Durafly once again set the standard with this high quality JU-87G Stuka which has enough scale detail and features to keep any warbird enthusiast happy. The 1100mm range offers the RC pilot a practical size model that can be easily transported and uses the ever popular 2200mAh 3s Lipoly pack, yet at the same time, the model is large enough to have presence and is able to tackle most airfields, not to mention a little wind, making it very practical.
As well as looking fantastic, this Stuka is plug and fly, meaning very little assembly work is needed. The powerful outrunner motor, ESC, navigation lights & servos are all pre-installed leaving you to glue on the tailfeathers and some scale detailing, bolt on the plug in wings and go flying!
We have flown this superb Stuka extensively during testing and it will not disappoint, there is plenty of power for those really scale warbird maneuvers and the airframe is viceless with no hint of a tip stall. The pre-installed flap servos have a nice, slow operation to help prevent ballooning and the flaps themselves allow the approach speed to get down to a crawl without a hint of wingrock. There is no doubt, this is one fantastic looking warbird and it flies as easily as a low wing trainer!
Features: Ultra Scale Detail High Quality Construction & Finish Plug & Fly, simply add RX and Lipoly (not included) and fly! Optional 37mm Cannon Pod's, simply slide on Robust Undercarriage that can handle almost any strip Tough EPO Foam Construction Flaps fitted AS STANDARD with slow operation servos for realism and to prevent ballooning Pre-Installed Navigation Lights Easy and Fast Construction
just got mine. Is there a trick to remove the canopy?
Tried to tear off, but canopy is stuck. Does trying
harder damage the fuselage? Unfortunately do not know
the mechanism inside the fuselage if there is one...
Thanks for help.
Hi Udo. There are two plastic lugs directly below the rear gunner. In fact, the lugs are in line with his back and point down into the fuselage. The lugs snap into 2 receivers inside the fus. Just lift it from the back and the lugs pop out of the holders. It is a very good fit. I put clear tape on the back of my canopy once I got it out. Now I can pop it off without damaging the unit. Hope this helps. Be brave. It will pop off.
Hi John, thanks a lot for your help, much appreciated. As you described, perfect solution for a canopy mounting. Overall the aircraft is very well designed. Let's see how it will fly next week. Looking forward. Thanks again, best regards, Udo
Hello everyone! on the flaps, they use when is it? take off, landing? before or after? someone has a video on this? I never used the flaps before and this is my first warbird! Thank you for your comments!
Hey Yanik. The usual method is small amount of flap for take-off and full flap deployment for landing. If you have a 3 position switch on your transmitter then you are good to go with this setup. I like 15 degrees for partial flap (take off) and as much as I can get for full flap. Remember that each model is different though. Some need very little or no flap. Hope this helps.
HobbyKing sells an excellent 6 channel radio, Here is the part number.HK-T6A-M2 It only costs 25 bucks and it comes with a receiver. Unfortunately if you buy it from the international warehouse, it will cost you as much to ship it as the radio costs, but it is worth it. I like this one better than the 6 channel they sell in the U.S. warehouse, with that one the servo reversing has to be done with a computer.
It is my opinion that this is a very ugly plane. Stuka's themselves don't look that bad, but this paint scheme looks like a 6 year old painted it. Hey HobbyKing, why don't you offer this in another color scheme?
Not arguing with you, but with some Acetone you can take off the paint quite easily without damaging the foam. I then use Denatured alcohol to take off any remaining residue. You can leave it white for eastern front or paint it. I have repainted two of these.
Model Master military paints and Rustoleum white primer. Neither one effects the foam, but be careful as some raddle can paints can effect it. I used an airbush with the model masters mixed 30% with thinner and 20psi. The primer was raddle can spray and didn't do anything bad. Other colors in the same brand did bubble the foam a little. So be careful
Ok! Its my first war bird and i would like to know what means the d/r???, expo??? and w/o flaps??? I learn a lot with the bixler and now i fell ready for this!!! Thanks a lot for the awnser and sorry for my English!!! From a french guy of Qué**bec!!
d/r = Dual Rate. Most mid and high end radios have this feature. On a programmable radio you can set it for a percentage of motion, so if the switch applies to elevator and you set it for 50%, that means when you turn it on, the elevator will only move 50% range of motion with the stick movement.
expo = exponentials. This is available on computer radios. You can change the linear curve of the range of motion. Meaning you set how much the control surface moves. As you move the stick to the endpoint, the control surface moves faster at an "exponential" rate. This makes the controls less "touchy".
i cant find them,control rod and the small part that screws onto the metal rod that goes to the servo. They are made out of the plastic and the little tip that is suppose to snap onto the horn has
a habit of bending. also need extra screws. any help please. Thank you. :-)
Can the ESC in this plane be programed. when I flew mine the other day it was so slow I thought it was going to fall out of the sky. it was to slow really. is there a timing or something that can be checked or is this motor just bad from the start? thanks for any input anyone can give on this ESC or motor.
If your that worried about bent wing tips you could always get one from your local HobbyKing warehouse,i got one from my local warehouse and my wing tips were fine,but having said that my mate got one from the Hong Kong warehouse and his was fine too,i'd say it's down to how badly the postal company could be handling the boxes.
piss me off i get my box in the mail looks good then i take out the plane box and theres a hole in the bottom right through and they taped it up and sent it like that. BULL**** its broke the tip othe wing of fnot happy.So now i went to support thingy and no answer.what to do
Use the support section. Be persistent, get pictures, of the box all angles of the plane plane with the damage clearly indicated. I've had a lot of unresolved issue with HK and gave up. Occasionally customer services have come through. But be constructive & clear in your emails. Don't rant it gets you know where.
Hey guys! I was wondering if you can take off with flaps?ANd also iv been haveing trouble takeing off,When i start to take off from the ground the plane just wants to lean all the way too the left like a half barrell roll and i crash and im not giveing any aileron or rudder.
check that both ailerons are Paralell to the BOTTOM of the wing. I even tilted mine about 1 degree down to help prevent tip stall. Flaps are not needed for take -off but make sure as with all light foamies that you are directly into the wind! GOOD FLYIN!
hey everyone, the description says this plane is as easy as a low wing trainer, how easy is it, i have extensive experience flying warbirds on a sim and fly a micro corsair and PZ radian, would this plane work as a first decent sized warbird?
no recibi mi pedido . vino a mi pais y por falta de datos me lo enviaron a china y ahora me quieren cobrar 97 dolares para volver a enviarlo..una falta de respeto .ya que le he comprado 13 veces y tienen bien claro mi informacion..muy mal de parte de ustedes hobby king tendrian que hacerse cargo de la mitad al menos...que mal se portaron..el avion sale 125 dolares y me quieren cobrar 97 para enviarmelo..estan locos!!!!
Does anybody know when this great looking plane will be available in the USA warehouse?
I'm holding off on buying another Durafly model until we get the Stuka in the US.
"Proud owner of the Durafly P-47 1100mm, HK450 PRO,and four other fully Turnigy equipped homebuilt aircraft"
Here's a couple tips when setting up your Stuka - 1). At mid-stick align the flaps and ailerons with the small step wing next to the fuselage. This is a good starting point for neutral. 2). Start with a D/R of 80% and Expo at 20%. It is predictable and no unusual tendencies. 3). The rudder will probably have to be moved to 100% D/R to get it to turn on the ground in a decent radius. I maidened mine tonight and after flight trimming I was REALLY pleased. It flew nicely and full speed low passes look really good. Low speed flights w/o flaps are possible and the plane flies well at 1/2 throttle. Low speed stability is fine and it will glide with no power for a while. You can also land this plane w/o flaps. Overall I give the Durafly Stuka a 5.
I don't know that inboard flap on mine sticks up on the trailing edge a bit. Studying pictures and videos of the full size aircraft I set them up paralell to the bottom of the wing. It looks confusing with the lagged back control surfaces and the camber of the wing!
Ok! Its my first war bird and i would like to know what means the d/r???, expo??? and w/o flaps???
I learn a lot with the bixler and now i fell ready for this!!! Thanks a lot for the awnser and sorry for my English!!! From a french guy of Qué*bec!!
I put this together in about an hour today, and it went together quite well. A few minor rough edges here and there (and a slightly bent wing tip due to shipping, but hot water fixed that). Overall, definitely good value for money, and looks great. I found myself making Stuka dive bombing sounds as I was swooping it around the loungeroom.
The control horns were a little tricky to get screwed right, all the wing wiring (7 leads!) under the canopy is a tight squeeze, but I'll wrap that in a large heat shrink tube later. The wires are well labeled though. The tail wheel and rudder connection is quirky, quite a pain to align the two neatly even though they're on the same pushrod. A few other things such as gunpods and the undercarriage weren't aligned symmetrically, but a little work fixes that and it's not noticable from a few paces.
All in all, I'm very happy with this. 4 crowns for quality due to a few things that need to be tweaked, but I'm sure that'll be fixed in later runs as they sort this out.
I'll take it for a flight test as soon as the rain lets up.
This is a VERY nice bird and glad I added it to my collection. The photos don't do this paint scheme justice. Very nice looking. My wife even noticed I added a new plane to the hangar.
Both wingtips were bent in shipping (HK, wrap in foam please). Everything else was nicely packed, to include extra hinges, horns, and screws.
The plane went together in under an hour. The ESC was installed but was unplugged from the motor, and ended up being dead (motor would jerk back and forth), but I had a spare.
The component area is very tight and doesn't leave much room for the birds nest of wires under the canopy. The battery compartment is a perfect fit for a 2200mah Turnigy 25C 3S, so don't plan on getting a larger battery, it won't fit, and there's no way to modify without jeopardizing the plane integrity.
Before gluing the elevator on, you will need to hook up your electronics and set your rudder and tailwheel alignment, because they share a common pushrod. With the elevator glued on, you can't access the set screw on the tail wheel. If you have one that fits, replace the phillips set screw with an allen head screw.
landing gear is VERY durable and appears it will handle novice landings well.
Elevator/Ailerson tuning is a bit difficult, because of the plane design. It's hard to set initially, because there are no accurate reference points on the wing as a guide for midpoint.
Unlike most of the other Durafly kits I have, the aileron and flap pushrods wer
5 comments. Reply..
Unlike most of the other Durafly kits I have, the aileron and flap pushrods were finally cut the right length.
Check all of your hinges, one of my flap and aileron hinges were not glued on well.
The cowl is held on with two pieces of double sided tape, and I replaced that with rare earth magnets ordered from HK. The motor has a lot of power, and believe it will be a fast bird.
Elevator movemement was minimal, so I had to set it up on the inside horn holes.
Flight test very soon and I'll report.
1 comment. Reply..
Arrived last week, packaging is marginal for the wings, the tips are very close to the top outer edges of the polystyrene box. Had some small damage due to this, but very minor. Built in an evening, quite easy, just be aware of the fact that you can not access the lock-screw on the rudder/tailwheel once the horizontal stabiliser is fitted. Flies well!! Quite fast and I think the flaps are a must ( for me at least ) to get the speed down for landing. Handled soccer pitch length grass witout nose-over. Unfortunately broke propellor on second flight.....now waiting for Hobbyking to stock!!! Would have paid extra to have spare propellors included in original kit!! Nice model, glad I purchased it, can't wait for replacement props so I can fly again!!
Arrived and same as other reviews the wing tips were a little bent. Assembled easily all servos were correctly aligned. As previously stated only enough room for the 2200 lipo. Looks fantastic very scale except pilot and crew figures a bit simple. Overall cant wait to fly. Well done HK (wheres the ME 110 and JU88 ?)