can some tell me what kind of connectors come on these low amp speed controllers. I bought some two cell lipo batteries and they have very small connectors that will not plug into my 30 amp speed controllers. the picture does not show the connectors
They have no connectors attached but the ones below will be good for any motor and battery suitable to this ESC. As for the very small connectors you mentioned on your batteries. I think they may be the red JST connectors.
For the motor 3 pairs of these plus shrink wrap to prevent shorting:
For the battery end, 1 of these and www.link
The link does not appear so here's the description.
Battery end of ESC: Female JST battery pigtail 12cm
Motor end of ESC: 2mm Gold Connectors 10 pairs
Heat shrink insulation to prevent shorting: Turnigy 3mm Heat Shrink Tube
Hope this helps
hello all im building a balsa guillows rubber band air plane to convert to R/C,it has a 20 inch wing span.wanted to use for 3ch flight nothing crazy would this esc be the way to go?any ideas on a good size motor and prop to pair it with for a model like this?
I'd recommend a 2000- 2400kv motor, about 4inch prop with the 6amp ESC (8would be excess) 2s lipo about 260amh.
Warning this would be quite fast so you may need to trim the throttle down Hope this helps. Regards Hayden.
in the brushless motor there are three colored wires coming from it. Black, red, and Yellow. which wire should be connected to this ESC? or which respective wire should connected each other? Black to A, Red to B, and Yellow to C. or what?
When it comes to motor/esc color doesn't matter. If motor runs in reverse, just switch two of the wires and the motor will turn the other direction. They aren't like servo wires were you have a positive/negative/signal.
do you know any connector for esc to motor or battery? so we don't have to solder it, and can easily change the battery or motor at anytime..
any link of the product in HK store will be appreciated.
Bullet connectors are the preferred way, but need to be soldered on. Once soldered on esc/motor swaps are plug&play. Most esc/motors have this done at the factory leaving the battery for you to choose. Pick the style of plug that is most common with your batt. So you only solder once (esc) rather than every time you buy a battery, like when using deans plugs.
Multi-Rotor throttle calibration problem
Can someone help me in throttle calibration on my Control Board V2.1 ?
In the ESC manual seems that doesn't exist the step to calibrate throttle min max position
In calibration mode of the board i succeed in programming all the ESC parameters and they seem also calibrated but after switching off battery they forget the throttle calibration.
I verified that the problem is not calibration but something www.link I connect directly the ESC to the RX they all start correctly at the same throttle point
If I connect them on the kk board I find that they start in a sequence
this sequence is the same even if I rotate the motors on the board
can someone tell me what happens?
did you mean BEC if so this has a built in BEC that handles up to 1000mAH/1AMP the speed controll will happly take 2/3cell lipo and is desighned mainly for small aircraft EG* 200 size helis} wich will perform fine with any 2/3cell lipo up to 2000mAM
TU peux les utilisés par exemple sur un modèle en EPP - dépron ou autre materiaux léger. Pour ma par Jen est utilisésé Sur des avions En 2S avec Un 2204 Et une helice 9*4,7 et tout vas bien pas de soucis tu peux aussi monter une helice 8*4,3 et passé en 3S ça fonctionne nickel. Après 800 Mah OU beaucoup plus même 2200 Mah pour ma part cela depend de l'autonomie que tu veux lui donner ...
Hi Mario Reis. This ESC will run 2S but you should tell what Aeroplane and motor you wish to use this ESC on. This well help to recommend what ESC will be most suitable for you. 8-10 amp is usually for small motors used models up to approximately 350g. But it also depends on what prop you use. Please post more info.
Hi HHubert, This ESC is a good match for the 2204-14T, as it's rated at 7.5A max current with a 10A ESC recommended. As long as you don't over-prop the motor or run continuous full throttle, this ESC will work fine. The 850mah is a good choice and should give approx. 10 minute flight times at 2/3 throttle average power demand. Cheers!
guys my deadline is one year. i have PRODUCT ID: Quadcopter frame. 1.i need esc, motor, battery, propeller combination to lift around 2 kg. 2)whch camera to mount n what all other things to buy to record the video in my comp? plz let me know even the less imp, parts also coz im new to it? thanks
I copied my notes from last month, if it is from interest* (I can't post links here, but you'll find those ESC via search and using show-all on comments and reviews) Personally I use Plush 6A, 10A etc. seem to be nice for micro quad, I use them on 120/130g Quads (5/10g BL).
From the reviews and comments of the ...
...SS 15-18A ESC: "quadcopter project - smooth with the AX-2308N1100"
...SS 18-20A ESC: "quadcopter - tower pro - no problems" - "These ... are not affected by the (hobby wing esc) bug"
...SS 25-30A ESC: "Shutoff" - "burnout"
...HobbyKing_10A: Supposed to work for quads, not specified which board was used
...HobbyKing_6A: Supposed to work in a Turnigy micro quad, no info on the KK/HK Board
Akshay, Sorry to say, but this is a SUPPO ESC and should not be used with any multi-rotor controller. But, to arm the board, do as iflylilplanes says and trim your throttle all the way down. Try to arm the board then either left or right. If it arms, then trim the throttle back up until it does not arm and back down a few clicks. Just don't give it throttle with this ESC or you risk burning up a motor. If it does take to the air, you risk a motor dropping out and crashing. These SUPPO ESCs are great for planes but do not have the processing speed to work with multi-rotor controllers. Please award the first person that sufficiently answered your question.
hey guys..i tested and programmed each esc induvisually and motor n all works..i connected everything on frame with the control board..mine is configuration quad.. so i didnt flash it. All connections with x and esc's are fine..but none of the motors are running..why???
If you get the motors to run with these ESCs, you will burn one or more of the motors up. The board tries to give inputs at the rate of over 100 times per second. These ESCs have a much lower refresh rate maybe 10 to 20 times per second at the fastest. When they get too many inputs, they will bog down and one leg of power will fail leaving two legs hot but the motor will not turn. This makes the coils act like a heating element and start to burn. If you are bound to try this anyway, make sure you are somewhere outdoors so that if you can not unplug the battery fast enough and it eventually burns an ESC. Then the control board and RX burn. It could short out the entire system and cause your battery to discharge at such a rate that it explodes. A lipo battery burns at a high temperature so make sure you are outdoors. A college classroom or even a lab is no place for this to happen. Please award the first person that adequately answers your question.
On one side you have the Rx connector and 2 big cables, red and black, those must go to the battery. The other 3 cables go to motor. Order does not matter in sensorless ESC. It will start to spin in one direction. If you need to reverse it, just swap any pair of black cables. Goo luck!
You can connect any of the three wires of the ESC to any of the three wires from the motor. If it run's in the wrong direction you want, all you have to do is switch any two wires and it will run in the proper direction. Just don't use them on a quad.
Have a look at this www.link says: "To program this controller you have to move transmitter throttle to full position.
Now connect battery to controller.
Wait some seconds, than you hear:
*peep* - *short pause* - *peep*
*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*
*peep*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*peep*
this sequence will repeat..."
Do not use this ESC on a quadcopter. it uses minimal computing memory and can not think fast enough for what the control board needs. You will get motors that will not spin and then will burn. If they do spin, they will drop out when the gyros try to make corrections. Bad Juju in the air. I've tried SUPPO ESCs and can tell you they don't work for quads. Get programmable ESC such as the turnigy plush line. Hope this helps.
Akshay, I would not use them on a quadcopter. The board sends info to the ESC more than 100 times per second and these can not process that info fast enough so at the least they will lock up and cause only two legs of power to fire. This will burn up the motor (magic smoke some have said). Worst, they will may get your quad off the ground and when you try to turn, adjust or do any inputs, it will cause the gyro's to work frantically to keep it level and then on will drop motor will drop out. In the air this means a crash. I know both of these for a fact as I have experienced both. I have 2 burnt FC 28-12 1534kv motors and a destroyed quad frame from gaining elevation and having a motor drop out. Sorry for the bad news, but I hope you learn from my mistake and get some programmable ESCs. Much better than the alternative. I believe the Turnigy Plush series are all programmable.
I'm running 4 - 28-22 1200kv motors (PRODUCT ID: FC2822) and 4 Detrum Dynam 18A ESCs from hobby partz. Another inexpensive ESC is the 18A ESC RCX from My RC Mart. I noticed the HK programmable ESC is in stock now. It is actually a Hobby Wing ESC sold by HK. That's why on the cover it says HK HW 20A ESC (PRODUCT ID: HK-SS20A-HW). This is actually an 18A ESC with a burst of 20A like most 18A ESCs. It will work fine. This is my Xcopter. Hope this helps!
Oh.. for a Quadcopter? You kinda need all the power you can get. Whether they say it or not, just about all BL motors were designed to run on 12V. If you are trying to run a micro quad that's different. and you'll need a higher KV rating. For batteries, you should get the highest continuous (C) rating too. I run 40C on mine. It's divided into 4 motors giving 10A per motor. There fore you need as much power (Voltage is the easy way) as you can get to your motors. Use the most efficient motor and prop set up you can. BTW what motor are you running? We can work from there and please re-ask your question in the HK control board area. Give the specs on the motors you have to use and it will be much easier to help you. If I don't have an answer, there are lots of knowledgeable people there that can assist. Take care and happy flying!
Thanks for the offer, but id like to hear from someone who actually used these on a multicopter. Its too hard to tell responsetime from just flicking the throttle stick, it has to have a very rapid response or the quad will be lazy on stabilizing itself.
Point of the RC car story is this. Phisical inertia in blades is high and sudden variations in speed is not possible. Al least not as quickly as in cars. Tires can go from full speed to stop in a second. If an ESC can handle a car, it is really fast enough to handle a simple fixed pith blade. Of course, if you are new to the hobby, I should have take more space to explain...
I think a small GWS prop has less problems spinning up then a lumpy car drivetrain. The point is it has to be fast to respond. The input > output timeframe is known to be sluggish on some HK controllers, but ive only heard it about the bigger sized ones so I was wondering.
The reason why good brushless motors for cars have external position sensors is because ESC often loose sync because of external sudden speed changes. That desn't happen with props since speed changes are commanded, not external. Of course I haven't measured sync pulses in this ESC, but it behaves well. I'm sorry if I was not clear.
Chaosphilipp, I saw the post about them burning up, and want to tell you that I have 4 on the way with 4 5x3 props (CW and CCW) to power 4 C10 2900kv motors on a 2S battery. I've scratch built a micro quad using specs from the Bambucopter after scaling a photo to get the airframe deminsions. I know that this setup works well on a micro Extra 300 I built.. will see how it runs on my ultra light quad. Wish me luck and happy flying!
'course i wish ya all the best, in my case they didn't work.
(As well as the Red Brick ESCs, they didn't burn but tended to drop frames...)
Now i have three SS-8A ESCs here (3 because one burnt), one will fly in my HK Reactor, let's see where to use the other two .
Guess for normal applications these are absolutely okay :)
So, they would cut out on you at inopportune moments? on would just drop? I had that issue with the 10A Red Brick on just about everything. I guess there is a reason they call them bricks.. LOL! Looks like I may have to shop a competitor initials HP for an ESC. They cost more than they do here at HK but at least they have more programming capability and usually arrive within 4 to 5 days.
The Bricks merely drop frames, just as a camera does.
Means the don't cut off completely, just a few ms, enough to make a copter turn over and speed into the grass.
Delivery time is a bonus for more local shops, but if you buy turnigy plush ESCs you'll get a rock solid ESC for quite an acceptable fee.
I believe experience is the best teacher. I have the experience of using these and burned up two motors pretty quickly. Learn from my mistakes and get at least the turnigy plush series (programmable). Any SUPPO will not process the info fast enough.
Ron,and holger,we try to get a vid of the plane flying with the new esc but its quite to fast using 3s we try it several times but we cant get a good view of it..i use the 2s but still it too fast to capture a good view...maybe the plane was too small..sorry...f86 micro..
This ESC will work with 3S battery, but motor may not. You will be increasing the wattage significantly unless you drop back on prop size considerably. If you are after more power, you should also check to see if the motor is capable of handling more.
The above response regarding prop size is not applicable in this instance. The question pertains to a fixed edf fan size for which an alternate diameter "prop" is not an option.
What might be an issue, however is in the amount of blades on the rotor. I believe the PNF comes with two rotors, one being 5 blades and the other being 3 blades. It might be necessary to use the 3 blade rotor to keep the motor from overheating, but possibly not.
So, yes the ESC will operate on three cells w/o issue, and the motor should work fine, especially with the 3 blade rotor.
I stand corrected as to prop size, I didnt realize it was ducted fan. However, increasing voltage by 50% without verifying power handling of the motor is still likely to let the magic smoke out. Using 3 blade instead of 5 blade rotor would have the same effect as a smaller diameter prop, assuming same pitch on both. I suspect the 3 blade has more pitch to increase top speed, and the 5 has less pitch for better thrust at low speeds* both resulting in roughly the same wattage from the motor.
In that case, either rotor could still result in excessive wattage and burned motor.
So, I stand by my recommendation that motor wattage should be verified before chancing the changeover (unless you are willing to replace/upgrade the motor anyway).
I'll defer to your knowledge of this exact setup then.
Only way I've found to post a link is add spaces in it around each word. Do wish HK would allow real links* at least to their own products if they don't want to send people off-site.
If it will fit in your Mig, it should work just fine. My only question would be is the motor in your Mig rated for a 3S? If not, you should look at the micro C10 motor. Not sure what kv rating you are running but the C10 is a 2900kv and is capable of handling 11.1v. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
I need to control a small dc motor with a servo tester,I was told to use this speed controller. The speeds that I need are real slow, will this work and if the speeds are too fast, how can I slow it down?
If it is a DC motor, I believe you will need a Brushed Motor ESC. If the motor only has two wire coming out of it, then it is a brushed motor and you need to get the Brushed motor ESC. And if you have a brushless motor, I believe you can control the speed of the motor by plugging the ESC into where the servo usuaully goes using the JR plug and adjusting the little knob on the servo tester
Wheather your motor is brushed or brushless you can't get a "real slow" speed with either appropriate esc. To do so you need to have a closed loop system. That is the actual motor speed needs to be sensed and fed into your speed control. RC electronic speed controls don't do this. They operate "open loop" with no speed feedback.
You may also want to research 'stepper' motors. Sounds like they might be what you are trying to accomplish. Also, consider gearing a motor down. Ultra-low speed direct motor operation can be a bit unreliable because a little load change can make big differences in RPM.
LLamasbrgarin, If the DC motor is a brushless, this should work fine! However, you should get a low kv motor if you want it to turn real slow. If it is a brushed motor, then you will need a brushed ESC. Hope this helps and Happy fly.. uh.. What ever you're doing! Ha ha!
Yes, that is no problem. This ESC has a integrated BEC ("Voltage Stablelizer") with 5V and 1A output which can be used to power the reciever with your 2S (or 3S) Lipo. ****** German: Ja, dass ist kein Problem. Er kann sogar den Reciever mit 5V und 1A Strom versorgen. Dafür ist ein "Spannungsstabilisierer" (BEC) eingebaut, der auch bei wechselnder Last am Akku 5V liefert.
That depends on which micro RX you mean. If you are referring to the Orange R410, then yes it will. If you are referring to the Orange R415, then you would have to remove the servo plug and replace it with a molex plug. Best to just get the molex leads and solder the wires together. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
NO they can just be **** straight from the factory , i have 6 of these and like you 2 of them blew for no reason , not under throttle , no props on motors , wiring all correct , programmed all correct, sometimes you just have to accept that for cheap prices now and again you will get a dud , there is no point contacting support as they will do nothing.
Alexplose, I truly hope you are not trying to use these ESCs on a multicopter. You can ruin motors, these ESCs, Batteries, and if the bird does become airborne, you can crash it when a motor drops out.
I would try: 1- Cover both ESC with a metal shield (like aluminium foil). So you´ll know that noise is comming form the wires. 2- A separate 5V supply for the receiver. So you'll know noise is not coming form de 5v line. 3- Test both ESC on 2 different channels. So you'll know if noise is coming from the control line. 4- Finally, if noise is finding its way by de ground link, your only choice is to replace one ESC with an opto-isolated ESC. Good luck!
Any other of this ESC is injecting noise, or only one? it may be a defective capacitor. Either way, sometimes 'cheap' means 'problematic', for a quadcopter for instance it's better to use an isolated ESC. Good luck!
Nope. It happens with about 7 other ESCs. I'm going to switch out all the ESCs
111 thumbs up!
Very good controller, specially for this money. With 8A it becomes a little bit warm, no problem. One disadvantage: there is no manual included. (5 Stars with manual!)
With my controller there is no difference in break with the 10pcnt throttle position reported by Frank. Are the different versions?
I have searched in web an i found that the controller is programmable. Possible options: - LIPO-mode (auto selection 2/3 cells) - NIMH-mode - Break on / off
To program this controller you have to move transmitter throttle to full position. Now connect battery to controller. Wait some seconds, than you hear: *peep* - *short pause* - *peep* *pause* *peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep* *pause* *peep*peep*peep* - *short pause* -*peep*peep*peep* *pause* this sequence will repeat...
When you want to use NIHM cells, you have to move throttle to off position when you hear the first *beep*beep*. Than you have to wait for a longer *beeep* and a short *beep*. That's all. You can disconnect battery now.
When you want to select LIPO mode, start from the beginning (throttle full, connect battery, listen to the beeps) At the time when you hear the first single *beep* move throttle to off and wait for *beeep* and *beep*.
When you want to switch Brake On or Off, start from the beginning, then wait for the first *peep*peep*peep* within one sequence and put throttle to off. Wait for *beeep* and *beep*.
Note: When you connect battery and throttle is in off posit
2 comments. Reply..
31 thumbs up!
I don't know if I got a dud or not but this speed controller does not start my motors very well. I tried 8 different outrunner motors and 2 inrunner motors from 5-20 gram size class and most had a very rough start up but once running was OK. It seems to me the motors that had the hardest time on start up had the most magnet cogging and a few of my motors would not start at all. My HexTronik 5gram Brushless Outrunner 2000kv (the least magnet cogging) would start OK but had a tiny rough start. I did not expect much from a $8.00 S.C. but I had to try it. For $15.00 the Turnigy Plush 10amp 9gram Speed controller is the way to go as this has proven to be an excellent performing S.C. that works every bit as good as ones I paid three times for. 04/09/08
3 comments. Reply..
24 thumbs up!
Today received it, according to the customer community this is a suppo 10A http://www.suppomodel.com/.
Not programmable and really easy to use, small and light. But slow down voltage(not cut-off)is too low 8,4 for 3 lipo cells and 5,3 for 2 lipo cells. Manufactures site claim "Auto Low battery Slow down at 3.0V/Lipo, cut-off at 2.9V/Lipo".
3 comments. Reply..
22 thumbs up!
Ik heb enorm veel storing gehad met deze regelaar. Twee gekocht, met allebei storing, ook met verschillende ontvangers. Ook starten sommige motors slecht met deze regelaar.
Voor mij geen super simple regelaars meer!
Ik have a lot of glitches with this ESC. If my plane is more than 5m away from me and the motor is on, the elevator and rudder panic... The start is very rough with some motors.
I can't recommend this ESC.
2 comments. Reply..
20 thumbs up!
Super Regler. Gewicht mit Kabel 7g. Einfach anschließen und losfliegen, zeigt keine Macken. Leider war keine Beschreibung wg. den Einstellungen dabei, deshalb nur 4 Sterne! Ich kann diesen Regler nur weiterempfehlen!