The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
Cable or connector? If the connector ... go here to this RCG thread "Careful! "JST" connector confusion - the real story" to understand micro connectors. The GPS connector is six pin .... probably a micro JST (SH). Thare are solder pads just in front of the GPS unit ... if you are careful, you can tap your wires to these pads instead. Personally, I have not required removing the JST plug even when I change from one board to another so I could have hard wired it there and never think about it again. Where to buy ... your local electronics store (bring the GPS unit to check the fit..) or go to E bay .. there are a lot of sellers there.
You know when you have an obsession when your 2 MWFC boards arrive and you unpack them & put them next to the "other" spare MWFC Boards that you forgot you had....... anyone flying this weekend???...... if so what are you testing?? I am taking out my blackout mini H and 3D copter and my newly fitted 250X which has nice shinny yellow 2300kV motors which is going to introduced to a 4 cell...... do the maths..... 2300x16.8 equals 38,640 per motor...... vids yes..... crashes no....... learnings yes....... fun?? kenoath....
The "new" 500 quad frame arrived ... it is a thing of beauty. The AIOP goes into this frame .. why? The board has the pinouts for vbat ... so hopefully Minim displays voltage without any other connection. At $18 a frame, it's a no brainer for a test copter. The BlackEnd with the cute board is up and running ... RTE'd it hard to the ground yesterday on speed runs ... do not be too aggressive pushing the stick forward on "acro" RC Rate settings ... the copter dives to the ground. No damage ... brushed off the soil from the 3-blader and all is well to another go. Also a 2.3m Fox sailplane with an HK stab ... also a thing of beauty ... wings a long and thing .. flies like a dart in the wind despite the length.
Gor ... I'm allergic to balsa as well ... not because of the wood but because I do not like building thrashed balsa models after a RTE ... tried it once and a bad balsa rash developed. Cure is Elapore, EPO and EPP. You can lawndart a foam sailplane into the ground and with hot water, CA glue (not even foam safe) or JBWelder, have the model flying the next day. Fly for 45 min on a 2000 mah Lipo (thermaling and soaring) which is unheard of with copters ... gives you a neck sore and ear to ear smile.
So what did you do? Did you upload a new sketch? What version? a) Arming is usually a challenge if your radio endpoints are not within the signal level range (900 lower and 2000 upper) .. adjust your radio endpoints accordingly. This is usually an issue with Spe k trum radios. b) About your stability issue ... assuming you loaded at least MWC 2.2, you should enable Horizon or Angle mode on an Aux channel otherwise you are flying Angle .. which is like a KK v1 board. No code changes needed here ... just Aux settings. c) If you did enable Horizon but still have stability issues .. you probably have severe vibrations that adversely affect the sensors - balance your props and motors. You could also be using a Flamewheel or clone with plastic arms ... those are notorious for motor pulsing which could lead to a crash ... so enable a LPS in config.h .. 42 Hz usually works. Video below (if it shows up) is the Pro board on a RotorBits Hex with a BLG and HD camera on board. GPS PH, Alt-Hold, Head Free work as expected. The copter can do also do waypoints ....Post a vid and maybe we can help ...
Post some details about what you have tried and you will get all the help you need here. Does it actually fly and only drift a little, or is it out of control? Have you tried erasing the eprom first before loading the firmware? That's a biggie. Are you flying in acro mode or horizon mode? Have you balanced your props?
OK guys I guess I have a couple stupid questions. What long range Tx/Rx system would be best to use on a fixed wing application where I am using a wii board for long distance GPS way point navigation? I heard you guys referance LRS systems and possibly a cheap hack into cell phone freaks,,,what gives,,,and what would work say if I was pushing it out to three miles from a high vantage point where it is still line of sight.
Look at the "OrangeRX Open LRS 433MHz Transmitter 1W ( JR Compatible)" ... need a Ham license at this power level though ... with the proper antennas should be able to get you 3 km at least. At the distance, you would need FPV so you know what's going on ... visual reference and telemetry ... MinimOSD info ...Have not touched this in many moons and my brain cells are foggy at the moment ... but it works.
Majik, I think I know why we are always getting cold starts on the GPS units. The batteries are dead all the time. I tested the voltages on all of mine and they were all below 1.5V. Even the ones I had just been working with. I had an idea that the charge rate might be really slow, so I powered the Ublox for the last 18 hours, and lo! The battery voltage is now 3.0V and it hot starts in about 3 to 5 seconds. The nominal voltage is 3V and both the MTK and Ublox use the same battery. Give it a try.
Gordon .. good tip. If the unit had an EEPROM, this would not be an issue. Newey ... use the USB cord to power the board and a plug in USB adapter (for cellphones or tablets ..) ... the GPS gets power and so the small battery gets charged too. You can leave the board powered without risk of a flyaway or a Lipo going flat. After so many hours of not being used, the battery goes flat again ...
Thanks for the input guys I think this had something to do with old trust dump truck flying off on RTH the other day. Had to reload whole sketch to straighten things out,,,really weird. Has never done that before.
As a rule, if I am going to engage PH or RTH, I make sure I have my Tab and EZGUI, check sats and make sure I have a valid "home" before I fly ... I flew once with iffy sat fixes (had 5 or less I think) and the copter did not PH at all .. it drifted all over the place. After several bats, PH improved so I tried out RTH .. which was also good. Only time I almost p****d in my pants was when I was coming down with Alt-hold enabled and I could not disarm the board and the props were turning quite fast ... I was thinking of taking off my shirt and throwing it on the props just long enough to unplug the Lipo .. turns out this is normal for 2.3 ... Alt-hold overrides throttle when enabled ... duh ... Remember to turn off alt-hold off before you land.
OK, More on the GPS thing. I have also noticed that when watching the GUI, if I jiggle the GPS wires at the FC connector, the GPS drops in and out and often does not come back on line. This was true for both the Ublox and MTK units and for different ports. I pulled the plastic covers from the wire ends and carefully soldered the wires and also pinched the tounge in the connector so it grabs tighter and the problem was still there. As a result, I have soldered the wires to both the GPS and the board. Now it's staying online. I wonder how many strange incidents this has caused? I strongly recommend you all test yours too.
Something similar happened to me .. even with solid connections ... the GPS wires ran beside wires to the Minim OSD and BT units ... the GPS unit was still on and it was getting sats but the number dropped below baseline (5 sats). Whaaaa ha ha pen? Looked carefully and other Serial wires were mechanically "touching" the GPS wires ... so I separated the cables and make sure they all had clean runs. The issue disappeared ... got me thinking .. only time I saw this behavior was with RF and high frequency signals going though copper .. then it struck me ... the board runs on high frequency signals which tells me, jumbled wires could be a source of problems ... Can't put toroid rings on all the cables ... but that would not be a bad idea ...
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
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Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED