The hex driver for the grub screw is 1 mm The only 1mm I've ever seen is a tiny L shaped one. I cut the shortest part off and put the long part in a pin vice. I'd advise you to completely remove the grub screw if you find the hex driver, cover it in Loctite and screw it back in but DON'T overdo the pressure or it will damage the grub screw. Put as much pressure as you feel is safe. I pulled the motor up a few cm and put a few drops of loctite around the engine mount then let it slide back in. Because it's a tight fit the loctite should hold it in place.
good morning. i bought this motor a long time ago.the HK team suggested me this ESC: T5A-1S but i realize now it works only on 1s. is this correct?
other question: the three wires are all BLACK. how can i recognise red ,black or yellow and connect to ESC??
thank you. Gianluca, Italy
Sorry, I think he means "swap" any TWO wires at random. Just connect any coloured ESC wire to any wire on the motor. If it runs the right way leave it. If it runs the wrong way pick any two wires, it doesn't matter which two and swap them over and the motor runs the opposite way. The reason this happens is because the power is 3 phase from the ESC. It sounds wacky but it's the only way to do it. These motors are designed to run in either direction. You can't hurt anything. JUST DON'T SWAP THE BATTERY END WIRES
ciao - ti rispondo forse in ritardo - questo motore dà* il meglio a 2S, a 1 S è* morto. I colori dei cavi non sono indispensabili: collegali a caso e se gira nel verso sbagliato scambia solo due contatti tra di loro e lascia fermo il terzo. CIAO!
can anyone please tell me if i can use this with 4x4.5 props... if not(in case it gets over heated), can you suggest me a place where i can buy 4x2.5 or 3x3 quad props? HK is out of stock i suppose... thank you in advance :)
5030 props are the best for this motor.....GWS EP Propeller (DD-5030 127x76mm) or 5 x 3 PRODUCT ID: 9332000002 Black and PRODUCT ID: 9332000003 Red There are plenty in stock of black and red but no Orange
i had this motor with
Turnigy nano-tech 300mah 2S 35~70C Lipo Pack
TURNIGY Plush 6A /.8bec/6g Speed Controller
with a small plane it fly great
and my battery goes bad and i put
ZIPPY Flightmax 350mAh 2S 20C
and it fly little distance and
now it didnt fly why is that
problem with this motor or battery ?
ok i am a bit curious why this motor seems to be used with 6A ESC? it says the current draw is 2Amps Max, doesn't it make more sense to use a 3A ESC? i am planning to build a mini quadcopter using 4 of these motors, and i have already bought the 3A ESC (HK-XP3A) aren't these enough?
My guess is that the triblade might be too big... try it and measure the amps and temperature of the motor. If they draw too hight just shorten the propeller and try it again until temperature and amps are in a "normal" range. Btw. I'm using GWS 4025 in my Rc-Airship...
your problem with the 3A ESC will be that it can take 1S only, i.e. it runs on 3,7V. I tried the 3A ESC on this Motor and you get very little thrust out of it. Unless your quad is very light it won't work.
So either get the 6A Plush ESC with 4025 prop. orso and you will get a lot of thurst OR get the hextronik 2g 1S motor, e.g. w/ 3020 blades, and have a much lighter setup, with i'd say 100-120g of thurst. Hope that helps. I'd appreciate your credit..
you can rund it on 1S but you shouldn't - it gives you very little thrust. HK has a huge chouce of 1S Motors, starting with the 2g, which is good and cheap and some heavier more expensive ones which may deliver more thrust. Hope that helps. I'd appreciate your credit..
My one runs solidly with Hobby king 12A ESC and turnigy 2S lipo 138 mAh battery. This ESC seems to be too big and heavy (10g) for this motor. Try some 6g. With GWS DD-5043 (125/110) it has a quite good thrust. I also used GWS 100/65. In this configuration it can run on full throtle for 4 min and on midle throtle for around 10 min.
easy to do. check out powercroco.de for wireing schematic. It is a German website but the schmatics sould work in any language. I did rewire mine 3times already using different wireing setups. very easy to do. just be concentrated on what you do *) and use a marker to be sure what coil you are working on.
I use two 3.7 gram servos, one to drive the strip ailerons and rudder together and the second servo on the elevator. The aircraft is a sticks and tissue own design 28 inch (0.7 m) span, similar to a Cub with no struts. I tried 4.5x4, 5x3 and 5x6 props also. The motor always stays cool. The 5x3 gave 6600rpm and the 5x6 4500rpm. This motor is really for two cell and 5x3 prop and stays cool also with the 5x3.
My plan is just rough drawings. If you let me know how and where I can send pictures. Currently I fly this aircraft now at 100g with 2s 500mah for 40 min flights and better performance. 5x3 prop, 6amp Turnigy Plush ESC. If I go 1s again I shall use a APO3 4000kv, 2g 1s servos and a std 1s ECS in order to save weight.
Hi, I have one on a mini depron f-16, It was working fine with a 2S then I put a 3S and 4" prop on it and it often will screach and the prop will stop and turn slowly backwards... whats wrong? I noticed the bell can move forward and back about 1mm but I doubt that will do much.
I'd strongly discourage running over 2S on a 5x3 prop. The building quality is great, but you shall remember that the bearings are tiny and so are the winding wires.
Yours seems to have broken the bearing and possibly have fried a phase.
It sounds as if the shaft is turning to fast and simply spinning inside the prop. The screech may be the shaft slipping inside the prop bore, trying to turn it but not enough friction. By this time, the inside of the prop bore may be a little larger due to the shaft melting it a little.
Does it do this if you gradually apply throttle in a very clean and concise manner?
If the shaft is spinning so fast that the prop is just balancing on it, then it's possible for it to rotate freely in the
These pricks are ALL OUT of this, gee what a surprise!
And after their Plush 6 ESC burned out the last 2 besides. OH JOY!
No 10 gram motors either... can you say "consumer treadmill", kids?
Designed NOT to last and keep you buying MORE, like a pack
of cigarettes! Rewind it yourself, time consuming but runs
much better and you keep your funds! Use Radio Shack magnet
wire multipack (red) 16 or 18 turns. LATER!
OK, Turingy 1400 INSIDE this site: Thanks for making that clear in your post. I'll try 2 of those and see if that's not a good replacement... Thanks magnus! Too bad SELLER doesn't AUTOMATICALLY LINK to "good substitute" parts on the site... HINT HK! For whatever reason, that Turnigy 1400 NEVER came up on screen when I manually sought a substitute. Otherwise, seller would have had the sale last week.
Hey i am planning to put this little motor in a peanut scale ford trimotor (the Dumas kit) with a 180mAh 2 cell with two 2.5g servos and the 6A turnigy ESC do you thing the plane will work or will it be too heavy?
How much the plane's weight,bro?
In my experience, as long as the plane weighted 60grams max, its ok.
Over 60grams work too but not recommended because the motor seem spinning heavily.
Sorry for no tech data as I am no techie (salute for teh techie thou).
Yes, I have.In the review section you can find it: "I changed one motor to Delta for one cell operating and used FR 130mAh: GWS 3x3 1,3A 10200rpm thrust ~35g GWS 4x2,5 1,6A 9100rpm thrust ~45g. "
That was before the Turnigy 1400 3000kV (idProduct=8491) and Turnigy 1400 4500kV (idProduct=8493) was aviable. It is better to buy one of them then to change this to Delta if you dont know how to do it.
This motor is recommended for the Mini Piaget but the spec for that plane calls for a GWS EP5030 prop but this motor calls for a 4 x 2.5 prop which is better when used on a Mini Piaget? Also, I see that this motor comes with a prop saver but are there any replacement prop savers available I could not find a prop saver on the HobbyCity web site for a 1.5mm shaft?
Yes John you are right there isnt prop saver for shaft 1,5 mm. There you cand find "Prop adapter w/ Alu Cone M3x1.5mm shaft (Grub Screw Type)" but be careful - the clearance can be too big and the propeller can vibrate. There dont exixst colet type, which is better
I am planning a brushless setup for a GWS C-130, this caught my eye. It's great news that prop savers are included with the motor, probably going to use 5030props. Can I ask, if I am going to get bullet connectors for this motor, what diameter is good? I am going to use 3.5mm gold connectors I guess.
I'd certainly avoid the 3.5mm and go for the smallest one you can. I hard wired mine. It simply wasn't worth the trouble of putting connectors on them. I soldered them and slid the heatshrink over them, then rested them to see if they were spinning the right way. Where they were wrong I just swapped two solder joints heated the heatshrink and it was finished. Just treat the wire very carefully. It can be hard to solder due to grease or oil on the strands. I gave them a good s****ing with a knife before soldering as the solder just would stick. Maybe I just got a bad batch.
I always try it with ELE 6A esc and 5030 prop (not the hard ones as APC, kinda the thinner ones). Pusher: 90gram of thrust (2 cell lipo) Front: 70gram of thrust (same battery). I rather confuse about the result, but logically, the front mount setup have smaller thrust because the thrust must passed the motor, the motor mount, the plane body, before giving the fullest thrust. But the pusher did not have to. I use with mini glider weight ranged 90-100 gram with great result. Fly with 3 cell CONFIRMED gave better result and seem better thrust.But havent measure the thrust yet.
This motor does NOT come with a prop adapter. It does come with a prop saver which is not very handy using 3 bladed props. The closest you can get is a 2mm shaft but on measuring the shaft it's actually 1.89 mm which again is very handy. I'f you do find a 2mm adapter make sure it's a collet type and not a grub screw type. The adapter will be out of balance if you use the grub screw type. Very Good Luck
all dimension on millimeters, front to back: - shaft: 6.74 long, 1.47 diameter - shaft to rotor bind: 1.34 long, 3.0 diameter - rotor: 6.55 long, 14.1 diameter - base: 11.37 from end of rotor to firewall, four legs cross (on my unit) 21.0 long, 5.15 wide, 1.3 thick, with four holes of 2.0 diameter, separated by 15.8 mm. - total lenght: 26.0
209 thumbs up!
First the 10g Brushless and now the 5g, great job UH!!! I Use 4 of these in my C130 www.link with the 6A Turnigy controllers. Here are some measured data with various props. with 2S Lipo: GWS 3020 prop. 1 amp. ~38g thrust GWS 3030 prop 1.2 amps, ~44g thrust GWS 4025 prop 11,000 rpm, 1.4 amps, ~53gr thrust GWS 4530 prop 9,000 rpm, 1.6 amps, ~62 gr thrust GWS 4540 prop 1,9 amps, ~65g thrust GWS 5030 prop 8,950 rpm, 1,83 amps, ~76g thrust
12 comments. Reply..
50 thumbs up!
Great little motor. The last i recived was improved with 3mm longer bearing tube and was delivered WITH 1,5mm PROPSAVER!!
Motormount is a little different with 4 "leggs" insted of 3. Data with 2 cell FR 250mAh GWS 4x2,5 1,3A thrust ~50g GWS 4,5x4 1,9A thrust ~65g
I changed one motor to Delta for one cell operating and used FR 130mAh: GWS 3x3 1,3A 10200rpm thrust ~35g GWS 4x2,5 1,6A 9100rpm thrust ~45g.
Some of the motors have slightly wobbly bell...but with the new longer bearing tube and for the low price it is five stars!
1 comment. Reply..
39 thumbs up!
After reading other reviews here I did a series of checks. First, I checked on the windings. I removed the c-clip retainer from the shaft, pulled off the bell assembly and inspected the stator. It did have a few winds that were a little close to the outer limit of the stator but a quick push with my fingernail in between all stator gaps got the windings all snug again. None were hanging out. I just like them snug. The wiring is indeed fragile. Use heatshrink on the terminal end around all the leads to give added strength. I broke one lead at the solder joint just from handling. Also, watch the motor end. It would be easy for the bell to rub against the heatshrink of the lead out wires if it were located incorrectly.
The performance of this motor is great! Smooth startup and running thanks to the 12 pole/16 magnet setup. It is wound ABCABCABCABC. I tested this motor underloaded on 2, 3 and 4 cells (300mah - 20C) and it ran faultlessly on all of them. I also ran it on a 3 cell 400mah 20C underloaded with the same result. Smooth throughout the throttle range. For the price this is a fabulous little motor and you are getting a bargain! My initial order was for two and after testing I now know I can safely order more for my Micro models. :-)
1 comment. Reply..
17 thumbs up!
with a GWS4530 prop on a 300mah 2S lipo the performance was:
9700 rpm, 1.7 amps, 7 volts. The calculated thrust is 66 grams.
very nice, I plan to use three on a Dornier DO 24.
No comments. Reply..
15 thumbs up!
I am very satisfied with this little powerful motor. Though the windings are very sloppy wound there is no weakness at all. I use it with a GWS 3x3 and 2 HXT 180mAh Lipoly Cells. With this setup I measured 44g thrust. Efficiency is very high, current draw low and flight times with the GWS 3x3 HD prop (cheap here at UH!) are around 20 mins with the 180mAh cells. Perfect, no glitches with the TURNIGY 6A 6g ESC! I’m sure you can even go for a GWS 5x3, the motor can handle a lot more than I ask from it, but still the power for my mini-zagi (34cm wingspan) is absolutely sufficient with more static thrust than weight. About to order 2 more. Absolutely recommended value package