Are you ready for a flying experience like no other? You better be, because the Auto-G is here!
Durafly® ™ has raised the bar once again with the Auto-G gyrocopter. The first and only plug and fly autogyro on the market today! Keeping with tradition, the Auto-G is a breeze to assemble, looks amazing and flies just as well. Exactly what you expect from a Durafly® ™ model.
Autogyros are very unique aircraft utilizing an unpowered free-spinning main rotor to develop lift, and a powered propeller to provide thrust. This makes them quite different from traditional fixed wing aircraft. The Auto-G offers you this very interesting design in an easy and simple to use plug and fly model.
For those of you looking for a new flying experience, the Auto-G is just the ticket. This model will be especially appealing to those who fly both helicopters and fixed wing aircraft, as this model falls somewhere in between. With its very unique flight characteristics, the Auto-G is by far one of the most interesting models we have ever flown. In addition to its super slow flight and auto-rotation capability, it can even perform aerobatics such as stall turns and loops!
The Auto-G fuselage and tail are constructed from ultra durable EPO foam, while the tail boom is made from lightweight carbon fiber. This model is super easy to assemble with its pre-installed electronics, bolt on horizontal stab, pre-fitted servo linkages and push-in landing gear. The only part on this model that requires gluing is the vertical stabilizer. This means you can have your Auto-G in the air in as little as 15 minutes!
*Note: Page 8 of the user manual shows incorrect information for the "rotor control direction". Please see the ammendment sheet attached under the "Files" tab. Features: • Tough EPO Construction • Fast and Easy Assembly • Strong, Impact Resistant Rotor Blades • Power System and Servos Pre-Installed • Simple, Low Parts Count Design • Unique Flying Experience
Dear Sir Madem.
All I ask if my transmitter will bind with the Gyrocopter that is an simple Question instead I have got an rude answer back. Well if that the way you deal with your customers you will not get any business out of me
Sorry if you perceived my answer as rude, that was really not my intention (I just tried to explain the mechanism behind why your question got replaced with four stars). That is to say, the four stars that replaced your initial question (in the post below this one) is a sign that you have been cen_sored by HK. And FYI, I'm not a HK employee, I'm a regular customer, just trying to help. To answer your question: This gyrocopter does not come with a receiver, you have to put your own in. Any 4-channel receiver that works with your transmitter and that has "normal" 1520 us servo outputs should work with this machine. You might also want to consider the Auto-G2, I recommend it because it is easier to get in the air than the Auto-G. Since the Auto-G2 has a main rotor pre-rotator, you need one more channel than the 4 ones required to fly it (to control the pre-rotator). I use a $pektrum dee exx 8 with an OrangeRX R610 in my Auto-G2, works just great. HTH
The material is 2mm ply from trent-plastics via ebay. £*5 for a sheet big enough to make a boxful. The uper blade holders have an angle on the end, file this off completely. What this does is leave a gap between the upper tang and the hub centre when you bolt it together. The bottom tang is unecessary. What this creates is a more flexible hub that is stronger and can be flung all over the sky and no fear of breakage, it also saves blades when inevitably it gets a few knocks. The hub is an almost identical design as one i made 8 years ago when I built gyros from scractch. This is a great model and a bargain for the price. I bought a load of blades and use them on my own designs as well. Probably the only weakness in the design of this model is the flex material, it just isnt up to the job. It makes a great template though to make your own.
Try again Wilhelmus, HK has ce_nsor bots (and possibly also personnel) that remove posts which mention brands or models not sold on HK (also swear words are removed). If you want to mention such things, you need to obfuscate them, e.g. $pektrum, dee exx 8.
Sean: I finally got the polypropylene sheet! It was quite big, so I made three units to begin with, using the old rotor head main plate as template. I followed your guidelines and skipped the bottom tangs, sawed off the tapered part of the top tang, and fastened the blades using only the outer screw, but using larger screws (3mm) with lock nut and washers. The result looks very similar to your pictures. I have three flights on it with this new head, and I have to say it flies better, and it is a _lot_ sturdier. I did the first flight in poor light conditions (too eager to wait, eh), lost orientation and smacked it full speed into the dirt! Broke it in two pieces (tail with some foam and the rest of the fuselage), propeller, two main blades broke etc. but the big thing is that the main rotor hub suffered no damage at all! After repairing, I have done two more flights (yes, in better light conditions :-) and I really whipped it around, tight turns and loops and what have you. I have total confidence in the rotor head now. And two spare ones to boot! It actually seems to run quieter for some reason too, can't explain that. Thanks for a really great tip! :-)
For a bulletproof head ditch use polypropylene sheet 2mm thick. Use the original as a template.
Ditch the bottom blade tang and file slightly the angle part of the upper blade tang to create a 2mm gap between the tang and the triangle boss. Its more flexible, rugged and you can loop and roll all day.
Biggest tip ! Ditch completely the outboard screws, drill to take a 2.5 mm screw at the inner and just tighten enough the blades arent completely wobbly. Self aligns and doesnt brake a blade or the hub when you whack it.
This model is a lot of fun to fly. It has 1 major issue that HK should fix. The blade grip assembly is very weak. So if you try and loop and do a steep turn it can actually fail on you. Not the 1st time probably but on my 5th battery it gave up in a turn, and all the blades came off. Resulting in a fatal dive into the ground with just dust left of it. I have done some searching around the web and found out Im not the only one this has happened too. HK you have to release a strength mod in carbon fiber or something that we can buy!
I don't think the designers really had that sort of flying in mind when they made this gyro**-
Aerobatics is not really a gyro thing**-Most people are happy to just get them off the ground-around-and back on the ground in one piece.
Robert, take a look at the tip above from Sean, might be the mod you're after (well, that and a new Auto-G2 by the description of your crash).
I have just received mine and am very happy with the quality of the kit. The rotor bearing is not a ball race but a plain bearing type and will need frequent lubrication.
Being brand new to autogyros, my problem is with page 8 of the instruction manual concerning control directions.
The diagrams show views from the tail of the aircraft looking forward. Rudder and elevator directions are correct, but left and right rotor tilting seem to be reversed. It shows rotor left making the rotor tilt to the right, and rotor right as tilting to the left. This makes no sense to me. Can any gyro nuts out there let us all know if this is correct, before someone comes unstuck on the first launch.
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I have just received my Auto G. There are no difficulties for the assembly. It took approximately one hour. I noted that the rods of commands of pitch and rudder are a little bit too long. It is necessary to screw clevis far from the end. Only my question is about Center of Gravity position because of the unprecise manual schematic. Is 240mm from end of spiner or frome fire wall. In fact I think the well balanced Gyro is when I hold it by the rotor head and it take a litle pitch down attitude. I'll test in flight asap and guive a feedback
Je viens de recevoir mon Auto G. Il n'y a pas de problème de montage qui prend environ 1h00.J'ai juste noté que les commandes de profondeur et direction sont très longues et nécessitent de visser les chapes à fond. Pour le centrage, le dessin de la notice n'est pas claire mais ma faible expérience des autogires me laisse penser qu'en le tenant par la tête de rotor il doit avoir une attitude légèrement piqueur.
Je fais le test en vol dès que possible et donne mes impressions.
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Received built and maiden in same afternoon thanks to mild Sunday in the u k.
roll control in instructions is WRONG. Right roll disk tilts to right. Left roll disk tilts left. Think of the lift vector and the aircraft follows, needs good positive rudder inputs but soon mastered. R O G is interesting..... Forward speed ...no elevator and wait till the disk wants to lift... Be ready with right roll (aileron) .landing... Play with the throttle and slow with up elevator and she floats down like an auto giro does......MAGIC.
Stops everyone else flying to watch her.... Looks just great. Thanks H K.
Well deserved 5 stars.
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AWESOME GYRO I HAVE NOT HAD AS MUCH FUN FLYING ANYTHING AS MUCH AS THIS. EASY TO LAUNCH ROG OR 1/2 THROTTLE HAND LAUNCH INTO THE WIND. LANDING WAS JUST AS EASY I JUST BACKED THE POWER OFF AND LET IT AUTO ON TO THE GROUND. 1 THING I FOUND THAT YOU NEED A BIT OFF ROOM FOR ROG TAKEOFF AND ONLY REQUIRE 1/2 THROTTLE I HOPE THIS HELPS
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Assembly is super simple along with the mentioned battery and RX I had a great time flying this unique aircraft. Like everyone else I will mention that the instructions for the aileron should be Left aileron = Left tilt on the rotor. When the airspeed on the rotor slows expect the gyro to roll left and require correction to the right aileron to hold her steady.
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Autogyros by nature can be quite tricky to launch. We suggest that your initial flights be hand launched and not attempt an ROG until you get comfortable with the model. The most important thing about the launch is to make sure that the main rotor is up to speed first. If the head speed is too low, the model will roll to the left as the rotor speeds up (torque effect). After you get the hang of it, launching is a breeze!