Looking for the perfect trainer? or an in-expensive FPV platform? Maybe you are a club pilot looking for something you can just pull out of the car and fly on one of those lazy Sunday afternoons? The Hobbyking Bixler 2 ticks all of these boxes and more! The Bixler 2 retains all of the great features of the original Bixler but offers more in terms of all round capability courtesy of larger dimensions and several design improvements.
The Bixler 2 has all the right ingredients, made from super tough EPO foam, everything is pre-installed so minimal assembly time is required, in fact, by the time you have charged a battery, it should be ready to fly! The combination of size, low wing loading and a sleek fuselage make for and excellent model with capable yet forgiving flight characteristics. The plug in wing makes the Bixler a practical model that is easy to transport to your favorite flying field and can be ready to fly in just minutes. Another practical feature of the Bixler 2 is it's ability to accept a wide range of Lipoly sizes and /or FPV equipment courtesy of the enlarged canopy area. The Bixler 2 also comes with optional flaps which are pre-hinged (servo's not included) the flaps are particularly ideal for FPV pilots carrying a heavier payload. The final improvement was to re-design the boom area to allow the Bixler 2 use a low kv motor and larger prop combo, which is more efficient and offers a more linear throttle response.
The larger wing, flaps & much larger canopy area mean that the Bixler 2 is now so much more versatile in terms of FPV use and for new pilots and experienced pilots alike who are simply flying for fun, these new design features, combined with the larger, more efficient prop mean that the Bixler 2 offers longer flight times. However you decide to fly the Bixler 2, you can be assured that it is still just as easy and fun to fly as ever!
Features: Easy and Fun to Fly Easy, Fast and Simple Assembly New Larger Canopy area to accomodate FPV equipment and/or larger Flight Lipo Pre-Installed Servo's & Brushless Motor Larger Wing Span for greater glide & Payload Carrying Capability Plastic Landing Skid New, lower kv Brushless Motor/larger Prop Combo for Greater Efficiency Pre-Installed Optional Flaps Mounted on Plastic Hinges (require Servo's for operation - not included) Plug In Wings for Easy Transportation Pre-Installed Round Pin Hinges on Rudder & Elevator
Includes: Instructions Screwdriver Glue 2 x Y-Lead Hook & Loop Spare Clevise x 2 Horns & control Rods for Optional Flaps
I don't have this plane so I don't know what the glue is but* contact adhesives are use by applying a thin layer of on both the parts that are to be joined, letting it dry (or just get tacky), and then pressing them together.
Just punch it with the other side of the cap, be gentile use enough but not too much it works pretty well and will glue all the parts needed, you can save some for later on, field repairs but close it well so it does not dry. If you run out of it try to use some glue that is nice with foam, some glues eat through so be careful! Hot Glue also works fine and its a good quick fix! Enjoy the plane! and fly safe!
If You ask about "Bixler 2" servos, You must know that there are only aileron's servos, no flap's servos.
So, Your question needs two answers: if You're speaking about aileron's servos, they're normal servos and they'll work correctly so as they are, without any servo reverser, simply connecting them to the receiver with the "Y" cable supplied.
If You're speaking about OPTIONAL flap's servos, if You'll use a standard servo, You'll need a servo reverser or a programmable radio, as Roger said, reverse one of them.
Another solution is to reverse one servo inside: You must open it and swing the motor's cables. Then You have to rotate the little board in front of motor and You'll see three wires* these are the pot's wires and You must swing the two external wires.
Write "how to reverse a servo" on Youtube and You'll find a lot of stuff about it.
Hola! Qusiera saber que items convendria adquirir para el armado del modelo. Les comento que tengouna radio kds 7xII, por lo tanto necesito un receiver para la misma y tambien el esc.quisiera los mejores Tengo un par de baterias de 2300mh. Gracias por su atenció*n! Charly.
I think that if You write in Enlish, You'll have many more answers.
Anyway, about ESC, I suggest You a Turnigy Plush 40A Code n. TR_P40A)* it wouldn't be necessary with stock motor, but it will work fresher than a 20 or 30 A ESC and You won't have to change it if You'll change motor (and You'll change it soon...).
With ESC You'll also need connectors: 3.5 mm connector for motor (code n. AM1001-C or n. AM1001A) and XT60 for battery (Code n. XT60 if You want both, male and female, or code n. 601Ax5 if You want only male, for ESC).
Don't forget 4mm black, red and yellow heat shrink tube to isolate connectors!
I don't know which kind of connector You already have on Your battery, anyway I suggest You to use XT60 connectors, since a lot of ESC, batteries, chargers and other accessories from Hobbyking uses these kind of connectors, it's like a standard use for a lot of stuff.
If You want to ativate flaps (strongly suggested), You'll also need two more servos* the best for quality/price rapport are HXT900 (Code n. HXT900).
You'll also need to reverse one of these to make it work correctly.
To do this You've three options:
- computer radio: You connect each flap's servo on a dedicated channel and You program these channels to move correctly both servos*
- Servo signal reverser: code n. SIG-REV* it simply reverse the servo signal on one servo*
- Reverse one servo modifing it: just write "how to reverse a servo" on Youtube and follow instructions* You'll have to open Your servo and to reverse motor's wires and the two external pot's wires, easier to do than to explain.
I cannot help You for the receiver, since I don't know You radio.
The T cable supplied for the flap servos operates the flaps in reverse mode like the ailerons.
Why did HK made the room for the two servos aligned instead of 180 degrees respectively rotated?
This forces a mod of the wing grove for one servo or buy a servo inverter!
There is no mention of this in the manual.
I think it really depends on what you are comfortable, experience and conditions where you fly. most tx manuals have a basic setting written down as a guide (something not over the top) and it takes a few flights to find something your happy with.
A Friend and I both have the Bixler 2 but his settings are completely different to mine.
Luke is right, it depends from weather, weight and personal preferences, but for first flights I think that You won't be wrong with a 60-70% expo on elev and aile, and a 40-50% expo on rudder.
Set all expo on a single switch, so You'll be able to switch it fast on and off if You'll want.
Don't reduce the servos run, because in some conditions You should need all the servo's movement that it's possible to have, even if You're using expo.
For hand launch, trim elev 6-7 points for nose up, little bit more than half throttle and launch the plane flat or few degrees up, upwind.
Don't launch it too high or You'll risk a stall.
Don't use neither full throttle, because it will cause the nose going down.
When You're plane will be at safe altitude, trim it as You need.
RE: PRODUCT ID: 9310000060
ON the side bar of the web page describing Hobbyking Bixler 2 EPO 1500mm w/ Brushless Motor, Servos and Optional Flaps (ARF), there is one entry for the price of $79.76 (backordered) and another entry for $69.99. I can't see any difference in the product descriptions. WHat is the difference? I'd like to place the order asap. Thank you!
They're the same item. Only difference is warehouse location, the one priced at 79$ is located at the US warehouse the other one is from the International warehouse which will probably cost more when the postage is added to the total price.
Mounting the elevator and rudder servos on the Bixler 2: the only way to insert the arm of the servos to the S steel, is to do it without the servo. A problem arises when the arm has to be fixed to the servo axis: it can be inserted but the fixing screw is unaccessible. The only solution is to detach the push rod and sleeve from the fuselage which will break the decal. Any better solution?
I've used a very thin and long screwdriver.
Make an hole (a very little hole) in the belly, in a way that You can reach the screw with the arm mounted.
When You've finished, if You've used a small screwdirver, You won't notice the little hole on the bottom.
You can cover it with tape, that You's use anyway to protect the belly.
In this way, You can screw and unscrew servi arm's screws whenever You want.
Thank you Reccardo! You can not believe how much this has helped me. I will probably end up getting a bigger ESC like you said, so I can modify it if I want to in the future. Again thank you very much, you are a big help.
Hmm. The youtube link I put in the youtube link area did not work. Anyway its video oboNCkb0LKs on youtube if you guys want to check it out sometime. I installed a D2826-10 1400kv motor and Blue Series 30A ESC and it works out great.
ESC doesn't pull anything.
The amperes indicated on the device is the maximum current that can pass through the ESC without damages.
Anyway, amperes are requested by motor, are not pulled by battery, so You must be carefull only with Volts indication.
You can install any ESC that have ampere compatible with the motor request: for example, if the motor with a kind of prop has a max request of 20 A, You can install MINIMUM a 20A Esc (but is always better to have a tollerance of plus 25% on Esc, so the minimum should be 25A) but there's no maximum.
If You install a 40 Ampere ESC, it will work more fresh and less "under pressure" at thr same ampere's request.
A bigger Amp Esc will also allows You to install a bigger motor in the future without changing the Esc.
In fact, a lot of Bixler 2 owner changes immediately the stock motor with a more powerfull D2826-2.200 Kv motor (6X4 prop) and the best ESC for this motor is exactly a 40A.
So, 25 Amp Esc for the stock motor is ok and even better of a 20 Amp one that, in my opinion, should be too close to the limit.
Upper limit in choosing an Esc are not Amperes but grams: it's true that the bigger the amp, the fresher and stressless it will work an Esc, but don't exagerate with the dimension because it's also true that the bigger the Amp, the bigger the weight!
Just to explain the Amperes:
Imagine ampere as water.
The battery is the bottle, the ampere indicated on the label is how many litres of water are inside the bottle (range) and the "C" rate is how many litres can go out from the bottle instantly.
The ESC is just a pipe. The Amper indicated on the label is how many litres can pass through this pipe, instantly.
The motor is the water blower.
Example: I've got a motor that full throttle "drinks" 20 litres per second of water.
My bottle's capacity (battery) can be 10 litres, 100 litres, 1.000 litres, doesn't matter: if it's 10 litre, my motor at full throttle will work for half a second, then will stop, if the bottle's capacity's is 1.000 litres, my motor at full throttle will work for 50 seconds, then will stop.
More important than capacity, in a battery, is the "C" rate: if my bottle cannot supply the requested 20 litres per second, even if its capacity is 100.000 litres, my bottle will brake.
The same is for the battery: if a battery cannot supply the motor's instant request, the battery will burn, doesn't matter how many amps of capacity are indicated on the label.
ESC: this is only the pipe where the requested water pass through* if my motor drinks 20 litres per second and my bottle, full or half, doesn't matter, can supply 20 litres per second, also the pipe must allow all this water to pass through.
If it's bigger, nothing changes, if it's smaller, it will brake.
They are unbranded, but compared to the turnigy 9g I used for my flaps, they are quite low torque and easy to move. None of the servos have failed ( little bit of jitter), despite several violent crashes on my part.
I've removed them and I've discovered that they're labeled "Hobby King".
I had an issue with elevator's servo: the internal gear has broken and the plain falled down.
I've replaced all servos with HXT900 (ID: HXT900).
In my new Bixler 2 (kit), again with HXT900.
Good servos for low price.
Can someone please recommend the throws for aileron, elevator and rudder on the Bixler 2, the manual does not give these.
Also for the wing the manual just states to add glue to the channel and "affix the channel cover" it does not say to glue the carbon fibre rod within the channel or to glue the two halves of the wing together just "fix the screw on the bottom of the fuselage". I assume the wing would be more rigid if the carbon rod was glued within the channel or is this not necessary? It would be easier to transport if the wing was in two halves.
If You need to easily transport it, don't glue the carbon rod inside the channel, it's not necessary.
You can put also some tape on the channel, after that You've glued it, to make it stronger and to protect wing's bottom from scratches.
Use the fiber tape and use it also to protect all the edges and the plane's belly.
I've got two Bixlers 2 and I've never glued carbon rods inside* till now, no issues at all and I've also changed the stock motor with another more powerfull and flew my planes fast and acrobatic.
About Your first question (Can someone please recommend the throws for aileron, elevator and rudder on the Bixler 2), sorry but my Englisg is not good and I don't understand it.
Mike, you can assemble the Bx2 with no throw at all. As this is a completely forgiving plane, you can adjust either the links or subtrims in the aftermath. Concerning the carbon road, as Ricardo asserted, not need to glue the rod and such will not increase stiffness. Instead, get a 3 or 4mm hollow carbon rod and pack it through into the stock spar glueing well. This will increase some rigidity.
Thanks you both for useful information. After reading other comments I purchased a more powerful motor when buying the plane but can't see how to remove the original motor. There seems to be no screw mount, is it glued in place?
No, it's not glued.
There are screws, You'd must see them watching inside the opened space on the top of the plane, from forward to back, where it's the back side of the motor.
Maybe You don't see them because are black, the same colour of the motor mount, but there are.
Ayberk, you can use the bixler 2 motor mount upgrade -product ID: 310000115- It allows you to set a bigger motor -28 to 40- with lower kv rate as well as bigger props -8" to 9"- which translates into bigger FPV payload and smoother flights, but forget about speedy flights* unless you want a bigger motor bigger kv rating and 7x6 or 6x6 prop for rocking.
Go to youtube and search 'bixler 2 motor upgrade' . The vid is by 'dhdsracer'. He just chopped the part horizontally but did not cut the plastic motor mount, thats when you can unscrew the stock motor than screw in the new one
Can someone help - I have bought a Bixler 2 but cannot get the flaps to operate in the same direction. They behave like ailerons. I have a hitech optic6 2.4 tx the flaps operate with a y cable from channel 6. There is a servo reverse function in my tx menu but as they both connect to the same channel this doesn't solve the problem. email donachy5172*bigpond****
You can also reverse one flap's servo, directly.
Not the connector! You must open it and reverse motor's wires, then overturn the little board and watch at the three wires soldered (pot's wires): the two external wires must be reversed too.
In this way You'll have a reversed servo.
There are a lot of videos on Youtube: just write "how to reverse a servo".
Wire's colors could be different from a servo to another, but the way is the same.
Frankie, yes it is. Nevertheless in the prop included plastic is a little flimsy. For training, parkflying or gliding around is fine. For sure you have to change the prop adapter (shaft 3,17mm), because the stock is uncentered and adds vibration -look for this Producto ID: OR002-01203-. For simple FPV get a prop APC 7x5 or 7x6- For higher payload get the motor mount upgrade -Producto ID: 310000115- in order to use bigger props (8"to 9") in conjuction with outrunners 28-40 but lower kv rating than the stock (1300kv). These bigge motors use prop adapters for 4 to 5mm shafts. Collet type adapters are simple are very reliable.
You must upgrade the motor to the D2826-6 2200kv and a bigger battery obviously and make sure the CG is alright
2 points - 5/6/2013
il mio bixler2 l'ho eqipaggiato con una batteria 2200mah 3s e volo per circa 25 minuti senza problemi poi è* veramente stabile e risponde ottimamente hai comandi è* veramente divertente volare con il bixler2
Daniel, surely you can. Just keep in mind always checking the CG (30-33% way back front nose) as to counterbalance the tail. Unless using a different motor than stock, you won't need such discharge rate C35-70, so you might save some bugs using any 3S lipo >1800mah in the range C20-35.
BEST ANSWER CREDIT AWARDED
4 thumbs up!
The new bixler is a great plane with better low speed characteristics and more options for batteries and loading. The flaps are a breeze to install and servos seem to be higher quality than the predecessor. The spar still has flex and could be reinforced but it's not necessary. The motor is cheap but gets the job done just fine. My collette adapter was off balance and sent vibrations through the plane. That is my only major complaint. Amazing plane, highly recommended! Search this for my full video review on youtube. lLxKgtgKeVs
1 comment. Reply..
3 thumbs up!
The quality of the plane itself is very good. It goes together very nicely and the servos, control horns, and hinges are very good. The motor on the other hand is really poor. The performance of mine compared to the original bixler is terrible. The prop collet is way out of balance and the motor makes a clicking sound. The shaft of the motor seems to be an odd size. Tried to get a replacement collet locally, but a 2.3mm is too small and a 3mm is way too big. I feel like I have to fly at 3/4 throttle just to keep it airborne. Also, the 20 amp esc gets very hot after about 10 mins. I am going to put a link to a video of the collet spinning in the discussion or somewhere. And no, the prop is not on backwards :)
1 comment. Reply..
3 thumbs up!
This is my second review on this plane. My first one wasn't 100pcnt positive because I thought that the plane did not have enough power. After that I changed some things. I put back the original prop, because before the first flight I replaced the stock prop with an EMP 7x5. I replaced the prop adapter, because in the stock one the shaft hole wasn't in the middle (I first thought that the motor shaft was bend). And I put the CoG more to the back because the plane was a little bit nose heavy. I also changed some settings on the transmitter so I now fly with 100pcnt servo movement.
Today I flew the second flight (the first one after the modifications) and it flies perfectly!! The prop reaches a higher RPM and the plane now certainly has enough power for loopings, rolls and high speed turns. I already now that I will love flying this plane!!
1 comment. Reply..
3 thumbs up!
After placing 104 orders with Hobbyking I recieved my Bixler2 and wrote an extensive review. I went to submit the review and it was rejected and said I cant write a review as I'm not a Gold Member. Hobbyking let me remind you of something in your own words... Welcome Platinum member! We take our customers membership very seriously, and as a platinum member you will be given the best service possible with prioritisation in support issues and warranty claims. Platinum members can also enjoy the very best pricing from our store and receive exclusive discount emails. As a Platinum member we value you as a customer greatly and will try our best to ensure your expectations are met.
Do date I have never recieved an email from you offering a discount on any item and I have been with you for years. Then I'm insulted by being rejected for a review.
10 comments. Reply..
3 thumbs up!
Nice finish on foam, but lacks the quality of the components. Clevis & horn quality lacking and needs replacement. Prop adaptor drilled off centre and was needing replacement before flight to avoid damage to the craft. (this was the same for two of the original bixlers I purchased weeks ago.) Some hobby experience is required in assembly to reduce crashing due to component failure, other wise nice craft.