The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
So i thought i had it working could get gps and everything come to flying and have a problem where the motors all start up fine and then the rear right just stops working i dont think it is hardware as the same esc when on its own (ie not into the board but just a reciever) works fine any ideas is it sometihng ive done wrong?
Hey mooch or any1 else. Does the f.l.i.p32 send power to the RX via the cppm cable? I got it all on the bench and programmed w telemetry and a frsky d4r2 RX but im not sure how to power it. Dont wanna brick it with a wrong connection... Running cleanfligt atm..
CPPM cable - you mean the servo lead wire? You have to connect the signal, power and ground wires as you would a regular channel. I've had the connection reversed before but that just sent signal to ground and vise versa ... no damaged except my pride.
The short answer is no......... its connected to the top pinout therefore the motor escs will provide the power to the board and the RX....... you can connect the battery straight to the board and hook the D4R up to the board as well.... vbat and telemetry......
I have vbat and telemtry enabled and connected. Just havent added the battery yet... Powerd the 32 on usb and RX from a 5v converter to test sticks and aux...so what you are saying and all videos on telemetry show that there is no need for a separate 5v cable to RX... It will be powerd from the PPM or vbat connections.... It will be in the frame during the weekend. :)
Thats correct :) however the 250 racing have been here for some time but i felt the kk2 needed retirement...And i wanted telemetry on this one... After i got the Vector with OSD and Telemetry im finding it better to have some battery info... There have been a few hard landings on the 250 from not enough power to recover from loops, rolls and speed dives :)
hi tony i brought one of those gimbals you said were good , i plyg it into the battery to test it and it just keeps vibrating, DJI Phantom Brushless Gimbal Cam Mount w/ Motor&Controller for Gopro3
any ideas is it faulty regards peter
Wom .... what kind of vibration? a) The whole gimbal cradle is shaking like a leaf or b) you hear a low frequency "hum" on the camera mount that can only be attenuated by inserting a piece of foam between the camera and the gimbal cradle (he, he....) Ohhh BTW, make sure your camera is perfectly balanced on the gimbal arms before you power up or your controller will "seek" the neutral position. Mooch is having too much fun with his FPV 230 and J9's and FPV copter ....
Yep ... you have to mount it, balance the arms (with the camera or dummy weight) and power up ... it will move a little then settle on the neutral / ready position after the boot up is finished. Unless it finds the "balance" position, the boot up will not be complete.
Hey Pete there is a few things you need to do as maj stated....... what you also need to do is after you have mounted a camera and have it stable (for testing I clamped it to my desk here) you will need to download the GUI so you can calibrate the accs and gyros then set the speeds of the motors....... angle of the pitch if you have it connected to a spare channel and the PIDs if it is NOT operating smoothly..... while they are great to use they can be a tad temperamental to set up but it basically the same a one of these boards really.... mine took about 20mins...... cheers
a) I have a bottom plate with the same holes as the damper balls so I attach the gimbals to the frame using the damper balls b) mount the upper damper plate to the protruding frame of the copter via single screw - this way the gimbal can be adjusted and taken out with only one screw to remove.
They shouldnt get warm warm but as there is some current flowing they wont stay stone cold... so how warm is warm??...... and if its too hot you can reduce the amount of current to the motors in the GUI. Its in the motor configuration tab........ next to the PIDs....... reduce the power till it starts to fail then up it a smidge......
Same issue of motor temps as Kurt ... me wonders if the motor power setting have been defaulted to a high value or something is causing the motors to vibrate and generate heat .. dunno .. have not encountered that issue .. yet.
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
42 comments. Reply..
Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED