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RC Sailboat-Monsoon A beautifully crafted R/C sailboat, fully built and ready to run. All required items are installed, including mainsail winch, steering servo and all rigging, sail and hardware. All you need to do is add your own receiver and battery! Boat hull is based entirely on an ocean going racing yacht and moulded in fibreglass with a perfect gelcoat and enamel painted finish. Dont be mistaken in thinking these boats are slow and boaring. In a stiff breeze they can be extremely quick and perform turns rapidly, proving to be very exciting.
This kit comes pre-fabricated and all you need to do is connect the sail and include your own receiver!
The large servo winch and steering are already set up and ready to go!
Spec.
Length : 900mm
Height : 1800mm
Weight : 2.5kg
Area of Sails : 0.38m2
Ballast weight: 1.3kg
Required. Radio System (2ch) Receiver battery.
Note: Please ensure you fill the keel ballast to 1.2kg or heavier. Lead shot, bearings or bolts/nuts will be sufficient. Keeping them in place with epoxy.
Hi guys. Turnigy LSD 4.8V 2300mAh Ni-MH Receiver Pack.if i was to use this receiver pack in this Boat what sort of Sailing times could i expect to get IE all day or just one or two hours.thanks.
Hobbyking should sele all sailboat with Radio System (2ch), Receiver battery included. It would be easy for everyone. They would sell faster!!! Without customers doubt.
Those of us with significant experience in the R/C world don't want every item with it's own radio. I would have 11 transmitters now for my 7 airplanes and 4 boats. No thank you, I much prefer 1 or 2 transmitters that control all of my r/c planes and boats.
Kenneth, There is a very good after market Sail Maker in Washington State USA Rod Carr Sails. he has been building RC Sailboat sails for 20 years he has the correct sizes etc. a suit of high quality Sails for this boat are $120.00 USD just Google Rod Carr RC Sails. I have used his sails on several boats & I am Very happy with them. they make a HUGE difference in the Boats Preformance
FYI, you CANNOT get enough nuts/bolts into the keel ballast to get anywhere close to 1.2kg. That is TOTAL nonsense.
I went out and got BBs and filled the keel ballast and it wasn't even 1.2kg.
I just tried filling it with FINE STEEL SHOT and it only weighs 1.0 kg.
Now I guess I'm going to call a gun shop to see if they carry fine lead shot. This is SERIOUSLY a pain in the ass.
What have others done?
Buying fine lead shot from your local gun supply or hunting store will be your best option. #5 lead shot seems to work well and will get you to the target weight along with impregnating the lead shot with 2 part epoxy to hold it all in place and seal up the keel.
I ended up buying a 25lb bag of #8 lead shot. That's all the gun shop next to me had. It worked out fine. 1200 grams of lead shot filled the ballast about 80% full. 25lbs was the smallest quantity I could buy. It was $45. I guess I'll just go dump the excess in a playground or sewer grate.
Another source for fine lead shot is any scuba or sports store. The soft weights for diving are nice soft lead. and usually cheaper than the gun store too.
I bought a 48oz bag of lead split shot from a very popular online auction site. I had to trim it to tiny pieces but got 47.5oz of lead in the keel then poured in liquid crazy glue and then sealed the top with epoxy. Although, I had no room to spare.
measure out 1.2 kelos of lead put keel into a large bucket of ice and water Melt lead and pour into iced keel while it is in the iced bucket Practice on something first 32 degree water will cool the lead very fast I read this in model boat mag in the 40s
Agreed. No kidding about the EXPLOSION part either. That post should be removed for safety reasons. Under no circumstance should molten lead be near any amount of water, that is if you value your face anyway.
You can however use automotive bondo to make a mold to cast your weight, plaster works good too...but you MUST bake it for several hours at least, at a low temp to make sure it's absolutely dry. Any moisture still in it and you could find yourself with molten lead and plaster embedded in your face.
Really an explosion from lead hitting water? I think that's a bit of an overreaction due to misunderstanding of the danger invovled. While water under the lead or in the molten lead has a good chance of making for a trip to the ER, I've never had a problem quenching lead in water (other than watching out for hot steam). What you definitly do not want is to drop lead with water on it into molten lead, that WILL result in hot lead being expelled. So, a more accurate statement would be "Water should never be in the presence of molten lead because if the water gets UNDER the molten lead, the lead is likely to be expelled violently." If there is water in the mold when you pour, you will likely be severely hurt. Why is this important? Because there will always be water around lead when you are pouring, especially if it's hot, your own sweat. If you let a drop of sweat drop into the mold before pouring the lead, the same nasty explosion could occur. If you want to be safe as safe can be, you should NEVER USE LEAD. Use bisthmuth.
Ricardo, people might think that's far fetched about the little drop of sweat, I mean after all how much harm can a little drop of sweat do?? LOL, ask the guy that stuck his head in the alligators mouth (as if that wasn't dangerous enough) and then you would not guess what happened, ok so you saw it on tv too!! Yes, the guy was sweating and 1 little (baby drop) of sweat fell from his head and hit the alligators mouth, well the rest of you who never saw this video can use your imagination as to what might of happened when the little drop hit the gator's mouth...:(
Ricardo it is NO JOKE, melted lead is about 700 degrees F, if it hits water the result is an explosion. Well not really an explosion in terms of like dynamite, but, The water boils so fast it shoots everything it touches including liquid lead away from the water underneath it, meaning vertically or sideways. It is incredibly dangerous.
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