experienced both. I have 2 burnt FC 28-12 1534kv motors and a destroyed quad frame from gaining elevation and having a motor drop out. Sorry for the bad news, but I hope you learn from my mistake and get some programmable ESCs. Much better than the alternative. I believe the Turnigy Plush series are all programmable.
can u send the item no. of these u suggest for my requirement..coz i have little clue of it since u have experience in it..brushlees motor that would fit by wooden frame i got from here :)
I'm running 4 - 28-22 1200kv motors (PRODUCT ID: FC2822) and 4 Detrum Dynam 18A ESCs from hobby partz. Another inexpensive ESC is the 18A ESC RCX from My RC Mart. I noticed the HK programmable ESC is in stock now. It is actually a Hobby Wing ESC sold by HK. That's why on the cover it says HK HW 20A ESC (PRODUCT ID: HK-SS20A-HW). This is actually an 18A ESC with a burst of 20A like most 18A ESCs. It will work fine. This is my Xcopter. Hope this helps!
Oh.. for a Quadcopter? You kinda need all the power you can get. Whether they say it or not, just about all BL motors were designed to run on 12V. If you are trying to run a micro quad that's different. and you'll need a higher KV rating. For batteries, you should get the highest continuous (C) rating too. I run 40C on mine. It's divided into 4 motors giving 10A per motor. There fore you need as much power (Voltage is the easy way) as you can get to your motors. Use the most efficient motor and prop set up you can. BTW what motor are you running? We can work from there and please re-ask your question in the HK control board area. Give the specs on the motors you have to use and it will be much easier to help you. If I don't have an answer, there are lots of knowledgeable people there that can assist. Take care and happy flying!
I use it on a small toy car, converted to RC car for the kids. It handles the variable load of a car, and the variable commands from the kids, without problems. Good luck with your quad!
I don't know why people keep telling irrelevant stories to my question, but please keep it on the subject.. I heard the HK series are a bit slow to respond that's all..
Thanks for the offer, but id like to hear from someone who actually used these on a multicopter. Its too hard to tell responsetime from just flicking the throttle stick, it has to have a very rapid response or the quad will be lazy on stabilizing itself.
Point of the RC car story is this. Phisical inertia in blades is high and sudden variations in speed is not possible. Al least not as quickly as in cars. Tires can go from full speed to stop in a second. If an ESC can handle a car, it is really fast enough to handle a simple fixed pith blade. Of course, if you are new to the hobby, I should have take more space to explain...
I think a small GWS prop has less problems spinning up then a lumpy car drivetrain. The point is it has to be fast to respond. The input > output timeframe is known to be sluggish on some HK controllers, but ive only heard it about the bigger sized ones so I was wondering.
The reason why good brushless motors for cars have external position sensors is because ESC often loose sync because of external sudden speed changes. That desn't happen with props since speed changes are commanded, not external. Of course I haven't measured sync pulses in this ESC, but it behaves well. I'm sorry if I was not clear.
Do not use them with HK-Quadcopter-Board, at least not if flashed with up-to-date firmware. They will (and they do!) burn because of to high refresh rate!
Chaosphilipp, I saw the post about them burning up, and want to tell you that I have 4 on the way with 4 5x3 props (CW and CCW) to power 4 C10 2900kv motors on a 2S battery. I've scratch built a micro quad using specs from the Bambucopter after scaling a photo to get the airframe deminsions. I know that this setup works well on a micro Extra 300 I built.. will see how it runs on my ultra light quad. Wish me luck and happy flying!
'course i wish ya all the best, in my case they didn't work.
(As well as the Red Brick ESCs, they didn't burn but tended to drop frames...)
Now i have three SS-8A ESCs here (3 because one burnt), one will fly in my HK Reactor, let's see where to use the other two .
Guess for normal applications these are absolutely okay :)
So, they would cut out on you at inopportune moments? on would just drop? I had that issue with the 10A Red Brick on just about everything. I guess there is a reason they call them bricks.. LOL! Looks like I may have to shop a competitor initials HP for an ESC. They cost more than they do here at HK but at least they have more programming capability and usually arrive within 4 to 5 days.
The Bricks merely drop frames, just as a camera does.
Means the don't cut off completely, just a few ms, enough to make a copter turn over and speed into the grass.
Delivery time is a bonus for more local shops, but if you buy turnigy plush ESCs you'll get a rock solid ESC for quite an acceptable fee.
I'm looking at Detrum or Hobbywing. Both are the same price $9.50 and have the same specs. Cutting out is something you don't want on a multirotor bird... Bad Juju LOL
I believe experience is the best teacher. I have the experience of using these and burned up two motors pretty quickly. Learn from my mistakes and get at least the turnigy plush series (programmable). Any SUPPO will not process the info fast enough.
Qiuseppi and DennisT1 thank you very much for your help.this gave enough knowledge to make decision on what to with this stuff..i will post a vid soon.
Ron,and holger,we try to get a vid of the plane flying with the new esc but its quite to fast using 3s we try it several times but we cant get a good view of it..i use the 2s but still it too fast to capture a good view...maybe the plane was too small..sorry...f86 micro..
i want to upgrade my mig15 35mm PNF version.stock set up are 6A esc,350mah 2s lipo..now i want to use 3s lipo batt.will this work? if i will replace the 6A stock esc?pls help.
This ESC will work with 3S battery, but motor may not. You will be increasing the wattage significantly unless you drop back on prop size considerably. If you are after more power, you should also check to see if the motor is capable of handling more.
The above response regarding prop size is not applicable in this instance. The question pertains to a fixed edf fan size for which an alternate diameter "prop" is not an option.
What might be an issue, however is in the amount of blades on the rotor. I believe the PNF comes with two rotors, one being 5 blades and the other being 3 blades. It might be necessary to use the 3 blade rotor to keep the motor from overheating, but possibly not.
So, yes the ESC will operate on three cells w/o issue, and the motor should work fine, especially with the 3 blade rotor.
I stand corrected as to prop size, I didnt realize it was ducted fan. However, increasing voltage by 50% without verifying power handling of the motor is still likely to let the magic smoke out. Using 3 blade instead of 5 blade rotor would have the same effect as a smaller diameter prop, assuming same pitch on both. I suspect the 3 blade has more pitch to increase top speed, and the 5 has less pitch for better thrust at low speeds* both resulting in roughly the same wattage from the motor.
In that case, either rotor could still result in excessive wattage and burned motor.
So, I stand by my recommendation that motor wattage should be verified before chancing the changeover (unless you are willing to replace/upgrade the motor anyway).
Your point is well taken, except that it's already been proven that the stock motors in these 35mm EDFs are quite happy on 3s LiPo provided yhe stock esc is replaced by one that is more www.link
Your point is well taken, except that it's already been proven that the stock motors in these 35mm EDFs are quite happy on 3s LiPo provided the stock esc is replaced by one that is more robust.
I'll defer to your knowledge of this exact setup then.
Only way I've found to post a link is add spaces in it around each word. Do wish HK would allow real links* at least to their own products if they don't want to send people off-site.
If it will fit in your Mig, it should work just fine. My only question would be is the motor in your Mig rated for a 3S? If not, you should look at the micro C10 motor. Not sure what kv rating you are running but the C10 is a 2900kv and is capable of handling 11.1v. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
I need to control a small dc motor with a servo tester,I was told to use this speed controller. The speeds that I need are real slow, will this work and if the speeds are too fast, how can I slow it down?
If it is a DC motor, I believe you will need a Brushed Motor ESC. If the motor only has two wire coming out of it, then it is a brushed motor and you need to get the Brushed motor ESC. And if you have a brushless motor, I believe you can control the speed of the motor by plugging the ESC into where the servo usuaully goes using the JR plug and adjusting the little knob on the servo tester
Wheather your motor is brushed or brushless you can't get a "real slow" speed with either appropriate esc. To do so you need to have a closed loop system. That is the actual motor speed needs to be sensed and fed into your speed control. RC electronic speed controls don't do this. They operate "open loop" with no speed feedback.
You may also want to research 'stepper' motors. Sounds like they might be what you are trying to accomplish. Also, consider gearing a motor down. Ultra-low speed direct motor operation can be a bit unreliable because a little load change can make big differences in RPM.
LLamasbrgarin, If the DC motor is a brushless, this should work fine! However, you should get a low kv motor if you want it to turn real slow. If it is a brushed motor, then you will need a brushed ESC. Hope this helps and Happy fly.. uh.. What ever you're doing! Ha ha!
Just check the voltage of operation, if the micro receiver is only for 1S wont work, but if you are using 2s will work. Check if the micro receiver has a standar JR plug too.
Yes, that is no problem. This ESC has a integrated BEC ("Voltage Stablelizer") with 5V and 1A output which can be used to power the reciever with your 2S (or 3S) Lipo. ****** German: Ja, dass ist kein Problem. Er kann sogar den Reciever mit 5V und 1A Strom versorgen. Dafür ist ein "Spannungsstabilisierer" (BEC) eingebaut, der auch bei wechselnder Last am Akku 5V liefert.
That depends on which micro RX you mean. If you are referring to the Orange R410, then yes it will. If you are referring to the Orange R415, then you would have to remove the servo plug and replace it with a molex plug. Best to just get the molex leads and solder the wires together. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Few things can happen...Battery plug in wrongly, Faulty Wiring, Amp drawn too high from prop size. I know this through experience. It's a good ESC for indoor or light crafts.
Only two of them burned, wiring is the same and the same 3S lipo is used, no props were mounted, just testing, i will check my wirings again, could it be a bad cell number detection ?
NO they can just be **** straight from the factory , i have 6 of these and like you 2 of them blew for no reason , not under throttle , no props on motors , wiring all correct , programmed all correct, sometimes you just have to accept that for cheap prices now and again you will get a dud , there is no point contacting support as they will do nothing.
Alexplose, I truly hope you are not trying to use these ESCs on a multicopter. You can ruin motors, these ESCs, Batteries, and if the bird does become airborne, you can crash it when a motor drops out.
these are the esc's i used for my mini quad and they worked great with kk boards, open pilot copter control an multiwii will test with other flight controllers soon
Two or more of these ESCs plugged into the same receiver in the throttle channel interferes with each other and does not run. BEC red wire is not connected. Any solution or explanation? Thanks
I would try: 1- Cover both ESC with a metal shield (like aluminium foil). So you´ll know that noise is comming form the wires. 2- A separate 5V supply for the receiver. So you'll know noise is not coming form de 5v line. 3- Test both ESC on 2 different channels. So you'll know if noise is coming from the control line. 4- Finally, if noise is finding its way by de ground link, your only choice is to replace one ESC with an opto-isolated ESC. Good luck!
Any other of this ESC is injecting noise, or only one? it may be a defective capacitor. Either way, sometimes 'cheap' means 'problematic', for a quadcopter for instance it's better to use an isolated ESC. Good luck!
Nope. It happens with about 7 other ESCs. I'm going to switch out all the ESCs
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
Gues Ringo
likes
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UNRATED
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111 thumbs up!
Very good controller, specially for this money. With 8A it becomes a little bit warm, no problem. One disadvantage: there is no manual included. (5 Stars with manual!)
With my controller there is no difference in break with the 10pcnt throttle position reported by Frank. Are the different versions?
I have searched in web an i found that the controller is programmable. Possible options: - LIPO-mode (auto selection 2/3 cells) - NIMH-mode - Break on / off
To program this controller you have to move transmitter throttle to full position. Now connect battery to controller. Wait some seconds, than you hear: *peep* - *short pause* - *peep* *pause* *peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep* *pause* *peep*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*peep* *pause* this sequence will repeat...
When you want to use NIHM cells, you have to move throttle to off position when you hear the first *beep*beep*. Than you have to wait for a longer *beeep* and a short *beep*. That's all. You can disconnect battery now.
When you want to select LIPO mode, start from the beginning (throttle full, connect battery, listen to the beeps) At the time when you hear the first single *beep* move throttle to off and wait for *beeep* and *beep*.
When you want to switch Brake On or Off, start from the beginning, then wait for the first *peep*peep*peep* within one sequence and put throttle to off. Wait for *beeep* and *beep*.
Note: When you connect battery and throttle is in off posit
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Greg Holmes
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UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
31 thumbs up!
I don't know if I got a dud or not but this speed controller does not start my motors very well. I tried 8 different outrunner motors and 2 inrunner motors from 5-20 gram size class and most had a very rough start up but once running was OK. It seems to me the motors that had the hardest time on start up had the most magnet cogging and a few of my motors would not start at all. My HexTronik 5gram Brushless Outrunner 2000kv (the least magnet cogging) would start OK but had a tiny rough start. I did not expect much from a $8.00 S.C. but I had to try it. For $15.00 the Turnigy Plush 10amp 9gram Speed controller is the way to go as this has proven to be an excellent performing S.C. that works every bit as good as ones I paid three times for. 04/09/08
3 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Kostas Brouzas
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Quality
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24 thumbs up!
Today received it, according to the customer community this is a suppo 10A http://www.suppomodel.com/.
Not programmable and really easy to use, small and light. But slow down voltage(not cut-off)is too low 8,4 for 3 lipo cells and 5,3 for 2 lipo cells. Manufactures site claim "Auto Low battery Slow down at 3.0V/Lipo, cut-off at 2.9V/Lipo".
3 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Ludozzz
71 likes
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Quality
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22 thumbs up!
Ik heb enorm veel storing gehad met deze regelaar. Twee gekocht, met allebei storing, ook met verschillende ontvangers. Ook starten sommige motors slecht met deze regelaar.
Voor mij geen super simple regelaars meer!
English:
Ik have a lot of glitches with this ESC. If my plane is more than 5m away from me and the motor is on, the elevator and rudder panic... The start is very rough with some motors.
I can't recommend this ESC.
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Wolfgang Hackenberg
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20 thumbs up!
Super Regler. Gewicht mit Kabel 7g. Einfach anschließen und losfliegen, zeigt keine Macken. Leider war keine Beschreibung wg. den Einstellungen dabei, deshalb nur 4 Sterne! Ich kann diesen Regler nur weiterempfehlen!
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