This genius tool makes flashing the Atmel Atmega MCU found in many ESCs or other devices using Atmega processors a walk in the park. No need to solder or create cumbersome clip on devices, simply connect the socket flashing tool to a USBasp AVR device and place the socket over the exposed Atmel MCU!
Unique and exclusive to Hobbyking this handy device will become a favorite in your DIY arsenal.
Features: High point precision. Wide range of applications. Quick and easy, no soldering required.
Specifications: Pointing accuracy : ± 0.05 mm Spring force: [ ±20%] 17.0g(0.593oz) at initial travel 40.0g(1.418oz) at 1.70mm(0.0669) recommended travel 52.0g(1.827oz) at 2.50mm(0.0984) full travel Socket : Phosphor Bronze / Gold Plated Plunger : Hardened Beryllium copper / Gold Plated Barrel : Phosphor Bronze / Gold Plated Spring : Music Wire / Gold Plated Housing : LG chem ABS-AF312 Cable length: 420mm
Requires: USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors
Suits the Following MCU: Atmel Atmega8, Atmega48, Atmega88, Atmega168, Atmega328
I did eventually get it all sorted out - although KKtool will not do anything at stops at fuze fault. On iMac it seems to run OK but cannot check fuze I think was the error - but read its irritation to see it but not a problem!
BUT having spent hours yesterday (23/11/15) building uip onto a 450 frame - Open pilot doe not get to spin any motors - so trying to find out why. That and battling with a Devo 10 that will not bind!
Thanks for your reply.
The pins are kind of springy, the white plastic part fits on the chip perfectly. If you press it down for the time of flashing the chip with a foam/sponge underneath the ESC it will be alright. As a matter of fact it will be alright even if you just press it down. The flashing time is below 10 seconds, you'll manage. Also, you can set the kkmulticopter flashtool to start with a delay so that you can have, say 2 seconds between clicking green running man and actual flashing process - just enought to tight fit the tool. Done 10 of my ESCs the first day I got it, no issues at all.
I have killed two ESCs because I didn't disconnect the main battery. It's quite easy to put the tool in the wrong direction or slightly offset - normally this is not a problem, the power from the USB port can't really do much harm but if you somehow manage to activate the high side and low side FET of the same output while the battery is connected...... it's quite intense. *-)
Alright, this thing is legitimately awesome. A similar setup is gonna run you $160-200 from a renowned international manufacturer. Hint: the group of 3 closely-spaced pins on one corner face *away* from the dot on the ATMega chip. I could otherwise see no alignment features, so I hope this helps.
The 10-pin ISP header is rarer nowadays, and I had to make a crossover cable to work with a 6 pin AVR ISPmkII unit. I know it's supposed to work with a USBASP, but I've also no luck getting the damned USBASP to work *at all*.
I've found this tool to be very useful, saves a lot of time that would have to be spent wiring a port on an ESC that you plan to reprogram. You have to keep firm perpendicular pressure to make sure the connections remain connected.