hexTronik 5gram Brushless Outrunner 2000kv

 Alan_L 66 points

6030 will overload it on 2s. You might get away with a 5x3 but 6x3 will kill it.

 Tomas 7 points

okay i thought so too. thanks for a good answar!

 waterlogged 2701 points

The hex driver for the grub screw is 1 mm The only 1mm I've ever seen is a tiny L shaped one. I cut the shortest part off and put the long part in a pin vice. I'd advise you to completely remove the grub screw if you find the hex driver, cover it in Loctite and screw it back in but DON'T overdo the pressure or it will damage the grub screw. Put as much pressure as you feel is safe. I pulled the motor up a few cm and put a few drops of loctite around the engine mount then let it slide back in. Because it's a tight fit the loctite should hold it in place.

 waterlogged 2701 points

I run 4 of these motors on a home built mini quad using a 12 amp ESC. You can run them on a six or even a four amp. I only used 12 amps because I just happened to have them in my spares box.

 rubenmoniz 29 points

yes that esc is only for 1s, you don't need colors for the motor wires, if the motor spins in the wrong direction just swap one wire at random and it changes the direction.

 waterlogged 2701 points

Sorry, I think he means "swap" any TWO wires at random. Just connect any coloured ESC wire to any wire on the motor. If it runs the right way leave it. If it runs the wrong way pick any two wires, it doesn't matter which two and swap them over and the motor runs the opposite way. The reason this happens is because the power is 3 phase from the ESC. It sounds wacky but it's the only way to do it. These motors are designed to run in either direction. You can't hurt anything. JUST DON'T SWAP THE BATTERY END WIRES

 vincenzo 8 points

ciao - ti rispondo forse in ritardo - questo motore dà* il meglio a 2S, a 1 S è* morto. I colori dei cavi non sono indispensabili: collegali a caso e se gira nel verso sbagliato scambia solo due contatti tra di loro e lascia fermo il terzo. CIAO!

 waterlogged 2701 points

5030 props are the best for this motor.....GWS EP Propeller (DD-5030 127x76mm) or 5 x 3 PRODUCT ID: 9332000002 Black and PRODUCT ID: 9332000003 Red There are plenty in stock of black and red but no Orange

 __bare 713 points

You can try Sometimes it works / sometimes it doesn't. IF the motors are exactly Identical (ie: the same number of winds on each pole) then is there is high probability it will work.

 John 69 points

Well the idea is to use 2 of these motors.

 djdollar 3 points

Of cause, NO! Every brushless motor must be powered from different ESC.

 waterlogged 2701 points

NO Don't try to run two motors from any ESC. There is a quad ESC which will run 4 motors but it's electronically 4 ESCs built into one unit.

 wellmanite 193 points

why would you need to rewind it? just remember how it was taken apart. Look at the attached file and wrap every third pole as shown...
target=_blank>Y wiring

 Max 21 points

the sugested prop size is 4 x 2.5 not 5 x 3 so if your motor was getting hot in flight (which it probably was) then it is the motor that is broken. i dont know about your battery though

 jsrock3 138 points

whats the shaft size of the motor you are using?

 Terry 4 points

Larger props can be equipped to get greater thrust at the expense of amp draw and heat. I've run this motor with a 5x5 prop on 2s and 6A ESC and while it gets a little warm, it was able to take it.

 Schorhr 222 points

No, but they deliver 24-27g thrust depending on the prop (see the review or the website of der-frickler, use a seachengine to search for DerFrickler 5g)

 e_lm_70 431 points

You dont need to rewind for go 1s 1s with decent size prop is going to work fine without rewind, but just a bit less power then using 2s

 nemoskull 49 points

rewinding is not that hard, tho i am wanting to remove half the magnets or flip half to double the Kv to 4000 ish.

 Vionnet 1051 points

yes but for a little f3p

 PierHenri62 87 points

Ha, Ha! Quite a peanut!

 Srinivas 1 points

this motor is awesome !!!

 NY255 1 points

One more question, do you think this baby can handle a triblade 5040? planning to use that in a mini-quad.

 Thorben 3 points

i think a 3amps esc should work, and i would try a normal gws 5030 for max. thrust

 kitemare 3 points

My guess is that the triblade might be too big... try it and measure the amps and temperature of the motor. If they draw too hight just shorten the propeller and try it again until temperature and amps are in a "normal" range. Btw. I'm using GWS 4025 in my Rc-Airship...

 hotsam 250 points

Hi NY255, your problem with the 3A ESC will be that it can take 1S only, i.e. it runs on 3,7V. I tried the 3A ESC on this Motor and you get very little thrust out of it. Unless your quad is very light it won't work. So either get the 6A Plush ESC with 4025 prop. orso and you will get a lot of thurst OR get the hextronik 2g 1S motor, e.g. w/ 3020 blades, and have a much lighter setup, with i'd say 100-120g of thurst. Hope that helps. I'd appreciate your credit..

 jrpalma 5 points

como `poder puede pero con 2s es la suya pruebalo

 Hman :) 57 points

No, best with 2cell :)

 GoldTiger 1 points

They can get ful thrust only with 2s battery soo 1s is not recomend here :)

 hotsam 250 points

Hi Vindfrisk, you can rund it on 1S but you shouldn't - it gives you very little thrust. HK has a huge chouce of 1S Motors, starting with the 2g, which is good and cheap and some heavier more expensive ones which may deliver more thrust. Hope that helps. I'd appreciate your credit..

 Doug 98 points

anyone tried 3 cell with a smaller prop? Will get higher RPM and might might be more efficient?

 flaviohpo 22 points

2mm diameter for screws.

 GoldTiger 1 points

Its 2mm diammeter :)

 boingk 257 points

Propellor data with 6A Turnigy ESC and 2-cell lipo battery pack (180mAh to 350mAh).

GWS 3020 prop. 1 amp. ~38g thrust
GWS 3030 prop 1.2 amps, ~44g thrust
GWS 4025 prop 11,000 rpm, 1.4 amps, ~53gr thrust
GWS 4530 prop 9,000 rpm, 1.6 amps, ~62 gr thrust
GWS 4540 prop 1,9 amps, ~65g thrust
GWS 5030 prop 8,950 rpm, 1,83 amps, ~76g thrust

Cheers - boingk

 Bernd 8 points

GWS 3020

 Jojo_svk 8 points

My one runs solidly with Hobby king 12A ESC and turnigy 2S lipo 138 mAh battery. This ESC seems to be too big and heavy (10g) for this motor. Try some 6g. With GWS DD-5043 (125/110) it has a quite good thrust. I also used GWS 100/65. In this configuration it can run on full throtle for 4 min and on midle throtle for around 10 min.

 __tx_4 50 points

micro ucak ebatlari nedir agirlik nedir

 temudshin 149 points

easy to do. check out powercroco.de for wireing schematic. It is a German website but the schmatics sould work in any language. I did rewire mine 3times already using different wireing setups. very easy to do. just be concentrated on what you do *) and use a marker to be sure what coil you are working on.

 GooberSB 24 points

Hello. I tried a 1S 400mah and the motor wouldn't respond. I don't think it works at that low voltage.

 johan 9 points

I used 1s 450 mah with the 5amp Turnigy ESC that has the Volt step up BEC. Used the GWS 5x4.3 prop on a 65g model. It works well and got 20 mins out of it.

 d_r_dan_c 15 points

Can this ESC handle 2 servos as well? Would you mind sharing the details of your model?

 johan 9 points

I use two 3.7 gram servos, one to drive the strip ailerons and rudder together and the second servo on the elevator. The aircraft is a sticks and tissue own design 28 inch (0.7 m) span, similar to a Cub with no struts. I tried 4.5x4, 5x3 and 5x6 props also. The motor always stays cool. The 5x3 gave 6600rpm and the 5x6 4500rpm. This motor is really for two cell and 5x3 prop and stays cool also with the 5x3.

 d_r_dan_c 15 points

Johan - thanks, could you post your plan and/or photos in the forums? I tried unsuccessfully to build a similar plane, and it was very hard to control. What are you using for hinges?

 johan 9 points

My plan is just rough drawings. If you let me know how and where I can send pictures. Currently I fly this aircraft now at 100g with 2s 500mah for 40 min flights and better performance. 5x3 prop, 6amp Turnigy Plush ESC. If I go 1s again I shall use a APO3 4000kv, 2g 1s servos and a std 1s ECS in order to save weight.

 d_r_dan_c 15 points

Try posting your pictures and plans (photos of drawings) to Forum Home Forum Home > Product Specific > Airplanes > Plans & Designs : www.link I'm sure they will be appreciated by many.

 d_r_dan_c 15 points

h t t p://w w w.hobby king****/hobby king/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=47

 johan 9 points

I used Tower Hobby's MicroLite film to cover the plane and make the hinges. Here is a similar model to what I made and this is a www.link

 d_r_dan_c 15 points

Your link got scrambled. Could you repost it with spaces (see above)?

 Bernie 5 points

If the motor didn*t run when using a 1s battery were you using a 1s ESC? I would like to set up a 1s system and hope this motor will do

 H-KING_SCOTT 5161 points

3s is too much

 Keith 231 points

Really? Some People are talking about theirs running on 4S, it also doesn't get hot...

 flyinblind 16 points

Sounds like the bearings are coming apart. These motors should only run 2s lipos and no more than a 5x3 prop.

 Artikbot 14 points

I'd strongly discourage running over 2S on a 5x3 prop. The building quality is great, but you shall remember that the bearings are tiny and so are the winding wires. Yours seems to have broken the bearing and possibly have fried a phase.

 Jose Luis 8 points

Poner solo 2 lipo.

 Werner 10 points

Sorry but 3S are too much for this engine!!! Ive the same problem 2 weeks ago...*)

 GooberSB 24 points

It sounds as if the shaft is turning to fast and simply spinning inside the prop. The screech may be the shaft slipping inside the prop bore, trying to turn it but not enough friction. By this time, the inside of the prop bore may be a little larger due to the shaft melting it a little. Does it do this if you gradually apply throttle in a very clean and concise manner? If the shaft is spinning so fast that the prop is just balancing on it, then it's possible for it to rotate freely in the

 d_r_dan_c 15 points

I ran it on a 2s Zippy Flightmax 180 mAh, and it worked fine until I broke a wire...

 magnusEl 1215 points

Stop whining and do a search for Turnigy 1400.

 Aero_eBook 381 points

NOBODY has the damn things, thanks to people buying SIX at a time.

 Aero_eBook 381 points

OK, Turingy 1400 INSIDE this site: Thanks for making that clear in your post. I'll try 2 of those and see if that's not a good replacement... Thanks magnus! Too bad SELLER doesn't AUTOMATICALLY LINK to "good substitute" parts on the site... HINT HK! For whatever reason, that Turnigy 1400 NEVER came up on screen when I manually sought a substitute. Otherwise, seller would have had the sale last week.

 ishady 340 points

How much the plane's weight,bro? In my experience, as long as the plane weighted 60grams max, its ok. Over 60grams work too but not recommended because the motor seem spinning heavily. Sorry for no tech data as I am no techie (salute for teh techie thou).

 Ben-ya-min 35 points

i have not completed the model yet but i think i am going to use gear out of a parkzone Vapor thanks anyway

 garett 1763 points

I put this motor on cessna Nataku from here when stock motor has burned. Without LG I've got AUW with ZF 180mah battery 75g and it flies perfect. Great little motor !

 magnusEl 1215 points

Yes, I have.In the review section you can find it:
"I changed one motor to Delta for one cell operating and used FR 130mAh:
GWS 3x3 1,3A 10200rpm thrust ~35g
GWS 4x2,5 1,6A 9100rpm thrust ~45g.
"

That was before the Turnigy 1400 3000kV (idProduct=8491)
and Turnigy 1400 4500kV (idProduct=8493) was aviable.
It is better to buy one of them then to change this to Delta if you dont know how to do it.

 Ramir 715 points

Yes John you are right there isnt prop saver for shaft 1,5 mm. There you cand find "Prop adapter w/ Alu Cone M3x1.5mm shaft (Grub Screw Type)" but be careful - the clearance can be too big and the propeller can vibrate. There dont exixst colet type, which is better

 nitro 158 points

the 4 times 2.5 prop is what i recomend for the motor have fun

 __Coyo 96 points

oops.. sorry, missing link (plz delete spaces):
h t t p ://w w w .hobbyking. c o m /hobbycity/store/uploads/799191799X2271X18.JPG

 __Coyo 96 points

I think 0.8mm gold connector will be good enough for www.link

 waterlogged 2701 points

I'd certainly avoid the 3.5mm and go for the smallest one you can. I hard wired mine. It simply wasn't worth the trouble of putting connectors on them. I soldered them and slid the heatshrink over them, then rested them to see if they were spinning the right way. Where they were wrong I just swapped two solder joints heated the heatshrink and it was finished. Just treat the wire very carefully. It can be hard to solder due to grease or oil on the strands. I gave them a good s****ing with a knife before soldering as the solder just would stick. Maybe I just got a bad batch.

 Paul 15 points

it comes with an adpator

 waterlogged 2701 points

This motor does NOT come with a prop adapter. It does come with a prop saver which is not very handy using 3 bladed props. The closest you can get is a 2mm shaft but on measuring the shaft it's actually 1.89 mm which again is very handy. I'f you do find a 2mm adapter make sure it's a collet type and not a grub screw type. The adapter will be out of balance if you use the grub screw type. Very Good Luck

 tronchaviones 824 points

all dimension on millimeters, front to back:
- shaft: 6.74 long, 1.47 diameter
- shaft to rotor bind: 1.34 long, 3.0 diameter
- rotor: 6.55 long, 14.1 diameter
- base: 11.37 from end of rotor to firewall, four legs cross (on my unit) 21.0 long, 5.15 wide, 1.3 thick, with four holes of 2.0 diameter, separated by 15.8 mm.
- total lenght: 26.0