Plush 10A Brushless Speed Controller The Plush series of ESC are a very good quality controller with a broad range of programming features and smooth throttle response compared to other BESCs in the same price range. These escs have linear throttle curve and can handle 10A continuously.
Cont Current: 10A Burst Current: 12A BEC Mode: Linear BEC : 5v / 2A Lipo Cells: 2-4 NiMH : 5-12 Weight: 9g Size: 27x17x6mm User Programmable, both via controller and optional programming card. The programming card is an excellent item as it instantly tells the user the current settings and with a few simple clicks of the buttons, the user can change the settings and have graphical reassurance of those changes. The programming card is an excellent item and simple to use! Much better than Jeti or similar programming cards.
Are these ESC's ok to use with my 2208 motors........cant find any specs on my storm quadcopter escs other than they came with 10amp from Helipal. I know it sounds like a "like for like" question but I purchased 4 of these and they seem quiet small plus looking up a lot of the specs for 2208 motors they generally recommend 12 to 30amp escs.....hopefully someone can help (maybe I should have just purchased 18amps units)
Andy thanks for the reply. The motors are off a storm Quad from Helipal.... all I can find on these motors are that they are as below.
The only markings on the motors are M2208 & under that is 3S.
STORM Drone FF Specification :
Dimension : 490mm x 490mm x 140mm
Motor to Motor : 450mm
Rotor Size : 9" X 4.7" (Clockwise and Counter Clockwise)
Take-off weight : 850g (Max safety 1350g)
Motor : 2208 Brushless Motor
ESC : 10A with BEC
Battery : 11.1V 2200mah 20C (8-12 minutes flight time)
Gyro: FF Gyro (FF version is for stability, KK version is crazy fast)
Hope that helps & as you can see I chose these 10ampers as the storm used 10amps units.
I have thr TGY program card as I am also running TGY 18amps with my KK2.0 board & that unit is worth every cent.. Did you find some specs on the M2208 motor or did you just go off the info as I can not find details on these motots. Thanks again.
Tony, based on your description of the size of the motor and the prop, the one number is the diameter and the second is the depth (per se) of the motor. That's what i used with some common sense and experience with similar motors. For an absolute answer you can get a watt meter for about $40.00 that answers all your questions for this and many more to come. I have my eye on Watt Meter PRODUCT ID: WU100-B for myself. I know I need one. If I'm reading that correctly, that is the total amps for all 4 ESC together the way that board works. That would mean your individual ESC's are a little over 4amps way safe and cool temperature. Making the 10 an Escellent choice. Not acctually having seen the setup, from what you have told me, I think you have a great arrangement with plenty of capacity to spare. Capacity to spare equals cool electronics and fewer repairs. Have fun I hope it flys GREAT!
Thank you for your reply. My new QC is based on my storm QC as now I have 3 of them all with storm motors, frame and battery as I didnt want to re-invent the wheel trying to match motors to escs to batteries plus all my parts are interchangable from 1 supplier. so with this QC I am running the multiwii Pro board and it recommends in the sketch that you can run a TGY 10amp (thats why I chose them) but they looked rater small so I thought I would ask rather than wishing I had have asked. Thanks again.
Tony, I used 4 of these on my carbon quad for my UFO. They are powering 4 - FC 28-05 2840kv motors. Plenty of power and was the original driveline for my UFO. I liked the quad by itself better and built a permanent frame for the UFO.
Got this one. But have problem. The 1811-2000 spins slowly. I try diffrenet batteries but there is no rusult. I check voltage between 2 wires at motor exit, and there is only 1V, when thourtle is maximum up. What can be the problem?
It seems not esc problem, i was try another one but have same situation:( I have only 70-80g trust on 1811-2000 at maximum thoutle up. I was try another timing options and there is no result. Maybe something with transmitter?
Got a new ESC, and nothing working. Plug in battery and no sound (not even self check and battery cell count). Checked connections and I definitely have 8.4V on ESC terminals (and receiver is powered). When I try to open throttle I get some stuttering movement on motor, but no rotation. Any ideas??
Tako, the motor has 3 wires going to it, changing any 2 of them will reverse the motor. If only 2 wires work the motor will stutter or just chatter and not rotate. This sounds like your problem. Good luck.
Changed out motor with new to make sure, and still exactly the same. Definitely have good battery connections and motor connection, and no life other than the shudder...sounds busted to me (brand new out the box)
Oops - my bad. Had another go and resoldered the motor connections to be doubly sure and.......beep beep all good. Dry solder joints I suspect. And for those out there who are wondering - no they dont beep when the motor connections are bad!
1. Using this ESC, my motor with prop-saver and propeller will turn extremely slowly. If I remove the propeller from the prop-saver, the ESC and motor seems to work normally. Any idea why ?
2. My ESC does not emit any sound (beep). But as described above, it works when I remove the propeller.
Do you think my ESC has a failure or am I doing something wrong?
For info, I use a 2S lipo battery and a 10g BL motor.
Using this ESC my motor hesitates to turn at any throttle range, at start the motor begins to turn but then hesitates to turn between CC and CCW rotation.
I followed the throttle range set-up procedure and reset the ESC settings in the programming menu but nothing wokred.
Could my ESC be busted?
Does it beep properly when you turn it on, 2 for a 2 cell battery and 3 times for a 3 cell. I suspect there is a broken wire at the motor causing the ESC to be trying to run the motor on 2 wires instead of the required, 3. Try it with another motor and see what happens. If that doesn't work then the ESC is probably fried and time for a new one.
There are no connecttors included. Connectors to motor are included mostly with motors, connectors to battery depends on your battery-connections-system, so you have to buy it your own. HK can not know what system you are using.
It should be fine straight out of the box. It is nice though to have the BESC programming card for the Plush escs. It's super easy to use and allows you to adjust settings to best suit your purpose, or just to check what the factory settings are for reference purposes.
These new Turnigy have the Silicon Labs chip in them and not the Atmel8, so if you wanted to flash the firmware w/ SimonK third party ESC firmware (more linear throttle response, other nice options only a custom firmware can give you) you are out of luck.
mine will not start up properly, the motor just turns around really slow and noisy. If I spin it by hand it then works fine until I stop? I have tried different timings and calibrating throttle range and soft start :(
I guess it is faulty? or just does not like the motor? I am using it on a bw 1300 with 2s 9x4.7 prop.
I tried a 3s and it is better, but needs at least half throttle to start properly.
The problem with stuttering motor start often is caused by bad connectors between ESC and motor. Did you check the contacts? Perhaps it may help to bend the small contact springs to improve the connection...
You need both to fly a reciever and ESC.The Orange seem to have the least problems. This only has a 1amp/BEC so using it with DSM2,I'd advise against it.The specs above say 2amp/BEC but the new version 4 now only has a 1amp/BEC rating. DSM2's recievers are well know for low-voltage brown-outs.To prevent brown-outs try to use an ESC with at least a 2amp/BEC rating.
Mine is working well, and they were rated well when I did my research. As with any controller, stay within it's ratings to extend it's life. - Us in systems that will draw up to 80pcnt of max, so 8 amps or less. - BEC has to dissipate more power/heat when used with higher voltages - so if you are running 3 or 4s, you will not be able to run as many servos as someone running 2s. - Provide for some cooling air. Remember these heat up less when run at full throttle (less switching = less heat.)
The method using the transmitter is a bit complicated and takes time. You can find a programming card on this site: article "TR_PC". Cheap, VERY easy in use and VERY quick programming of your ESC and other Turnigy's, ...
absolutly NO.With brushless controlers you generate current waves going alternatively on every coils of the motor. That give the speed control of the motor. Two controlers can never generate those waves exactly at the same time (microseconds)
It has standard plug that fits any brand of receivers: Futaba, JR, Hitec, Spectrum(standard size, not micro JST ones).
I think they are modelled on JR plugs. To reassure you - they will fit into any normal receiver.
i understand that the esc has a standard plug to go into the reciever.So it should plug right into this reciever?
Turnigy 9X 2.4GHz 8Ch Receiver (V2)
I want to know what kind of plug it has for attaching to the battery, the battery i am looking at this battery
Turnigy 500mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack
will everything hook right up?
This ESC has bare wires for both motor and batery.
You have to provide your own conectors and solder them yourself! Again, for both motor and battery! I prefer to desolder motor wires from this controller and solder motor wires directly to ESC.
Hi guys, what connectors do you use for these size of esc's? connect it to a turnigy 2205/1500kv which comes with 3.5mm bullets. find those a bit big... and on battery side? i mean it's 20awg which fits nicely into the jst which are also on the battery side but they are rated only up to 3A. Is there anything good between 3.5mm bullet and jst?
Between ESC and motor is always the best to solder... I do not know, where you found out, that JST are rated only to 3A. If they really are, then they could handle a lot more. Mine do handle 7A constantly.
I fly all my indoor foamies, including those mean 3D ones with 12A draw with custom soldered lipos for couple of years now using typical servo plugs and pin arrays as batt/esc connection - no issues at all. Some tell a lot of BS about heating, losses etc, I just fly them hard... :D So, I guess anything will do. The question is how "purist" you are. Here on HK in Wire/plug section are some good two pole prewired www.link For the motor/esc - I just solder motor wires directly to ESC. I mean, if you dislike the 3,5mm bullets for being heavy - just ditch them! and wires from the esc too, if motor is close enough.
I use enamel coated wire and solder straight from the ESC board to the motor.. Very good setup and guarantees good clean current to the motor and no connectors to lose connection .. Its a bit overkill but I like doing it this way !! Stranded wire has too much resistance for these small motors..
Control caught fire upon hooking it up to a 11.1v 500mah lipo. Wouldn't you know it burst into flames. The shipping to send it back would cost more than buying a new controller. Crap.......
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13 thumbs up!
This is a great ESC, but it only last about 4 flights working OK, then it failed with more than a 3 Amp load, it cut-off, this is working with a 2s lipo pack that have verify its charged and failure its constant, when power drawn its more than 3 amps it cutoffs, also i have verify voltaje and its steady at 8.0 volts and lipo detection its of 2 cells. Maybe bad luck of defective unit.