Plush 25 Brushless Speed Controller The Plush series ESC are a very good quality controller. They have a broad range of programming features and a smooth throttle response compared to other BESCs in the same price range.
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User Programmable, both via controller and optional programming card. The programming card is an excellent item as it instantly tells the user the current settings and with a few simple clicks of the buttons, the user can change the settings and have graphical reassurance of those changes. The programming card is an excellent Item and simple to use!
Is the third time this happens to me.
The first 2 had a crash because the back motor (i think is the ESC) failed.
Now going slower and filming it so you can provide comments.
Basically test the propellers are pushing up, right/left, forward/backward, no weeds attached.
Still half way of the take off, the rear ESC fails.
I tried without propellers and i can go full range without problems.
Moved wires but everything seems right.
For me seems to be a faulty ESC but while i receive a new one, do you have some other ideas?
Or some kind of feature tu cut when the power is not enough...
HobbyKing tricopter X900
TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack
HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V2.1 (Atmega168PA)
yeah, tried that, I have the latest firmware and calibrated the ESCs several times (though i'm not confident that it went right).
In the video I have the following battery.
ZIPPY Flightmax 4000mAh 2S1P 40C
could be that 2S does not work?
Bc i changed to a 3S and at least i could lift off. Still the back motor is "lazy" (starts late) but eventually gets compensated.
I'll further try in a bigger space now that i can lift off. But still i dont have confidence on it
You haven't stated what motors you are using, for that is pretty much one of THE most important parts on a copter... If your motor is not capable of running off a 2S, then you're over exerting your battery by trying to power three of these. and if that is the case, since the rear motor assumingly has longer connections to reach the battery, it'll be the 'last in line' to get power, and thus cuts off. 2S is really not something you want to use when trying to fly a multicopter that size... it makes it INSANELY under powered.
Thanks Chad, since I bought the motors in another place, I forgot to list them.
I can check when I'm back home, but after testing all combinations of ports, escs and motors, the motor was the one failing. I doubt that is some of the reasons that you put here, 3 exact same motors (the other 2 are running well and have run well), about the same length wiring and changed the battery to a 3S to rule that out.
It might be in some of the falls, one phase or some colis of the motor has been damaged, you see at the beginning that the motor jerks... that looks like a phase or coil is not giving its power. then in the high power, not everyone is pushing the same thus requires more power and the ESC cuts.
For now, I've ordered another motor, and I'll now when i receive them and install them.
Thanks for your help.
Sorry if I missunderstand this a bit, but did you say that it was always the 'same' motor that failed each time regardless of the ESC? or am i just miss reading that completely lol. But, your idea about the phase being off does sound logical. If only 2 of the phases are working with the ESC, then the motor wouldn't get the full force needed, and thus make the ESC work harder. Lemme know how things turn out, am quite interested =D
yes, i guess that i thought the motor was indestructible, or at least to fail electronically and not physically.
before i was testing on real flight
output 3===>ESC A ===> rear motor
output 3===>ESC B ===> rear motor
and always flew for 30 seconds (yes it flew) then failed and fall, luckily not that high but i broke some parts. I guess that the ESC compensated the lack of power until it was enough.
now after 3 crashes, I said, I'll keep the tricopter on the ground, no more crashes.
And did the combinations:
output 1 to 3===>ESC B ===> rear motor
output 1 to 3===>ESC B ===> side motor
Then it became obvious when the rear motor always failed... keep in mind that is my first tricopter and apparently I'm too optimistic :)
I'll know for sure when I get the new motor, but I think this is the case.
Side note: I've read several places how to do a "systems" test, right is right, left is left, etc. but i never seen that a test like the one I've done, full power but still on the ground. because in my very particular case, the systems test passed fine (everything was good if there was no power involved) but then on flight that is when it happened... something to consider for the experts :)
keep you posted once i test with the new motor and the ESC is free of accusations :)
Well at least you were able to figure things out =D my experience so far with my first tricopter, is i had my front left esc flat out "explode" on me. Threw sparks everywhere and smoked that horrible blue smoke. Ended up melting the sheets on my bed. So as a small note: if your esc is failing, it WILL get hot and WILL cause a fire if quick action is not taken. I was merely calibrating my throttle input for the esc, and "poof".
Well, just to close this issue, it was not the motor, but the wiring.
Is not because the drop on the voltage because of the resistance of them, but because it's inductance.
There is a thorough explanation here: www.link all an specially they guy that posted on the youtube video pointing me this way.
On the plus side, I have a motor and esc pair for replacements. I have the video, but is behaving as it should.
Just want to chime in about esc size. NEVER GO TO SMALL. Are you will learn the hard way....temperature is the grim reaper for ALL electronics from tvs to laptops and yes even the esc. I have had so much luck with the plush line of esc it's all I will buy unless I'm forced to buy another because of low inventory. But over all all my hk esc buys have given me good service. But 2 small will give you a hot electronics and bad results. Me? I have a bunch of different sizes I have bought over time and I run the largest esc room and wieght will allow. I have a ******** p51 that came with a 18 amp esc in front of a 480 size motor. I installed the motor on a edge 540 with a 40 amp esc and.man did the plane move! This tells me.from a user's stand point a bit bigger a bit more power. But the 18 amp esc may have been holding the 480 back also. Regardless my electronics always run cool and don't burn up. And if room and wieght is a issue 15 percent is a great guide line to go by but imo as Tim Allen would say grunt grunt grone bigger BIGGER BETTER LOL. . Always try to have a small amount of airflow through the battery esc compartment
Is this esc to big for a hex Tronik 24gram Brushless Outrunner 1300kv ? I am scratch building and I am looking at using this esc, so that when I wan't to slap on a bigger motor I can! *) ( If you can't already tell I am very cheap ! ) ( I just don't want to over do it!)
Check the max current on the motor, this could be to large for the motor, like the other guys said its not bad having to large of an esc, however you can reduce size and weight going with a smaller ESC, if flight time and efficiency is something you're looking for
It's an ESC it does it's job. Very easy to solder connectors. would buy again.
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Interesting that this esc is listed as 25a. Most esc's list their max current....ie, should be listed as a 35a esc. Just purchased one for a turnigy 2217, 23a outrunner....we will see.
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These are all around good ESC's. It's all I've ever used. Programming is easy and it'll do what you want with the system you have. They seem to run cool enough and they're pretty light for foamies.
I've popped two due to bad motors. I guess I can't blame the ESC for that and since the ESC is reasonable cost it didn't break me so I guess it's all good. It would be nice if they would shut down on overcurrent though.