HK-450TT PRO V2 Flybarless 3D Torque-Tube Helicopter Kit (Align T-Rex Compat.)
Our most popular HK450PRO helicopter kit now offered in a flybarless torque tube version!
HK-450TT PRO V2 Flybarless CCPM 3D Electric Helicopter Kit (Align T-rex Compatible). Modeled on the famous and proven Align T-Rex 450PRO V2 Flybarless helicopter kit. Take a close look at the head and tail of this awesome machine. It's ultra light, yet rigid design is strong enough for even the most skitzophrenic of 3D helicopter pilots!
When comparing helicopters, carefully look at the tail and head unit. Our 450PRO V2 Flybarless is FULLY 'PRO' and does not use parts from previous models.
*Now featuring an upgraded metal tail slider and tail slider control arm!
Features: • Newly designed low wind resistance flybarless rotor head assembly with reduced distance between rotor head and frame, effectively lowering the CG for better 3D performance. • Single piece integrated design of main bearing block and servo mount. • Single piece integrated design of anti-rotation guide and gyro mount. • Single piece integrated landing gear. • High precision flybarless head system. • Newly designed high resolution swashplate. • Single piece battery mount with integrated canopy mount designed to bring CG closer to disk plane. • Highly rigid frame with single piece carbon side and bottom plates. • Highly efficient shaft driven tail design. • Weighted tail rotor blade grips to repel centripetal forces. • Straight-up in-frame alloy rudder servo mount for improved geometry and better CG. • Newly designed aerodynamic canopy. • Newly designed high strength main blade grips. • Upgraded metal tail slider and tail slider control arm.
Servo push rod length- what lengh should the push rods from the servo arm to the swashplate be?
it looks like it should be about 38-40MM "outside" measurements with plastic ball joint. If anyone has the exact # I would appreciate it. Center to center may be the most exact I assume. I imagine with all the different servos you just have to center for yourself?? Using spektrum DS3020 servos
Is anyone else having problems with their canopy touching the large pinion wheel? What can be done to fix this? Reshape or mod canopy? Is the pinion larger than its supposed to be? I like the look of the canopy but it doesn't fit correctly. I have an old canopy from a gsun model that appears to flare out more in that area. Any suggestions? Overall I'm impressed with the quality of this clone compared to others I've had.
I had that problem too and what I did was take a wine bottle cork, cut it to a beam of suitable height and width and superglue it to the CF fuselage. It guarantees that the canopy cannot touch the gear or servo arms and adds practically no weight to the heli. HTH
Thanks. That is a good idea. I had to do something similar with my EC 135 he's a lodge but I use dense foam blocks instead. The only thing is you should not have to do that on this type of canopy.the product description boasts a newly designed streamlined canopy but the streamline design is a little too streamline if you have to pat it with cork or foam.
Well, you're certainly right in that you shouldn't have to do this, but my experience is from a stock A lign 700E complete factory kit, you really would expect it to be good in this sense but it wasn't, go figure...
If I were you I would definitely take apart the critical assemblies (main rotor head and tail mechanism) and put threadlock on every screw. I'm talking from experience with HK250GT, where the swashplate link balls were loose (no threadlock at all), the feathering shaft wasn't fastened well and had too little threadlock, the screws holding the tail rotor grips were loose and had no threadlock. I think you are really brave if you put it together and fly it without checking (and this is not a good type of brave in my opinion, just to be clear :-)
The 929MG is a bit taller than the A lign servos, so if you mount the pitch servo on the outside of the frame (for easier exchange when you crash), then you might have problems getting the canopy on, on that side. I use XGD-11MB on my 450 swash, very cheap (I keep a bunch for spares), metal in the last two gears (so survive crashes a little better) and work generally very well on the swash. Also no problem mounting the canopy with those.
*Herubeto, The canopy that comes with this is very narrow so it's difficult to fit batteries in. Turnigy nano tech 2650s don't fit. Normal Turnigy 2200s do but not much to spare. I just replaced the canopy with a better one (along with many other parts).
Hey, I used an HK450 Pro one (PRODUCT ID: 290000003 ) but my other Align and Tarot Pro v2 canopies fit fine so just find a nice looking fibreglass 450 pro canopy. 2650s will do around 10 minutes if flying circuits etc.
Great, thanks! Thought it best to ask because I bought a fiberglass canopy for my HK250, but it was way too tight (it fitted actually entirely _within_ the original canopy, so no luck getting it on the heli :-).
I'm new in this topic. I saw that some people offer NTM Rotor Drive 450 Series 1700KV / 930W motor with 2200mAh 3s lipo. I'd like to know whether they fit together or not, because, the motor's site says it needs 3s lipo. And i'd like to know how much weight can this helicpoter lift? I'd like to mount a Gopro on it later. (it's about 200g mount)
Asi que yo no entendi la pregunta de Atanasio, gracias Renato por la correccion! Como este heli es "flybarless", no tiene palas estabilizadoras! Atanasio, necesitas un estabilizador de tres direcciones para este heli, como el ZYX-S or algo parecido. Suerte!
Best is Flybarless system... I can recommend you ZYX-S, it's not expensive and works really good :) If you want something professional good option is BeastX or MSHBrain system :D Personally i'm using zyx and it fits perfectly to my conditions.
4stars,sir.Standard part quality medium to low.Beware of main blade,mind broke during the flight,better to buy premium one.Some screws have to re-tight with thread lock glue.Very dangerious flying compare to fixed wing.
Dikybird, These are great choppers if you just double check all screws that go into metal with blue loctite. Spare parts are available on this site, or are interchangeable with Align T-Rex 450 Pro helicopters. If you want something close in size to the Hirobo Shuttle, then I'd suggest looking at the HK550, or the HK600. The 450 is a great park size bird though.
hello everybody, i´*m learning to fly and just have bought this heli, is super stable, i´*m very VERY happy with it, i do really recommendo it to everybody that want to get started!
my electronics are (just in case someone is wondering which ones he sould use)
-3 tower pro servos, 9g ones
-3550 kv motor ((brushless)
-digital 11g servo on the tail
-turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3s
regards!! from spain, ferxu
LasseK , thanks for both of your answers. It would not let me respond to your answers so I had to start another discussion. From what I have seen on the internet the 30 size heli's seem to have about the same dimensions as the 450 size electrics. I would like to try to maximize my flight times if possible.
OK, you can get longer flight times with lower headspeed, I have experimented some with as low as 1000 rpm on my 700E, this gives me 15-18 minutes of hovering time (don't know 3D so no data on that). The blades sound really sweet too at this low speed! Unless you have to lift something heavy or want to do 3D (i.e. just flying around), then you should be able to get longer flight times on a smaller heli as well using lower head speed. Will experiment with my 450 once I have it back together. Cheers!
Well, to quote the wise Master Oogway: "nothing is impossible". I found a clip (search for Fs_NupcyPSU on Youtube) with a 450 clone converted to a .18 Toki car engine, maybe that can give you some idea. I don't think there are any ready-made kits for 450 size heli. HTH
FBL it's just more advanced system, without flybar pads. All what necessary is made by electronic systems :) It's similar to brush and brushless motors - now nobody use brush motors, becouse brushless are more useful, and less emergency needed.
hello, I am sort of a noob when it comes to helis. i have used a simulator and have a coax heli. i am ready to move up to a fixed pitch heli but was wondering what are the pros and cons of a flybarless head? thanks!
Pros are easier mechanical setup (less work), lower drag (i.e. slightly longer flight times), less parts to break when you crash (so a bit cheaper crashes). Cons, you have to have a 3-axis gyro (slightly more expensive to buy). Another pro with the 3-axis gyro is that you can set it up to be really docile (i.e. simulate a heavy flybar) so you get a really steady heli in the beginning. As you might have guessed, I'm a FBL fan (have three FBL helis), just to be clear!
Hello. My suggestion for a *beginner*:
- ZYX-S FBL module.
- Three HK933 servos on the cyclic
- One Power HD 3688HB on the tail
- Motor: Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2215H
- ESC: Turnigy plush45A
- Lipo: Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 25~50C
Today I made my first flight with this helicopter.
I noted that my tail responds too slow to the right command. I can see that the tail blades does not have much pitch at full command, it seems to be a mechanical problem. May be the tail shaft is too short.
Do you have the same problem?
- Motor: Turnigy 450 H2218 Brushless outrunner 3550KV, configured at 74% at middle stick. Approximately 2800 rpm headspeed on hovering.
- ESC: Hobbyking YEP 45A (2~6S) SBEC Brushless Speed Controller.
- Tail Servo: Corona DS329MG Digital Metal Gear Servo 3.8kg / 32g / 0.11s.
- Battery: 2200 mAh, 3S, 25C (Turnigy and Zippy), 35C (Turnigy Nano Tech). All of them respond the same to my problem.
- Tarot ZYX FBL Controller.
Again, it seems that the tail shaft is too short.
I've the same version in Belt-Drive tail and, since the tail shaft is longer, the tail pitch is greater in both sides.
I uploaded a picture in "Files" tab called "slow_yaw".
I appreciate your answer!
Make sure to mount the tail rotor hub as far out on the shaft as it will go (while still fastening it properly). Then google for "grip flip mod", this is a simple mod that makes quite a difference (there is a video that shows how). There is also a mod where you use a Dremel or similar to work on the tail rotor shaft to make it possible to mount the rotor hub a little further out on the shaft (but be careful with this one to not go too far, else hub might not center well on shaft and you get vibration). HTH
I changed my rudder end points to max (makes the servo respond fast ) and adjusted the limits through gyro .All done , no binding plus insane piro . Also there are some tail modding which you can google (for hard core 3d) .
First question : budget wise or performance focus
Do you already have à* tx/rx?
Brushless : Typhon 450h 2215 With pinion (11 or 13 t )
FBL zxy-s. The cheaper
Lipo Turnigy 2200 m 3s 20C the cheaper
Esc : heli esc of 40A or bit above
4 micro or mini servo
I got the 3s 2650mah lipos they are thinner than 2200mha lipos but longer. so yes they do fit but they exceed the length of the battery tray and come up halfway to the servos on the swash. with the original caopy it was a real tight fit.
because the hole are drilled pretty far op forcing the canopy down but it fits.
but if you wanna go for these lipo´*s
i suggest buying a $5 canopy and drilling the holes yourself.
i hope this helps and good luck.
Hey there, i am looking at getting a flybarless and was wondering if it was easier to setup and fly than having a flybar? anyone's opinion to help me decide? also do you need a flybarless control unit to run it or can you use the Flymentor 3D helicopter stabilisation System in its place? or would i have to run both systems in snc in order to have controlled flights?
I would say flybarless is easier to setup (fewer links to adjust) and more efficient (no drag from the flybar paddles, so you get a little longer flytime) and cheaper to repair (fewer parts to break). Flyingwise it depends on how you set the FBL system up, you can have it from very docile (even more stable than a flybarred) to 3D crazy, depending on your taste and skill level. I think you don't need a FBL control unit with the Flymentor, but I would rather invest in a good simulator (fly practice in all forms helps you more in the long run than electronics, just my opinion :-). HTH
This kit is excellent value for money. The new head is smooth and works well. The swash is very good and smooth, The tail has a new type slider on it and mine has no slop, a first on this size of heli, the tail holders seem to have a counter weight system built into them. I am amazed at what you get for the money. The blades that came with mine are good quality and usable.The torque tube seems a good quality unit and the drive is free from friction and hopefully static. All in all I am well pleased with the kit and look forward to getting it in the air.
got this today, it is such a difference to my HK450 V2, looks ace. Te screws are a lot better than on the v2 models. The FBL head looks also better than the one I have for my v2 but I did not fly it yet.
I'd prefer if they would include a glass fibre canopy but will just get one with my next order.
2 comments. Reply..
Finished the kit assembly and have now flown around 15 flights, sport flight and a lot of flips/inverted/rainbows/loose tictocs/punchouts etc
Quality overall is pretty nice and looks great in black, one carbon frame half is rattier than the other (as usual with hk) but the mechanics of the frame, head and most of the tail are really solid. Head is rigid with no slop and feels nice and high quality. The all metal tail slider mech is a nice touch although the one problem I've encountered so far is that the brass tail slide bushing broke in half during the first test hover meaning the tail control arms weren't in contact with the slider anymore. Lost tail control in a low hover because of this so watch out. Never had this problem on other clone 450 tails so hopefully it's just my particular part that was a dud. Other than that the heli is great and flies insane with the following loadout.
Tarot/HK ZYX 3axis flybarless controller
TP 450-Size 2415-06T Brushless Heli Motor 4400kv get this motor it's awesome (13t pinion = insane headspeed power no bogging at all at 12 degs pitch)
Hitec HS-65MG on cyclic (very nice, smooth and powerful although corona 919MGs would work as well for a lot less)
HGD digital 261HB for tail
Hobbywing Platinum/Turnigy K-force 40amp esc
Orange Rx Sattelite
Nanotech 3s 45-90c 2200mah lipos (5mins flight if doing 3d type headloading continuously and everyth
9 comments. Reply..
the quality is amazing. the head has absolutely zero slop in it, is very rigid, and smooth moving. i can tell it will be great for 3D. i still need to check for WARP in the gears but the tail gears came slightly warped, a few teeth are stripped at the root and is not smooth at all. yours may come without it bent like that, but the hk helicopters usually just need align gears and youre good. the TT gears are usually soft and would not recommend flying if they dont seem in perfect shape. to be honest, i did not like the 450 pro i got last year but this one looks like a step up. will be using my zyx and nano techs!
- The carbon fibre frame is a little bit rough on the edges. Need a bit of sanding. Appear not as well made as HK450 V2 frame. - The flybarless head looks very well made. The swashplate is very good, tight tolerance, not as loose as V2 swashplate. - Torque tube tail end is good too. Can't wait to fly it !!