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Hobbyking i86L Multi-Rotor Control Board (Lite Edition)
Hobbyking i86L Multi-Rotor Control Board (Lite Edition) features the same level of stability and ease of setup as the standard i86. The i86L features a basic set of multi-rotor layouts and an easy ESC and and stick centering calibration mode via the dip switches.
Controlled by an Atmel Mega168PA 8-Bit RISC based micro controller and utilizing a single 3-axis MEMS gyro the Hobbyking i86L Multi-Rotor Control Board is capable of 6 Multi-rotor craft types and 2 flight modes without the need to flash the micro controller. The simple dip switch systems allows for quick and easy selection of your desired Multi-rotor configuration and flight mode.
Light weight and compact the i86L can fit in the smallest of craft and includes a small piece of double sided tape to install.
The Hobbyking i86L Multi-Rotor Control Board supports: Tri copter Quad copter X/+ Hex copter/H6 copter Y6 Copter All of the above modes can be set in "Normal" mode or "Sports" mode (default normal)
Specs: Input Voltage: 4v to 6v Input signal: 50hz standard PPM PWM Frequency: 400hz for ESC, 50hz for servos Gyro scale: +/- 500dps, ODR: 800hz Operating temp: -40° C to 85° C Size: 40mm x 40mm Weight: 8g
Hi all, I was finally able to isolate the audio in my aerobatic tricopter video and get the speeds with my Doppler program. With that, at this point, I have the worlds fastest tricopter until others start clocking theirs, posting their findings, and are faster than mine. Nice to hold a world record... even if it's only temporary.. Ha ha! The fastest pass was 78kph, 48mph. All the best!
I know my quad did just on 75 kph on it's maiden flight and a visiting friend left me in the dust with his tri. but we never clocked him by GPS. I'm sure it would be a far more accurate speed gauge than any doppler app. Is 48mph fast for a tri. I would have thought a well set up machine would be faster. I've never even seen one live, perhaps I should give the quads a miss for a while. Actually I have 3 NTMs I carry as spares and plenty of ESCs. Give me some data on your setup and I'll give one a go next payday. Maybe we can get a legit speed record just for hobbyking members. I'll ask Anthony if he will put up a prize. Should be fun. If we use all HK products no one will hold any advantages. Interested in a challenge? If so we'll need rules like no rewound motors or specially flashed ESCs, strictly as bought. Anyone else interested?. I just had a quick read and some are saying tris don't use a flight control board. I'm sure I didn't misread it. Why are they marked as an option in every board I've used? Are they harder to fly than a quad? I am serious about this. I reckon it would be fun and keep me occupied. I need a new challenge. If you give the nod I'll start the ball rolling but we will have to discuss rules etc, off the forum. Maybe you can make a competition video to launch it.
Well that messed that up. HK only sell one Tri, the Scorpion. I'm not sure Anthony would be as interested if it wasn't all HK gear. Unless you want to buy a new frame. It would certainly narrow the field but it would level it somewhat. I'm still willing. I slap you with my glove, take that, Scorpions at 50 paces.
Actually I looked at the wrong section. There are other tricopters but they are backordered. Shame. Never mind you were probably the wrong person to ask.
Hi, I'm doing my first and my i86L cuadracopter I find a very curious thing, reset the board and adjusted the esc's when I put the gas engines are zero gas tapping and latching on like they are doing a test. this is normal? took four ubec 20a esc HK.
one ayudita.PLs.
Thank you.
Hi I am currently making a x configuration quad copter using this control board and I am using 4 plush 18A Esc but while hooking everything up, I realized my Plush 18A ESC's have a 5v BEC on them so 4 of them together all connected to my quad-copter control board would be about 20V and after reading the specs on this control board I see that it can only handle 4V-6V so would I over load and fry my board?? Or is it okay to connect all 4 BEC's as the board has a resistor or something? Also from reading below I see that someone said to remove the red wire from 3 of the BEC's but if I was to do so is their any particular ones I should remove or leave on? This is my first quad and I was wondering if anyone could answer these questions for me or give me some advice. Thanks!!
Asher, you will still only be getting 5v. But it is much safer to disconnect the red center wire from the servo lead and tape it off on all but one ESC. This can cause your ESCs to fail and potentially burn one of them out. Something you don't want to happen on a multirotor. Hope this helps and happy flying!
So from what I understand from your reply is I should definitely remove the red wire off all of the other 3 esc's but one to prevent shorting out and burning out the esc's from having them all connected? Just wanted to reconfirm and thanks for your input, much appreciated!
Yes that is correct. Lift the little tab in the middle, and pull out the center connector and tape it off. I know some people that crashed their quads because of a motor dropping out and they both had the same thing in common. All power wires connected in their ESCs. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Hooking up 100 red wires wouldn't make any difference. you would still be getting 5 volts. If you are concerned and I see no reason to be with this board or the KK2 board. Many boards operate with the power connected to all center pins. There is nothing in the manual regarding disconnecting them and I have left mine connected with no problems. But what you weren't told was that on any board needing 5volts disconnected M1 MUST have power to it. In my opinion you could end up with major problems by "taping" up stray wires carrying 5 volts. Tape has a nasty habit of becoming untaped after time and loose wiring will most certainly cause burnt out boards, ESCs etc. At least cover them in correctly sized heatshrink or cut the wires completely. Simply wrapping a piece of insulation tape around such this wiring is asking for trouble. The KK2 manual actually states it's OK to leave the wired and this one makes no mention whatever of disconnecting any wires. In fact it tell you to connect them all. So far I have 2 KK2s I of these and 2 kk 5.5s and all cables are connected. As for any other boards you will have to refer to the manuals.
myhis, Either plug it into M4 or M5 depending on how you have your servo mounted. If you spin your tri clockwise, it should try to counteract that by tilting left to make it spin counterclockwise. These little boards are quite aggressive and well suited for a smaller aerobatic tricopter or one with long arms to stabilize it. I use it for my aerobatic tricopter and it works great!
The led light on my brand new i86 lite only turned on once and now i cant get it to turn on at all. I am assuming that I have fried the board but i don't understand why and I would like to understand why before I buy another board and do the exact same thing again...
here are some facts:
-all leads have the yellow wire going toward the inside of the board
-power is being supplied by a castle 4.8v-9v though a devo rx701 (could the castle have fried it?)
-the green light is on, on the castle
any help at all would be really appreciated!
Michael, this board needs either power from the ESC's onboard BEC (5v) or an external BEC (5V). If you use an ESC, only use one power lead to service the board, RX, and servo. Carefully remove the center red wire from the other two ESCs by lifting the tab and pulling the lead out. Tape it off with masking tape or something. If you have confliting voltages, you could fry not only the ESCs but potentially the controller too. Also, make sure your ESCs are still functioning. If you didn't remove the center wire, they may be fried by your 4.8v-9v power supply. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
There's that masking tape or something. A valid tip Michael. Do not use masking, insulation, packing tape on any electrical fittings. Over time it will unwrap especially on thin wires as the sticky component of the tape deteriorates, especially in positions subject to sunshine. Always use heatshrink to stop any power wire from causing damage to expensive components. It's not being anal, it's common sense. One day that tape will lose it's grip and flick, something will go splat. You will never see any pro aircraft with tape insulating important (read powered) wires. No doubt there are some people who say they have used it for years with no problems. I guarantee there are many who have been very sorry after using it. Either remove the wire at the source or use heatshrink. A handy tip, should you have to isolate a live wire cut the wire the holding the wire away from the cut tightly squeeze the wire and keep squeezing as you pull the out insulation over the end of the bare wire, then tidy it up with heatshrink. You'll never have any shocking moments after that.
the motors keep going on after i turn of the transmitter on full throttle? any one with the same problem? so if i fly it and i loose my range it will never stop?? lol
Don't know man
its like it will go on flying like a balloon and finally when the battery dies it falls from the sky and breaks expensive gear!
LOL!
ANY ONE WITH A SOLUTION PLS COMMENT!
Not so! I have tested 2 tx and 3 rx that do have failsafe. They work perfectly. But when linked thru the flight board, the esc's ignore the input on signal loss. The same esc's that shut down on signal loss when connected directly to the rx do not shut down when connected to the flight board. It is the i86L at fault here. So I retired my i86L and i86. I use my old FF rabbit board and everything works. I tried the FS-TH9X and my Futaba T6XA. Same thing. Go figger....
Hello guys, does anyone in here have any experience using this board with walkera rx-2801pro receiver? I cannot manage to make it fly. I followed the manual with the wiring like this
BOARD ****- RECEIVER
RUDDER - RUDDER
THROTTLE - THROTTLE
ELEVATOR - ELEVATOR
AILERON - AILERON
The centering of stick does works (at least is what I think so) the blue led stay on and the red stay off
When I start the throttle calibration all the for motors start to spin at low RPM (it can't lift)
I have had this board for a week of so now and am struggling to get it to calibrate all the ESCS. I have been following the instructions to the dot and this seems to be the main issue I can't get past. Does any one else have this problem or maybe have some insight on how to get past this?
Hi, just got this board and put on my tricopter (previously flying with another board). But I could not get the motors turn. What happens is: I switch the tx on, then connect the copter battery, the blue led on the board switches on, then the escs begin to beep fast and the motors won't turn. I tried to do the stick centering and the escs calibration, tried to arm the board using the elevator stick, but... nothing. Only the tail servo works perfectly. Any help? Thanks!
Hi, I am working on my first quad and need a simple question answered. When I connect the ESCs to this board, do I have to disconnect the red wire on three of them (Turnigy TY-P1 25Amp HEXFET Brushless Speed Controllers)?
yes just leave one with the red wire. If you leave all just the way they are you will just have more amps to the board and may fry it! so just have one connected and the rest disconnected! :)
I would like to use this board as a plane controller. Does anybody have some experience of uploading the firmware of version 1 so that I should be able to select the "Aerocopter" mode? Where to find this firmware?
SwissTechi, To my knowledge, this board does not have the aeroplane mode and I'm not sure if this one can be flashed for that. The standard i86 can be set to aeroplane mode and doesn't need to be flashed. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Please explain to me what exactly the gain pots do.What's the difference between pot to 0%, 50% and 100% What I'm exactly modifying with this pots? Is it more stable if I increase them or vice-versa? My quad has 850g X config. and 50cm from side to side.
As I understand it the higher the % of gain for the respective gyro the more sensitive the response of the motors will be. Usually starting at 50% is standard with very small corrections. Hope that helps.
too much gain to the pots make flying twitchy. too little gain can make one side of your quad flip over. fly it low like 3 feet and move the controls. if you can't get it off the ground or it keeps wanting to tip over, increase the gains a little bit. too responsive drop back on the gains. try to achieve stable flying by adjusting the gains a little at a time.
jsrock3,
thank you. let me know how your copter is working for you. you have to tinker with it sometimes which is the price you pay for the board costing less. if you can get how this works, you'll be able to program other boards like the Multiwii. that board drives me nuts!
Catalin-Nicolae, it's always good to start at 50% on the pots. Because you are using the X quad config, you can set the yaw up to 90-95% with no worries. On the pitch and roll, if the quad has quick oscillations, back of the gains incrementally until the oscillations stop. If the quad drifts severely, and is hard to hover, crank up the gyros until you get tiny oscillations then back of until they stop. This will give you optimal flight characteristics from this board. BTW, this board (i86L) is more suited for aerobatics and the regular i86 is much more stable.
No reason why you can't. It will keep things level but won't stop the plane by being blown and moved by the wind. Just plug in your Aileron, elevator, throttle and rudder
Actually this has the I86pa Atmel chip in it. I mistakenly thought it was an I86ap which has been very successfully used in all sorts of fixed wing aircraft.
youll only need one of them to power up your whole system, if you connect more than one to your board/rx though, you will just be doubling the amperage of your BEC rating, which will help to power your flight board, rx etc, However You wont need all of them connected unless your system demands a high Amperage.
if your setting up a quad copter, id recommend unplugging the power (red wire) from 2 of your speedies, that way only 2 of them are powering your board and youll have plenty of amperage to provide continuous power to your system to avoid brown-outs etc.
Before someone follows the advice above... check the voltage regulator type in your ESCs! The product page will tell you whether it's *linear* or *switching*. With linear BECs you can connect all four as mentioned above. With switching BECs (more efficient) do not connect more than one to a board, without cutting the red wire, or bad things may happen to the electronics.
Hey guys, ive set one of these up on my x900 tri, everything seems to be working pretty well, ive tuned it up so it flies quite stable, however for some reason when i try and leave it to hover, it oscillates slightly backwards and to the right... does anyone know how to fix this? can i just re-trim my Tx? will that help or is it some sort of weight distribution problem or props even, maybe? please help thanks
Could be a slight imbalance of you lipo battery but also could be the gyro gain needs to be slightly increased. Try the battery adjustment first though, that would be the easy fix.
depending on your frame you could have a motor not mounted square to the frame. This would give you a slight drift. It may be the rear motor since a Y has the yaw and forward/reverse command. It could also be a motor and/or prop that is off balance. If will not trim out its likely the motor/prop.
thanks for the replies guys, ive moved the battery forward and thats helped but it still dips to the right when trying to hover. If i trim it via the tx it does fix it up, but i didnt think gyros require trimming?
hey i just received my I86l control board and im setting it up on my x900 tricopter now.. just plugging the rx and speedies into it atm but ive stumbled across a problem.. none of the pictures detail which pin connection is M1, and so forth... can someone plz help? i need to know which pins are what, cheers
Goldsworthy, Not even close, unless you intend to do aerobatics. Apples and Oranges. This is a great board for aerobatics but the Naza is FANTASTIC for stability. I love this board for my little wooden tricopter. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
It's pretty good for micro and mini sized quads. You will not see any stability problems with small flyes. For bigger quads kk2 is much preferrable. Hope that helps.
It features only 3 axis gyros. Maximum it will help you to level your copter automatically. But board will not notice if it will be moving, so it can't resist wind or inertial power.
KK2.0 has accelerometer in addition to gyros. It will help you fight wind and once you release joystick it will try stop and cut the momentum. Fine tuned KK2.0 does it really well.
But the biggest minus of both boards is complete absence of extensions. You can't connect GPS or telemetry or flash memory or barometer ot anything else...
Valerij.
What control board would you recommend then?
I bought the X666 frame.
I would like to have the maximum possible stability (beginner)
but I'll be happy if I could later insert telemetry and other
Catalin-Nicolae, This is a better board in some respects but not as good in others. It's better in that it is much easier to setup and get flying. But worse with it's limited configurations because there are so many configurations the V2.1 can be set up as. I like these over the regular i86 because they are more responsive for aerobatics. If you are looking for more stability, I would recommend getting the i86. Both great boards but this one is more suited for flips, rolls, and fun flying. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
Can someone please tell me how to do step 1 (stick centering) and step 2 (ESC cal)? Perhaps this is detailed in the manual but that is no longer on-line.
Since the manual is no longer on-line I am not sure about the ESC calibration process. I've plugged in each ESC (one at a time) into it's corresponding motor plug on the FC board, then pwr-up FC while TX on with Throttle=Max. I see RED LED ON. Then I move throttle to MIN and LED goes Blue, then OFF. I repeat for each ESC, then reconnect all 4 ESCs. Upon pwr-up all ESCs still beep. What have I done wrong?
isnt the best board i think but the setup was really easy and the switches are nice to work with!
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Overall Rating
barfy
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A great board. It seems the stick scaling is better than on the i86. Small size makes it great for small quads. MEMS gyros are located in the centre of the board, which may count for nought, but seems a better approach than having them on an edge. 16MHz clock. I like the stick centring and esc calibration being via the dip switches and very robust if you like crashing often as I do.
Very straight forward and very easy to setup. Make sure you use a PLUSH ESC as Red Brick ESC's does not work with this KK Board.
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Spool
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The PCB is smaller than I thought it would be and also it is very light. This is my first try with comercial multirotors, so my opinion is based only on what I got.
The setup is ridiculous easy, it worked straight out on the first try. It seems to me that it can't handle very well wind gusts and also with little to none throttle, motors spin in different speeds. Maybe this last fault is "normal" or is due to ESC program, I'm not sure.
Anyway, I'm happy flying my first quad, no drama until now. Nice product, excellent value.
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Tryin2fly
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Works Great very easy to set up(DONT OVER THINK IT as I did look in the discussion area lol I should know better) As many have said plug it in and do the 2 steps and your off you just need to fine tune the gains seems very stable too,what else can one say but get one, for the money you cant beat it this would make for a GREAT first Multi for someone just getting into this area of R/C
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