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The Plush series Turnigy ESC's offer outstanding performance, fast sync timing to accomodate a broad range of motors and MosFET's made in the USA for ultra reliability!
User Programmable, both via controller and optional programming card. The programming card is an excellent item as it instantly tells the user the current settings and with a few simple clicks of the buttons, the user can change the settings and have graphical reassurance of those changes. The programming card is an excellent Item and simple to use!
BEC = Battery Elimination Circuit ... this means you don't need an additional battery for power the RX and Servos on the 5V servo line. For control the motor you need a battery, plus a RX, or at least a servo tester ...
There is no need on these type of ESC.
A lot of work have been done over the ATmega8 based ESC, but this has a different CPU inside. If you like to flash ESC, take the cheap F20A
I disagree. There is a noticeable difference in multi rotor stability when you flash plush ESCs. The newer models with Silab chips can be flashed with BLHeli firmware (similar to SimonK) - check out tutorial here: ***********olliw.eu/2012/owsilprog-tutorials/
And for battery, go for a Turnigy 800mAh 2s 20c battery, it should give you 5 to 8 minutes of fun flight.
And i hope you know, you will need a charger...
Also depending on what motor you are using you might need to order some bullet connectors as well. If your battery has a jst, then yes go with jst connectors but if it has a xt60, then pick up a set of those instead, and of coures, as saba said, happy flying.
hey, i built a quadcopter and it works fine, i have a problem, one of my ESC appear to be crushed, when it starts with a motor connected, it sounds 4 times with "beep beep beep beep... beep" when before was just "beep bep beep ... beep" the PWM signal that i use dont move the motor, the other 3 motors works correctly, what should i do???
try switching the ESC from a working motor to see if that motor is bad. If the Motor runs properly then get a new ESC. From your description, I expect your ESC is no good. Check to see if it's under warrantly with HK. Have fun :)
The Futaba style connector is supplied with the ESC.
For the power connector, i recommend you to put the gold 4mm connectors.
And for the motor connector, you can put 3.5mm gold connector (polymax are good)
It could work, but its doubtful how log it will last. These ESCs are meant to have a good air flow around them, to cool them down. The crawler... well... craws so it will not be creating the necessary cooling.
i was using the below motor with it how i can now if it compatable with ESC ???
D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor
Specs:
Rpm/V: 2200kv
Shaft: 3.17mm
Voltage: 2S~3S (7.4v to 11.1v)
Weight: 50g
Watts: 342w
Max Current: 34A
ESC: 40A
Suggested Prop: 7x4(2S) ~ 5x5 (3S)
Mounting Hole Bolt Circle: 16mm or 19mm
PRODUCT ID: D2826-62200
The motor is rated at 34 amps, and the SUGGESTED ESC is 40 amps, yet you are trying to use it on an ESC that can supply only half (18 amps) as much power. You will burn it pretty quick. For that motor you should get a 40 amp ESC, and in the future you should be careful about those things, because if the ESC gives up in flight you can crash your plane.
Amperage draw depends entirely on you setup BATTERY PROP MOTOR, so You can't really tell just from the motor specs. Nonetheless, motors are designed for specific uses, and to spin props of a specified range, and in your case, that motor is made to spin 7x4 props at 2S which will draw 40A max, so in that case you can use this ESC as it is 18a. Good luck.
Mena, the last couple of things that you said, MAKE NO SENSE IN REAL LIFE!!!!!!!! OMG, if the motor DRAWS 30amps and the ESC can ONLY provide 18, HOW did you decide this combination would work for longer than a couple of minutes????????????? Read through the Reviews section of the motor, people are using the motor with 40/50amp ESCs, and test show that on 2S with a 7x4 prop it draws 30amps, so THIS 18amp ESC would be fried pretty quickly with the above mentioned motor.
Sorry for the last reply , I read the question wrong. The esc built in bec works fine ,30 flight on tricopter and no problems. Hope this makes you feel better.
You don't need to eliminate any wires on your servo leads to power the kk2 :/... I, and a ton other people fly this way. It only means that your kk2 and tail servo will have more power available which they wont use, and thats just fine.
how much current does this output for each PWM input below?
5% duty cycle = ?A
10% duty cycle = ?A
15% duty cycle = ?A
20% duty cycle = ?A
fast and detailed answer will be rewarded!
As far as my knowledge goes, (brushless) ESCs don't work is such a way. They work by alternating the output between each circuit to polarize the motor at calculated intervals to make it spin. The higher the switch rate, they faster is spins. So in that line of though, the motor receives full voltage at time intervals, just as a PWM signal. That being said, the amp draw depends entirely on your motor/prop/battery configuration. ESCs dont "push" or "output" power to the motor, it only supplies what the motor "asks". Hope that helps.
To be more precise, 5g servos draw around 125a stalled (no input), so you can run 5 of these no problem with 2A. BUT, on the other hand, servos draw more current when moving, so if ALL 5 of them are moving at the same time, you could still overpower the BEC, more ir one of the servos get stuck, it peaks the amp draw a lot. I use 3-4 servo setups with 1A escs all the time on airplanes without issue, but this is just something to have in mind.
Warning... You cannot flash these ESCs. They recently changed design and cannot be flashed (for instance with SimonK firmware) as the earlier chips could.
OK, to clarify: Old 18A Plush ESC are Atmega MCU and SimonK FW can be flashed. New 18A Plush are SiLabs MCU. The new SiLabs version is not compatible with the SimonK firmware, although I believe there is an alternative BLHeli FW that can be used.
Aren't these the older versions?3.1 was replaced by version 4.0,the other Plush 18amp I think is version 4?
Does anyone know the difference of the 2 different versions Plush 18 ESC that HK is listing?
The wires are a bit thick to try and crimp the JST on them, but you could solder 3.5mm or 2mm bullet connectors to the ESC, and then make a connector with the bullet connectors on one side and the female JST on the other. :)
The easiest way it so buy pre-wired JST connectors and solder it (with a soldering iron) to the ESC wires, there are many videos on it on YouTube. You could also buy bare JST connector too which you have to crimp on to the wires and it's a little bit harder but cheaper. Just be sure to use the opposite connector of what you have on your batteries.
No viene con ningun conector, al igual que la mayoria de los ESC. Estan pensados para que les pongas tu preferencia de conector. Tampoco traer para la bateria. Yo uso lo de 3.5mm sin ningun problema.
No ESC comes with battery leads, that's true for almost all ESCs on HK. ESCs are sold with bare battery cables (color coded), so you can add the connectors that best suit you. Besides, micro deans are too small for a 18amp esc.
It seems you have some kind of micromodel. This ESC is intended for bigger motors which draw 18amps. Hobby King have other lighter options that will suit you best, just decide on what Prop and Battery you'll use, and check the Amp draw for that. Good luck. (Doesn't work with micro T, too small)
where is the difference between the speedcontroller HK-SS20A-HW of the mainsection speedcontroller and this controller TR_P18A of the subsection speedcontroller in the mainsection multicopter
Different brands of ESC have different features and different limits. How they are programed and what may be programed on them. I only by Turnigy Plush ESC and have the programing card for them. I like the features and capabilities. I stick with that one brand when ever possible. Look under files for PDF files for each brand to gain exact differences, I suggest you pick one brand and stick with it to simplify your hobby career.
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
Shawn Anderson
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
18 thumbs up!
This is a great speed controller. It's very smooth and dead reliable. It came out at 23 grams on my scale with no connectors. I highly recommend this ESC but also recommend buying the optional programming card that goes with it. You'll get a lot more functionality out of it that way and save yourself the aggrevation of trying to program it with your TX.
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Rodney Shepherd
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
8 thumbs up!
Excelent ESC, aceleration is very smooth, you only need to setup the trottle adjustment from you radio control end works very lineal......Great esc
No comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Sal
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
6 thumbs up!
Nice ESC, and very smooth. It works well on my micro heli. Lots of features too. It's got a decent amount of flight time on it now and has performed great. The card makes programming really easy and if your like me you'll want the card too so you can see your changes.
No comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Stefan Weßels
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
5 thumbs up!
A very reliable BESC, especially for the price. No behavior differences to my Jeti Advance 18 plus. You should buy the programming card, too. Dont forget to adjust the throttle range!
Ein sehr guter Steller, speziell für den Preis. Die Programmierkarte sollte mitbestellt werden. Ich kann keine Verhaltensunterschiede im Vergleich mit meinem Jeti Advance 18 pus feststellen. Nicht vergessen den Weg des Gaskanals einzulernen!
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
TrysTo3D
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
5 thumbs up!
Bought this ESC and the programming box. Both work great. Have flown several flights with it on a foamy using a park 370 out runner and works as well as a more expensive ESC. Programming box is simple and convenient to use.
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